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1040 discussions

by Jim L. Ellingson

Looking to save money for your tax bill? Here u go. 5 European wines to try, at $15 and under By Dave McIntyre, Tuesday, April 2, 11:57 AM Bargain Bottles ...Exceptional ..Excellent..Very Good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Here are this month.s bargain wines, priced from $10 to $15, which over-perform for the price and offer tremendous value.. D.M. Domaine Gouron Chinon 2010 ..1 / 2 Chinon, France, $15 Here.s French cabernet franc in all its white-pepper finery, with bing cherry flavors and a hint of earth. It.s the clean, more modern side of Chinon. The winery also produces a more intense cuvee called Terroir ($23). Bacchus: Available in the District at Capitol Supreme Market, Rodman.s; on the list at Bistro Bis, Woodward Table. Available in Maryland at Bin 604 Wine Sellers, Harborview Liquors, North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits and Wells Discount Liquors in Baltimore; Bin 201 Wine Sellers and Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis. On the list at Bolton Hill Bistro, Charleston and Petit Louis in Baltimore. Domaine Lafage Cote Est 2011 .. Catalan, France, $13 Jean-Marc Lafage is a leading young winemaker in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of southern France. This blend of grenache blanc, chardonnay and marsanne offers citrusy notes of lime and grapefruit along with a fleshy fruitiness, making it ideal for casual sipping or to accompany zesty seafood dishes. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Rodman.s. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville, Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, I.M. Wine in Fulton, Roots Market in Olney. Available in Virginia at Slaters Market in Alexandria, Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview). Acentor Garnacha 2011 .. Calatayud, Spain, $12 Spicy berry flavors are typical of good, inexpensive Spanish garnacha, and this wine delivers them, along with smoky earthiness for added interest. Not a particularly complex wine, just a really fun one. Another hit from sommelier-turned-importer Aurelio Cabestrero. Elite: Available in the District at Bell Wine & Spirits, Calvert Woodley, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Cordial Fine Wine & Spirits, Modern Liquors, Paul.s of Chevy Chase, Rodman.s, Wagshal.s Market; on the list at Boqueria, Marcel.s, Rasika, Station 4, Taberna del Alabardero, Ulah Bistro. Available in Maryland at Annebeth.s in Annapolis, Chesapeake Wine Co. in Baltimore, Fairgrounds Discount Beverages in Timonium, Mt. Airy Liquors. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Beer Run in Charlottesville, Cheesetique (Alexandria, Shirlington), Greenwood Gourmet Grocery in Crozet, Vino Volo at Dulles International Airport, Wine Styles in Montclair. Bulgariana Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 .1 / 2 Thracian Valley, Bulgaria, $10 This is the second Bulgarian label I.ve recommended in recent weeks. A trend? If this line is any indication, let.s hope so. The cabernet sauvignon offers the classic flavors of blackberry and currant at an attractive price. The Imperial Red Blend and especially the Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend are even better . each at about $12. If the cabernet-syrah had come from Provence, it probably would have cost twice as much. Wow. G & B Importers: Widely available in the District, including at Chat.s Liquors, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Dixie Liquors, D.Vines, Modern Liquors, Rodman.s, Sherry.s Fine Wine & Spirits, and Wine Specialist. Widely available in Maryland, including at Bradley Food and Beverage, Capital Beer & Wine, and Georgetown Square Beer & Wine in Bethesda; European Delight Deli and Bakery and Kielbasa Factory in Rockville; Fenwick Beer & Wine in Silver Spring; Fox Chapel Beer & Wine and Shady Grave Beer, Wine & Cheese in Gaithersburg; and Urban Cellars and Wine Underground in Baltimore. Mas de La Source Chardonnay 2011 . Languedoc, France, $10 A simple, delicious chardonnay, it.s uncomplicated by oak or pretense. Elite: Available in the District at Rodman.s; on the list at Bistro Napoleon, Sea Catch. Available in Maryland at Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits and Crush Winehouse in Annapolis, Chesapeake Wine Co. in Baltimore, Potomac Gourmet Market at National Harbor; on the list at Geste and Sala Thai in Bethesda. On the list in Virginia at Prime Gourmet in Ashburn, Piero.s Corner in Fairfax City. More from Food: Drink in Southwest France 5 wines to try from Southwest France -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 8 months

[wine] Ted Lemon: great dirt neither sentimental nor xenophobic

by Russell McCandless

For a transcript of Ted Lemon's (Littorai) extremely thought-provoking presentation to the recent Mornington Peninsula pinot noir convention, look here: http://blog.jjbuckley.com/2013/02/20/ted-lemon-on-noble-place-in-new-world-w inegrowing/ I would love to sit down with him over a couple of glasses of wine and find out what he means when he says we should not use Burgundy as a measuring stick - I think I disagree on that, although it certainly depends. How I might say something similar: when pinot diverges too far from the Burgundian model, we have a problem, although New World pinots are not better or less good based solely on how much they do or don't resemble Burgundy. Think Spring! Russ

12 years, 9 months

[wine] V-Day Carbonic Maserations

by Jim L. Ellingson

OK, it's V-Day Fizz... Oh, and the "Stars" aka "*" come through as "." on my mail tool. Enjoy. Vin and V-Day: Spend wisely By Dave McIntyre, Tuesday, February 5, 4:06 PM As Moez Ben Achour approaches a table at Marcel.s, Robert Wiedmaier.s haute restaurant in the District.s West End, he is already assessing his clients. thirst. On Valentine.s Day, the sommelier knows his task can be even more challenging. .Everybody has already spent money on the gift, maybe even an engagement ring, and they are splurging on the food. So I know the bank will be low,. Ben Achour says. .They.re looking for a wine that offers romance and value, especially on the sparkling side.. Ben Achour.s recommendation for the budget-conscious romantic is a sparkling wine from Burgundy: the Michel Sarrazin Cremant de Bourgogne Ros�, made entirely from pinot noir grapes. While it doesn.t come from the Champagne region and cannot legally carry that prestigious name on its label, the wine is made in the same method as champagne. Cremant de Bourgogne is the insider.s secret in sparkling wines, because it often approaches champagne in quality without commanding the same price. And, of course, the Burgundians know a thing or two about pinot noir. Local sommeliers I spoke with about Valentine.s Day choices struck similar chords: bubbles for celebration, ros� for everyday romance, modestly priced picks for young lovers. Richard Dunham, who directs the wine program at L.Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls, one of the Washington region.s most romantic dining spots, suggests half-bottles to provide appropriate variety and set the mood. He.s bold enough to suggest a sweet champagne, such as the Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec, to start the meal. .It pairs well with our appetizer of Roquefort cheese and caramelized apple,. Dunham says. For chateaubriand for two, he recommends a half-bottle of Shafer Merlot 2009 from Napa Valley. .Its supple elegance will have you gazing not only into the glass but at each other,. he says, as though he were pouring romance rather than wine. That meal for two would cost about $350. More-budget-minded diners could substitute two glasses each of Jean-Baptiste Adam Cremant d.Alsace, another French sparkling wine, and a 2009 Bordeaux with the whimsical name of Chateau Baby, and pay about $250. Scott Clime, wine and beverage director for the Passion Food Hospitality group . which includes DC Coast, Acadiana, District Commons and Passionfish, among others . also thinks of ros�: the Gruet Ros� non-vintage sparkling wine from New Mexico, which he describes as .a garnet-colored wine with a floral bouquet of strawberry, raspberry and cherry.. At $17 retail, it is a terrific value. He recommends an Argyle Riesling 2010 from Oregon and a Vina Cobos Malbec 2010 from Argentina . both at less than $20 a bottle retail . to round out the meal. If you.re dining at CityZen, sommelier Andy Myers might serve you sparkling wine at the end of the meal. .If the couple.s young, playful and romantic, I go for moscato d.Asti,. Myers says. .We will pour you a glass for your birthday or anniversary. It.s a great wine with dessert: sweet, and the alcohol.s not too high.. He recommends a moscato called Annalisa, which retails for a modest $12. Moscato needn.t be limited to the end of the meal, he notes: .My mom drinks a glass the minute she sits down.. Should you be dining at Plume in the Jefferson Hotel, sommelier Michael Scaffidi has splurge suggestions for the end of your Valentine.s meal. If all has gone well, opt for a glass of Madeira. If you are having the wine pairings with your menu, the Love Letters dessert will be paired with On the Wings of Dawn, a sweet wine from Austria made by Heidi Schroeck. The wine carries a double-entendre for lovers, Scaffidi warns: The name for this particular style of dessert wine, means .escape. in German. McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine. More from Food: Spirits Column Beer Column The Maderia voyage that starts downtown Sommelier-recommended Valentine.s Day wines Tuesday, February 5, 4:02 PM Recommendations ...Exceptional ..Excellent..Very Good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Here are Valentine.s Day wine recommendations. Some are from the sommeliers I interviewed for my accompanying column, and some are from my own tastings. . Dave McIntyre Duval-Leroy Brut ..1 / 2 Champagne, France, $45 This perennial value was better than ever when I tasted it recently, brilliantly showing the tart red-fruit flavors of pinot noir and pinot meunier and the fleshiness of chardonnay. Prestige in the District and Maryland; Virginia Imports in Virginia: Available in the District at Cairo Wine & Liquor, Pearson.s. Available in Maryland at Cork 57 Beer and Wine in Bethesda; Dawson.s Market in Rockville; Graul.s Wine & Spirits, North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits and the Wine Source in Baltimore; Wine Cellars of Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Curious Grape in Arlington, Ashburn Wine Shop, Balducci.s and Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Cork & Fork in Gainesville, Out of Site Wines and Vienna Vintner in Vienna, Planet Wine & Gourmet and Unwined in Alexandria, various locations of Trader Joe.s and Wegmans, Virginia Fine Wines in Springfield, Whole Foods Market (Alexandria and Vienna), Wine Styles in Dumfries; on the list at Euro Bistro in Herndon, Willow in Arlington. Simonnet-Febvre Brut Ros� Cremant de Bourgogne .. Burgundy, France, $20 This producer, based in Chablis in northern Burgundy, is one of my favorites for value-oriented chardonnay and sparkling wines. The Brut Ros� shines with cherry and strawberry flavors. Its razor-sharp balance complements food and makes you ready for more. M Touton Selection: Available in the District at Best in Liquors, Central Liquors, Congress Market, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, PanMar Wine & Liquor, Rodman.s, Sherry.s Fine Wine & Spirits, U Street Mini Mart, Watergate Wine & Beverage; on the list at Windows Cafe. Available in Maryland at Bethesda Co-Op in Cabin John, the Bottle Shop in Potomac, Bradley Food & Beverage and Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville, Old Farm Liquors in Frederick, Rodman.s in White Flint, Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington; on the list at Bistro Provence in Bethesda. Gruet Brut Ros� .1 / 2 New Mexico, $19 Gruet.s sparkling wines from New Mexico are an American treasure: top-notch fizz with real champagne character at an affordable price. The ros� is a good for a romantic interlude, and the entire lineup is worth exploring. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Pearson.s, Rodman.s, Wagshal.s Market, Whole Foods Market P Street, Yes! Organic Market. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Pine Orchard Wine in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Grape + Bean in Alexandria, Grateful Red Wine & Gift Shop in Arlington, Total Wine & More in McLean and Springfield, Whole Foods Market Fair Lakes. Annalisa Moscato d.Asti .1 / 2 Piedmont, Italy, $12 Bright, fruity, bubbly and sweet. What you don.t finish for dessert could go nicely with blueberry pancakes for brunch. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Lion.s Fine Wine & Spirits, Whole Foods Market P Street. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville, I.M. Wine in Fulton, the Perfect Pour in Elkridge. Available in Virginia at Slaters Market in Alexandria, Total Wine & More (Alexandria, McLean, Springfield), Wine House in Fairfax. Loredan Gasparini Casa Bianca Prosecco Ros� .1 / 2 Veneto, Italy, $11 This budget sparkler is a nice scene-setter: Its bubbles help set the mood, and the pink color, from 15 percent pinot noir in the blend, will sparkle in the candlelight. Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, A Litteri, Wagshal.s Market, Whole Foods Market (P Street, Tenleytown). Available in Maryland at Balducci.s and Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda, Urban Cellars in Baltimore, Sav-On Liquors in Reisterstown, Eastport Liquors in Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Balducci.s (McLean and Alexandria), the Italian Store in Arlington, Whole Foods Market (Alexandria, Tysons Corner, Reston), Unwined (Alexandria and Belleview). More from Food: Spirits Column Beer Column -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 10 months

[wine] [fred@wwcellars.com: Wine Tasting Tomorrow and Saturday]

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, This will be a re-post for many of you, so apologies if it is. For those on the wine@thebarn list who are not on Fred's list, the is news. :) Our freind Fred will be pouring wine at our friend David's shop at France and 44th. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from Fred Petters <fred(a)wwcellars.com> ----- X-Auth: authenticated as Return-Path: <fred(a)wwcellars.com> Received: from smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu (smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu [128.101.142.227]) by mail.enet.umn.edu (8.14.2/8.14.2) with ESMTP id r03IPQQh082864 for <jellings(a)mail.enet.umn.edu>; Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:25:26 -0600 (CST) (envelope-from fred(a)wwcellars.com) Received: from atl4mhob04.myregisteredsite.com (atl4mhob04.myregisteredsite.com [209.17.115.42]) by smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu (8.14.4/8.14.4) with ESMTP id r03IP72R086516 for <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>; Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:25:22 -0600 (CST) (envelope-from fred(a)wwcellars.com) Received: from mailpod.hostingplatform.com (mail.networksolutionsemail.com [205.178.146.50]) by atl4mhob04.myregisteredsite.com (8.14.4/8.14.4) with ESMTP id r03IP5ou024182 for <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>; Thu, 3 Jan 2013 13:25:05 -0500 Received: (qmail 30227 invoked by uid 0); 3 Jan 2013 18:25:05 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO ?192.168.0.9?) (fredp@rootstockwineco.com@184.97.242.34) by 0 with ESMTPA; 3 Jan 2013 18:25:05 -0000 From: Fred Petters <fred(a)wwcellars.com> Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Apple-Mail=_9B01983E-0EBE-4DCE-9BD6-F7F594C94F5C" Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:24:56 -0600 Subject: Wine Tasting Tomorrow and Saturday To: fredp(a)rootstockwineco.com Message-Id: <349A39AD-6B65-486A-B8A5-BAC064900115(a)wwcellars.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 (Mac OS X Mail 6.2 $1499$) X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.1499) X-Greylist: Sender IP whitelisted by DNSRBL, not delayed by milter-greylist-4.2.3 (smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu [128.101.142.227]); Thu, 03 Jan 2013 12:25:22 -0600 (CST) X-Spam-Score: 0.09 () EL_HELO_OUTMX,EL_OUTMX,HTML_FONT_FACE_BAD,HTML_MESSAGE,RCVD_IN_DNSWL_NONE X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.67 on 128.101.142.227 Open to the public, that means you! France 44 Wines 44th and France Ave S Minneapolis www.france44.com Friday 4 - 7 Saturday 1 - 6 We'll have 8 wines open to taste! I hope you are able to make it ? these are pretty amazing ? all from small family producers. They are with notes: Eric Louis, VdF Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France Grape: Sauvignon Blanc Harvested from vineyards just south-east of Sancerre in the Loire Valley, the grapes are pressed immediately. Fermentation is done slowly in temperature-controlled vats. The resulting wine has a fresh fruity nose that beholds, or shall we say, carries a beautiful mixed aroma of fresh fruit ? passion fruit? This little number is a lovely ap?ritif, meaning it?s a great way to get the evening rolling. Of course it?s also a natural for any kind of seafood or fish. Dry farmed ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Matello Caprice, Yamhil-Carlton AVA, Oregon, US Grapes: 80% Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Gris ?Vineyard soils are from the oldest marine sedimentary deposits in Oregon. The fruit is fermented cool and slow in stainless steel to maintain fruit purity, malo-lactic is blocked to keep the wine vibrant, and the Caprice ages for 18 months on the fine lees before bottling. Caprice has white flower notes, a slight smokiness, and hints of mango and passion fruit in the nose. The palate is full, with stone fruit and tropical notes dominating. Then a rich texture and mouth-watering acidity. It?s a perfect foil for seafood ? think scallops and lobster. It?s also an excellent match with fresh watermelon or heirloom tomatoes with a touch of salt. This wine will evolve for the next several years in bottle and can be drunk anytime between now and 2015 (maybe longer, but we?ll see).? -Marcus Goodfellow, winemaker and owner Sustainable production - dry farmed - hand harvested ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Gulfi Rossojbleo, IGT Sicily, Italy Grape: Nero d?Avola An unusual and delicious expression of grape and terroir, this delicate, yet serious wine has incredible structure. On the palate, dry red fruit and delicate tastes of wild herbs. One can almost smell the Mediterranean. Unoaked and fresh, this believe it or not, is an excellent wine with fish ? think tuna and swordfish ? I?m even willing to bet walleye. Organic production - dry farmed - hand harvested ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Oddero Barbera d?Alba, DOC Piedmont, Italy Grapes: Barbera Wine with an exciting floral component, fresh, a pretty taste if you will, albeit rustic. A charmer. Delicious. Fer- mented in stainless steel, the wine is then aged about 12 months in huge, huge casks known in Italy as ?botti?. The idea is for the cask to add complexity with the subtle exchange of oxygen through wood, while maintaining a neutral taste or flavor ? i.e. not much in the way of ?oakiness? ? the concept being an expression of fruit, not of wood. Organic production - dry farmed ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Ch?teau de Ciffre, St Chinian AOC, France Grapes: Syrah, Grenache, Carignan >From southern France where the sun almost always shines, comes this lovely wine grown on rocky schist. Cold maceration of 20 to 30 days with gentle extraction. Round and smooth, this wine is gently layered with subtle flavors of dark red fruit, herbs, spice and just plain simple goodness. Not a breakfast wine, but boy oh boy, killer with dinner. Goes well with simple kickback cooking, but also will uphold to the rigor of high cuisine. Dry farmed ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Haut Rian Rouge, Cotes de Bordeaux AOC, France Grapes: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. A traditional blend with finesse and structure ? amazing value. Gentle notes of spice and fruit with a supple, elegant finish and mild tannins. A wine for food, this will go well with many a hearty winter dish. There has been much excitement over the ?09 vintage from Bordeaux and this wine clearly is an exceptional example. Sustainable production - dry farmed ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Cono 4, Primitivo Quiles, Alicante DO, Spain Grape: 100% Monestrell (aka Mourvedre) >From 50-60 year old vines. Aged in very large, old wooden casks, which are called ?conos? (hence the name of the wine, Cono 4). Dark color, black olives and meaty, savory characteristics on the nose, on the palate cherries, choco- late, spice, figs ? a bit mysterious in a way. This is a wine for braised meat and rich food. Sustainable production - dry farmed ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Peter Nicolay ?riziger Goldwingert Sp?tlese, Mosel, Germany Grape: Riesling The Mosel wine area is located in the south-west part of Germany, 65 mi west of Frankfurt near the French/ Luxembourg border. The ?rziger Goldwingert vineyard is less than 0.3 hectares (0.74 acres) in size and is there- fore one of the smallest vineyards in Germany. The self-rooted Riesling vines grow on deep grey-red slate soil with a high stone content. From Wine Spectator Magazine Nov 2011: ?Rich and juicy, with flavors of ripe citrus that show lots of zesty overtones of smoke and spice. There?s plenty of fresh acidity, which lingers on the firm finish. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases made. 92 pts ?KM? Organic production - dry farmed - hand harvested Happy New Year! Fred : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Fred Petters WorldWide Cellars dba: Rootstock Wine Company Casket Arts Building 681 NE 17th Ave, Ste 160 Minneapolis, MN 55413 rootstockwineco.com (t) 612.423.4392 (f) 612.465.4808 (e) fredp(a)rootstockwineco.com ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 11 months

[wine] Champagne

by Jim L. Ellingson

Are any of these available locally? Champagne: Get the good stuff By Dave McIntyre, Tuesday, December 18, 12:54 PM A vintner recently asked me to name my favorite wine. It.s a common question, since I write about wine, and I usually demur with some bromide about choosing a favorite child, or I go for a laugh with .Whatever you.re pouring!. But this time, overcome by an uncharacteristic honesty, I confided that if I had to choose one type of wine to drink for the rest of my life, it would be champagne. My host seemed surprised and disappointed, and not only because he was offering me his (quite nice) viognier. Champagne to him was too frivolous a wine to choose as a one-and-only tipple. But I agree with the economist John Maynard Keynes, who uttered on his deathbed, .I should have drunk more champagne.. I think I say that every year when I sample champagnes for this holiday column. I always make a New Year.s resolution to drink more of them, but that goes by the wayside almost as fast as the one about exercise and weight control. Why do we limit champagne to the holidays and special occasions such as weddings and baseball pennants? One reason is image. Champagne producers have for decades, if not longer, marketed their wine as a luxury product, an extravagance that runs counter to a cursed Puritan work ethic. And it.s priced like a luxury object. Even the least expensive champagnes, such as the very fine Charles de Cazanove Brut, cost about $30 a bottle. That.s not an everyday drink. There are other sparkling wines, of course. Spanish cava, Italian prosecco, cremants from other regions of France, sekt from Germany and Austria and delightfully fizzy chenin blanc from South Africa can turn any ordinary day into a special occasion for a fraction of the price of champagne. U.S. sparkling wines from Virginia, New York, New Mexico and, of course, California can be impressively deep, complex and satisfying. But they are not champagne. Champagne is more than a method: the technique of creating bubbles through a second fermentation in the bottle rather than through carbonation in a tank. It is a wine expressive of its origin in a particular region of France. That region.s cool, often troublesome climate and its chalky soils are reflected in every bottle. Like the world.s finest wines, it is a product as much of place as of grapes. It cannot be made anywhere else. To illustrate that point for friends, I recently opened a Pierre Paillard Brut Ros� non-vintage champagne and a Schramsberg 2007 Brut Ros� from California. They were identical in appearance, a bright salmon color with fine beads of bubbles. Both were delicious. But the Paillard, which retails for $53, showed an earthy minerality and laser focus under its steely red-fruit flavors, while the Schramsberg ($40) was expansive and fruity, softer and more mouth-filling. The Schramsberg tasted of California, its warmth and sunshine. The Paillard was invigorating. Each sip of the Schramsberg made me smile; each taste of the Paillard left me eager for a bite to eat or another sip. Was one better than the other? Not necessarily. But champagne lovers crave and are willing to pay for that distinctive energy and statement of origin that says, .This is champagne.. This holiday season, whether you celebrate with champagne or bubbly from elsewhere, I hope you will join me in a resolution to keep the celebration going into the New Year. McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine. Six true Champagnes bargains By Dave McIntyre, Tuesday, December 18, 12:49 PM Recommended champagnes r r rExceptional .r rExcellent.rVery Good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. The half-dozen bottles on this list will make your celebrations . annual or daily . quite satisfying. A few are in limited supply. And four will cost you $40 or less. . D.M. The half-dozen bottles on this list will make your celebrations . annual or daily . quite satisfying. A few are in limited supply. And four will cost you $40 or less. Pierre Paillard Brut Ros� Bouzy ... Champagne, France, $53 The salmon-tinted fizz shoots a beam of red-berry flavors across the palate, as if the bubbles are eager to escape the glass. Then its long and satisfying finish keeps it firmly anchored earthward, in Champagne. Potomac Selections: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits; on the list at Cork Wine Bar. Available in Maryland at Grand Cru in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria. Jean Vesselle Ros� Demi-Sec Friandise ... Champagne, France, $48 This ever-so-slightly sweet ros� is fruitier than most champagne, yet not as fruity as New World sparkling typically gets. Don.t think of it as sweet. (Demi-sec literally means .half-dry. but is often rather sweet.) The slight residual sugar is kept in check by the lively acidity, and this wine would be a terrific partner to Asian cuisines or light fruit desserts. Dionysus: Available in the District at Rodman.s, Wagshal.s Market; on the list at Adour. Available in Maryland at Balducci.s in Bethesda, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Balducci.s in Alexandria and McLean, Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Unwined in Alexandria and Belleview. Charles de Cazanove Brut ..1 / 2 Champagne, France, $30 Wow. What a terrific champers for the money. It.s an excellent introduction to what makes champagne special, and those already familiar with the genre will appreciate its sophistication. Widely available, it.s the value find of the year. M Touton Selection: Available at Burka.s Wine & Liquor, Cairo Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Harry.s Reserve Fine Wine & Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder.s, Paul.s of Chevy Chase, Rodman.s. Available in Maryland at Balducci.s, Beer Wine & Co. and Bethesda Co-Op in Bethesda; Camelot Discount Liquors, Roundabout Fine Wine & Spirits in Laurel; Columbia Palace Wine & Spirits in Columbia; Franklin.s Liquors in Ijamsville; Frederick Wine House and Old Farm Liquors in Frederick; Glenwood Wine & Spirits; Greenbelt Co-op; Hillandale Beer & Wine in Silver Spring; Potomac Beer & Wine in Rockville; Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington; State Line Liquors in Elkton; Wine Bin in Ellicott City; Wine Harvest in Potomac. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Grateful Red Wine & Gift Shop in Arlington; Chain Bridge Cellars and the Vineyard in McLean; Crystal City Wine Shop; Leesburg Vintner; Rio Hill Wine & Gourmet in Charlottesville; Unwined in Alexandria; various Whole Foods Market locations. Thierry Triolet Grande Reserve Brut ..1 / 2 Champagne, France, $40 Toasty and rich, this is a nice champagne to have with medium-weight poultry or fish dishes. Wine Traditions: Available in the District at A.M. Wine Shoppe, Cork Market; on the list at Cashion.s Eat Place, Cork Wine Bar, the Tabard Inn. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington. Roland Champion Cuvee d.Aramis Brut .1 / 2 Champagne, France, $35 This is a powerful champagne, showing the red-berry fruit of its red grapes . pinot meunier and pinot noir.. and the chalky minerality of the region. Delightful, and a terrific value. Kysela: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Magruder.s, P&C Market, Paul.s of Chevy Chase. Available in Virginia at Wine Lovers in Richmond, Out of Site Wines in Vienna. R. Dumont & Fils Brut .. Champagne, France, $35 >From the southern part of Champagne, where most of the grapes are sold to the major houses, comes this beautifully made brut that offers true champagne character at a rather low price, making it attractive for restaurants to serve by the glass. Wine Traditions: Available in the District at Ace Beverage; on the list at Bistrot Lepic, Ripple. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, J. Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Maison du Vin in Great Falls, Rick.s Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria; on the list at Bastille in Alexandria. More from Food: Spirits Column Beer Column -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 11 months

[wine] Ten Versatile Values 4 U

by Jim L. Ellingson

10 versatile wines for holiday cheer Jon Bonn� Updated 7:22 p.m., Friday, November 30, 2012 Perhaps even more than at Thanksgiving, choosing wine for a holiday party is a matter of diplomacy. You want to spread cheer and keep the festivities well lubricated, so to speak. I've been shopping for a few weeks with an eye to the season, and to seasonal budgets. Even if this is the year for holiday celebrations to resume, that doesn't mean we're feeling Zuckerberg flush. Which means your wine choices might have to do double duty - a red that can appease both Cabernet and Pinot drinkers, for instance. A white that has the rich charms of Chardonnay and the twang of Sauvignon Blanc, without falling to the extremes of either. Wines that manage colorful without being quirky. With that in mind, I set out to do a 10-wine holiday version of my occasional hunt for 20 wines costing $20 or less. In this case I left out bubbles (we covered those in detail last week: bit.ly/V2050u) and focused on bottles that can work both in the cocktail realm and at the dinner table. What follows, then, are 10 exceptional wines for the holidays - plenty to keep you and your guests in good cheer through the next four weeks. NV Bedrock Shebang! Fifth Cuvee North Coast Red ($13, 14.2% alcohol): This second label from Morgan Twain-Peterson is now officially under his Bedrock label. The quality remains stellar. This latest, a mix of vintages 2009 through 2011, leads off with Syrah, matched by Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, mixed black grapes and a miscellany of other things. It's inky and pleasantly savory, with toasted fennel, suede, a floral side and big, chewy blue fruit - complexity and a robust side for your guests' full range of tastes. 2011 Herv� Azo Petit Chablis ($18, 12%): Now run by the Brocard house, Azo remains one of Chablis' great outperformers. Here's a terrific candid shot of Chardonnay without makeup, exactly what Petit Chablis should be. Flinty and stark, but also showing lots of fruit from a riper vintage - apple and quince to match its zesty side. (Importer: Beaune Imports) 2011 Blue Plate Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($11, 12%): This Napa label again delivers one of the best values on the shelf, and again shows the beauty of this grape when grown in the Clarksburg area of the delta. Full-flavored and even peppier than the previous vintage, with shiso-like herbal notes and citrus peel. Nuanced and user-friendly enough to bridge the Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio divide. 2011 Domaine de la Pepi�re Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($14, 12%): Marc Ollivier's white-label Muscadet remains a classic in any vintage, but 2011's tough weather meant more of his best lots went into the white label. So there's unusual depth in the basic bottle - a custard-like richness to match its intense saline bite. With preserved lemon, chervil, ripe white peach and honeydew skin, it's texturally deep but also lively and pure. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections) 2010 Banshee Wines Rickshaw California Pinot Noir ($14, 14%): Value-minded Banshee tapped sources in Sonoma, Anderson Valley and elsewhere to come up with a Pinot that satisfies cocktail-party thirst. Some warm wood notes, plus licorice and jammy cherry make this a good gut-check Pinot, one that offers plenty of fruit without getting in your face. A small portion of profits go to charity, a nice holiday touch. 2011 Northwest Wine Co. Kudos Willamette Valley Riesling ($12, 12.5%): It's usually Washington that offers great value in Riesling, but here's one from one of Oregon's few custom-crush winemaking companies that can compete against popular fave Pacific Rim. Tart and relatively dry, with green apple and mint flavors, it shows a density of flavors that most inexpensive Riesling can't offer. 2010 Louis Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($18, 13.8%): This well-known name, now part of Gallo, continues to turn out an immensely pleasing Cabernet for less than $20. With a bit of fruit from outside Sonoma and some blending grapes mixed in, this comes across as racy and fresh. Sweet black currant and red cherry, plus heady aromas of dried sage and clove. A higher-acid edge reveals the cool vintage, but it remains as reliable as ever. 2010 Torbreck Woodcutter's Barossa Valley Semillon ($18, 14%): Dave Powell's esteemed Barossa label again delivers a great value in white wines. Riper and more distinguished by peach flavors than your average Semillon, this gains nuance from bay leaf, hay and brown sugar accents, with a faint sweetness that makes it more plush than Riesling and more exotic than Pinot Gris. 2011 Franz Etz Niederosterreich Gruner Veltliner Austria ($14/liter, 12.5%): Ripe 2011 was one of those years that favored the Liter Lords - and this version from the Kamptal house of Etz, one of the most solid on the market, is packed with ripe tree fruit flavors, fennel seed and a lime-peel kick. The extra flesh is a selling point to both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay partisans - not that Gruner's versatility needs another discussion. (Importer: Winemonger) 2009 Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil Valdeorras Mencia ($18, 13%): Valdeorras, on the banks of the Sil River, is like neighboring Ribeira Sacra, a sweet spot for the spicy Mencia grape. And ambitious Rodriguez, who works across Spain using biodynamic methods and head-trained vines, has bottled a savory, unoaked example that far outpaces its price. Leave it to northern Spain to bridge the gap between ample fruit and a savory intrigue. Its smoky, mineral side adds depth to paprika and bright red currant, offering the perfect foil for a hearty winter dish. (Importer: Vintus) Jon Bonn� is The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. Find more of his coverage at sfgate.com/ wine. E-mail: jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com Twitter: @jbonne -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 12 months

[wine] West Coast Bubbles

by Jim L. Ellingson

11/27/12 The best of West Coast sparkling wine - SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/wineselections/article/The-best-of-West-Coast-sparkling… 1/2 The best of West Coast sparkling wine By Jon Bonn� Updated 12:36 p.m., Monday, November 26, 2012 House styles among the U.S. makers of fine sparkling wine are getting more entrenched. That's a good thing, or at least it can be. Producers like Roederer Estate and Domaine Chandon are delivering an extraordinary value and, of course, Schramsberg remains an American classic. Our top picks reflect the best efforts for value - wines that featured quality fruit and finesse in their texture, an often overlooked aspect to sparkling wine. Where some producers are faltering, it seems, is in the final dose of sugar added to balance the wine. There has been a lobbying effort to justify slightly off-dry wines, which absolutely have their place. But if brut wines define the category, some are witnessing the phantom creep of sugar (also in Champagne, actually). It's the Chardonnay-ing of sparkling wine. While there's no shortage of sugary, bubbly things on the market - sparkling Moscato, anyone? - the versatility of brut sparkling wine comes from its crispness, not its sweetness. It's no coincidence that it's the perfect holiday wine. One footnote: Don't be surprised to see lots of sparkling wines from 2010 and 2011 appear from names who don't usually traffic in fizzy stuff. One side product of the cold vintages was a bump in bubbly production, finding a benevolent use for underripe fruit. That may prove to be a silver lining, although I also encountered plenty of small labels marketing bubbles at $50 or more - at which point you could be happily ensconced in good Champagne. NV Roederer Estate Brut Ros� Anderson Valley Sparkling ($28, 12% alcohol): Roederer's Mendocino outpost is as on point as ever with its Pinot-dominant blend and significant use of older reserve wine. That added depth elevates it. Fresh aromas of mint leaf, sandalwood and huckleberry, plus bright mineral, green apple and fresh tangerine. Remarkable nuance, finessed texture and density. Showing the best nature of American sparkling. 2009 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs North Coast Sparkling ($39, 12.7%): Schramsberg's whole lineup is strong right now, but its original all-Chardonnay effort particularly stands out. Lavish and toasty, with brioche, bay leaf, river stones and lemon oil. A yeasty richness defines it. The Mirabelle Brut ($25, 12.8%) has an intensity and yogurt-like tang that's perfect for an aperitif. NV Scharffenberger Brut Excellence Mendocino Sparkling ($20, 12%): Still one of the best deals in American bubbles, this shows a bit more Chardonnay fruit: fresh cream, flinty mineral, puff pastry and ripe pear matched by pecan and clover honey. Polished and opulent. Still a secret weapon on the supermarket shelf. 2008 Argyle Brut Willamette Valley Sparkling ($27, 13%): Argyle seems to have regained a surer hand in its latest releases. Warm apple, tangy lemon, white peach, thyme and toasted bread all contribute to a sense of balance and refinement in a fine Oregon vintage. Coincidentally, the new 2002 release of its Extended Tirage Brut ($70, 12.5%), also marks a great year up north, though its figgy flavors tilt sweet. NV Domaine Chandon Brut Classic California Sparkling ($22, 13%): Chandon's mainline effort is genteel, driven by flavors of pear, cassia, dried apricot and a beeswax aspect. It's texturally rich, but still sharp-edged, with citrus and mineral accents. If you prefer to step up, Chandon's Etoile Brut ($40, 13%) shows both malic pop and brown-sugar softness. 2007 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Sonoma Sparkling ($28, 12.9%): This American offshoot of Freixenet gives its Chardonnay-based wine more than three years aging on the lees. Yet it's peppy and beautifully expressive, with a green-apple kick and a salty aspect to the flavors. Breadcrumb, fig and well-modulated (13 g/l) sweetness that seems more restrained than in wines like the Blanc de Noirs ($20, 12.2%). 2005 Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley Sparkling ($65, 12.5%): Mumm's top-level cuvee shows a classy side in this abundant vintage. Solid oak presence and aggressive bubbles appear first, but the equal balance of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay gives it both a stoic side and an opulence. Dry, toasty aromas line up with Anjou pear, graham cracker and fig flavors. NV J Vineyards Brut Ros� Russian River Valley Sparkling ($38, 12.5%): J's pink wine makes the most of Sonoma Pinot Noir, with flavors of green pear and ripe currant matched by deep creaminess, accented by pencil shavings and wet roses. It's built for noholds-barred decadence; think crab in cream sauce.11/27/12 The best of West Coast sparkling wine - SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/wineselections/article/The-best-of-West-Coast-sparkling… 2/2 Panelists: Jon Bonn�, Chronicle wine editor; Tess Bryant, manager, Arlequin Wine Merchant. Ads by Yahoo! � 2012 Hearst Communications Inc. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

13 years

[wine] A perfect holiday gift for Burgundy geeks

by Russell McCandless

Dear friends, Hard-core Burgundy fans may already have figured out a way to get their hands on a copy of Jasper Morris definitive 2010 book Inside Burgundy, although it hasnt been published in the U.S. The Cote de Beaune portion of the book has just become available for download to your iPad for 15 UK pounds, with a free iPad download of Mr. Morris 2012-13 annual report also available details below. According to the publishers, the remainder of the book will be coming out as an iPad download in the future. Maybe I need to leave the dark side and start migrating over to Apple devices. Happy holidays, Russ _____ From: Berry Bros. & Rudd [mailto:bbr@berrys.bbr-offer.com] Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 4:40 AM To: russellmccandless(a)frontiernet.net Subject: Inside Burgundy - The Interactive eBook Berry Bros. & Rudd <http://cdn.bbr.com/images/email/2011/template/logo.jpg> <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI3> www.bbr.com <mailto:bbr@bbr.com> bbr(a)bbr.com 0800 280 2440 <http://cdn.bbr.com/images/email/2011/template/button_phone.jpg> <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI4> My Account <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI5> <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI6> Dear Mr McCandless, I am delighted to announce that Jasper Morris MW's award-winning, classic volume 'Inside Burgundy' is now available as a series of beautifully designed, interactive, Multi-Touch eBooks for the iPad and iPad Mini. <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI7> Inside Burgundy: The Côte de Beaune is the first volume to be released, available for £14.99 on the Apple iBookStore. It is accompanied by the first edition of an innovative new Annual Report on Burgundy by Jasper Morris. <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI8#report> The 2012/13 Annual Report is downloadable for free. The iPad's light weight and portability make the interactive eBook edition of Inside Burgundy an invaluable companion on visits to the region. In addition to the full text and stunning maps, the eBooks have video insights into Burgundy with Jasper, and feature hundreds of stunning colour photographs. If you have an iPad, these stunning eBooks are must-have companions to the hard copy of Inside Burgundy. Regards, Simon Berry, Chairman <http://cdn.bbr.com/images/email/2011/staff/simonberry_signature.gif> Simon Berry Chairman <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlI9> Read More Simon Berry <http://cdn.bbr.com/images/email/2011/staff/simonberry.jpg> Simon Berry Chairman <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlIa> UPDATE EMAIL PREFERENCES | <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/re?l=5uqnhzI1orr7wlIb> TERMS AND CONDITIONS | <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/public/unsubscribe.jsp?gid=353324351&uid=367459 0149&mid=353962871&sig=IDNNOFIBGDNEMIGK> UNSUBSCRIBE Registered company 05492886. BB&R Limited, trading as Berry Bros. & Rudd, 3 St James's Street, London, SW1A 1EG. All rights reserved. You must be 18 or over to order. Calls may be recorded. # <http://cdn.bbr.com/images/email/2011/footer_page_curl.jpg> <http://berrys.bbr-offer.com/tr/p.gif?uid=3674590149&mid=353962871&msd=13539 26391630>

13 years

[wine] For Champagne and/or geography geeks

by Russell McCandless

Dear friends, After searching French auctions for quite some time, Gary Westby of K&L Wines in San Francisco has recently acquired a set of the very rare 1944 Larmat maps of Champagne's vineyards. Historically the champenois have been fairly secretive about the exact location of individual vineyards - especially so by comparison to, for example, Burgundy. The maps are posted as full-color pdf files on K&L's blog (blog.klwines.com) and, if you have or can arrange the capability to print very large sheets of paper, may be printed out for display. If you've ever wondered about the precise location and boundaries of the Clos des Goisses or les Chetillons, now you can look it up! Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, and don't forget to enjoy a glass of bubbly with friends and family :-) Russ and Sue

13 years

[wine] Changing Colors - not so fast.

by Jim L. Ellingson

October 18, 2012 Leaves Go Red, but You Needn.t By ERIC ASIMOV DRINK seasonally. It.s a fundamental precept, and it makes as much sense intuitively as dressing seasonally or carrying an umbrella on a cloudy day. I believe in it. Yet too often, it.s a command uttered without thinking, and so it lands without meaning. The overly simple translation of .drink seasonally. generally focuses on color. With the warmer weather of spring, out come the whites. Summer is ros� season; you can.t miss the retail displays. When the leaves begin to turn and the temperature calls for long sleeves, we stow the whites and ros�s in favor of reds. It.s easy but vacuous logic. Color is not the most significant factor in drinking seasonally. It.s texture and weight. Just as you choose lighter clothing in hot weather and heavier layers in the cold, so, too, do we gravitate toward more delicate wines in summer and sturdier bottles in winter. Yet even this way of thinking is too simplistic. Our hot-weather selves still crave a thick grilled steak as much as a seafood salad on the deck. And no matter how bundled up we are in winter, we still enjoy raw oysters as much as hearty stews. Mood and company also dictate what we eat and drink, so while seasonality certainly influences thinking, it.s only one of many factors in choosing a wine. Sure, more reds will find their way onto my table in the fall, not because they are red but because they tend as a group to be more stout than whites. Still, I save a significant place for more-robust whites; a full-bodied Vouvray, say, rather than an ethereal Mosel kabinett. Note that this is not a seasonal paradigm shift, rather a pivot in orientation. Nights grow longer and days shorter, but like reds and whites, we still have both. Which leads me to my bully pulpit for ros�. No wine is more a victim of seasonal affective drinking disorder than ros�. We embrace it in summer and otherwise ignore it. Yet certain ros�s (ambitious, weightier, more voluminous examples like those of Iroul�guy, made of sturdy grapes like tannat and cabernet franc) can hold their own year-round. I.m not saying ros�s should be frequent companions in the cold months, but they should not be dismissed. Thinking seasonally, I.ve picked 20 great fall wines (listed in no particular order), all at that magical price of $20, where the greatest values reside. I.m not saying a $20 wine is always a better value than a $17 bottle. The best quality-to-price ratio is found in the range of $15 to $25. But so many wines fall into that category that I arbitrarily picked the $20 midpoint. Plus, 20 for $20 is a nifty shorthand, no? By the way, I recognize that $20 is not cheap. Many people find it exorbitant, particularly if, like me, you enjoy wine practically every night with your meal. Who wouldn.t prefer spending only $10? Nonetheless, the general difference in quality and expression between what you can find in $10 and $20 wines is considerable, if not exponential. Is it worth the extra cost? I wouldn.t presume to dictate anybody.s spending priorities. I will say only that if your budget generally allows only $10 a bottle, treat yourself once in a while to a $20 wine like those on this list and see if you can.t tell the difference. Wines to Get You Through Fall With Money Left for Holiday Shopping 1. Ravent�s I Blanc Cava de Nit Catalonia 2009 Spain produces an ocean of cheap cava, the sparkling wine guzzled throughout the country. Much of it is forgettable, but this pale ros� (make that rosato) is elegant, nuanced and fresh, with balanced, persistent flavors. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.) 2. Andr� et Mireille Tissot Cr�mant du Jura Extra Brut NV Stephane Tissot, who makes the wines that bear his parents. names, is one of the most interesting and experimental producers in the Jura. But this is no oddball or fringe sparkler; it.s simply delicious and a great deal. It.s made largely of chardonnay and pinot noir, like a Champagne, with some trousseau and poulsard thrown in to provide a bit of Jura identity. With flavors of nuts, minerals and flowers, it.s dry, refined and lip-smacking. (A Camille Riviere Selection/Fruit of the Vines, New York) 3. Christ Wiener Gemischter Satz 2011 Vienna is the only great metropolis with commercial vineyards within its city limits. Gemischter satz wines are historically blends of grapes that are grown and fermented together and served in heurigen, informal little bars where wine estates served their own produce. The gemischter satz tradition was dying until a few committed producers revived it in the last decade and began to sell the wines commercially. This beautiful wine is on the delicate side, just right for smoked fish or other light seafood dishes, yet it feels rich and round on the palate. (Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, Conn.) 4. Jean Ginglinger Alsace Riesling Cuv�e Bihl 2009 The body craves riesling year-round, and if a delicate Mosel kabinett is the perfect spring wine, richer rieslings from Alsace can.t be beat in the fall. Even in a ripe vintage like 2009, this peachy, rich riesling is nonetheless earthy and dry with tantalizing mineral flavors. Choucroute garni, please. (Wineberry America, New York) 5. Champalou Vouvray 2010 I love Vouvray, Savenni�res and all the chenin blanc wines of the Loire Valley. Is there any grape with a texture as mesmerizing and seductive as chenin blanc? The best wines of Vouvray tease as they coat and envelop the tongue, almost thick yet lively and tense as well. This is dry and rounded, but delicate, too . the neat trick of chenin blanc . with honeysuckle, citrus and mineral flavors. Delicious. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.) 6. Domaine de Montbourgeau L.�toile 2008 Another great deal from the Jura, this is largely chardonnay with perhaps a little savagnin thrown in. Nicole D�riaux of Montbourgeau, from the L.�toile appellation, is one of my favorite Jura producers. Usually I choose her savagnin, made in the sous-voile style, under the veil of a sherry-style yeast, which gives the wines nutty, fino-like flavors. The chardonnay is tangy, dry and persistent. It has the twang of sous-voile, and though less severe than the savagnin, it still suggests the mystery and depth of the best Jura cuv�es. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York) 7. Qup� Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay Bien Nacido .Y. Block 2010 Bob Lindquist.s real passion is Rh�ne grapes; he makes chardonnay to pay the bills, but he does a superb job. This is exemplary California chardonnay, with a detectable sheen of new oak, but the wine under the oak is packed with mineral goodness, which makes it highly enjoyable. 8. Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Valle Isarco Kerner 2011 According to .Wine Grapes,. an extraordinary new book from Jancis Robinson et al, the kerner grape, a cross between riesling and schiava grossa, was named after a 19th century doctor who wrote drinking songs. If that.s not enough to recommend it, this rich, ripe, persistently herbal and refreshing wine will do the rest. From a winery housed in an ancient monastery in Alto Adige, and just one of many treasures from the mountain vineyards of northern Italy. (Abbazia di Novacella U.S.A., Sausalito, Calif.) 9. Bebame El Dorado County Red 2011 A wonderfully fresh, deliciously gulpable wine from Eldorado County in the Sierra Foothills. It.s made mostly of cabernet franc, with a little gamay noir, and is lively and bright, with an herbal streak woven into the red fruit flavors. It.s low in alcohol, an almost unheard-of 12 percent for California, yet does not sacrifice structure. 10. Benanti Etna Rosso di Verzella 2009 I.m fascinated with the wines of Mount Etna, grown in the foothills of a highly active volcano, where belching steam and flowing lava are regular features. Nerello mascalese, the main red grape of Etna, seems to harness that energy, brimming with flavors of bitter cherries and stony earth. This is fresh and lightly textured yet rich and persistent, rough and rustic yet charming and expressive. (Tradizione Imports, New York) 11. Front�n de Oro Gran Canaria Tinto 2010 As exotic as Mount Etna may be for growing grapes, the Canary Islands are even more so. This archipelago is a region of Spain, but geologically and geographically it is part of Africa, just 60 miles off the southwest coast of Morocco. Gran Canaria is at the heart of the chain, warm but mountainous. This lovely, fresh red is made largely from the list�n negro grape, and is both lively enough to gulp down and complex enough to ponder. (A Jos� Pastor Selection/Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, Calif.) 12. Paumanok North Fork of Long Island Festival Red 2010 This is one brash Bordeaux blend from a very good Long Island producer. Eighty-four percent of the blend is split evenly between cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with 12 percent cabernet franc and 4 percent petit verdot, yet it.s the cabernet franc that grabs the attention with a strong herbal vein. Juicy and joyous, and topped with a screw cap. 13. Rainoldi Valtellina Superiore Sassella 2008 I.ve always liked the wines of Valtellina, but nowadays many producers seem to be really hitting their stride. This mountainous region in northern Lombardy is an excellent nebbiolo alternative to Barolo and Barbaresco, generally for a lot less money. Rainoldi makes gorgeous wines like this one from the Sassella zone, fine, balanced and beautifully aromatic. (Michael Skurnik Wines) 14. Se�or�o de P. Peci�a Rioja Crianza 2005 Such a pleasure when the producer ages the wine for you! This crianza is already seven years old and just right for drinking. In the old Rioja tradition, it tells the story of red raspberry fruit merging blissfully with the vanilla flavors of American oak. Aromas explode from the glass, yet the wine is mellow and fine. (A Jos� Pastor Selection/Vinos & Gourmet) 15. Clos de la Roilette Fleurie 2011 The wines of Fleurie, one of the 10 leading crus of Beaujolais, are habitually described as light, pretty, feminine and flowery. Perhaps, but in my experience the best Fleuries, like Alain Coudert.s Clos de la Roillette, are better described as structured and mineral. Nothing dainty about the 2011. It.s dense and a little tannic, smoky and spicy with aromas of licorice and granite. Superb, but consider decanting when young. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) 16. Domaine Ilarria Iroul�guy 2009 I.m crazy about the wines of Domaine Ilarria from Iroul�guy, in the Basque Pyrenees as far southwest in France as you can go. It.s ros� is great, and this red, made of tannat, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, is superb. It.s tannic with deep red fruit, spice and iron flavors. Drink now or age, but it.s hard to find, so grab any and all. (A Thomas Calder Selection/Moonlight Wine, New York) 17. Domaine de Terrebrune Vin de Pays du Mont Caume Terre d.Ombre 2009 This very good Bandol producer also makes a cuv�e from vines of mourv�dre, grenache and cinsault that it considers too young for the Bandol. It.s called Terre d.Ombre, and it has an herbal, savage quality that belies the image of sunny Provence. A hearty wine for hearty stews. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) 18. Domaine de Ferrand C�tes du Rh�ne La Ferrande 2010 An anomaly: a C�tes du Rh�ne from the southern part of the Rh�ne Valley yet 100 percent syrah, as if from the northern Rh�ne. It.s rich yet focused and fresh . typical for the 2010 vintage, with black olive flavors yet fruitier than a northern Rh�ne wine. Imported in small quantities. (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa.) 19. Di Filippo Montefalco Rosso 2009 Big and tannic, rich and robust, fruity yet well structured with a pleasant musk. If this Umbrian rosso doesn.t achieve quite the power of a sagrantino di Montefalco, its big brother, it.s still plenty sizable for stews and roasts. (A.I. Selections, New York) 20. Mastrojanni Rosso di Montalcino 2010 Sangiovese is a grape that touches me deep inside. Good Sangiovese wines, particularly from the Chianti or Montalcino regions, offer the sort of purity, honesty and authenticity that I find moving compared to the tricked-up confections that some producers seem to favor. This Rosso di Montalcino from Mastrojanni is indeed pure and honest, tannic yet approachable with bright cherry flavors that really could come from nowhere but the heart of Tuscany. (Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, N.Y.) This article has been revised to reflect the following correction: Correction: October 19, 2012 An earlier version of this article contained a photograph displaying an incorrect vintage of wine. The correct vintage is Domaine Ilarria Iroul�guy 2009, not Domaine Ilarria Iroul�guy Cuv�e Bixintxo 2009. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

13 years, 1 month

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