Greetings, Bob's out west in the cellar, but he left a voice mail. Menu at Fugaise features fish, tuna, salmon and duck. He suggested fish freindly whites and Pinot Noir. We need to give Joyce an update on the count by Wednesday. Fugaise is at 308 E Hennepin. Best bet are the 4 hr. meters in the lot above Bobino. Fugaise 308 E. Hennepin Ave. Minneapolis, MN 55413 (612) 436-0777 Yes: Joyce Bob Betsy Warren/Ruth Jim/Louise Anyone else would be a guess on my part.... Cheers, Jim Small bite Kathie Jenkins St. Paul Pioneer Press Published: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 Reviewing restaurants is constantly surprising. The places you think will be great often aren't worth the hype, and vice versa. Fugaise (pronounced foo-gays), which debuted last week in Northeast Minneapolis, is in the latter category. Lunch there was better than expected. Chef/co-owner is Don Saunders, who was previously chef at A Rebours in St. Paul. He has kept the menu small and buys top-notch ingredients. There's a simple mixed green salad tossed with wild strawberries, toasted hazelnuts and little bits of creamy brie. The butternut squash soup is enhanced with shaved pecorino and pumpkinseed oil. Wait until you taste the ribbonlike pasta with prosciutto, asparagus and truffle oil . it makes one of the best lunches in the Twin Cities. Even the desserts here . a chocolate tart with pear sorbet and olive-oil cake topped with peach confit and English stilton . are better than most. With such good food in sophisticated but understated surroundings, Fugaise proves moderately priced restaurants don't have to be a bore. Small Bites are first glances . not intended as definitive reviews . of new or changed restaurants. Now open: Fugaise -- elegant but casual French fare , October 6, 2005 "Are we at the right place?" asked my friend as we walked into Fugaise. It's true, the entrance to the new northeast Minneapolis restaurant, little more than a long corridor, doesn't make an ideal first impression. But our trepidation ended once we strolled through a cheerful little bar and into a suave dining room of pale silver-gold tints, a handsome parquet floor, crisp linens, pleasant lighting and thought-provoking paintings by Duluth artist Daren Steneman. The overall effect is a little reminiscent of George Clooney -- elegant, but not intimidating. After cooking at La Belle Vie and Vincent -- and then running the show at A Rebours -- chef-owner Don Saunders is now his own boss, crafting a distinctive, seasonally minded dinner menu of six appetizers ($9 to $12) and a half-dozen entrees ($21 to $32). The food has an air of French formalism, but with a lighter, cleaner spin: mushroom dumplings floating in a clear chicken consomm�, beet-flavored fettuccine with a slim dairy finish, a butter-knife tender rib-eye dressed with earthy hedgehog mushrooms and a ruddy red currant reduction, juicy pork tenderloin over an apple-celeriac pur�e. Desserts ($6 to $7) include a springy olive oil cake with a peach confit and a dastardly dark chocolate tart with a sprightly pear sorbet. One-fourth of the all-French wine list falls in the $30-or-less category. Fugaise, 308 E. Hennepin Av., Minneapolis, 612-436-0777, www.fugaise.com. Lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Brunch 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. Rick Nelson THE CHRONICLE'S WINE SELECTIONS: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Thursday, September 22, 2005 Here are the panel picks from 50 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from 2002 and 2003 tasted for today. ________________________________________ 2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $24 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe nose of black cherry, rosemary, pine and spice; juicy black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla, black pepper and anise flavors; tart cranberry finish; great balance; soft mouthfeel. ________________________________________ 2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $20 Body: Medium Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Lean, elegant style. Nose of cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, cassis, dried leaf and toast; similar flavors plus hint of licorice; bright acidity; wonderful with food. ________________________________________ 2003 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $40 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Subtle nose of cherry, dried cranberry and pencil shavings; ripe black cherry, cassis, raspberry, citrus peel and white pepper flavors; slightly alcoholic; long finish. ________________________________________ 2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Mushroom, black cherry, toasted pine nuts, rose petal and leather aromas; ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum, tobacco and loam flavors; supple tannins; mouthwatering acidity. ________________________________________ 2002 Deerfield Ranch Cohn Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $48 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Smells of vanilla and wild blackberry with hint of toast; similar on palate, plus baking spice, truffle and dark chocolate; rich and seductive; polished tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch RRV Pinot Noir Price: $35 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry and pine; cranberry, dried cherry, citrus, vanilla and toast flavors; round on palate; silky tannins; nice balance. ________________________________________ 2002 Forchini Proprietor's Reserve RRV Pinot Noir Price: $22 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Cherry, herb, pine, soy sauce and oak on nose; flavors of juicy black cherry, cassis, licorice and black pepper; cranberry on finish; young - needs time for tannins to soften. ________________________________________ 2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Herb and rose on nose, though toast and earth dominate; mushroom, soy sauce, black cherry, black tea and tobacco flavors; excellent acidity; long, fresh raspberry finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection RRV Pinot Noir Price: $34 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of Bing cherry, truffle and vanilla with juicy blackberry, black plum, raspberry and licorice flavors with hints of spice; round and deeply flavored; lush tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $60 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Aromas of toasted marshmallow, pie crust, cherry and mushroom; root beer, black cherry, tart plum and vanilla flavors; pert acidity; light coating tannins. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe black cherry nose with hint of baking spice; palate starts with ripe strawberry and cherry pie filling; soft in the mouth until a tannic close. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $28 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of cherry pie, ripe blackberry, boysenberry, tea leaf, earth and baking spice; black cherry and vanilla flavors with touches of citrus and smoked meat; round tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Lost Canyon Saralee's Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $38 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Beautiful nose of black plum, black cherry, raspberry and rose; similar flavors; supple tannins, full, luscious, great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $45 Body: Full Dryness: Dry-semidry Comments: Strawberry compote, cherry, tar and dust aromas; similar flavors with jammy black and red fruit and black pepper; round tannins; hot finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Pinot Noir Price: $54 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Pretty Bing cherry, leather and spice nose with a hint of mint; black cherry, cranberry, mushroom and cherry cola flavors; polished and elegant. Low production. ________________________________________ 2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Mushroom, earth, soy sauce, black cherry and currant nose; supple texture, plush tannins; ripe black plum, cola and spice flavors; mouthwatering acidity. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Russian Hill Tara Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Truffle, toast, herb and wet earth aromas with herb notes; rich, ripe cassis, black cherry, raspberry, black tea and cinnamon flavors; silky tannins; great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Outstanding; the panel favorite. Exotic nose of blackberry, black cherry, herb and toast; boysenberry, raspberry, vanilla and licorice flavors; bright acidity; balanced. ________________________________________ 2003 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $46 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavors; tart acidity; Burgundian style. Low production. ________________________________________ Panelists: Lynne Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, general manager, 2223 Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco. Wines listed are generally available but may not be in all stores. Start with local wine merchants, but also try larger stores and wineries. The Chronicle's Wine Selections: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Here are the panel picks from 50 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from 2002 and 2003 tasted for today. ________________________________________ 2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $24 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe nose of black cherry, rosemary, pine and spice; juicy black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla, black pepper and anise flavors; tart cranberry finish; great balance; soft mouthfeel. ________________________________________ 2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $20 Body: Medium Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Lean, elegant style. Nose of cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, cassis, dried leaf and toast; similar flavors plus hint of licorice; bright acidity; wonderful with food. ________________________________________ 2003 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $40 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Subtle nose of cherry, dried cranberry and pencil shavings; ripe black cherry, cassis, raspberry, citrus peel and white pepper flavors; slightly alcoholic; long finish. ________________________________________ 2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Mushroom, black cherry, toasted pine nuts, rose petal and leather aromas; ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum, tobacco and loam flavors; supple tannins; mouthwatering acidity. ________________________________________ 2002 Deerfield Ranch Cohn Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $48 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Smells of vanilla and wild blackberry with hint of toast; similar on palate, plus baking spice, truffle and dark chocolate; rich and seductive; polished tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch RRV Pinot Noir Price: $35 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry and pine; cranberry, dried cherry, citrus, vanilla and toast flavors; round on palate; silky tannins; nice balance. ________________________________________ 2002 Forchini Proprietor's Reserve RRV Pinot Noir Price: $22 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Cherry, herb, pine, soy sauce and oak on nose; flavors of juicy black cherry, cassis, licorice and black pepper; cranberry on finish; young - needs time for tannins to soften. ________________________________________ 2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Herb and rose on nose, though toast and earth dominate; mushroom, soy sauce, black cherry, black tea and tobacco flavors; excellent acidity; long, fresh raspberry finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection RRV Pinot Noir Price: $34 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of Bing cherry, truffle and vanilla with juicy blackberry, black plum, raspberry and licorice flavors with hints of spice; round and deeply flavored; lush tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $60 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Aromas of toasted marshmallow, pie crust, cherry and mushroom; root beer, black cherry, tart plum and vanilla flavors; pert acidity; light coating tannins. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe black cherry nose with hint of baking spice; palate starts with ripe strawberry and cherry pie filling; soft in the mouth until a tannic close. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $28 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of cherry pie, ripe blackberry, boysenberry, tea leaf, earth and baking spice; black cherry and vanilla flavors with touches of citrus and smoked meat; round tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Lost Canyon Saralee's Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $38 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Beautiful nose of black plum, black cherry, raspberry and rose; similar flavors; supple tannins, full, luscious, great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $45 Body: Full Dryness: Dry-semidry Comments: Strawberry compote, cherry, tar and dust aromas; similar flavors with jammy black and red fruit and black pepper; round tannins; hot finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Pinot Noir Price: $54 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Pretty Bing cherry, leather and spice nose with a hint of mint; black cherry, cranberry, mushroom and cherry cola flavors; polished and elegant. Low production. ________________________________________ 2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Mushroom, earth, soy sauce, black cherry and currant nose; supple texture, plush tannins; ripe black plum, cola and spice flavors; mouthwatering acidity. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Russian Hill Tara Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Truffle, toast, herb and wet earth aromas with herb notes; rich, ripe cassis, black cherry, raspberry, black tea and cinnamon flavors; silky tannins; great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Outstanding; the panel favorite. Exotic nose of blackberry, black cherry, herb and toast; boysenberry, raspberry, vanilla and licorice flavors; bright acidity; balanced. ________________________________________ 2003 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $46 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavors; tart acidity; Burgundian style. Low production. ________________________________________ Panelists: Lynne Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, general manager, 2223 Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco. Wines listed are generally available but may not be in all stores. Start with local wine merchants, but also try larger stores and wineries. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *