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by Jim L. Ellingson

Guessing the previous post contained the wrong text... Which wine for holiday? Food-loving Champagne Jon Bonn� Published 3:38 pm, Friday, December 6, 2013 SFGC 12/6/2013 Time for tiny bubbles again. But if you're relegating them to a quick toast at the start of the evening, or a prolonged one at the stroke of midnight, you're doing it all wrong. Champagne makes for one of the most pleasurable wines to drink all evening long, and all through a meal. This isn't new information, but it's too easily forgotten - and especially worth remembering as we enter a season of parallel joy and stress, and endless questions about which wine to serve. So why not go back to an easy answer, one hard for even the most neophobic wine drinker to hate? Bubbles, bubbles and more bubbles. (That's hardly limited to Champagne, by the way. You can find our top domestic recommendations here: http://is.gd/usfizz13. But for the season's sheer festive nature, we'll concern ourselves with the real thing, from France.) Champagne is quite simply the most food-loving wine ever, for a variety of fairly esoteric reasons. The natural carbonation keeps our palates fresh; the acidity works with a wide range of flavors; and the range of textures and weights match everything from the most delicate bit of sashimi to the thickest steak. The sheer diversity of Champagne styles gives you endless options when it comes to food. Reassurance on this front came, for me, in the form of several meals this year, including at London's Kitchen Table and at New York's Contra, where the dizzying progression of complex tasting menus led to a clear choice: one wine, con gaz, to carry us through. Not all Champagnes are created equal, however. The composition of the wine can come from up to three grape varieties - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier- and in a few cases, several more. While their exact roles were once considered evident - Pinot Noir brought precision and structure, Chardonnay offered flesh and richness - those lines are now blurrier. It's quite possible to have a rigid, lean Blanc de Blancs and a flourishy Blanc de Noirs. And, thanks to emergent talents like Jerome Prevost, in the town of Gueux, Pinot Meunier is trading a reputation as an also-ran for a welcome dose of respect. Texture, too, is crucial when considering Champagne on the table. Not just the wine's weight, but also the crafting of its bubbles - which should take a bit more of a backseat when served with refined cooking. The bubbles in sparkling wine should be refreshing, not aggressive. While Champagne has long been seen as offering finer, more persistent fizz than most of its competitors, some producers like Pierre Gimonnet, with his Cuvee Gastronome, and Cedric Bouchard of the Aube region, bottle wines with slightly less pressure and a more supple texture. Sommeliers, including those at the French Laundry, occasionally have decanted Champagne or poured it into wide Burgundy glasses, for similar effect. While that might be extreme, it's a savvy idea with a meal to forgo the usual flutes and drink Champagne from a white wine glass, which will enhance its aromas. There's a more subtle factor: dosage, the final bit of sugar that helps polish a Champagne's flavors and textures. The Champenois fondness for adding a bit more sugar has led to a backlash of sorts and a fondness for extra brut wines - which can be wonderful, especially in the first half of a meal. (And sometimes throughout, in the case of a talent like Emmanuel Brochet, in Villers-Aux-Noeuds, whose wines have a density of flavor that hardly need dosage.) But dosage isn't a simple science. A subtle, well-handled addition not only fades into the wine's innate flavors but helps to amplify them just enough to help richer food shine. A wine like Henriot's Blanc de Blancs, with less than 10 grams per liter of added sugar, can show flesh without losing focus. But the high levels of dosage in most widely produced brut Champagnes make them more a cocktail than a wine for a meal. With all that, how to make bubbles work through an entire evening? Some notes: Starting a meal: It's hard to go much wrong here. Crisper styles, with less of the yeasty presence of aging, are often in order. But especially if you're planning something fresh, with citrus or raw fish, it's a time to let a Pinot-dominant wine, like a Blanc de Noirs, show its particular virtue. Fish and side dishes: A Chardonnay-based wine, especially a lightly dosed or extra brut selection, can work beautifully - its mineral aspects matching the saltiness of good fish. But if you're moving into fattier realms (salmon, halibut, mackerel), there's much to be said for a wine with some Pinot Noir. It's a good moment for a spry, lighter style - unless you've got a lot of butter in your sauce. And why wouldn't you since it's the holidays? Pasta: If you're making it at this time of year, chances are it's luxurious. The more cheese you include, the more you'll want a rich, leesy style of Champagne - perhaps a vintage Champagne from 2002 or 2004 with some extra aging. If there's pork involved, some Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier in the blend (in addition to our recommendations, your retailer should be able to help with the composition of the wine) will be welcome, doubly so in ros� form. Ros� Champagne and true spaghetti carbonara should go down as one of the world's great treats. The main event: That point in the evening when you're beginning to consider red wines - roasts, rich stews and the like - is a time for the howitzers of Champagne. This could be a matter of a full-throttle vintage bottling; it could be a style, like those of Gosset, Bereche or Chartogne-Taillet, that ratchet up both some of the toastier aspects of Champagne and powerful fruit flavors. Better yet: Again, it could be a ros�. In the Champagne realms, ros� has the very opposite effect as with still wine. It is a wine of gravitas and depth, in part because it's often made by adding a touch of still red wine to a pale-colored Champagne. That splash of color - and tannin - grounds the wine and provides the versatility of both a white and a red. By the time you step up to more stalwart ros�s, they easily match the slickness of goose, sweetness of lobster or density of beef: ros�s from grand names like Krug and rarer choices like Vilmart's polished Cuvee Rubis; or exquisite esoterica like the Oeil de Perdrix from the Bouzy based house of Jean Vesselle, which approximates a 19th century approach in its dramatic extraction of flavor from powerful Pinot Noir fruit. Such is Champagne's great gift. Much as it should be enjoyed the rest of the year, now is when its greatest charms pay off. Beyond Champagne While sparkling wine is made all over the world, the French options outside Champagne are often overlooked. Cremant is made in many regions, but those in Burgundy and Alsace often rival Champagne for mineral depth - and outperform on price. NV Piuze Non Dos� Cremant de Bourgogne ($23, 12% alcohol): Chablis maestro Patrick Piuze also works with bubbles, these from a vineyard in northern Chablis - a short hop away from Champagne's southern boundary. An equal mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, without dosage, it's packed with both chalky minerality and a richer hazelnut presence. (Importer: Aliane Wines) NV Meyer-Fonn� Brut Extra Cremant d'Alsace ($24, 12%): This Alsatian house in Katzenthal now has a sparkling entry on its roster, made predominantly from the region's under-loved Pinot Auxerrois planted on well-drained granite soils. There's both welcome astringency, like honeydew rind, and an olive-like richness, something for oysters - baked or fresh. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) 11 Champagnes for a holiday meal NV De Sousa & Fils Cuvee des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs Brut ($90, 12.5% alcohol): Erick de Sousa's wines typify the power of the Cote des Blancs, and this bottling aged in barrel from 50-year-old vines is both muscled and contemplative: kombu, red apple, tangerine cream, and a toasty macadamia aspect, with almost tea-like complexity to the aromas and richness that keeps building as it opens. Disgorged January 2010. (Importer: Charles Neal Selections) NV Varnier Fanniere Cuv�e Jean Fanniere Origine Extra Brut Champagne($65, 12%): Avize-based Fanniere often gets overlooked amid some better-known growers, but the polish in Denis Varnier's Chardonnay-based wines is exquisite. Full of moss and Meyer lemon aromas, and a precision that speaks less to the grape's opulence than its ability to cut glass. Think fatty fish, doubly so in sashimi. Disgorged May 2013. (Importer: Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines) NV Benoit Lahaye Ros� de Maceration Brut Champagne ($50, 12%): Now certified biodynamic, Lahaye shows just how expressive great fruit from Bouzy can be - in his Brut Nature, but also this ros�, on its skins for nearly a day, which explains its vibrant rosy hue, and the intense fruit: currant, a thyme and rye-cracker savoriness. Distinctive, young and fun - just right for lamb. (Importer: Charles Neal Selections) NV Henriot Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne ($60, 12%): This esteemed Reims house is often better known for their straight brut, but their Chardonnay-based effort sourced from throughout the Cote des Blancs and elsewhere matches a fruity apricot and biscuit side to a distinct austerity on the palate. It's serious, lean Chardonnay, able to leap from aperitif to creamy pasta. (Importer: Henriot Inc.) NV Barnaut Ros� Authentique Grand Cru Brut Champagne ($49, 12.5%): Barnaut's ros� is a great demonstration of the power of flavors from the town of Bouzy. The Pinot Noir is strong in this one, which may not suit all tastes but is that elusive steak-wine Champagne. A bit of tannin appears to bolster tangerine, raspberry, fern and deep mineral accents, plus a rich pastry aspect, like a good Linzer torte. (Importer: Vintage '59 Imports) NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Champagne ($85, 12.5%): Ambonnay-based Egly is always about exuberance. The oak impact in this wine, mostly Pinot Noir from three grand cru villages aged for over four years, underscores big, sinewed fruit flavors: deep orange and almost chewy cherry fruit. Bubbles for a grand finale to a meal. Disgorged November 2012. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports) NV Serge Mathieu Tete de Cuvee Select Brut Champagne ($60, 12%): Isabelle Mathieu's family has long worked in Avirey-Lingey, in the Aube - and theirs has rapidly become one of the names drawing attention to this long-dismissed region. This focuses more on Chardonnay, a relative rarity in the Aube, and there's remarkable finesse to the bubbles, and a slight burnished quality of maple syrup and chestnut. The opulence is matched by mineral freshness, sweet pastry notes and an orange-peel and mint leaf liveliness. (Importer: Charles Neal Selections) NV Moutard Pere & Fils Grande Cuvee Brut Champagne ($30, 12%): Moutard remains a fantastic value that shows the potential of the Aube, and no different with this latest - a tangy crabapple side, plus redcurrant, chestnut and a chalky austerity. A great way to start an evening. Disgorged March 2013. (Importer: Grape Expectations) NV Mark Hebrart Cuvee de Reserve Brut Champagne ($44, 12%): Despite being located in the heart of the Marne Valley, Jean-Paul Hebrart often doesn't get his full due. This Pinot-dominant bottle taps some great spots (Mareuil, Bisseuil) and outperforms: cutting, fresh flavors of mandarin and apple skin, and a pastry-like sweetness. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines) NV Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Ros� Brut Champagne ($100, 12%): For a somewhat larger house, L-P takes its pink wine most seriously. There's intense strawberry and nectarine fruit, with a chalky presence - and a deft hand with dosage that leads to precision. (Importer: Laurent-Perrier U.S.) NV A.R. Lenoble Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil Ros� Brut Champagne ($50, 12%): Counterintuitively, a delicate rose to start a meal - mostly Chardonnay (plus still red wine) from two villages known for their nuanced flavors. Delicate wild strawberry and sweet orange flavors, and a mild pastry aspect. Fizz that whispers. (Importer: Atherton Wine Imports) Jon Bonn� is The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. Find more of his coverage atwww.sfgate.com/wine. E-mail: jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com Twitter: @jbonne -- NOTE *** This address is going away. Please use my StThomas Address for now. *** ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

11 years, 11 months

[wine] Champagne for the Holidays:

by Jim L. Ellingson

5 sparkling wines from unexpected places By Dave McIntyre, Published: December 10 Recommendations . . .Exceptional .. .Excellent..Very Good Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be available at additional stores. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Champagne (which I will discuss in next week.s Wine column) may be the ne plus ultra of sparkling wine, but wineries around the world produce delicious fizz in a variety of styles. These are usually made by the .champagne method. of inducing the second (carbonation) fermentation in the bottle, but they achieve their own expressions because of the grape varieties used or the soil and climate where they were grown. Here are five outstanding examples of sparkling wine from unexpected places. Tselepos Amalia Brut . . . Greece, $23 Made from the moschofilero grape, a Greek variety that produces lush and fruity white wines, this delicious sparkler bursts with ripe peach flavors and a lovely floral note that suggests a Mediterranean garden. Alcohol by volume: 12 percent. Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Rodman.s; on the list at Doi Moi, Iron Gate, Kapnos, Kellari, Komi, Mourayo, Zaytinya. Available in Maryland at Asadur.s Market in Rockville, Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria. Steininger Gruner Veltliner Sekt 2010/2011 . . 1 / 2 Austria, $29 If you love gr�ner veltliner, as I do, you will love the addition of bubbles. This is one of Austria.s leading sparkling wines, from an excellent gr�ner grower, so look for the hallmarks of the grape . lemon grass, talc and exotic tropical fruit . plus fizz. Sekt is the German word for sparkling wine. The importer is transitioning from the 2010 to the 2011 vintage. Both are worth trying. (Insider.s tip: Austrian winemakers are excited about the 2011 vintage.) ABV: 13.5 percent. SimonNCellars in the District, Prestige in Maryland, Select in Virginia. Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages. Available in Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, J. Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Twisted Vines Bottleshop in Arlington, Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Wine Cabinet in Reston, Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville; on the list at Brabo in Alexandria, Euro Bistro in Herndon, Inn at Little Washington, Rincome Thai Cuisine in Arlington. Fitz Riesling Sekt Extra Trocken . . Pfalz, Germany, $20 Riesling lovers will appreciate the ripe apricot flavors and nearly imperceptible sweetness of this endearing bubbly. Like the Steininger, this is a nice expression of its grape variety, with bubbles. ABV: 11.5 percent. Country Vintner: Available in the District at DCanter, Rodman.s; on the list at BLT Steak, Blue Duck Tavern, Doi Moi. Available in Maryland at Montgomery County liquor stores in Kensington and Darnestown. Available in Virginia at Grape.+.Bean in Alexandria; on the list at Salamander Resort in Loudoun. Gruet Brut . . New Mexico, $17 This popular sparkling wine from New Mexico, made by a French family from Champagne, is one of the best values in U.S. bubbly. It.s also proof that excellent wine can be made throughout the United States, not just on the West Coast. If you like to serve champagne on a beer budget, this is the bubbly for you. ABV: 12 percent. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Cairo Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, MacArthur Beverages, Paul.s of Chevy Chase, Rodman.s, Whole Foods Market (various locations). Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Georgetown Square Wine & Beer in Bethesda, Pine Orchard Wine in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington, Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church, Total Wine & More (Alexandria, Fairfax, Manassas and McLean), Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Wegmans (all Virginia locations). Paringa Sparkling Shiraz 2009 . . South Australia, $18 Sparkling shiraz is an Aussie oddity and an acquired taste. Better ones, like this example by Paringa, exhibit that sweet, jammy, herbal character of shiraz with an invigorating jolt of fizz. ABV: 13.5 percent. RNDC in the District and Maryland: Available at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Wine Specialist. Available in Maryland at Bin 604 Wine Sellers and Wine Source in Baltimore, Mt. Airy Liquors. Available in Virginia at Norm.s Beer & Wine and Vienna Vintners in Vienna, Oakton Wine Shop, the Vineyard in McLean, Wegmans (Leesburg), Whole Foods Market (Alexandria). More from Food: Wine Best wine books of 2013 -- NOTE *** This address is going away. Please use my StThomas Address for now. *** ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

11 years, 11 months

[wine] Bubbles off the beaten path

by Jim L. Ellingson

Is the Tselepos Amalia Brut in out market? C, J 5 sparkling wines from unexpected places By Dave McIntyre, Published: December 10 Recommendations . . .Exceptional .. .Excellent..Very Good Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be available at additional stores. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Champagne (which I will discuss in next week.s Wine column) may be the ne plus ultra of sparkling wine, but wineries around the world produce delicious fizz in a variety of styles. These are usually made by the .champagne method. of inducing the second (carbonation) fermentation in the bottle, but they achieve their own expressions because of the grape varieties used or the soil and climate where they were grown. Here are five outstanding examples of sparkling wine from unexpected places. Tselepos Amalia Brut . . . Greece, $23 Made from the moschofilero grape, a Greek variety that produces lush and fruity white wines, this delicious sparkler bursts with ripe peach flavors and a lovely floral note that suggests a Mediterranean garden. Alcohol by volume: 12 percent. Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Rodman.s; on the list at Doi Moi, Iron Gate, Kapnos, Kellari, Komi, Mourayo, Zaytinya. Available in Maryland at Asadur.s Market in Rockville, Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria. Steininger Gruner Veltliner Sekt 2010/2011 . . 1 / 2 Austria, $29 If you love gr�ner veltliner, as I do, you will love the addition of bubbles. This is one of Austria.s leading sparkling wines, from an excellent gr�ner grower, so look for the hallmarks of the grape . lemon grass, talc and exotic tropical fruit . plus fizz. Sekt is the German word for sparkling wine. The importer is transitioning from the 2010 to the 2011 vintage. Both are worth trying. (Insider.s tip: Austrian winemakers are excited about the 2011 vintage.) ABV: 13.5 percent. SimonNCellars in the District, Prestige in Maryland, Select in Virginia. Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages. Available in Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, J. Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Twisted Vines Bottleshop in Arlington, Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Wine Cabinet in Reston, Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville; on the list at Brabo in Alexandria, Euro Bistro in Herndon, Inn at Little Washington, Rincome Thai Cuisine in Arlington. Fitz Riesling Sekt Extra Trocken . . Pfalz, Germany, $20 Riesling lovers will appreciate the ripe apricot flavors and nearly imperceptible sweetness of this endearing bubbly. Like the Steininger, this is a nice expression of its grape variety, with bubbles. ABV: 11.5 percent. Country Vintner: Available in the District at DCanter, Rodman.s; on the list at BLT Steak, Blue Duck Tavern, Doi Moi. Available in Maryland at Montgomery County liquor stores in Kensington and Darnestown. Available in Virginia at Grape.+.Bean in Alexandria; on the list at Salamander Resort in Loudoun. Gruet Brut . . New Mexico, $17 This popular sparkling wine from New Mexico, made by a French family from Champagne, is one of the best values in U.S. bubbly. It.s also proof that excellent wine can be made throughout the United States, not just on the West Coast. If you like to serve champagne on a beer budget, this is the bubbly for you. ABV: 12 percent. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Cairo Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, MacArthur Beverages, Paul.s of Chevy Chase, Rodman.s, Whole Foods Market (various locations). Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Georgetown Square Wine & Beer in Bethesda, Pine Orchard Wine in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington, Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church, Total Wine & More (Alexandria, Fairfax, Manassas and McLean), Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Wegmans (all Virginia locations). Paringa Sparkling Shiraz 2009 . . South Australia, $18 Sparkling shiraz is an Aussie oddity and an acquired taste. Better ones, like this example by Paringa, exhibit that sweet, jammy, herbal character of shiraz with an invigorating jolt of fizz. ABV: 13.5 percent. RNDC in the District and Maryland: Available at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Wine Specialist. Available in Maryland at Bin 604 Wine Sellers and Wine Source in Baltimore, Mt. Airy Liquors. Available in Virginia at Norm.s Beer & Wine and Vienna Vintners in Vienna, Oakton Wine Shop, the Vineyard in McLean, Wegmans (Leesburg), Whole Foods Market (Alexandria). More from Food: Wine Best wine books of 2013 -- NOTE *** This address is going away. Please use my StThomas Address for now. *** ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

11 years, 11 months

[wine] Kathy Stock Bennefit

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, Some of you know Curt and Kathy Stock. Fundraiser tomorrow for Kathy - she's battling brain cancer. 5 to 9 at CSPS Hall, 383 W. Michigan (above Glokenspiel). Details at Chip's Chop and Brew Website: http://chopandbrew.com/2013/12/10/kathy-stock-fundraiser-121113-saint-paul-… http://chopandbrew.com/2013/12/10/kathy-stock-fundraiser-121113-saint-paul-… Many nice goodies including wines and Reidel stems from Wine Co. C, J The Wine Three Amazing Selections from the Cellar of The Wine Company These vintages and fine glassware were generously supplied by sales rep Josh Landy: 1. Quinta do Noval Port paired with Riedel Port Glasses! Vintage Port 2000 Score: 96 Release Price of port: $80 Very fine young Port. Fascinating aromas of crushed fruit, tar and wet earth. Turns floral. Full-bodied, medium sweet, with chewy, velvety tannins and a long finish. Grips your mouth. A balanced and caressing Noval. Best after 2012. Only 1,500 cases made. Paired with a set of two Riedel Vinum Port Glasses (retail value of glassware $50). 2. 2003 Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde paired with Riedel Syrah Glasses! A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Northern Rhone, France Retail price of wine: $75 Robert Parker in Wine Advocate, April 2007: .The 2003 Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde is probably the finest cuvee of regular Cote Rotie that Guigal has produced since 1999 or 1991. Stunningly rich, it offers a beautiful, sweet nose of cassis, mocha, espresso, bacon fat, black olives, and underbrush. Some smoked meat notes also make an appearance in this rich, lush, opulent wine. This is a beauty.. Paired with a two pack of Riedel Vinum Syrah Glasses (retail value $50) 3. 2009 Alexander Valley Cyrus paired with Riedel Cabernet Sauvignon Glasses! A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Sonoma, California Retail price of wine: $55 Antonio Galloni in Wine Advocate, April 2013: .The 2009 Cyrus emerges from the glass with fresh, floral aromatics that give the wine an attractive sense of weightlessness for a wine made from Bordeaux varieties. Sweet raspberries, rose petals, spices and new leather flesh out as the wine opens up in the glass, all supported by silky, polished tannins that are rare in Alexander Valley reds. This tasty, polished wine should drink well to age ten, perhaps beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019.. Paired with a 2 pack of Riedel Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon glasses (retail value $50) 2006 Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel Zinfandel from California.s North Coast. Donated by Tim Roets, proprietor of Tim Roets Brewery in Jordan, Minnesota. Prices online run $46. -- NOTE *** This address is going away. Please use my StThomas Address for now. *** ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

11 years, 12 months

[wine] Scotch, Bubbly at Top Valu 1

by Jim L. Ellingson

A couple of north metro events. Larry from the Liq Depot is now at Top Valu 1 4950 Central Ave. NE Columbia Heights, MN 55421-2942 Single Malt Scotch Whisky Scotch Whiskey TopValu Liquor stocks over 250 different single malt scotch whiskies, giving us one of the best single malt selections in the Twin Cities, as well as the greater state of Minnesota. Whether you are looking for your favorite single malt from The Highlands, The Lowlands, Campbeltown, Islay or the other Islands we've got you covered. We even have a great selection Irish Whiskies and Premium Blends. http://www.ci.columbia-heights.mn.us/index.aspx?NID=332 November 6th Single Malt Scotch Tasting Top Valu 1 on Central Ave - 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm Sale on All Single Malts: November 6th - November 23rd December 11th Date Change !! December 4th Champagne/Sparkling & Cordial/Liqueur Tasting Top Valu 1 - 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm Sale on All Champagne & Cordial Tasting Items: December 2nd - December 14th -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years

[wine] Italian Authorities Expand Barolo's Most Famous Vineyard

by Theodore Trampe

The Cannubi designation doesn't mean what it used to. http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/49089?utm_source=SilverpopM…

12 years, 1 month

[wine] SDBs Serious Domestic Bubbles

by Jim L. Ellingson

A serious state for American sparkling wine Jon Bonn� Published 1:45 pm, Friday, October 25, 2013 It's that time of year to start thinking about bubbles, and here's our head start. The state of American sparkling wine continues on the trajectory it has been following: The serious are getting seriouser - while still often remaining an astonishing value - the dry versions are getting drier and more focused, and the sweet wines are getting sweeter and more market-driven. On that last, it was notable this year just how many California efforts have removed the word "brut" from their labels, a term that in the traditional sense indicated a truly dry wine. This might be a matter of simplifying things; for years, the kvetch has been that the term confused consumers. (Honestly?) But in more cases than not, the wines have sweetened as well. Is this the continuation of a trend to make domestic bubbles just a bit sugary without discussing that fact, a sparkling equivalent to California's occasional duplicity in still wines? No one in the wine industry ever went poor by adding a bit of secret sugar, but I'd assert that it doesn't serve the ends of making a serious case for American fizz when wine marketers capitulate to their talk-dry, drink-sweet homilies. If the sweetness question has added a twinge of confusion, it's offset by a very hopeful change: the arrival of disgorgement dates on some American sparkling wines. Some quality-minded Champagne producers have long used these on nonvintage wines, both to help clue in customers on the vintage origins and how long the wine has been aged after disgorgement (the process of finishing a wine's blend and corking the bottle). Despite some industry fretting about whether customers will be confused - are they expiration dates? - these remain invaluable for those who want extra detail about a wine's provenance. More information never hurts. Roederer Estate and its sister winery, Scharffenberger, quietly began printing disgorgements on bottles late last year. As with our Champagne reviews, we'll print the disgorgement information of the bottles we taste when it's available. The Roederer posse deserves a nod for bringing a dab of extra transparency to the wine world. It can only help in our buying decisions, and it's a practice I hope their fellow wineries will adopt. 2004 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Brut Anderson Valley ($47, 12% alcohol): Not to overlook Roederer's nonvintage efforts, but its latest L'Ermitage is gorgeous. About half each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a bit of reserve wine from 2000, it has that seamless quality that also marks Roederer's best Champagnes. Fern, coriander seed and a mandarin orange freshness that matches the apple-skin texture and quince fruit. Its yeastiness is subtle and savory, like good rye bread. Should be even better in a year. Disgorged January 2013. 2009 Schramsberg Brut Ros� North Coast ($43, 13%): Hugh Davies and winemaker Keith Hock found a notable precision in their mix of fruit from across the North Coast, predominantly Pinot Noir with some fermented on skins for color. A riper fruit quality comes out on the finish, and bolsters the fresh mix of rose petal, yeast, apple and white nectarine. It's less creamy than spicy, with aspects of pecan shell and caraway. Schramsberg's NV Mirabelle Brut Ros� North Coast ($27, 12.8%), currently based on the 2010 vintage and sporting a new label, is a creamier, strawberry-flavor effort for the near term, something to put you in a Wimbledon state of mind. NV Scharffenberger Brut Ros� Excellence Mendocino County ($23, 12%): Tex Sawyer uses a nearly equal mix of Pinot and Chardonnay (with 3% still Pinot Noir for color) in a wine that is once again astonishing quality for the money - with a full two years aging on lees. Tight-knit, with great clarity to the flavors: red currant, pink grapefruit, shiso, ripe quince. A quiet marzipan richness is balanced by a dew-drop freshness. There's a subtle tannin from the still Pinot Noir that adds texture to the finish. Disgorged November 2012. 2009 Argyle Knudsen Vineyard Julia Lee's Block Blanc de Blancs Brut Dundee Hills ($50, 12.5%): An all-Chardonnay effort that, while opulent, shows more precision than Argyle often has in recent years. A fine bead and savory aspects of mustard seed and almond add to tangerine and Fuji apple flavors. 2007 Domaine Chandon Vintage Brut Mount Veeder ($45, 12.5%): Chandon's efforts seem sweeter and more soft-edged these10/28/13 A serious state for American sparkling wine- SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/wineselections/article/A-serious-state-for-American-spa… 2/2 days, but their single-appellation bottlings show a particular snapshot of their widespread winemaking efforts. From their Veeder vineyard planting at 1,300 feet, this was aged at least four years, and it shows a dark-mineral power that's typical of mountain Chardonnay (93 percent of the blend) in Napa, plus toast, sorrel, quince and plum skin. NV Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Carneros Sparkling ($22, 12.5): With 8 percent Chardonnay, it's not purely a Blanc de Noirs in the classic sense, but it is a great expression of Pinot Noir from this part of the world, with a touch of rose in for a vague tint. Tangy and full of sweet mandarin orange and raspberry flavors, and a fleshy red apple side. This is about juicy fruit - despite 18 months on lees, the yeast presence is a modest one - plus a peppermint-like nuance. 2004 Iron Horse Brut LD Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($85, 13.5%): Time, plus in this case a low dosage and long stay on the lees, has added finesse to Iron Horse's forthcoming late-disgorged effort. A subtle yeast character to Bosc pear, walnut skin and tangerine. 2009 Woodenhead Naturale Russian River Valley Sparkling ($46, 11.6%): Woodenhead's fizz, curiously based on French Colombard, remains a papery, crisp effort that's the perfect choice for oysters. A mineral kick defines it, with lemon zest, wet stones and thyme accents, and an intense green-apple freshness. Priced ambitiously, given the base material, but a unique Russian River expression. Jon Bonn� is The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. E-mail: jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com Twitter: @jbonne Ads by Yahoo! � 2013 Hearst Communications, Inc. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 1 month

[wine] 20 under 20 for fall

by Jim L. Ellingson

9/26/13 20great wines for fall, all $20or less - SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/thirst/article/20-great-wines-for-fall-all-20-or-less-4… 1/4 20 great wines for fall, all $20 or less Jon Bonn� Updated 9:33 pm, Sunday, September 22, 2013 Fogust is behind us, Karl the Fog is set for vacation, a proper Bay Area summer is under way, and that can only mean it's time for another installment in our value hunt - one tailored to the sunny days on the way in the next month. As always, my scouting task: Find 20 great wines, all $20 or less. As this is our fifth installment of 20-for-$20 (previous selections at: http://is.gd/20for20) this latest class brings us to 100 wines worth keeping an eye out for. The usual caveats: These aren't meant to be bargains. They're not the industrial product of Big Wine. They're interesting, distinctive bottles from around the world that you can put on your table - or, given the return of that yellow orb in the sky, your picnic basket - with pride. That's crucial because, when many people seek out "bargain wines," the bargain they're making is to drink something that's wet and grape-based, and not much more. You deserve better. These are listed without vintage information because, in general, you should be able to buy them reliably across vintages. All the wines were found at Bay Area retail stores, although many domestic wines can be purchased directly from the wineries. If some sound unfamiliar, that's because, to find great value in wine today, you often have to veer from the usual roster of geography - or, as in the case of, say, Soave, turn back to a spot left behind as the whims of wine fashion rolled on. So enjoy this latest crop, and drink well right into fall. Who made the 20? See our picks, Page G8 Sparkling and Ros� Fermi Bohigas Galda Finca Mas Macia Brut Cava ($10, 12%) What: An easygoing cava for Prosecco fans Why: This bottling for K&L Wine Merchants is from Bohigas, which is responsible for some of Spain's best values in cava. It has a bit more user-friendly sweet pear and apricot fruit to balance cava's typical austerity; it also has quality that's hard to find at twice the price. (Importer: Beaune Imports) Heitz Cellar Napa Valley Grignolino Ros� ($19, 13.5%) What: One of Napa's lesser-known classics, pink edition Why: The legendary Joe Heitz inherited the Italian grape Grignolino (presumably Grignolino; midcentury vine mysteries abound in California) when he bought his vineyard in 1961 from Leon Brendel. It's been part of the Heitz story ever since - in both ros� and red form - the sort of joyously refreshing wine that's hard to find in modern Napa. The ros� is better than ever, full of strawberry blossom, mandarin orange, and peach. A quintessence of great Napa ground, with a humble purpose. Gaia 14-18h Peloponnese Ros� ($17, 13%) What: A fashionable pink choice from an improbable spot Why: The uninitiated in Greek wine take note: here's your gateway bottle. From one of the country's top wineries, this is from Agiorgitiko grown in Nemea, left on the grape skins for 14 to 18 hours (hence the name) to give an extra bit of depth. It tastes of plum pie and dark stones, with a bigger dose of tannin than many roses but no shortage of exuberant fruit. (Importer: Athenee Importers) White Birichino Monterey Malvasia Bianca ($16, 13%)9/26/13 20great wines for fall, all $20or less - SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/thirst/article/20-great-wines-for-fall-all-20-or-less-4… 2/4 What: One of California's great new table wines Why: Alex Krause and John Locke have created a dark-horse hit with their young label. Malvasia offers the floral charm that has given Moscato a surprise run, and yet this is far more serious stuff, full of aromatic orange blossom and chewy, tangy fruit. Their source in the large San Bernabe Vineyard lets them work artisanally and yet at scale. Matteo Corregia Roero Arneis ($18, 13%) What: Piedmont's charming white, in a most serious form Why: Yes, the same Corregia whose Nebbiolo was spied by Rolling Stone in the hands of one Eddie Vedder, he of Pearl Jam. But this producer has been elevating the wines of southern Piedmont since Tears for Fears had summer's big hit. A reminder of how the region's floral Arneis grape tastes in classic form, full of iris, peach and green apple, and showing a mineral side to its fruitiness. (Importer: Gregory Condes Wines) Domaine Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko-Athiri ($18, 14%) What: An early-drinking gem from a white wine master Why: On the arid Greek island of Santorini, Paris Sigalas makes some of the world's great whites. The Assyrtiko grape is responsible for the most profound bottles, but this adds Athiri from vines over 50 years old on average for an astonishingly complex wine. It smells like the tropical liqueur velvet falernum - that's a huge compliment, by the way - plus iodine and crushed rock. A perfect counterpoint of stony and oily texture, austere and ripe, with canteloupe and almond and lime flavors. (Importer: Diamond Importers) Cowan Cellars Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($18, 12.7%) What: Proof that the Sauvignon Blanc spirit is alive and well Why: "Florida Jim" Cowan, based in Sonoma, specializes in more intellectual iterations of both this grape and Ribolla Gialla. But Sauvignon Blanc's simpler joys rally here, thanks in part to two days maceration on the grape skins and fermentation in old barrels, which provides a texture that's rich without heading into esoteric orange-wine territory. Rosemary and parsley aromas mix with warm fruit: quince, white peach and Meyer lemon. California's ripe bounty on display. Domaine Berthenet Vieilles VIgnes Bourgogne Aligot� ($13, 12.5%) What: The last path into affordable Burgundy Why: I've been saying for years that Aligot� - Burgundy's other, generally unloved white grape - is the region's remaining hope for the modestly walleted. Jean-Pierre Berthenet, based in the little-known Cote Chalonnaise village of Montagny-les Buxy, bolsters that argument. With an aspect of crushed sea shells and tree fruit flavors just ripe enough to round out a distinct chalky minerality, this shows the full texture that good Aligot� offers - at a price out of the Stereolab era. (Importer: Charles Neal Selections) Pieropan Soave ($15, 12%) What: An Italian classic on the upswing Why: Veneto's Soave region has been rallying in recent years thanks to a quality push from its top producers. Their family's wines were always a great example of Soave, even when the area was known mostly for plonk, and the wines coming from Andrea and Dario Pieropan should woo back even skeptics. Aged in glass-lined concrete, it's the perfect mix of soaring acidity and ripe texture: fresh sorrel and mint, plus richer pear and sweet corn flavors. (Importer: Empson USA) Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Feinherb Mosel Riesling ($20, 10.5%) What: A benchmark of new German white wine, newly arrived on the West Coast Why: In the past, German Riesling was viewed as either dry or sweet. But a handful of wines are appearing from producers who see things in subtler shades. Falkenstein's Erich Weber uses indigenous yeast and old casks, and he works in the Saar, a tributary of the Mosel once considered too cold for dry wine. Both this off-dry bottle and his Niedermenniger Herrenberg Kabinett Trocken ($19, 11%), a proximate love child of dry Riesling and Chablis, prove that's no longer the case. A mix of salty minerality with Fuji apple, rose hip and an exotic lime-leaf quality make this as revolutionary as it is thirst-quenching. (Importer: Lars Carlberg Selections/USA Wine West) Anselmo Mendes Contacto Vinho Verde Alvarinho ($20, 13%)9/26/13 20great wines for fall, all $20or less - SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/thirst/article/20-great-wines-for-fall-all-20-or-less-4… 3/4 What: A wine to make you rethink Vinho Verde Why: Spritzy carefree stuff from Portugal, right? Not if Mendes, one of the region's top talents, has his way. Twelve hours of soaking grapes on their skins has turned this into an astonishingly dense, complex take on the Alvarinho grape. Packed with white flowers, tangerine and a great mineral depth, it's a game changer. (Importer: Wine-In-Motion, LLC) Ponzi Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($17, 13.2%) What: An often overlooked Northwest benchmark Why: These aren't the best times for Pinot Gris - once Oregon's great hope until the blahs set in. But it remains a priority for Dundeebased Luisa Ponzi and her family. This is shoulder-season wine, with ripe apricot and almond to match tart and juicy green apple flavors. It always shows an intensity to charm white-wine lovers without the austerity that befalls so many steel-aged efforts. Red Fattoria di Fubbiano Rosso delle Colline Lucchesi ($19, 13.5%) What: A red for lovers of Chianti's old-fashioned charms Why: Perhaps it's Tuscan fickleness on the matter of Sangiovese, but the hills outside Lucca - despite their historic value - are an overlooked spot for the grape (plus Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo, which approximates Chianti's typical blend). As Chianti has fallen down the supermarket hole, this restored property in San Gennaro is upholding the best of Tuscan tradition. Loamy and balsam-accented, full of brambly fruit and a sanguine funk, this offers all the things Chianti lovers crave. (Importer: APS Wine & Spirits) Domaine Robert Serol Les Vieilles Vignes Cote Roannaise Red ($17, 12%) What: The greatness of Gamay, with a different postal code Why: First, before you make that Beaujolais snipe, acknowledge that the region and its key grape, Gamay Noir, are now the only hope of even approximating red Burgundy on a budget. Same notion here, from somewhere else: the hills outside Roanne, at the edge of the Loire. 40-year-old vines of the area's Gamay Saint Romain cultivar, grown on granite and porphyry, make for a stiffer structure than most Beaujolais - fleshed out by cherry fruit, mineral-edged tannins and plum-pudding richness. It's a utility player: Put it in the good glasses, or chill it slightly and serve instead of a ros�. (Importer: Joli Vin) Casa Santos Lima Quinta das Amoras Vinho Regional Lisboa Tinto ($6, 13%) What: Portugal's nuanced retort to supermarket reds Why: The monotony of mass-produced wine stems in part from this conundrum: Who can actually make interesting wine for under $8 without courting the lowest common denominator? Portugal, for one. This house, known for its Bons Ventos reds, harvests Castelao and several other indigenous grapes from its property north of Lisbon for a wine that mixes a smoky pimenton-like and black olive savory side with juicy berry flavors. (Importer: HGC Imports) Le Fraghe Bardolino ($14, 12%) What: The perfect red for the rose lover Why: Even compared to their cousins from Valpolicella, the wines of Bardolino have gotten scant attention in recent years, during the era when wine had to be either deep red or bright white. Today we live in a more complex world. Not far from Lake Garda, Matilde Poggi grows her Corvina and Rondinella to make the perfect fresh red for an age of nuance. Fragrant with candied violets and lilies, and full of tangy strawberry, it's got a sass - especially with a slight chill - to fit San Francisco's belated summer. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) Monasterio de Corias Seis Octavos Vino de Calidad de Cangas Red ($17, 12.5%) What: Undiscovered country for lovers of spicy reds Why: Tart cider may be the prime directive in northern Spain's chilly Asturias. But its wine culture is rapidly evolving. This converted monastery near Cangas del Narcea uses not only the Mencia found in Bierzo but also local grapes such as Albarin, Carrasquin and Verdejo Negro to make reds that fall somewhere between the northern Rhone's peppery charms and the headiness of the Loire's Franc-based reds. Grassy and smoky - think seared padron pepper - with a firm mineral side and tangy cranberry fruit. (Importer: Vinos & Gourmet) 2012 Weingut Knauss Wurttemberg Trollinger ($17, 11.5%) What: The next liter leader Why: True enough that 1-liter bottles, especially with a screw cap, have aesthetic issues. But come and live comfortably beyond 750 ml. This is the grape known in Italy as Schiava, but here from young vintner Andi Knauss, based in southern Germany. Again residing in the border zone between pink and red, it's all that a lover of subtle Pinot Noir could want: fragrant with an iris aspect, yet deeply fruity. (Importer: Selection Massale) Louis-Antoine Luyt Sauzal Maule Carignan ($19, 13.7%) What: A game changer for Chile Why: Luyt, a Burgundy native, and the old organically farmed Carignane vines of the Maule region, might be what sends a generation of skeptics to explore South American wine. From 60-year-old vines, this resembles a minimalist take from the Loire or Mendocino - hardly the stuff most Chilean wine is defined by. It's heady stuff, full of smoked pimenton, plus plum skin and a stony bite. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections) Jim Barry The Cover Drive Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($16, 14.5%) What: A secret source for standout Cabernet Why: Where do you get robust, complex Cab without going broke? Australia, and not their frivolous stuff. Coonawarra's great red soils are generally overlooked, but all Cab lovers should know them. The dust and eucalyptus here are a reminder of the grape's intrinsically leafy side, but there's juicy blackberry fruit and enough tannic grip to telegraph that it means business. (Importer: Negociants USA) NOTE: Alcohol levels listed are typically for the most recent vintages. Jon Bonn� is The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. Find more of his coverage at sfgate.com/wine. E-mail: jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com Twitter: @jbonne Ads by Yahoo! � -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 2 months

[wine] German Riesling

by Jim L. Ellingson

Hope you're surviving the heat. FYI, 20 miles on a bike last Saturday was NOT a good idea. Cheers, Jim August 22, 2013 Germany.s Rieslings on the Tip of the Tongue By ERIC ASIMOV The topic today is German rieslings, and since I already know the first question, let me start with the answer: No, not all German rieslings are sweet. In fact, sweet German rieslings may soon be an endangered species. How can this be? Simple. The Germans themselves, as has been true for several decades now, overwhelmingly prefer dry wines without any trace of residual sweetness. But to say Germans prefer dry wines suggests that much consideration has been given to the issue. Rather, as Terry Theise, a leading importer of German wines, recently said, .The omnipresence of dry wines within Germany is a dubious example of this country.s temptation to do things in large, implacable blocs.. He goes on to liken dry German rieslings to .a highly invasive species that wants to swallow up every other style.. The stranglehold of dry rieslings on the German wine-drinking public is so fierce that, as Mr. Theise and others have noted, the delicately sweet style of German rieslings may survive only because small but vociferous blocs of wine lovers outside of Germany prize it so. Mr. Theise recognizes that Germany produces many good, even great dry rieslings. As an importer, he occupies the painful position of embracing the virtues of one style, even if it may contribute to the demise of another, one that he adores. The wine panel felt Mr. Theise.s agony. I have loved Germany.s thrillingly tense sweet rieslings since I was a wine-lapping pup, and I wish to continue as the old dog I will one day become. The sweet style is thoroughly distinctive. Residual sugar is beautifully balanced by snappy acidity, making for a wine that is refreshing, even bracing, rather than cloying. No rieslings anywhere in the world are like these. Yet I can.t deny the appeal of the dry style. Few other dry rieslings capture a sense of place with as much crystalline precision and delicacy as Germany.s do. So I love them as well, and wonder why anyone should have to choose between them. Perhaps I.m a na�ve romantic, but in a heterogeneous world, the two styles should be able to thrive side by side. Having done our part to extol the pleasures of sweet rieslings in their kabinett, sp�tlese and auslese styles, the wine panel recently turned its attention to dry German rieslings. We tasted 20 bottles from the 2011 vintage. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by two other riesling lovers: Raj Vaidya, the head sommelier at Daniel, and Leo Schneemann, the sommelier at Kurt Gutenbrunner.s Austrian restaurants, including Walls�, Blaue Gans and Caf� Sabarsky. Regardless of our affection for these wines, we agreed that 2011 was not a great vintage. We found many wines that we liked, and a few that we loved, but our overall impression was that inconsistency marked the vintage. The effortless sense of pinpoint balance that makes German rieslings so distinctive was too often missing. What does that mean? In these dry wines, without the residual sweetness to create tension with the acidity, the balance must come instead from a wine.s body and texture, which include the components of alcohol and fruit. If captured properly, the wines feel full of energy, as if they are thrusting forward toward the next sip. If not, they feel flat and dull. To put it another way, many of the wines seemed to lack acidity, which makes 2011 an unusual contrast to 2010, when the level of acidity was fiendish. Such is the endless surprise and beauty of vintage variation. Strangely, some of the wines that I liked least seemed to have a phantom sense of sweetness to them, as if the wine itself was communicating what was missing. Is it possible that 2011 was a better vintage for making the sweet style than the dry, and that some of the dry 2011s might have been improved had they had a little residual sugar in the mix? Such paradox would be a bit too sweet, I.d say. Even so, the wines we liked best were deep and resonant, with energy to spare, all with a firm core of the mineral flavors that are so characteristic of German rieslings. The top five is like an honor roll of producers, with the important caveat that our selection of 20 bottles is a representative cross-section rather than a comprehensive survey. So while these were our favorites in the tasting, that.s a long way from saying these are the best dry German rieslings. They are simply awfully good ones. Our favorite was a mouthful: the Eitelsbacher Karth�userhofberg sp�tlese trocken from Karth�userhof in the Mosel, a complex, deep and energetic wine that offered just about everything we could want in a dry riesling. Not far behind were three others. The Dellchen Grosses Gew�chs from D�nnhoff in the Nahe is a beauty. Though still closed up, its precision and depth were apparent. It will need a couple of years to unwind a bit. The Winninger Hamm from Knebel in the Mosel was more immediately approachable, with rich, stony flavors, while the Von der Fels from Keller in the Rheinhessen was elegant and graceful. Likewise, it is already enjoyable. Incidentally, the Von der Fels is not Keller.s top dry riesling. Those wines are hard to find and very expensive. Nor are the other rieslings on our list necessarily the producers. top examples. Again, our aim was not to identify the best, but to look at a representative sample. While most of the names in our top 10 are well known, our best value, the Von Racknitz trocken from the Nahe, was new to me. It was deep, balanced and extraordinarily pleasing, and at $16, a great deal. I.ve steered clear of the knotty issue of German wine nomenclature here. Why? Because no matter how hard you try, it will not make sense. It doesn.t to me. As far as dry German riesling goes, the key word is .trocken.. Trocken means dry, and if the label says trocken, the wine will be dry. Nonetheless (and here is what.s maddening), while all wines labeled trocken will be dry, not all dry rieslings are labeled trocken. Some wines that are among a producer.s best may be labeled .grosses gew�chs,. that is, unless they come from the Rheingau region, in which case they may be labeled .erstes gew�chs.. At least I think that.s the way it works. One day in the distant future, German wine labeling rules will be easy to follow, and the dry and sweet styles will coexist in blissful harmony. Until then, we will muddle through and hope for the best. At least we can drink well. Tasting Report Karth�userhof, $40, *** � Mosel Eitelsbacher Karth�userhofberg Trocken 2011 Complex, layered and bold, with great energy, texture and depth. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, San Marcos, Calif.) D�nnhoff, $63, *** Nahe Dellchen Grosses Gew�chs 2011 Deep, tightly wound and precise, with lingering mineral flavors. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.) Knebel, $37, *** Mosel Winninger Hamm 2011 Focused and complex, with rich, stony flavors. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) Keller, $34, *** Rheinhessen Von der Fels 2011 Elegant and graceful, with aromas and flavors of minerals and flowers. (Petit Pois, Moorestown, N.J.) Immich-Batterieberg, $48, ** � Mosel Steffensberg Trocken 2011 Resonant aromas and flavors of minerals, flowers and peaches. (Louis/Dressner, New York) BEST VALUE Von Racknitz, $16, ** � Nahe Trocken 2011 Deep, rich and balanced, with citrus and earth flavors that linger. (Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, N.Y.) Gut Hermannsberg, $33, ** � Nahe Schlossb�ckelheimer Trocken 2011 Graceful yet deep, with mineral and floral flavors. (Winemonger, San Anselmo, Calif.) Emrich-Sch�nleber, $37, ** Nahe Mineral Trocken 2011 Lightly fruity and straightforward, with earthy, herbal accents. (Petit Pois, Moorestown, N.J.) M�ller-Catoir, $30, ** Pfalz Haardt Kabinett Trocken 2011 Savory and resonant, with citrus and floral aromas and flavors. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.) Knauss, $19, ** W�rttemberg Trocken .G. 2011 Balanced and juicy, with floral, mineral and citrus flavors. (S�lection Massale, San Leandro, Calif.) -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 3 months

[wine] Alcohol creep and 5 bargain bottles

by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI Alcohol content is tricky to label By Dave McIntyre, Published: August 6 .Would it be possible for you to include the alcohol content of the various wines that you review?. wrote William Byxbee of Charles Town, W.Va. .I have noticed over the years a definite trend towards increased percentages of alcohol, especially in some whites and ros�s that typically were low in alcohol and thus refreshing and drinkable. Now I see some in the 13-14.5 percent range. If you include this detail, I.m sure you will be giving your readers more options as they decide what wines to try.. Laments about .alcohol creep. are increasingly common. The phenomenon has been apparent in the past 20 years, especially in New World wines. Several factors are credited or blamed for the trend, depending on your perspective. Improved vineyard techniques enable vintners to ripen grapes more consistently to higher sugar levels. Commercial yeasts are more efficient at converting grape sugar to alcohol. Indicators of ripeness and when to harvest have expanded from mere sugar levels to include the suppleness of the grape skins and the color of the stems and seeds; both of those factors are ideal only at higher sugar (and therefore alcohol) levels. Global warming might even contribute. Wine critics have been blamed for awarding high scores to more powerful, riper wines. And those wines have been popular. Alcohol starts as sugar, after all, and lends an impression of sweetness to the finished wine. We Americans are notorious for our sweet tooth. This is not an insignificant trend. Simple math tells us a wine with 15 percent alcohol is 25 percent stronger than a 12 percent wine. That can add up over the course of an evening. Readers of this column know that I advocate a more elegant, restrained style of wine with moderate alcohol. Some blockbuster wines can work, but those are rare and not easily imitated. All too often, the alcohol skews the wine off-balance and leaves a .hot. impression on the palate. Even so, I have been hesitant about including alcohol levels in my reviews for two reasons. First, I want to encourage you to try various wines outside your comfort zone. I don.t want to give you excuses to judge them before you try them. Second, the alcohol level stated on a wine label isn.t necessarily accurate, a byproduct of federal regulations that have less to do with how we drink than with taxation. Wines between 7 percent and 14 percent alcohol are considered table wines, taxed at $1.07 per gallon, or about 21 cents per standard 750-milliliter bottle. However, there is a 1.5-percentage-point leeway, provided the wine doesn.t exceed 14 percent . meaning a wine labeled 12.5 percent could be as high as 14 percent. Wines at 14.1 percent or higher are considered dessert wines and taxed at $1.57 a gallon, or 31 cents per bottle. (There are other tax categories for wines and spirits over 21 percent alcohol, and all sparkling wines are taxed at $3.40 a gallon, or 67 cents per bottle.) For levels over 14 percent, wineries have a labeling leeway of 1 percentage point, meaning that your 16 percent zinfandel could clock in at anywhere between 15 percent and 17 percent. .The alcohol range leeway allows the government to decrease the number of labels submitted for approval and lowers the regulatory burden on small wineries,. says Michael Kaiser, communications director for WineAmerica, a national winery trade association. He gave the hypothetical example of a Virginia cabernet franc that attains 13.4 percent in 2010 but only 12.6 percent in 2011; the winery would not have to submit a new label for federal approval simply because of that change. The flexibility in the regulations helps wineries deal with the vagaries of vintage variation, as long as alcohol levels stay within a certain range from year to year. But from a truth-in-labeling standpoint, the alcohol level on the label is less helpful to us consumers. Even so, beginning this week I will include the label.s alcohol content in my reviews. Think of it as an indicator of style, not quality. And please don.t use it to calculate your blood alcohol level. McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. On Twitter: @dmwine. More from Food: Wine Bargain-priced summer wines to try By Dave McIntyre, Published: August 6 Bargain Bottles ...Exceptional ...Excellent..Very Good Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be available at additional stores. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Here are my monthly recommendations of wines that overperform for the price. These selections cost between $9 and $15, and all are .Great Values.. Beginning today, my weekly list will specify the alcohol content of each wine. Louis Latour Bourgogne Gamay 2011 .. Beaujolais, France, $15 Bourgogne Gamay is a new appellation controllee with the 2011 vintage. The grapes must be grown in the cru villages of Beaujolais, but they do not have to be entirely of the gamay variety. This wine is 15 percent pinot noir, which makes it a nice .bistro wine. for casual dining, with earthy qualities for extra interest. Alcohol content: 13 percent. M Touton Selection: Available in the District at Capital City Wine & Spirits, Capitol Hill Wine and Spirits, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits. Available in Maryland at Bay Wine & Spirits in North Beach; the Bottle Shop in Potomac; Bradley Food & Beverage and Cork 57 Beer and Wine in Bethesda; Dawson.s Liquors in Severna Park; Franklin.s Restaurant, Brewery and General Store in Hyattsville; Greenbelt Co-op; Hair o. the Dog in Easton; Old Farm Liquors in Frederick; Port of Call Liquors in Solomons; Quench! Beer-Wine-Deli in Colesville; Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington; Village Pump Liquors in College Park. Branger Le Fils des Gras Moutons Muscadet Sur Lie 2012 .. Loire Valley, France, $14 Citrusy and refreshing, this is a .food wine.: Don.t sip it by itself on the patio, but pair it with raw oysters, seafood salads or other light fare, and it won.t let you down. Alcohol content: 12 percent. Vintage 59/Country Vintner: Available in the District at Arrowine and Spirits, Rodman.s; on the list at all Clyde.s locations, Old Ebbitt Grill, Ris, Rappahannock Oyster Bar. Available in Maryland at Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington. Paul Jaboulet A�n� Parall�le 45 Ros� 2011/2012 .1 / 2 Rhone, France, $12 This reliable C�tes du Rh�ne producer makes a nice ros�, too: a blend of grenache, cinsault and syrah. Pale in color and racy in acidity, it is an ideal summer aperitif or partner to lighter foods. The local distributors are transitioning from the 2011 to the 2012; either is a good bet. The younger offers extra freshness, the older a bit more complexity. Alcohol content: 13 percent. Southern/F.P. Winner (Availability information unavailable for the District and Maryland, but this label often appears in supermarkets.) Virginia Imports: Available in Virginia at Harris Teeter (Arlington, Ashburn, Gainesville, Manassas, Reston, Warrenton), Metro Cafe & Gourmet in Arlington; on the list at La Creperie and Ristorante Murali in Arlington, Vinifera Wine Bar & Bistro in Reston. Honoro Vera Garnacha 2012 .1 / 2 Calatayud, Spain, $10 The somewhat disturbing label art on the bottle introduces a brooding example of garnacha. The category has become known for cheap, fruity Spanish reds; this one is more subtle and serious, though still a tasty dram for the price. Alcohol content: 14 percent. Country Vintner: Available in the District at De Vino.s, D.Vines, Rodman.s, Yes! Organic Market. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, I.M. Wine in Fulton, Old Line Fine Wine, Spirits & Bistro in Beltsville, Rodman.s (Wheaton, White Flint). Available in Virginia at all Wegmans and Total Wine & More locations. Domaine Ferrer Ribi�re F Blanc 2012 .1 / 2 C�tes Catalanes, France, $9 The C�tes Catalanes, along the southern coast of France near the border with Spain, produce lively, unpretentious white wines, including this sprightly bottling with accents of ginger and jasmine. Alcohol content: 13.5 percent. Dionysus: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Chat.s Liquors, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Cork & Fork, Rodman.s. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage and Cork & Fork in Bethesda, Mom.s Organic Market (Rockville); on the list at Sushiko in Chevy Chase. Available in Virginia at Culpeper Cheese Co., Mom.s Organic Market (Alexandria, Herndon, Merrifield), Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Whole Foods Market (Charlottesville). More from Food: Wine Measuring .alcohol creep. 5 Russian River Valley wines to try -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

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