I bought some at Great Waters last night.
One person did not think they were in until Friday, but another server sold them to me. So, they're in.
don
-- Mike Behrendt <MBehrendt(a)mn.rr.com> wrote:
Tickets are not yet available at Hops-Eden Prairie. Bob thinks/hopes
they'll arrive on Friday.
//Mike Behrendt
email - MBehrendt(a)mn.rr.com
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
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Howdy Folks,
Winterfest tickets have arrived! This is the third annual event highlighting Minnesota beer, Minnesota music and hopefully a bunch of fine Minnesota folks. Both of the two prior years have sold out, so you may want to get your tix.
The goods....
Sat. January 17th-(6-9pm)Downtown St. Paul
10-14 Minnesota Breweries and thier beers
Live Jazz
Commemorative Glass
Tons o' Fun
Still just $20
Next....We are now serving our fine Root Beer in Growlers. Inquire about "Prohibition Pride Root Beer" in growlers when you come in. $10 for Root Beer and growler(cool multi color print growler)and $5.00 refills
Last...
Many of you have asked about multiple growlers (of beer or root beer) for holiday parties. We would love to do them for you (they make great additions to any holiday party). If you are looking for several, drop me an email and let me know. We will have them all packaged up and ready for you when you stop in.
Thanks
Mike
OK, we've got the test. Now all we need is to have folks yapping
away on their cel. phones as they fail the test.
Drive Now, Drivel Later
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 14:23:56 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
Subject: Hand-held device detects impaired drivers
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.4i
FYI:
http://www.newscientist.com/news/print.jsp?id=ns99994394
Hand-held device detects impaired drivers
19:00 19 November 03
Exclusive from New Scientist Print Edition. Subscribe and get 4 free issues.
A hand-held device designed to identify drivers impaired by drugs, alcohol or excessive tiredness, is being evaluated by the British police.
The device is intended to deliver a quick yes or no verdict on whether a person is in a fit state to drive and works by assessing the driver's behaviour, rather than testing for particular substances. It is the first of its kind to be tested by police anywhere in the world.
The "impairment detector" is still in the early stages of development, but the Police Scientific Development Branch (PSDB) in St Albans, Hertfordshire, is studying results from a prototype to decide whether to take the project further. If it gets the go-ahead, at least two years of testing will be needed before the detector is ready for the streets.
"Early results are very promising," says Julia Boyle of the University of Surrey in Guildford, UK, who is leading the research on behalf of the PSDB and who revealed the results last week at a conference at Cranfield University.
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Amazing, Every time I read an article, I learn something. Never though about heating the first runnings to counteract the cooling. Can't remember if you add boiling water to reach mashout?
The most important thing to do is to make beer and keep records. Simple things you observe today are quickly forgoton tomorrow. The best thing I observed with my setup is the ratio of grist to water. After tweaking it a bit to compensate for the mass of the cold SS kettle, I add Q1 volume of water at temperature T1 resulting in a mixed mash temperature of T2. I am not trying to get overly scientific. Trial and error helped me adjust the additions and currently, I modify inlet temperature just a few degrees for a few degree swing in mash temp.
Keep brewing, keep it clean, keep good records and push the limits. Remember, at homebrew levels, a bad batch of beer likely costs less than a quarter the cost of a good meal at a nice resturant.
Rick Oftel
Well, nice job from Mr. Computerbrainless here. Sorry.
I wanted to mention:
FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO MAKE ALL-GRAIN, "FROM SCRATCH" KINDS OF BEER!!
Mashing is fun but more complicated than using malt extract to brew beer.
You need a functional mash/lauter set up. Many different configurations work well, including homemade mash tuns and sparging devices. For myself, I mimic Dr. Jim Ellingson's mash-in-a-Coleman cooler set up, with a slotted copper manifold to drain the sweet wort. One modification I've made is wrapping the manifold in a fine-mesh grain bag. Helps with getting clear wort faster and less volume in the vorlauf (recirc.).
I mash for short times if I have a FRESH, well-modified malt. AND, I have well-crushed malt kernels - popped open, mostly intact husks with endosperm exposed nicely and not too much "flour"...thanks to my cool, good ol' hand crank MagMill.
Since I brew ales and no lagers (yet)...I use a single-infusion mash, mix the mash bed, let it rest 5 minutes and check the mash bed temp. in multiple spots...mix a bit more and adjust with hot (pH adjusted) mash water if need be....then let the enzymes do their thing for another 15 minutes. At that time I add my first aliquot of sparge water and begin to collect the cloudy first runnings. These runnings are collected until the wort runs very, very clear; then the runnings are heated to almost boiling and added back SLOWLY to the mash bed. That usually amounts to less than 3/4 gallon of cloudy wort.
Then I start my sparge. I've figured out how much water I need (varies a bit depending on the beer I'm making, amount of grain I've mashed and the target OG) and I add it (at pH 5.3 - 5.5) gently on top of the grain bed. Believe it or not I use a big SS strainer and run the hot sparge water through it. Not fancy but it is gentle and also helps drop the temp. a bit on the hot mash water.
I am a believer in sparging at "cooler" temps. This minimizes tannin extraction. However, you need to keep up the overall pace of the brew day 'cuz you really don't want the mash bed temp. to drop below about 140F, lest you may start to invite nasty spoilage organisms to your mash party.
Also, I cut off my final runnings probably higher than some (many?) brewers. Again to minimize tannin extraction. I give up some maltose this way, but hey it is my beer, right?! :) I oftentimes cut off runnings at about 1.014 or so.... depends on my kettle volume also. So if you were to calc. my %yield and extraction efficiency it is always on the low side.
Water, pH and temperature will affect overall mash quality and extraction efficiency. Lousy tasting brewing water, at a neutral or alkaline pH, will result in a lousy tasting beer. Mashing at too cool of a temperature or way too hot will affect enzyme activity and their interaction with starch and protein molecules.
The happy news is, water is easy to clean up for brewing, pH adjustment is also easy, and thermometers work well for hitting mash temp's.
If anybody wanna get technical about that there mashing thang, read some of Greg Noonan's writings, or start an email exchange with Dr. Michael Lewis (yep, he is wonderful and does reply to most postings he gets). Better yet, talk and brew with people in our club..there are some really great brewers around town!!
I've got more to mention, but am wondering if I've already went tooooo far!
Who wants to brew?? I'm in the mood for brewin'.... :)
Cheers,
Steve Weiland
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
Hi Dave and everyone,
In a nutshell (or a malt kernel)...mashing is easy and wonderful if you are aware of a few things. So far, there have been some great posts concerning mashing and sparging.... and if I may add...
1)>Steve-I copied the barn on this response, hope you don't mind.
>
>If you are using domestic malt, the enzyme content is so high that there
>is no way you will denature them (even at higher temps) before conversion
>takes place. My attenuation has remained the same. There are two parts
>of malt, the starchy endosperm (the beauty as Dr Lewis calls it) and the
>husk (the beast). The less time in contact with the beast, the less
>tannins are extracted. The only difference I have noted (other than the
>beer being better since I started doing this) is you don't get as much
>colored malt flavor/color in the short time, so you have to bump up your
>specialty malts. Call me a heretic, but I've been doing this
>professionally for 4 years now, and I've never had high finishing
>gravities or any other problems associated with the process. In
>addition, I've reduced some astringency due to tannin extraction.
>
>
>On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 07:52:13 -0600 (CST) Steve Fletty <fletty(a)tc.umn.edu>
>writes:
>> Why mash at 160 for every beer? Aren't you going to get a more
>> dextrinous wort
>> in cases where you might want more fermentables and a crisper beer?
>>
>>
>> I've heard about the short conversion time, but have always been too
>> wary to try
>> it. A 15 minute mash is very tempting...
>>
>> > Michael Lewis. I've never heard him say not to sparge. I have
>> heard him
>> > say to sparge cooler at the end of the sparge to keep tannin
>> extraction
>> > low. He also was a bit advocate on mashing hot and short, which I
>> do.
>> > 160F for 15 minutes.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>David Berg
>Head Brewer, Bandana Brewery
>President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild
>
>________________________________________________________________
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
>
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
Steve-I copied the barn on this response, hope you don't mind.
If you are using domestic malt, the enzyme content is so high that there
is no way you will denature them (even at higher temps) before conversion
takes place. My attenuation has remained the same. There are two parts
of malt, the starchy endosperm (the beauty as Dr Lewis calls it) and the
husk (the beast). The less time in contact with the beast, the less
tannins are extracted. The only difference I have noted (other than the
beer being better since I started doing this) is you don't get as much
colored malt flavor/color in the short time, so you have to bump up your
specialty malts. Call me a heretic, but I've been doing this
professionally for 4 years now, and I've never had high finishing
gravities or any other problems associated with the process. In
addition, I've reduced some astringency due to tannin extraction.
On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 07:52:13 -0600 (CST) Steve Fletty <fletty(a)tc.umn.edu>
writes:
> Why mash at 160 for every beer? Aren't you going to get a more
> dextrinous wort
> in cases where you might want more fermentables and a crisper beer?
>
>
> I've heard about the short conversion time, but have always been too
> wary to try
> it. A 15 minute mash is very tempting...
>
> > Michael Lewis. I've never heard him say not to sparge. I have
> heard him
> > say to sparge cooler at the end of the sparge to keep tannin
> extraction
> > low. He also was a bit advocate on mashing hot and short, which I
> do.
> > 160F for 15 minutes.
> >
> >
>
>
>
David Berg
Head Brewer, Bandana Brewery
President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:00:42 -0600 "Steve Fletty" <fletty(a)umn.edu>
writes:
> So if I try this on my dry stout tomorrow, I won't be sorry? ;-) I'd
> probably mess it up somehow.
Well, Dr Lewis always said it takes a real idiot to mess up a mash ;^)
Seriously though, I don't think you would have any problems.
>
> Is the short mash a common beer industry thing?
Common? I doubt it. I know of some others who have tried it and swear
by it. Way back a lot of years ago when I was in school, Grant Johnston
at (crap I forgot the name of the brewery--it's in CA and is owned by
Moylan) used to mash in, have a cup of coffee, and begin his runoff.
Assuming he drinks coffee like most brewers, that had to be about 5
minutes.
David Berg
Head Brewer, Bandana Brewery
President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
I've tried a few and had very similar results to Dave. A little less grain character and color. Plenty of extract weight. Brew day concluded about 30 minutes sooner. Typically, I mash for about 30-45 minutes - due to the lag time of heating a few gallons of sparge water up to boiling.
>>> "Steve Fletty" <fletty(a)umn.edu> 11/20/03 09:00AM >>>
So if I try this on my dry stout tomorrow, I won't be sorry? ;-) I'd
probably mess it up somehow.
Have any homebrewers out there done the 15 minute mash?
Dave-
Is the short mash a common beer industry thing?
----- Original Message -----
From: "David H Berg" <bergbrew(a)JUNO.COM>
To: "Steve Fletty" <fletty(a)tc.umn.edu>
Cc: <mba(a)thebarn.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Thoughts on Sparging.....
> Steve-I copied the barn on this response, hope you don't mind.
>
> If you are using domestic malt, the enzyme content is so high that there
> is no way you will denature them (even at higher temps) before conversion
> takes place. My attenuation has remained the same. There are two parts
> of malt, the starchy endosperm (the beauty as Dr Lewis calls it) and the
> husk (the beast). The less time in contact with the beast, the less
> tannins are extracted. The only difference I have noted (other than the
> beer being better since I started doing this) is you don't get as much
> colored malt flavor/color in the short time, so you have to bump up your
> specialty malts. Call me a heretic, but I've been doing this
> professionally for 4 years now, and I've never had high finishing
> gravities or any other problems associated with the process. In
> addition, I've reduced some astringency due to tannin extraction.
>
>
> On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 07:52:13 -0600 (CST) Steve Fletty <fletty(a)tc.umn.edu>
> writes:
> > Why mash at 160 for every beer? Aren't you going to get a more
> > dextrinous wort
> > in cases where you might want more fermentables and a crisper beer?
> >
> >
> > I've heard about the short conversion time, but have always been too
> > wary to try
> > it. A 15 minute mash is very tempting...
> >
> > > Michael Lewis. I've never heard him say not to sparge. I have
> > heard him
> > > say to sparge cooler at the end of the sparge to keep tannin
> > extraction
> > > low. He also was a bit advocate on mashing hot and short, which I
> > do.
> > > 160F for 15 minutes.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> David Berg
> Head Brewer, Bandana Brewery
> President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
>
>
>
