For those of you not on Judgenet,
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JudgeNet - the beer judge digest [mailto:judge@synchro.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 12:02 AM
> To: Digest Recipients
> Subject: Digest for the period 11/27/01 - 11/28/01
>
>
> Table of contents
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> BJCP website (Ed Westemeier)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: Ed Westemeier Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 09:13:59 -0500
> Subject: BJCP website
>
>
> Just as general information, the BJCP website has been
> completely overhauled.
> The intention was to make it a bit easier for the first-time visitor
> to navigate, but the major item for most of us is that at long last,
> we now have an HTML version of the style guidelines available.
>
> So if you just want to check a style definition, but don't want to
> bother downloading the whole thing, you can go to
> http://www.bjcp.org/style-index.html and click on a category. Of
> course, the full style guidelines are still there for downloading in
> a number of different formats.
>
> As always, any suggestions for improvements to the website
> are always welcome.
>
> --
> Ed Westemeier --- hopfen(a)malz.com
> Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalt's
>
Just my 2¢ worth.
I was wondering where everyone was. It had become suspiciously quiet lately so I thought and thought. Hopefully Will is proud of the thread he started; thanks Will. Also, it seems likely that we all will take a good hard look at our SS tanks, vessels, tubes, etc and make sure they are "clean but dull." I know, I checked mine out last evening as the snow arrived.
The real subject of this message is Friday. You know the location, the time and the function right? What!!!
Go to the CSPS hall
Arrive this Friday around 6:00
Bring some beer
Bring some food
Bring some door prizes
Bring your appetite
The club will serve a keg of "Big Butt-O-Honey Porter." In case you are wondering, the beverage was produced with the club kit, doubled in size, and the adjunct was about 3.5 lbs of commercial honey added at the end of the boil. The beverage has a nice honey-chocolate flavor and the O.G. was about 16 Brix.
Not much extra time to add wit - just bring it along and don't be dim.
See you Friday.
Rick Oftel
Actually,
Last call! Judging for Milds Club-Only competition tomorrow (Tues), Nov.
27. My house. 7pm. Bring a mild, or bring your tastebuds!
Al Boyce
3208 Edgewood Ave So
St. Louis Park, MN. 55426
(952) 927-8968
>From Hwy 100...
Take Hwy 7 West
Wooddale Ave North (right)
Cross Lake St - Wooddale becomes Dakota
33rd St West (left)
Edgewood Ave North (right)
White house with green trim on left
3 houses back from 32nd Street.
See ya!
As I watch the snow accumulate outside, I realize that winter is at last
upon us, and perhaps now is a good time for beer that warms the soul and
dulls the senses.
On Dec 3, I'm putting on the last keg of Old LS Barleywine. If it makes
it to the weekend, I'll be surprised.
Cheers!
ps. Of course, if you're out that way, why not stop in for some Winter
Warmer at Sherlock's? The re-coopered the barrels this year!
David Berg
President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild
Head Brewer, Water Tower Brewing Company
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Oh this gets worse! How does one pacify SS? Simple, give it a six pack of
Summit Winter Warmer! (which is what I'm drinking now) I hope this explains
everything.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher Hadden [mailto:chadden@contecrayon.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 8:57 PM
> To: mba(a)thebarn.com
> Subject: RE: Re-Passifying Stainless Steel
>
>
> Oh, I guess all I need to do is read the other 50 messages in my
> inbox and I'll know ALL there is about pacifying SS! Sweet!
>
> Chris
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-mba(a)thebarn.com [mailto:owner-mba@thebarn.com]On Behalf Of
> > Christopher Hadden
> > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 8:53 PM
> > To: mba(a)thebarn.com
> > Subject: RE: Re-Passifying Stainless Steel
> >
> >
> > Sorry if this is an elementary question but what does "pacifying" SS do?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Christopher Hadden
> > chadden(a)aboutmead.com
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-mba(a)thebarn.com [mailto:owner-mba@thebarn.com]On Behalf Of
> > > David H Berg
> > > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 11:00 AM
> > > To: brew987(a)yahoo.com
> > > Cc: mba(a)thebarn.com
> > > Subject: Re: Re-Passifying Stainless Steel
> > >
> > >
> > > Your need to use Nitric acid to pacify stainless--phosphoric won't cut
> > > it.
> > >
> > > On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 08:30:30 -0800 (PST) Will Holway
> <brew987(a)yahoo.com>
> > > writes:
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I think I saw some postings on this subject before. It
> > > > has recently come to my attention that my method for
> > > > cleaning up my 1/2 barrell kegs (using the 3M green
> > > > scrubby pads) actually takes off some of the SS
> > > > protective coating. I am curious if I can re-passify
> > > > teh SS by using phosphoric acid. Does anyone know the
> > > > "recipe" for doing this? I have not noticed any off
> > > > flavors, or oxidation as of yet, but was curious of
> > > > others' opinions of this etc., and if it is a
> > > > reasonable course of action to pursue ...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > WH
> > > > WindRiver Brewing
> >
Your need to use Nitric acid to pacify stainless--phosphoric won't cut
it.
On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 08:30:30 -0800 (PST) Will Holway <brew987(a)yahoo.com>
writes:
> Hi,
>
> I think I saw some postings on this subject before. It
> has recently come to my attention that my method for
> cleaning up my 1/2 barrell kegs (using the 3M green
> scrubby pads) actually takes off some of the SS
> protective coating. I am curious if I can re-passify
> teh SS by using phosphoric acid. Does anyone know the
> "recipe" for doing this? I have not noticed any off
> flavors, or oxidation as of yet, but was curious of
> others' opinions of this etc., and if it is a
> reasonable course of action to pursue ...
>
> Thanks,
> WH
> WindRiver Brewing
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
> $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
I've never used citric acid, but for nitric you wash it with the nitric
and let it air dry (ie, do not rinse).
By the way, the reason you need to passivate stainless is so it remains
stainless--without the protective coat it will stain and corrode
On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:27:49 -0800 (PST) Will Holway <brew987(a)yahoo.com>
writes:
> I actually have some citric acid in powdered form.
> what is the method? Just let it soak overnight or
> something? Do I need to first try to clean the
> stainless steel as best I can then let it soak?
>
> Thanks,
> WH
> --- "Crist, Jonathan" <cristj(a)bsci.com> wrote:
> > I agree with Dave - you typically need the nitric
> > acid
> > You probably can't find it as a homebrewer but Acid
> > #5 from Five Star
> > Chemicals works very well. It is a blend of nitric
> > acid, phosphoric acid and
> > other acids to help clean and passivate the surface.
> >
> > Another method to passivate stainless steel is with
> > citric acid. This is
> > safer and sometimes faster than nitric acid.
> > Solutions with 4 to 10% citric
> > acid (by weight) will safely remove the iron oxide
> > and free iron and leave a
> > chrome oxide rich (passivated) surface.
> >
> > Jonathan Crist
> >
> > > ----------
> > > From: David H Berg[SMTP:bergbrew@juno.com]
> > > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 10:59 AM
> > > To: brew987(a)yahoo.com
> > > Cc: mba(a)thebarn.com
> > > Subject: Re: Re-Passifying Stainless Steel
> > >
> > > Your need to use Nitric acid to pacify
> > stainless--phosphoric won't cut
> > > it.
> > >
> > > On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 08:30:30 -0800 (PST) Will
> > Holway <brew987(a)yahoo.com>
> > > writes:
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I think I saw some postings on this subject
> > before. It
> > > > has recently come to my attention that my method
> > for
> > > > cleaning up my 1/2 barrell kegs (using the 3M
> > green
> > > > scrubby pads) actually takes off some of the SS
> > > > protective coating. I am curious if I can
> > re-passify
> > > > teh SS by using phosphoric acid. Does anyone
> > know the
> > > > "recipe" for doing this? I have not noticed any
> > off
> > > > flavors, or oxidation as of yet, but was curious
> > of
> > > > others' opinions of this etc., and if it is a
> > > > reasonable course of action to pursue ...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > WH
> > > > WindRiver Brewing
> > > >
> > > >
> > __________________________________________________
> > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site
> > hosting, just
> > > > $8.95/month.
> > > > http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
> > >
> > >
> >
> ________________________________________________________________
> > > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for
> > less!
> > > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> > > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
> > >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
> $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
I'm also a metallurgist and we have gone overboard on passivation.
The key to all of this is a clean surface. You need to clean the surface to
remove all the organic residue and metallic residue on the surface. This
would be true for citric or nitric acid passivation, or just letting the
atmospheric oxygen do it's job. You need a clean surface. If you don't have
rust, stay with your method.
If you have rust you need to passivate the surface to remove the free iron
that caused the rust. You can passivate with either a nitric acid solution
or a citric acid solution, but the surface needs to be clean.
A solution with 4-10% by weight citric acid should only need to be in
contact with the cleaned surface for 30 minutes at room temperature to
passivate. This is about the same time for a warm nitric acid solution.
Either solution will remove iron oxide and free iron from the surface. Allow
the surface to air dry after the acid rinse.
> ----------
> From: Steve Piatz[SMTP:piatz@cray.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 2:09 PM
> To: bergbrew(a)juno.com
> Cc: brew987(a)yahoo.com; mba(a)thebarn.com
> Subject: Re: Re-Passifying Stainless Steel
>
> Here is a message from the HBD May 15, 2000 from John Palmer who is a
> metallurgist. I think we may be going overboard in Will's kegs here.
> Since I don't brew daily I can just get by with letting atmospheric
> oxygen do the job for me when I need to scrub the kettle.
>
>
> + Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 08:33:14 -0700
> + From: "John Palmer" <jjpalmer(a)gte.net>
> + Subject: Stainless passivation
> +
> + Passivating Stainless Steel
> + A situation that often comes up is, "Hey, my stainless steel is
> + rusting! Why? What can I do to fix it?"
> +
> + Stainless steel is stainless because of the protective chromium oxides
> + on the surface. If those oxides are removed by scouring, or by
> + reaction with bleach, then the iron in the steel is exposed and can be
> + rusted. Stainless steel is also vulnerable to contamination by plain
> + carbon steel, the kind found in tools, food cans, and steel wool. This
> + non-stainless steel tends to rub off on the surface (due to
> + iron-to-iron affinity), and readily rusts. Once rust has breached the
> + chromium oxides, the iron in the stainless steel can also rust. Fixing
> + this condition calls for re-passivation.
> +
> + Passivating stainless steel is normally accomplished in industry by
> + dipping the part in a bath of nitric acid. Nitric acid dissolves any
> + free iron or other contaminants from the surface, which cleans the
> + metal, and it re-oxidizes the chromium; all in about 20 minutes. But
> + you don't need a nitric acid bath to passivate. The key is to clean
> + the stainless steel to bare metal. Once the metal is clean (and dry),
> + the oxygen in the atmosphere will form the protective chromium oxides.
> + The steel will be every bit as passivated as that which was dipped in
> + acid. The only catch is that it takes longer-- about a week or two.
> +
> + To passivate stainless steel at home without using a nitric acid bath,
> + you need to clean the surface of all dirt, oils and oxides. The best
> + way to do this is to use an oxalic acid based cleanser like Bar
> + Keepers Friend, RevereWare Cleanser, or Kleen King, and a non-metallic
> + green scrubby pad. Don't use steel wool, or any metal pad, even
> + stainless steel, because this will actually promote rust. Scour the
> + surface thoroughly and then rinse and dry it with a towel. Leave it
> + alone for a week or two and it will re-passivate itself. You should
> + not have to do this procedure more than once, but it can be repeated
> + as often as necessary.
> +
> + John Palmer
> + www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/
>
>
>
>
> David H Berg writes:
> >
> > I've never used citric acid, but for nitric you wash it with the nitric
> > and let it air dry (ie, do not rinse).
> >
> > By the way, the reason you need to passivate stainless is so it remains
> > stainless--without the protective coat it will stain and corrode
> >
> > On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:27:49 -0800 (PST) Will Holway <brew987(a)yahoo.com>
> > writes:
> > > I actually have some citric acid in powdered form.
> > > what is the method? Just let it soak overnight or
> > > something? Do I need to first try to clean the
> > > stainless steel as best I can then let it soak?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > WH
>
>
> --
> Steve Piatz piatz(a)cray.com
> Cray Inc. 651-605-9049
> 1340 Mendota Heights Road
> Mendota Heights, MN 55120
>
