South Central Coast Pinot Noir Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, October 24, 2008 The South Central Coast, which stretches from San Luis Obispo County to Santa Barbara County, has growers who farm many different grape varieties, including Pinot Noir. Vineyard sites with ocean winds that temper warm days benefit this persnickety cool-climate grape. About 80 percent of the 70 wines in the tasting were from Santa Barbara County appellations, which include the Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Sta. Rita Hills. The 2006 vintage - which coincidentally also comprised 80 percentage of the tasting - had a late, wet start but the grapes matured nicely without becoming overripe so the wines maintain varietal cherry character and moderate body. Our South Central Coast Pinot Noir recommendations generally have good acidity, tend toward red fruit and have varying amounts of oak with mostly minimal tannins. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($38) Aromas take some time to show. Savory musk, soy, loam, mint and radiant red cherry on the nose are more evident on the palate, which has tangerine and raspberry highlights. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($49) Nose of spice, graham cracker and damp loam with stewy, dried fruit. Rich black fruit flavors backed by oak, which adds significant structure; palate retains its brightness and balance. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Cambria Bench Break Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($30) Red raspberry, plum, spice and creamy oak nose; the mineral-tinged palate shows a bit more fruit that has to compete with the oak. Extracted but a touch hard on the finish. One taster thought the oak overdone. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Cambria Julia's Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($21) Earthy loam, ripe cherry and pepper aromas follow an initial floral perfume. Similar flavors plus a savory edge and hint of leather on this lifted, delicately styled bottling. Balanced but perhaps fades a bit on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Daniel Gehrs Limited Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($44) Nose offers loam, bright blueberry and tart black cherry. Rich red fruit, sweet raspberry and touch of orange and green herb converge on the palate, which has a savory, leathery edge. Finishes with a tart twang. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Derby Wine Estates Derbyshire Vineyard Central Coast San Simeon Pinot Noir ($42) Sour cherry, violet and mineral aromas in this somewhat lean, very tart wine that nevertheless has some warmth to its cranberry and raspberry fruit. Strawberry leaf, grippy tannins and a tight, focused finish. Winery only. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Fess Parker Ashley's Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($55) Spicy, darker fruit nose with palate that has a rich middle, some brightness and lots of structural tannins but retains its balance. Better with medium-rare red meat and a few more years. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($55) Bright cherry, pencil lead, touch of cola and evident oak on nose. Big in style, nicely extracted. Grippy tannins linger on the tart finish, which one taster thought a touch acrid. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Firestone Vineyard Rancho Santa Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($36) Layers of earth and mineral combine with soft floral and dark berry fruit. Palate has up-front loam with slightly jammy strawberry and Bing cherry beneath. Lively mineral nuance on finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Gainey Vineyard Limited Selection Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($48) Loamy, earthy nose with more fruit on the palate; a distinct sweet spot reminiscent of sweet cherry pie filling is reined in by a rhubarb-like tartness. Plenty of oak, structure and extract in a lighter-style wine. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Garey Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Subtle rose perfume wraps around the more concentrated strawberry, blackberry nose that also has sassafras and nice toasty oak. Darker fruit flavors with white mineral and a subtle grip from fine-grained tannins. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Santa Maria Cuvee Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($26) Nose starts with a floral note then moves to tart cherry and cranberry fruit with a hint of moss. Bright, acidic palate has broad tannins and a sweet fruit on finish. Lighter weight but very food-friendly. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Sierra Madre Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($36) This wine is richer, fuller-bodied and riper than its more slender sister. Black fruit, spice, light soy sauce and earth flavors with ripe but not overly ripe fruit. One panelist thought it a bit wound and tight now. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Queen of Hearts Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($14) Juicy cherry and raspberry aromas with flavors of tart cranberry and oaky vanilla. Lighter weight and softer, but one taster thought it underfruited and raisined. Winery only. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Rusack Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($36) Layered, complex nose of lovely ripe berry highlighted with loam and the barest hint of barnyard. Deep, rich palate supports the aromas; very well balanced with good structure and lengthy finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Rusack Reserve Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) Notes of coffee mocha and bright, high-toned black cherry aromas with whispers of herb and smoky bacon. Somewhat less weighty palate, which offers similar flavors and well-incorporated oak. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Sea Smoke Southing Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($50) A subtle nose that shows a fair amount of pretty oak and loam that echoes on the smooth, supple palate; ripe, bright black cherry provides support but it finishes a tad dry. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Sea Smoke Ten Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($80) Lovely combination of fruit and earth that is layered and deep but still subtle. Ripe, rich and sweet with blackberry, black cherry and expensive oak; citrus hint on the nicely textured finish. A glossy, showy, mouth-filling wine. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Talley Vineyards Stone Corral Vineyard Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($50) Sawdust, blackberry and boysenberry on the subdued nose, which leads to a palate with plenty of oak that wraps around ripe but restrained fruit. A bigger, oakier style. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Taz Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($25) Nose of high-toned cranberry, Bing cherry, dry loam and hint of pencil lead; similar flavors on the palate that also shows some spice and brightness. Lovely balance. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Taz Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($35) Meaty, jammy, ripe berry aromas with vanillin, baking spice and soft oak notes. Rich and extracted but the weighty berry pie filling has a tussle with some alcohol on the finish, which also has a nice lemon zest brightness. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Taz Cuyama River Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($28) Bright aromas of very ripe, juicy fruit, vanilla cream highlighted with Bing cherry and an oaky depth. More tart cranberry and raspberry on the focused palate, which has a knotted mineral presence. May improve with a few more years. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Testarossa Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($56) Dark juicy berry, violet and floral aromas with touch of coconut and oak. Big and deep with some pretty ruby cherry fruit flavors. Tart, focused finish. Winery only. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Testarossa Sanford and Benedict Vineyard Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($56) Spice and pepper undertones to the ruby red fruit, which has a touch of savory herb. Slight boysenberry profile on the palate. Lighter style with food-friendly acidity; drink soon. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Tolosa Marley Anne Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Leather, blueberry and black fruit aromas emerge with some air; plum and blackberry fruit lend a tart, bright edge, which underscores the nice tannic structure. Oaky wood tannins linger on the finish. Winery only. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Frank Klein, owner, Fish and Farm restaurant. For additional recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/24/WIF913EBLO.DTL This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle Pairings: Barley stew echoes earth in Pinot Noir Joyce Goldstein, Special to The Chronicle Friday, October 24, 2008 Flavors of fall in an Italian-style Barley Stew with Bean... As October's weather changes from Indian summer to fall, so, too, my food musings turn to more comforting fare, which, to me, often means Italy. I find myself gravitating to Friuli because many fine wines are cultivated in this region, among them the elegant Pinot Nero, the Italian version of our Pinot Noir. When I tasted some of this week's recommended South Central Coast Pinot Noirs, a savory stew of barley, mushrooms and sausage came to mind. Friuli-Venezia Giulia is in the northeastern corner of Italy. It is the home of prosciutto di San Daniele, cured and smoked meats and sausages, and Montasio cheese. The region also has a superb repertoire of recipes made with orzo - though it's not the seed-shaped pasta we call orzo. In Italian, barley is called orzo perlato; the whole barley grain has been lightly pearled so it cooks faster and more easily. I sometimes order barley and black barley from Kalustyan's in New York because they have a wide selection of unusual varieties. But do not let my grain mania intimidate you. You can use plain old-fashioned pearl barley from the supermarket and be very, very happy with this dish. And if you are a fan of farro, you may use it in place of barley; it is a close relation and has a similar genetic makeup. Unlike wheat berries, spelt and bulgur, barley is much lighter on the palate and stomach, and is nuttier and sweeter too. This recipe is quite flexible; you can prepare it as a stew or add more broth and turn it into a soup. Keeping the light and fruity characteristics of the wine in mind, you don't want to overload this dish with too many flavors or make it too dense, or the wines will suffer. Fall is the season of wild mushrooms and both this dish and many Pinot Noirs are noteworthy for their earthy and savory character and compatible with the mushroom's earthy flavors. If your market has chanterelles, fresh porcini, hen of the woods or lobster mushrooms, by all means use them. If not, simple brown cremini work well. An infusion of soaked dried porcini, along with their soaking liquids, wouldn't hurt either. Pinot Noir's level of acidity offers a fine contrast to the meaty characteristics of the stew and the heartiness of the grain. The light smokiness of the bacon is a fine echo to the wines' oak aspects. Barley Stew with Beans, Mushrooms & Sausage Serves 6 The recipe is very forgiving. If you did not cook the barley or beans long enough, simmer the stew longer, adding water or broth as needed. * 4 ounces dried white beans soaked overnight in water to cover * -- Kosher salt * 8 ounces pearl barley, soaked overnight in water to cover * 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth, or as needed * 2 tablespoons unsalted butter * 4 tablespoons olive oil * 1/3 pound assorted mushrooms, sliced * 1/2 pound fresh sweet pork sausage * 2 ounces bacon or pancetta, chopped * 1 large onion, chopped * 1 or 2 carrots, peeled and chopped * 1 rib celery, chopped * 2 cloves garlic, minced * 1 bay leaf * 3 sage leaves, chopped * 1 ounce dried porcini, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes * 1/4 pound diced prosciutto (optional) * -- Freshly ground black pepper * -- Chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional) * -- Montasio or Parmesan cheese, for grating (optional) Instructions: Drain the soaked beans, place in a small saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer the beans gently until tender, about 30 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt during the last 15 minutes. Drain and set aside. Transfer barley and its soaking water to another saucepan, add 2 cups of the chicken broth and 1 teaspoon salt and simmer until barley is tender but still has some chewiness. (Add more water if the barley absorbs all of the liquid and is still too firm.) This will take about 45 minutes or a bit longer. Set aside. Melt the butter along with a tablespoon of the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and saute until tender, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Steam the sausage in another pan with a little water until cooked through. When cool enough to handle cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. (Cut them into smaller pieces if you are planning to serve this as a soup.) Remove to a plate and set aside. Heat remaining oil in a stew pot or large saute pan over medium heat. Saute the bacon along with the onion and carrots and celery for about 10 minutes or until onion is tender. Add garlic, herbs, beans, barley and any simmering liquid and remaining chicken broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the porcini through a coffee filter, reserving the liquid. Chop the porcini. Add the mushrooms, porcini and their strained soaking liquids, the sausage and prosciutto, if using, and simmer for 10 minutes longer to blend the flavors. Add more liquid if needed. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Serve the stew in warmed bowls. Sprinkle with parsley and grated Montasio or Parmesan cheese if you like. Per serving: 463 calories, 19 g protein, 49 g carbohydrate, 22 g fat (6 g saturated), 29 mg cholesterol, 833 mg sodium, 11 g fiber. San Franciscan Joyce Goldstein is a restaurateur, consultant and cookbook author. E-mail her at wine(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/24/WIRE13G826.DTL This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *