This came out on Tuesday. Not sure how I missed it.
Sorry If I double posted it.
To Quote/paraphrase Randall Grahm.
"Rose'. For those who know (or get it), and those who don't."
Rosé20 & less
Lynne Char Bennett
Sunday, May 24, 2009
More...
On this holiday weekend, the unofficial start of summer, thoughts turn to chilled,
refreshing wines like dry roséThe versatility of a dry pink makes it easy to pair with
warm-weather dishes.
Rosés often made from red Rhone grape varieties, both single varietals like Syrah and
Grenache, and blends. Pinot Noir rosé a favorite - is generally more expensive because of
the cost of the fruit.
The past few years have seen a rise in the amount of roséroduced. Many wineries seem to
take roséore seriously, rather than making it as a by-product of their red wines. More
wineries are jumping on the bandwagon as demand increases, so there is plenty of rosén the
marketplace now to try.
Here are some recommendations, but taste around to find your favorite as a refreshing
accompaniment to summer fare.
2008 Angove Nine Vines South Australia Grenache/Shiraz Rosé$13)
The Nine Vines brand of Angove, one of Australia's oldest family-owned wine
companies, gets its name from the nine vines remaining in its original historic Adelaide
vineyard. Bright cherry and spiced raspberry aromas and flavors; shows a bit more body and
fruit intensity. Good acidity with hint of plum skin-like tannins on the finish. 70
percent Grenache; 30 Syrah. (Importer: Trinchero Vineyards)
2008 Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare California Rosé$15)
Santa Cruz-based Randall Grahm, who has produced wine since 1983, put a flying saucer on
the label to poke a little fun at the Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1954 decree banning alien
spacecraft from landing in vineyards. A slightly spiced, refreshing light quaffer with a
hint of astringent bite on the finish. Almost 60 percent Grenache with smaller amounts of
Cinsault, Roussanne, Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache Blanc.
2008 El Coto Rioja Rosado ($12)
Since the release of El Coto de Rioja's first bottling in 1975, the Rioja Alta
winery - which now owns about 65,000 American oak casks - has become a leading brand in
both Spain and Europe. The floral perfumed nose has highlights of red cherry and plum;
delicate palate of light strawberry with slight skin tannins on the finish. Made from
equal parts Grenache and Tempranillo. (Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons)
2008 Paul Jaboulet Aî Parallele 45 Cotes du Rhone Rosé$13) F
Founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet, this winery is still run by the Jaboulet family. The
name refers to the 45th latitude of France's Rhone Valley. This dry roséhows
strawberry, cherry and red raspberry juice. Very refreshing, with tart cherry and good
acidity; an initial hit of tartness segues to a long finish. Contains 50 percent Grenache,
40 Cinsault and 10 Syrah. (Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons)
2008 Robert Hall Rosée Robles Hall Ranch Paso Robles Rosé$14) W
Winery founder Robert Hall purchased his first vineyard in 1995 after deciding to settle
in Paso Robles. Winemaker/director Don Brady came on board in 2001, and now works with a
wide range of grapes, including most Rhone varieties. Medium bodied with red raspberry and
cherry aromas and flavors with a hint of tangerine peel, plus enough acidity and stuffing
to take on foods like roast pork or a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. A blend of 47
percent Grenache, 41 Syrah and 6 each of Cinsault and Mourvedre.
-- To learn more about rosésee the links with this story on
sfgate.com/food.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/24/FDOJ17MK0G.DTL
This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle
Rethink pink
After tasting 135 domestic rosé here are our top picks
Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer
Friday, May 23, 2008
Roséas finally shed its sweet label. But with so many wineries scrambling to make a dry
roséare the new arrivals any good?
Production of premium American roséhas dramatically increased (see the accompanying
story). Last year, The Chronicle Tasting Panel evaluated 81 domestic pink wines, 12 of
which we recommended. This year the numbers were even higher, as U.S. wineries flooded us
with 172 dry still rosé After excluding wines released more than a year ago and those not
readily available at retail in the Bay Area, there were still more than 135 contenders to
consider. We strapped in for a long ride.
(Click here for the domestic roséicks.)
More wineries - noticing customer interest and rosé increasing sales - are producing pink
wine. Roséan be made three ways. The traditional method is to crush red grapes, then bleed
off some juice - referred to as "saignee" - to intensify the color and tannins
of the remaining juice. Another method becoming more prevalent is choosing grapes
specifically for rosépressing the whole clusters, allowing minimal skin contact, then
fermenting it like white wine. Less usual is blending red wine with white wine for a
resulting pink.
Saignee rosés made by seasoned winemakers like Storybook Mountain's Jerry Seps, who
has been making between 100 and 300 cases of Zinfandel roséor the past 12 years, and
roséewcomer Blackbird Vineyards, which just released its first vintage of 400 cases made
from 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Franc.
Paul Leary, Blackbird's chief marketing and operating officer, says the production of
roséas not been part of the winemaking regimen, but something both he and proprietor
Michael Polenske decided to do as roséovers.
oséf pinot noir
Other winemakers choose the whole-cluster route. Richard Sanford, founder and owner of
Alma Rosa Winery and the co-founder of Sanford Winery, has been making whole-cluster Pinot
Noir roséince 1976. Sanford and his wife, Thekla, love dry Pinot Noir Vin Gris for its
unique flavor profile, aging it to develop some roundness - the 2006 vintage will soon be
released.
"Pinot Noir, with its subtle tannins and raspberry fruit quality, makes a beautiful
rosé Sanford says. He prefers it to other grape varieties that have more aggressive
tannins and can't bring himself to make rosérom anything else, despite the rising
cost of Pinot Noir grapes, which curtails his production.
On the flip side, Beam Wine Estates' large-volume Clos du Bois entered the roséarket
last year with 4,600 cases of its inaugural 2006 vintage, which had limited distribution.
Winemaker Erik Olsen had wanted to make a dry French-style roséor some time but became
more motivated after a trip to Southern France, where he thought it remarkable how much
roséas consumed - "more roséit seemed, than anything else," he says.
The Clos du Bois rosérogram combines saignee with whole-cluster press. Olsen picks some
roséesignated Syrah vineyards at 22.5 Brix, a measure of the grapes' ripeness - about
three to four weeks earlier than Syrah destined for red wine. Earlier harvest means lower
sugar (therefore lower alcohol) and more acidity, which is maintained with cooler harvest
temperatures, one reason the grapes are picked at night or early in the morning.
Syrah, Olsen says, is a natural base grape to use for roséecause it is readily available
and affordable. For the 2007 vintage, Clos du Bois upped its production of Sonoma County
Roséo 20,000 cases.
Besides Pinot Noir, Syrah and Grenache, Sangiovese also make good rosé
Washington state's Barnard Griffin Winery, founded in 1983, began its rosérogram
almost by accident. Owner-winemaker Rob Griffin's interest was piqued by the amount
of dry roséine distributors were carrying from Spain and Southern France. Griffin's
friend, grower Maury Balcom, planted 4 acres of Sangiovese, which Balcom intended to make
into red wine. Washington-grown Sangiovese, Griffin noted, often makes a mediocre wine,
but its fruit is well defined. Picking Sangiovese early for rosénhances its high acidity
and the tannins are mitigated by avoiding overextraction.
Griffin says, "I made 600 cases of Sangiovese rosén 2001 almost as a lark and it
became successful beyond our wildest expectations. It seems that wines that make the
lightest reds make the best rosé a lesser degree of ripeness and bright, fruit-driven
characteristics that come on early - like Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and some Cabernet Franc -
are best in Washington."
ast coast pink
While The Chronicle's Tasting Panel mostly reviewed West Coast roséthe East Coast is
no stranger to it. Wolffer Estate Vineyard in the Hamptons, Long Island, first made 42
cases of rosén 1992. Only one or two Long Island wineries were making roséhen, but now
almost every winery makes one, according to Wolffer winemaker and technical director Roman
Roth.
Roth, who began his winemaking career in Germany before moving on to Australia's
Rosemount Estate, then to Saintsbury in Napa Valley, makes roséy blending white wine and
wine made from red grapes. Roth says this blended style complements his red wine program -
for instance, using Cabernet Sauvignon for rosén cooler years when it wouldn't do as
well vinified as a red wine.
Wolffer Rosé the 2007 vintage is a blend of 40 percent Chardonnay, 35 Merlot, 17 Cabernet
Sauvignon and 8 Cabernet Franc - sells out each summer, even with the increase from 2,500
to 4,000 cases in 2006.
Domestic wineries are making more solid roséBut during this year's panel tasting, 135
wines and 25 recommendations later, we discovered none that soared. Though we liked more
wines, the highest rating was 2 1/2 stars; last year, three wines reached the 3-star mark.
What's happening? While more wineries are jumping onto rosé bandwagon, the net effect
seems to be that there are more subpar wines on the shelves. The panel found bottles that
had volatile acidity, apparent bacterial off flavors and uneven winemaking. But there was
still plenty to enjoy.
The challenge of rosé future is to continue introducing wine lovers to dry pinks while
maintaining the quality in the face of ever-expanding production. Winemakers need to
discover the grape varieties, appellations and winemaking techniques that make the best
rosé
I can't wait until next year's tasting.
nside
Chronicle Wine Selections F4 | Recipes for rosé5
E-mail Lynne Char Bennett at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/23/WIAG10PADK.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
The Chronicle Wine Selections: Dry Imported Roséynne Char Bennett
Friday, May 16, 2008
More stores and restaurants are responding to consumers' growing interest in roséine,
which has become the hot quaffer to quell the heat of warm weather. Both imported and
domestic roséare becoming increasingly available - a good thing since more consumers are
discovering them.
Most rosécurrently on retail shelves are imports, accounting for 76.6 percent of U.S.
roséales, according to the Nielsen Co. Still, the number of domestic versions, which we
will review next week, is also increasing dramatically.
Practically every winemaking region produces this enjoyable pink drink. A similar
diversity of grapes make these wines, including red Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, Barbera
and Tempranillo, as well as more obscure grapes like Gaglioppo and Zweigelt.
Rosés made with juice from red and black grapes that has had minimal contact with the dark
grape skins, which contribute color and a small amount of tannins to the wine.
Last year, the panel tasted 72 imported roséfrom 14 countries, recommending 11. This
year's imports numbered 93, of which 17 are recommended below - a pleasant
improvement from last year's less promising showing. Relatively few wines were
submitted again this year, including last year's 3-star R. Lopez de Heredia Vina
Tondonia Crianza Rioja RoséBut the number of new entries this year underscores the
diversity of choices available on shelves.
The majority of our recommendations are from France, which comprised more than 25 percent
of the wines we tasted. The French have been making roséor a while and for the most part
doing it well.
While the wines ranged from light- to medium-bodied, the panel enjoyed those with good
fruit expression, moderate intensity, zippy acidity and great balance. Most had minimal
tannins - as roséhould - but several showed a little grip, which adds textural interest.
Well-made roséenerally garners a solid 2- to 2.5-star rating, though occasionally a few
rise above. All should be enjoyable. Try a few bottles, find your favorite and stock up
for the summer.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Bastianich Venezia Giulia Rosato ($15)
Earthy nose with loam and herb roots; high-pitched floral note above cherry, dried
blackberry, and spice aromas and flavors. Exotic and lean with mineral bounce and grip on
the palate. From winemaker and restaurateur Joseph Bastianich, who founded Italian Wine
Merchants and whose mother is culinary expert Lydia Bastianich. This wine is 100 percent
Refosco - a lesser-known Northern Italian red grape. (Importer: Dark Star Imports)
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Cantina Terlan Alto Adige Lagrein Rosé$17)
Slight musky aromas with citrus and olive. Dense, almost meaty texture; intense dusty
blackberry. Medium body, brightness and grip with great expression. From Italy. (Importer:
Banville & Jones Wine Merchants)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Cascina La Ghersa Piage Monferrato Chiaretto Barbera ($15)
Slight funk and musk on nose amid tart raspberry and lemon zest, plus earth and mineral
notes. Straightforward with bright, acidic backbone. From Italy. (Importer: Epic Wines)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé$12)
Slight herb and chive blossom notes over strawberry and passion fruit aromas; lean, fresh
palate with plum, cherry and mineral nuance. Made with 50 percent Mourvedre, 40 Syrah, 10
Grenache Noir. From France. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Domaine du Jas D'Esclans Cru Classe Cotes de Provence Rosé$23)
More complex, aromatic nose but less intensity on palate; strawberry, orange peel, chopped
herb with pink grapefruit peel and grip on finish. Contains 60 percent Cinsault, 30
Grenache, 10 Carignan. From France. (Importer: Organic Vintners)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Domaine Saint Andre de Figuiere Le Saint Andre Vin de Pays du Var
Rosé$10.50)
Light salmon color with light, delicate body. Strawberry, plum skin and some mineral with
fresh herb and a hint of cotton candy on finish; straightforward with mouthwatering
acidity. French, with 25 percent each Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault.
(Importer: Dee Vine Wines)
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 El Portillo Mendoza Malbec Rosé$11)
Meaty, peppery, earthy and soy notes under the sweet-tart currant, strawberry with tart
citrus and herbal punch on finish. Spice, zippy acidity and grip in this straightforward
Argentine wine. (Importer: San Francisco Wine Exchange; the 2007 vintage is imported by
Palm Bay International)
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Fra Guerau Montsant Rosé$15)
Floral aromatics, roasted cauliflower, loam and caramel hints with crushed blueberry and
peach skin on finish. A stoic, dark-toned effort with plenty of structure. Montsant is
within Spain's larger Tarragona region. Made with 50 percent Merlot, 25 Syrah, 25
Garnacha. (Importer: Freixenet)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rosé$10)
Meaty nose of bacon, underripe berry and nectarine with some underlying gravel and tannin
on the clean fruit finish. Produced from 50 percent Cinsault, 40 Grenache and 10 Syrah by
Jean Pierre Perrin - a member of France's Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel.
(Importer: Vineyard Brands)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Librandi Ciro Rosato ($14)
Crushed strawberry with peppery spice. Ripe, plush; a little alcohol showing. Mineral
punch and grip on the finish. The wine is 100 percent Gaglioppo, which is prevalent in
Calabria, Italy; when vinified as red wine, it has been described by some as a
straightforward Nebbiolo. (Importer: Winebow)
Rating: THREE STARS 2007 Loimer Kamptal Roséable Wine ($15)
Stony slate, strawberry-rhubarb compote and crushed blackberry aromas and flavors. Lean,
grippy, taut profile with lengthy finish. A standout for the price. It's 100 percent
Zweigelt, which is Austria's most widely grown red grape - a 1922 cross between
Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent. (Importer: Vin Divino)
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Mas Grand Plagniol Costieres de Nimes Rosé$12)
Full, weighty and a bit fleshy with a ripe but dry finish. Sweet cherry, ancho chile,
cinnamon and plum aromas; similar flavors plus plum skin and some tannic grip on finish.
Good even with medium-rare grilled beef. From France. (Importer: Winewise)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Sabine Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Syrah-Grenache Rosé$11)
Named after winemaker Charles Bieler's daughter; cherry, peach pit and spiced,
peppery finish. Weight and body enough to pair with pork and rare ahi tuna. Contains 70
percent Syrah, 30 Grenache from France. Good value. (Importer: Trinchero Vineyards)
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Triennes Vin de Pays du Var Rosé$21)
Dry dusty berry, red apple skin; lean with good acidity. Edgy, with pretty fruit on the
palate. Pink grapefruit peel and slight grip on the finish. Outperforms its light profile.
From France. (Importer: The Sorting Table)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Vignerons des Caves de Provence L'Estandon Cotes de Provence
Rosé$11)
Sweet raspberry, candied cherry Jolly Rancher and watermelon, with a spun sugar note on
the nose, but lean and lively on the palate. Focused and tapered with slight pepper on the
finish. Nice summer quaffer from France. (Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines)
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Vignerons du Mont-Ventoux Les Demoiselles Coiffees Cotes du Ventoux
Rosé$11)
Straightforward cherry, tangerine and mineral with herbal hint; lean acidity, light-bodied
with long, focused finish. French-made blend of 50 percent Grenache, 30 Carignan and 20
Cinsault. (Importer: International Vineyards)
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Vignerons du Mont-Ventoux Cotes du Ventoux O Rosé$13)
Concentrated tart fruit on nose, plenty of mineral and herb, with watermelon, orange
blossom and peach skin. Well-balanced French roséith less-ripe berry and an acidic
backbone; even better with food. (Importer: International Vineyards)
Panelists include Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jeff
Berlin, sommelier, A CotéJon BonnéChronicle wine editor. For more recommended wines, go to
sfgate.com/wine.
Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARSExcellent Rating: TWO STARS Good
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/16/WIT810HM6V.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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