Mostly an update:
I don't know that Burgundy is really the 30 Second Guy's forte.
Doing Burgundy at the 510 this week. 2002's are just hitting the
shelves and are excellent. The 2001's seem to be "closing" quickly.
1994 and older are probably ready.
Smaller 1996 and 1997 burgundies are also probably ready.
Recall that 10 burgundy pours is about all we can get from a
single bottle. Thanks to those who are willing to share....
Be gentle with the bottle so as to minimize the sediment in
the later/final pours.
Be aware of the our volume level. We don't want to disturb
the othere guests.
The 510 Restaurant
510 Groveland Ave
MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55403
Phone: 612-874-6440
B-Bob,
B-Dave
Lori
Betsy
Nikolai
Bill S.
Russ and Sue (mostly whites)
Jim
Fred Petters
Cheers,
Jim
----- Forwarded message from The 30 Second Wine Advisor <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
-----
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 18:03:03 -0400 (EDT)
To: jellings(a)me.umn.edu
Subject: The 30 Second Wine Advisor - Basic Burgundy: Does vintage matter?
From: The 30 Second Wine Advisor <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
X-Sender: <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
THE 30 SECOND WINE ADVISOR, Wednesday, Sept. 22, 2004
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IN THIS ISSUE
* BASIC BURGUNDY: DOES VINTAGE MATTER? Bottom-feeding in pricey
waters.
* DOMAINE CHENE 2000 BOURGOGNE ROUGE ($14.99) Generic but
impressive, even cellar-worthy.
* JOSEPH DROUHIN 2001 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR ($14.99) Drinkable but
tart and thin, no bargain at this price.
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BASIC BURGUNDY: DOES VINTAGE MATTER?
When it comes to fancy Burgundies - particularly those from
vineyards designated as premier cru or grand cru on the basis of
their favored location - wine fanciers devote considerable
attention to vintage and producer in making buying decisions.
In yesterday's Wine Advisor Premium Edition, we pondered the
implications of critical disagreement over the quality of the 2001
vintage and its implications for wine consumers. It was a wild
summer in which frost, rain, searing heat and hailstorms yielded
variable results, opening up some opportunities for bargains but
making it critical to single out the successful producers of high-
end wines.
Heat and hail posed similar-only-different challenges in the 2000
vintage, which the experts rate as another year in which critical
discernment is essential, with many wines to be avoided.
But in these cases, we're talking about the high-end, sought-after
wines priced well above the level that most of us are willing to
pay for everyday enjoyment.
How about the more generic Burgundies, the Bourgogne Pinot Noirs,
typically bottled by major producers serving a large international
market with wines in more affordable price ranges?
In my experience, the connection between vintage and quality at
this generic level is tenuous at best, although it still pays to
stick with producers you've learned to trust. The large, Beaune-
based negociants have economic clout when they buy their grapes,
and the good ones are not loath to use it to get the best fruit in
the available price range.
At the same time, you can afford to gamble a little. Although even
generic Bourgogne Pinot has risen to mid-teens dollar prices with
the strong Euro, you're not taking nearly as much of a risk with an
unknown label as you do when you choose an $80 grand cru.
At the bottom line, generic Bourgogne can make a pleasant table
wine at an appropriate price, and can give you at least a hint of
why so many wine lovers wax poetically enthusiastic about the
better Burgundies. The LOUIS JADOT 2000 PINOT NOIR BOURGOGNE that I
reviewed on Feb. 18 is a good example from an iffy vintage, as is
the DOMAINE CHENE 2000 BOURGOGNE ROUGE reviewed below. Another
random sample from a big-name shipper, JOSEPH DROUHIN 2001
"LAFORET" BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, was thin, tart and less appealing
... but then, I have rarely found Drouhin's low-end offerings to be
quite up to those from Jadot.
You pay your money and you take your risks. But when you're buying
generic Burgundy - in contrast with the more pricey stuff - I don't
advise expending too much emotion or stress over what the critics
are saying about the vintage.
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DOMAINE CHENE 2000 BOURGOGNE ROUGE ($14.99)
This is a clear, cherry-red wine, not too dark. Fresh and clean
red-fruit aromas add an appealing smoky note. Crisp, tart and dry
red-berry flavors are laced up with lemony acidity and a soft layer
of tannins. Good balance and structure and a still-youthful quality
come together in an impressive package that's relatively simple but
distinctly Burgundian and even hints at the possibility of gaining
interest with cellar time. U.S. importer: Wine Adventures Inc., W.
Des Moines, Iowa. (Aug. 31, 2004)
FOOD MATCH: A food-friendly Pinot Noir that would serve well in a
broad range of carnivorous and vegetarian optionss, from beef or
lamb to our meatless choice, an earthy, offbeat veggie pasta dish
of broccoli tossed with a thick chopped walnut and white miso
sauce.
VALUE: Appropriately priced in the mid-teens.
WHEN TO DRINK: As noted, it's drinking well and youthful now, but
might reward two or three years in a good cellar.
PRONUNCIATION:
Chene = "Shayn"
Bourgogne = "Boor-GON-yuh"
Rouge = "Roozh" (I've made no effort to replicate the "gargled"
French "R" here; it's a challenge to Anglophone tongues.)
WEB LINK: Here's the Domaine Chene Website, available only in
French; online sales are offered within Europe.
http://www.domainechene.com/
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Check first with local retailers, or contact
the importer for information about retail vendors in the U.S.,
http://www.wineadventures.com/
___________________________________________________________________
JOSEPH DROUHIN 2001 "LAFORET" BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR ($14.99)
Clear ruby color, on the light side, a shade or two darker than a
rose. Fresh, light red-fruit and dried-cherry aromas add a whiff of
brown spices, cinnamon and cloves. Tart and a bit thin on the
palate; fresh-fruit flavors are consistent with the nose, but
lemony, almost sour acidity dominates the fruit. Simple, rather
one-dimensional, but fruit and acid make it a decent food wine.
U.S. importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., NYC. (Sept. 18, 2004)
FOOD MATCH: A natural with beef; also worked well with a meatless
match, roast beets (a good vegetarian choice with Pinot Noir)
braised with mild but aromatic Indian spices.
VALUE: To be frank, it is no bargain at the $15 price point. Note,
however, that my local price is very high. Some vendors list it for
less than $10 on
Wine-Searcher.com, at which point it is certainly
competitive.
WHEN TO DRINK: Although Pinot is unpredictable, I don't see it
improving with age. In no danger of losing its fruit over a year or
two, but don't bother to cellar it.
PRONUNCIATION:
Drouhin = "Droo-aN"
WEB LINK: Although it's available in both English and French, the
Drouhin site attempts to detect your browser's language settings
and deliver the appropriate page:
http://www.drouhin.com/
Also, the U.S. importer has a detailed page about Drouhin here:
http://www.dreyfusashby.com/France-Drouhin.htm
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Research Drouhin Laforet wines on Wine-
Searcher.com. Click:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Drouhin+Laforet/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=…
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Wednesday, September 22, 2004
Copyright 2004 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
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