Oregon Pinot Noir Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, October 3, 2008 Oregon Pinot Noir is becoming easier to find, which is fortunate, since the 2006 vintage is exceptional. If you are used to drinking big, plush California Pinot Noir, most Oregon bottlings may seem tart, thin and lacking fruit. In Oregon's cool, more northerly climate, grapes ripen and mature without developing high sugar levels, while still preserving acidity. Oregon's warmer-than-usual weather in 2006 resulted in an abundant harvest of optimally ripened grapes, which produced richer wines with more body and deeper fruit than usual. Winemakers crafted some lovely wines, including these recommendations - a greater-than-average number and quality - from the 73 we tasted. OREGON Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Bridgeview Blue Moon Oregon Pinot Noir ($20) Nose of ripe Bing cherry, roasted blueberry and plum with a touch of spice and orange zest. Intense palate of tart red and some dark fruit, moderate tannins and sweet fruitiness on the long finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Chehalem Reserve Oregon Pinot Noir ($60) Dry forest floor, leaves, red plum, sweet cherry and strawberry tart aromas and flavors. Good structure; may have a bit of greenness that coarsens the tannins but also adds distinction. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Erath Oregon Pinot Noir ($19) Subdued nose of cherry, fall leaves and lifted spice, plus a vegetal note. Delicate, dusky red strawberry, cranberry and cherry flavors tinged with oak. Lean and refined; finishes with moderate acidity. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Torii Mor Oregon Pinot Noir ($29) A riper, oaky style. Baked orange, spice, vanilla and round red and black cherry aromas. Sweet, extracted kirsch-like cherry, some spice and high acidity; finishes with a sharp, tart note. WILLAMETTE VALLEY Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($31) Plum spice cake, pretty strawberry and graham cracker on the subdued but bright nose. Similar flavors plus upfront rich sweet cherry on palate; a little alcoholic heat shows on the finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Anam Cara Cellars Reserve Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir ($45) Lovely earth, blackberry jam, sweet red cherry, plum and slight spice aromas. The earthy barnyard note carries through to a palate that has juicy ripe cherry and a hint of baking spice. Well made. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Anne Amie Winemaker's Selection Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($35) Complete, loamy earth nose with spice and tart red fruit - cranberry, tamarind and sour cherry - which continue on the palate. Balanced, with finely grained tannins on the finish. This is the second release of the Winemaker's Selection. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Antica Terra Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($46) The fruity nose of deep cherry and plum, mocha, oak spice and hit of smoky bacon. Well balanced. Bing cherry, strawberry jam, bright raspberry and orange peel with refined tannins on the elegant finish. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Argyle Reserve Series Nuthouse Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($60) Engaging nose - heady porcini, dark ripe fruit, grapefruit peel, pine needle and underlying savory spice. The lavish, elegant palate has ripe red fruit and sizable, finely grained tannins. Plenty of oak and lingering brown spice on the lengthy finish. Great for the style. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Benton Lane Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($26) Bing cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and mineral with a slight pepper and gamy note. Broad, with fine tannins that almost overshadow the fruit; refinement on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Bergstrom Winery Cumberland Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($45) Huckleberry, plum, bright cherry and tamarind; slightly high-toned with a touch of mint on the more reserved nose. A bolder, ripe style with great fruit. Finishes with tart plum skin and a savory tang. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Brick House Evelyn's Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir ($59) Camphor, raspberry, chocolate-covered cherry, pluot and oak spice on nose. Flavors of earth, soy sauce and dark fruit. Bright acidity cuts though the brown spice. Savory notes on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Broadley Vineyards Claudia's Choice Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($50) Interesting nose of cherry, pomegranate, black pepper, herb and tomato vine. Tart black plum, plum skin, Bing cherry and green herb plus tough but integrated tannins that provide a more durable structure. Fresh acidity, balanced. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Brooks Janus Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($35) Chocolate and warm licorice notes highlight ripe rich dark fruit of plum, blackberry and cherry. Underlying mineral notes. Janus is Brooks' flagship wine, named after the Roman god for beginnings and endings. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Chehalem 3 Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($32) Perfumed with mushroom, forest and cherry, strawberry and cranberry aromas; very nice nose. Substantial tannins and structure with core of delicate fruit. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Coelho Winery of Amity Paciencia Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($35) Cranberry, pomegranate, musk and herb aromas. Aromatic with a weightier dark fruit and dried cherry flavors. Tannins start firmly with grip and some heat on the clean, fresh finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Daedalus Cellars Labyrinth Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Big vanillin with almost a root beer/cream soda note, herb and great spice aromas; nicely extracted ripe fruit. Rhubarb and sour cherry on the fresh, light palate. Slight cinnamon and soft tannins on the finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 De Ponte Cellars Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($38) Sweet nose with barnyard, wood, spiced cherry and darker fruit. Palate supports the aromas; radiant red fruit, Bing cherry, wild strawberry and crunchy mineral with assertive acidity that lingers on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($45) Touch of wet loam, taut mineral, perfumed dark fruit, cherry and herb nose. Plum and blueberry flavors; weight and body are commensurate with the fruit - balanced, generous and grippy tannins. Seamless and well made. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Erath Estate Selection Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($36) Intense nose; concentrated black cherry, strawberry leaf and dry minerally loam with almost molasses notes. Flavors follow aromas plus bright red fruit, and pine and fennel notes. Ripe, pure and clean with edgy acidity, silky tannins and a long finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 The Four Graces Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($42) High-toned, lively nose of Demerara sugar, coconut, raspberry, spice and anise note. Fruit - tending to cassis - is ripe but not overly so. Nice texture and weight. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Lemelson Vineyards Jerome Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($58) Clean bright cherry, juicy dark fruit with toasted sesame seed, loam and soy sauce aromas. This is a deeper style with spice; balanced with good fruit standing up to the firm acid and structure. Some panelists thought it too extracted, but very solid for the style. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Lemelson Vineyards Thea's Selection Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($38) Tart raspberry, plum aromas with a nice hint of damp loam beneath; perfumed strawberry with a mustiness. Bright, straightforward palate with soft, nuanced tannins on finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Maysara Estate Cuvee McMinnville Pinot Noir ($32) Darker ripe sweet fruit, raspberry and a little soy sauce on nose and palate; soft with evident tannins and heat on the finish, though its stated alcohol is 13.9 percent. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Retour Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($65) Earthy cherry, slight mineral and spice with lots of anise and wood on the nose. A deeper, more powerful palate of dark plum fruit, a bit of bergamot and grippy tannins, but there's overall finesse. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Siduri Arbre Vert Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($39) Dark notes, forest floor, mushroom and sandalwood with candied cherry nose. Delicate, high-toned but slightly austere palate that has subtlety and grip. Balanced and seamless, though some might prefer more acidity. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Siduri Muirfield Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($39) More intense palate with wet dirt, hint of musk and greater acidity than its sibling. Bright and forthcoming with cherry, tamarind and berry fruit, plus lots of oak tannin. Bright but a little tightly wound; better with time. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Stoller SV Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($40) Orange blossom, mineral-driven nose with soy, musk and forest floor amid radiant strawberry. Palate's subtle fruit is mildly sweet but seamless, with greater acidity. Cocoa-like tannins provide perfect grip. Balanced. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Stoller JV Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($25) Loam, Bing cherry, cranberry, strawberry and tangerine aromas. Juicy, ripe profile bolstered by a hint of cocoa, spice and bright acidity. Pretty, balanced with soft tannins and a sappy sweet note on the finish. Classic Oregon Pinot Noir that gets extra points for value. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Willamette Valley Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($25) Nice nose of spice, bright sweet cherry, raspberry, lavender and wet loam. Mouthwatering acidity with subtle, integrated berry and rich plum. Refined tannins with plum skin and a touch of alcohol on the finish. SOUTHERN OREGON Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Brandborg Love Puppets Umpqua Valley Pinot Noir ($30) Nose opened up with some air to reveal clear, clean raspberry, cranberry and dry loam underscored with a touch of coffee. Tart, lovely acidity on palate that is lighter-bodied with grip and an edgy finish. A good food wine. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Brandborg Bench Lands Umpqua Valley Pinot Noir ($22) Rich, deep fruit, spice - ripe berry and plum - with earth, dried orange nose. Palate has tart raspberry/warm cherry acidity; very pretty fruit but thins to a slightly stemmy finish. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Chris Deegan, wine director, Nopa. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARSExcellent Rating: TWO STARS Good - Lynne Char Bennett http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/03/WIH9134F5E.DTL This article appeared on page F - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *