Aromatic whites cast a spell Jon Bonnéunday, October 2, 2011 I'm deep in the midst of the charmed category designated as "other" as I look through white wines for this year's Top 100 Wines. "Other" can include the ripe tree-fruit pleasures of good Pinot Gris, which by its name usually signals that someone wanted a bit more flesh and depth in the wine - probably with a nod to Alsace rather than to Italy's often peckish version. "Other" can also include the pine-accented charms of Chenin Blanc, a grape that remains a workhorse in California but a rarely appreciated one (see sfg.ly/nJXxnN). We had hoped that more varietal Chenin Blanc would appear this year, and a few new examples surfaced. There's a ways to go in reviving this affordable, interesting grape, but there is progress. And then there are grapes like Malvasia, still a relative rarity here but a beauty when done right. All these are great alternatives for those who already enjoy wines like Gewurztraminer (which we'll look at on its own as fall progresses) and Riesling. The best common link is their aromatic signatures; when made well their inherent pleasures are on full display, with no winemaking to obscure them. 2010 WillaKenzie Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($21, 13.5% alcohol): Oregon has long banked on the other Pinot as one of its strong points, and this longtime Willamette name taps plantings from the mid-1990s in the Yamhill-Carlton district for a plump but peppy effort fermented in steel. Like a ripe Golden Delicious spiked with thyme. 2010 Horse & Plow Filigreen Farm Anderson Valley Pinot Gris ($20, 14.2%): Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins usually aim for more Rhoneish fare with their label, but here they've harnessed fruit from Mendocino's Alsatian haven for a ripe, barrel-fermented effort. Opulent pear, fig and orange peel flavors, with a distinct Boston cream note but plenty of freshness for its larger style. Open it 15 minutes before you serve. 2010 Picnic Wine Co. Blue Plate Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($10, 13.3%): Clarksburg, in the Sacramento River delta, has long been California's answer to the Chenin bounty that is France's Loire. The grape seems to love the mild, river-influenced land, and wise drinkers know that Clarksburg Chenin is worth keeping eyes peeled for. So kudos to this new label helmed by Mason Cellars' Grant Hemingway and two friends; they've devised a great value that shows off a fresh pear blossom Chenin presence, with a bit of grassy bite and ripe apricot fruit. Fresh, crisp and breezy, with a tad of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay blended in. 2010 Etude Carneros Pinot Gris ($24, 13.6%): Etude proudly continues its tradition with this grape in a Carneros iteration. Aged in small steel barrels, it's a bit shy - taking some time for the aromas to come play. There's saline edge to juicy pear and peach flavors, and its softer tree-fruit opulence is balanced by the fresh bite of salted plum. A serious, noteworthy effort. 2010 Birichino Monterey Malvasia Bianca ($15, 13%): Take note of this new label, from Bonny Doon veterans John Locke and Alex Krause. They've found a plot of this aromatic Italian variety near the Santa Lucia range, and with some savvy use of lees they've brought forward a dense texture to rich orange and Anjou pear fruit. It's just the foil for the sappy, floral scents of Malvasia - think nutmeg and rose petal - that burst out of the glass. 2010 Husch La Ribera Vineyards Mendocino Chenin Blanc ($11, 12.8%): This Anderson Valley label has long worked with Chenin Blanc, and theirs is back in fine form with an orange creamsicle finish that balances its cool piney presence and tree fruit. Friendly, approachable stuff. 2010 Pine Ridge California Chenin Blanc-Viognier ($14, 13%): Napa's Pine Ridge has been tapping Clarksburg Chenin (and adding Viognier for a touch of plushness and peach) for years in this affordable blend. The mandarin, freesia and green apple flavors showcase great acidity and a hint of sweet nectar to soften the finish. Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. E-mail him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/10/02/FDNC1LAUJR.DTL This article appeared on page G - 8 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *