September 9, 2009 The Pour Pop Goes the Critic By ERIC ASIMOV WHEN the refined British wine writer Jancis Robinson joined the frenetic Gary Vaynerchuk last fall on his video blog Wine Library TV it was as if Helen Mirren had shown up on an episode of .Dog the Bounty Hunter.. As Mr. Vaynerchuk began shouting his greeting into the camera as if he were hawking cap snafflers at 3 in the morning, the ever game Ms. Robinson could not help but look appalled. But she hung in there, and together they began tasting wine in the informal studio above Wine Library, his family.s wine shop in Springfield, N.J. As they sniffed a 2006 Ridge Geyserville zinfandel, or .took a sniffy-sniff. in Mr. Vaynerchuk.s parlance, Ms. Robinson said she detected the aroma of violets. Mr. Vaynerchuk said it smelled .very candylike.. Ms. Robinson grimaced. .To me, candy is a negative thing,. she said. .Candy is something I get on cheap zinfandel.. .In my mind,. he responded, .candy, you know, depending on the candy, for example, Big League Chew or Nerds, could be tremendous, whereas candy I don.t like, like Bazooka Joe bubble gum, could be a problem.. Gracefully, Ms. Robinson changed the subject. But a significant audience in the wine world loves Mr. Vaynerchuk.s tune. Ms. Robinson and her peers like Robert M. Parker Jr. and Wine Spectator may represent the apogee of the classic wine critic, issuing influential scores and opinions from on high as both arbiters and exemplars of the good life. But Mr. Vaynerchuk.s kid-in-a-candy-store approach may represent the future. Mr. Vaynerchuk, 33, has broken through class barriers in a way that no other critic has been able to, making wine a part of popular culture. He.s appeared on Ellen DeGeneres.s show and Conan O.Brien.s, where, in the guise of educating the host.s palate to wine terms like sweaty, mineral and earthy, he sniffed Mr. O.Brien.s armpit and persuaded him to chew an old sock, lick a rock and eat dirt (topped with shredded cigar tobacco and cherries). .You.re an idiot!. Mr. O.Brien exclaimed. Perhaps so, but Mr. Vaynerchuk now has a million-dollar 10-book contract with HarperStudio that will focus on wine and marketing. And the wine establishment, which initially saw Mr. Vaynerchuk as a retailer with a novelty act, is taking note. In its July issue, Decanter, the leading British wine magazine, anointed him No. 40 in its list of the 50 most powerful and influential people in the world of wine. .His influence is less as a style dictator than as a new media pioneer, showing how things can and will be done,. said Ms. Robinson, who said she had pushed for his inclusion in the Decanter list. Few people had ever heard of Mr. Vaynerchuk in early 2006, when he posted his first episode of Wine Library TV on the Wine Library Web site. Before long his high-volume, hyper-enunciated delivery, sprinkled with bizarre tasting analogies and unlikely stream-of-consciousness departures, had earned him a rabid Internet following, along with ridicule from detractors in the audience. He was called a clown and the Human Infomercial, whose over-the-top style was dumbing down wine. Yet his fan base kept growing. He estimates his audience for each episode of Wine Library TV (he.s just recorded No. 733) at 90,000 people, and he has nearly 900,000 followers on Twitter. The numbers have made Mr. Vaynerchuk not only a wine industry phenomenon, but a social media superstar who.s being held up as a role model for using the tools of e-commerce to succeed in any business. .Gary V. is a one-man social network,. said Paul Mabray, chief strategy officer for VinTank, a wine industry think tank and consultancy. .He has the ability to get other people to believe in his product, and act as a megaphone for his message, and he.s the only wine writer we.ve seen adopted by mass culture, like Ellen and Conan.. His persona is as much about marketing as it is about wine. His first book, due out next month, is an entrepreneur.s self-help guide called .Crush It.. Future books, Mr. Vaynerchuk said, will focus on a combination of wine, marketing and building one.s personal brand. He hopes to extend his marketing reach beyond wine and self-help books. With his younger brother, A. J., Mr. Vaynerchuk has started Vaynermedia, a marketing agency with a small list of high-profile clients like the New York Jets (Mr. Vaynerchuk is a huge fan) and Jalen Rose, a retired N.B.A. player turned commentator. Not surprisingly, the Jets are now among the most Twitter-happy N.F.L. teams. For Mr. Vaynerchuk, it.s been a most unlikely journey. He was born in Belarus and immigrated to New Jersey as a child. His father, Sasha, ran a liquor store, while young Gary honed his entrepreneurial chops, selling baseball cards, he says, and franchising lemonade stands. After graduating from Mount Ida College in Newton, Mass., Mr. Vaynerchuk took over his father.s shop, Shopper.s Discount Liquor, and rechristened it Wine Library, which he has built into what he says is a $60-million-a-year business. Mr. Vaynerchuk might well have remained a successful but anonymous retailer, but in 2006 he initiated his video blog, Wine Library TV. From his first hesitant episodes, all of which are archived on the Wine Library TV Web site, Mr. Vaynerchuk quickly gathered steam, unleashing his frenzied delivery. He began wearing wristbands and calling his program .The Thunder Show a.k.a the Internet.s Most Passionate Wine Program.. He draped his minimalist set with action figures of wrestlers and superheroes, dubbed his audience Vayniacs, and bedecked his spit bucket with decals of his beloved New York Jets. The unlovely ritual of wine tasting, with its swirling and sipping, punctuated with the slurping noise of air sucked through a wine-filled mouth and culminating in a swift discharge into a bucket, is few people.s idea of attractive television. But Mr. Vaynerchuk embraced the unattractive, showing utter disregard for production values. .Many people who I respected were disappointed when I started Wine Library TV,. Mr. Vaynerchuk said in an interview one recent morning. .They thought I was dumbing down wine, but I always knew I was one of the biggest producers of new wine drinkers in the world, and people are realizing it now.. Of course, such extravagant claims are impossible to establish, but Mr. Vaynerchuk.s audience on his Internet bulletin board certainly seems to have a higher percentage of novice wine drinkers than in the forums on either the Parker or Spectator Web sites. While Mr. Vaynerchuk does not yet come close to Mr. Parker or the Spectator in his ability to move the wine market as a whole, his words do sell bottles. In an episode of Wine Library TV in February, Mr. Vaynerchuk raved about a Sonoma Coast pinot noir from Sojourn Cellars, a small producer. .We took 500 e-mails and phone calls in 24 hours,. said Craig Haserot, an owner of Sojourn. .Nothing has put more people on our database and sold more wine than Wine Library TV, and it.s not even close.. Mr. Vaynerchuk.s appeal is rooted in his undermining of the old-guard mantle of authority and detachment that wine critics of older generations like Ms. Robinson spent years trying to achieve. In many reviews, he seems to subvert the established vocabulary for describing wine. He begins with the usual jargon, talking about nose and mid-palate, describing flavors like apricot, buttered popcorn and lilacs, as many wine writers do. But then he departs from the script, saying a wine smells like a sheep butt or that drinking it is like biting into an engine. He might improvise a dialogue with a bottle of riesling, and when he talked about another pinot noir from the Sonoma Coast, a 2006 Kanzler, he seemingly went off the deep end in describing its flavor: .You hit a deer, you pull off to the side of the road, then you stab the deer with a knife, cut it, and bite that venison, and put a little black pepper and strawberries on it and eat it, like a mean, awful human being. That.s what this tastes like.. Audiences love it. .I immediately identified with his passion and enthusiasm,. said Dale Cruse, a Web designer and wine blogger who started watching early on. .But I think it.s worth noting that passion and enthusiasm isn.t going to get you very far in the wine world without some knowledge to back it up.. Indeed, Mr. Vaynerchuk does know his Pommards from his Pomerols, and he clearly loves wine and wants his audience to love wine, too. .My mission is to build wine self-esteem in this country,. he said. .I want people to know their palate is a snowflake. We all like different things. Why should we all have the same taste in wines?. Mr. Vaynerchuk.s own taste is very hard to pin down. He will say that his palate is very different from most people.s, and that given a choice between eating a bowl of fruit and a bowl of vegetables, he.ll choose the vegetables every time. He rails against .the oak monster,. which can make many wines taste like two-by-fours. He freely acknowledges that his palate has changed over the years, away from big fruity wines to more subtle ones, and said he expected his tastes to continue to change. While Mr. Vaynerchuk has been lauded for making wine more accessible to younger people through his populist vocabulary, the real achievement of Wine Library TV has been to break down the barriers around the omniscient wine critic handing down thoughts from the mountaintop, and to include the audience in the critical process. As Mr. Vaynerchuk tastes and spits, his brain is seemingly on display as it begins to churn and the words emerge unfiltered from his mouth. .My natural inclination to be improv rather than an educated character serves me well,. he said. While Mr. Vaynerchuk has done well bringing wine to a wider audience, he.s done even better using wine to market himself. For now, he is looking ahead to new ventures, including the leap to Internet marketing guru. With his new company, Vaynermedia, he wants to market commercial products, people, teams and even sports like boxing. .It.s about stories,. he said. .If I can tell the story to America, whether it.s riesling or a boxer from Harlem, it will sell.. He pauses. .I know on my gravestone it.s going to be, .Storyteller.. . -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *