Spanish Wines at JP's 1/13/2005
Disclaimer: someone who actually knows something about Spanish wines,
such as Annette Peters who joined us this evening after a long absence,
would be a far better author than yours truly for these notes. And as
seems to be usual at this venue, strong kitchen smells were difficult
competition for the wines' aromas and flavors. But here goes.
W1 lightly corked, not tasted. Gramona, 2001 "Gessami" (appellation
Penedes).
W2 lite gold, trace of spritz? Sizable fresh, attractive nose; medium
body, taste full and rich, lots of ripe fruit, on the soft side but acid
structure is adequate, fully dry; attractively aromatic finish,
excellent length, very nice wine for current drinking. Pazo Senorans,
2003 Albarino (appellation Rias Baixas). Went well with JP's excellent
calamari.
W3 clear gold; mostly pears and alcohol on nose; tastes of full soft
fruit, trace of cheese, perhaps white cheddar; cheese on the finish
too; reasonably good length. Martin Codax, 2003 Albarino (appellation
Rias Baixas).
W4 full gold; shy floral and shellac nose; tastes of weighty, mature
fruit and wood, some amylic tones, finishes with good length and power,
at first as it tastes then quite floral, overall a little strange but
good. Emilio Rojo, 2002 (appellation) Ribeiro. (This is made of five
grapes, mostly or all traditional Spanish varieties, whose names I did
not write down because the print was too small.)
1.1 light purple; funky, forward fruit nose showing some alcohol;
light body, lots of tasty red fruit, a bit of finishing tannin, nice
light wine overall. Los Llanos, 1992 "Pata Negra" Gran Reserva
(appellation Valdepenas).
1.2 deep medium purple, oaky and fresh grapy nose with a touch of
alcohol, medium body, attractively astringent, decent fruit level in
the mouth, finishes powerfully alcoholic although again with a
reasonable fruit level. Javier Asensio, 2002 (appellation) Navarro,
Tinto.
1.3 dark purple, smells of fresh dark fruit and chocolate, medium
body, tastes of fresh grapes, touch of tannin, some acid to integrate;
finish dominated by tannin and alcohol, decent wine though. 2002 Vina
Sastre, Roble (appellation Ribeira del Duero).
2.1 light red, lovely if oaky tempranillo nose showing a touch of age,
very aromatic midpalate with a substantial funk factor (raw or maybe
even decaying meat??) and plenty of fruit, smooth transition to
reasonably aromatic finish, lacks finishing power but good length,
overall impression very good if idiosyncratic. Rioja Alta, 1994 Gran
Reserva (appellation Rioja). Controversial wine, clearly too weird for
some tasters, maybe including yours truly if I'd been having more than
sip or two.
2.2 dark purple, shy nose with oak and dark fruits, midpalate BIG
tannic alcoholic & acidic, decent fruit level but could certainly wish
for more in a wine this size, decent finish, not special. Guelbenzu,
1995 "Evo" (appellation Navarra).
2.3 lite/medium red, sizable sweet oaky tempranillo red fruit nose,
tastes of more tempranillo fruit, mature now, delicious, aromatic
finish, touch of alcohol at the end but good power and length. Marques
de Arienzo, 1987 Gran Reserva (appellation) Rioja. One of my favorite
wines of the evening. Much less impressive an hour or so after being
opened; not sure whether it was falling apart a bit in the glass (it is
17 years old, after all) or just couldn't compete with the lovely wine #
4.1.
3.1 dark purple, reduced alcoholic nose improved with air, clear "one
note" dark fruit midpalate with substantial alcohol, aromatic dark
fruit alcoholic finish. Artadi, 2001 Vinas de Gain (appellation
Rioja). Disclaimer: gratuitous shot at Bob Parker coming up. This
wine got a big score from Parker although for my taste, at this point
in the wine's life, it is not carrying its alcohol very gracefully.
And by the way, it doesn't especially taste like Rioja, or anything
else in particular.
3.2 extremely dark purple, big dark fruit international style oaky
nose, distinct smell of Cognac; sweet late harvest zin midpalate, thick
and soft wine, big alcoholic black fruit and oak finish. A 290-pounder
trying to dance the ballet. Laderas de Pinoso, 1999 "El Seque"
(appellation Alicante).
4.1 lite/medium red, touch of maturity visible; a clear, aromatic
tempranillo sweet oak nose, midweight, extremely sizable tempranillo
fruit in the mouth, delicious and well structured, still more and to
some extent different fruit tones on the finish, tasty and pure, extra
long, very fine indeed. Rioja Alta, 1998 "Vina Ardanza" Reserva
(appellation Rioja). Got my vote for wine of the night, by a
considerable margin; thanks for sharing!
4.2 inky purple, butterscotchy sweet oak nose, midpalate rich, soft,
dark black fruit and lots of it, alcoholic, raisins and/or prunes; then
the finish is on the subtle side for the wine's size. Cims de Porrera,
1999 "Classic" (appellation Priorat).
4.3 medium to dark purple, legs in glass, alcoholic nose, tastes of
sweet, soft and spicy Rhone red fruits, very alcoholic, some acid and
tannin upon chewing; alcohol dominates the finish. Ramirez de Ganuza,
1998 Reserva (appellation Rioja).
Dessert dark cloudy brown; sharp shellacy nose, smells like those
weirdly herbal liqueurs some French (and apparently Spanish?) are fond
of as digestifs, not my cup of tea, not tasted. Toro Albala, 1975 Don
Pedro Ximenez Gran Reserva (appellation Montilla Moriles). Despite
this note, people's willingness to share such old and unusual wines is
greatly appreciated.
Hope to see everyone next week!