From James Laube's blog in Wine Spectator on line:
James Laube Unfined
A Chardonnay Shocker from the California State Fair
Posted: 12:25 PM ET, June 27, 2007
During yesterday?s blind tasting in Napa, amid a flight of sumptuous
2005 Sonoma Coast Chardonnays from the likes of Paul Hobbs and
Chasseur, came a news flash across my computer screen.
Glad I was sitting down.
Two-Buck Chuck, less known by its formal name of Charles F. Shaw, was
judged the best Chardonnay from California at the California State
Fair Commercial Wine Competition, held in Sacramento. The 2005
Two-Buck, with a California appellation, goes for $1.99 in California
and a dollar more elsewhere. It's only sold at Trader Joe's.
I know what you?re thinking because I?m thinking the same thing. How
can this be? What?s next? Forrest Gump for president? Aliens plan to
spring Paris Hilton from the joint? The moon really is a big wedge of
green cheese?
Since the state fair uses wine professionals as judges and the wines
are tasted blind, the results stand on their own. Some 270 Chardonnays
from 2005 were evaluated, so Two-Buck had plenty of competition.
Still, I?m wondering if this bottling of Two-Buck is really that good.
Or whether, more likely, that this is a result of a clean, fruity,
non-oaked Chardonnay that has enough appeal to win the approval of a
panel of judges?
There?s no question that for many critics, too many Chardonnays are
too oaky and there are questions about whether the wines are true to
their appellations. Or whether, in the extreme, all Chardonnays taste
alike, in which case it?s conceivable that Two-Buck could emerge a
winner.
If you?re wondering why this matters, well, here?s why. Think what you
may about a $1.99 wine, but Two-Buck is impacting the market. It has
sold 300 million bottles in five years and it continues to put
downward pressure on wine prices, and at the end of the day, that?s
great news for wine drinkers.
Think it?s not popular? Check out a Trader Joe?s this weekend and
watch as people wheel out shopping carts loaded with cases.
James Laube Unfined
No Passing the Buck: Here's My Take
Posted: 11:58 AM ET, June 29, 2007
OK, so how good is Two-Buck Chuck Chardonnay, the reigning champion,
and low-price leader of California Chardonnay?
It didn?t take my staff long to buy a bottle from Trader Joe?s (and a
second bottle was sent to my office in Napa) and slip it into
yesterday?s blind tasting of Sonoma Chardonnays (even though Two Buck
carries a California appellation and the appellation was not disclosed
in my tasting).
Well, the wine is certainly good and serviceable. I rated it about the
same as I did last year (when it received an 83-point score). It?s
simple, clean and fruity, with a light mix of citrus and herbal notes,
though not especially varietal. The citrus-herb scent made me think it
might have a dollop of Sauvignon Blanc. The label says 12.5 percent
alcohol. No trace of wood, or oak chips!
The irony, though, is that Two-Buck performed as well as a trio of
Chardonnays that sold for up to $35 a bottle. I?ll spare those
wineries the agony of disclosure until their scores are published in
an upcoming issue of the magazine or on our website.
One more element of intrigue: One of the Two-Buck's labels indicated
it was bottled in Sonoma, while the other was bottled in Napa, so it
would appear that there are at least two different bottlings in the
market. It?s not uncommon for a wine of this volume to be made in
different batches and for it to have multiple bottlings. The winery
wouldn?t comment on the wine?s varietal make-up, or anything else,
except to say that the wine?s owner, Fred Franzia, has bottling
facilities in both counties.
So when you pick up your bottle of Two-Buck Chuck for this weekend?s
blind tasting, make note of where it was bottled.
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