Cork taint found in 8 percent of wine bottles
- Cyril Penn
Thursday, January 27, 2005
One out of every dozen cork-sealed wine bottles judged during the 2004 Macquarie Bank
Sydney Royal Wine Show was affected by trichloroanisole --
better known as TCA -- according to results released ahead of the 2005 judging, set to
begin next week. TCA occurs in wood materials such as cork and is the unpleasant-smelling
compound associated with "corked" wine.
The study was carried out for the first time during show judging in February 2004. The
2,161 wines judged formed the sample for the research.
White wine under cork was particularly vulnerable, with 9.68 percent of white wines
affected by TCA.
The study found:
-- 82.1 percent of all entries were presented under cork
-- 8.45 percent of cork-sealed wines were affected by TCA
-- 9.68 percent of dry white wines under cork were affected by TCA
-- 7.86 percent of red wines under cork were affected by TCA
-- 14.95 percent of all entries were sealed under screw cap
-- 1.48 percent of all entries were sealed under plastic cork
A 25-member panel of judges chaired by Brian Croser, founder of Petaluma winery in
Piccadilly, South Australia, assesses about 180 wines per day. Each judge tastes
approximately 540 wines.
N.Y. direct shipping proposed: New York Gov. George Pataki's budget proposal, a draft
of which was released last week, includes good and bad news for wineries outside the
Empire State. Pataki is proposing language that, if adopted by the state legislature,
would legalize interstate direct shipments of wine, but also proposes a wine excise tax
hike, with a portion of the money ($3.5 million) earmarked to promote New York wineries.
The proposed budget would raise the wine tax from $0.05 to $0.28 per liter, projected to
raise an additional $37.7 million in 2005-2006.
Pataki proposed making New York a reciprocal direct-shipping state a year ago, but the
proposal went nowhere. If the proposal flies this time, New York will become the 27th
state to pass legalized direct shipping. New York, the nation's second-largest
wine-consuming state and third-largest wine-producing state, allows in-state wineries to
ship directly to consumers but not out-of- state wineries. The U.S. Supreme Court is
currently considering whether the Constitution forbids states like New York from
discriminating in favor of their own businesses.
Arrowood, Byron for sale: Constellation Brands, the mega-wine company that purchased
Robert Mondavi Corp. late last year for $1.36 billion, is going ahead with the sale of
Arrowood Vineyards and Winery and Byron. Mondavi put the wineries up for sale prior to the
merger with Constellation as part of a plan to divest luxury properties and concentrate on
"lifestyle" brands.
Industry sources told Wine Business Insider that both wineries are expected to go to a
single bidder and that a deal appears close involving investors connected with Legacy
Estates, the group that owns Freemark Abbey winery in St. Helena.
"We're in the process of selling Arrowood and Byron but we never disclose
details of transactions that are in the process of being negotiated," said Mike
Martin, a spokesman for Constellation.
Richard Arrowood, who at one point hoped to regain control of the eponymous Glen Ellen
winery he founded in 1986, declined to discuss the transaction other than to say he is
likely to continue in his role as "winemaster" when it closes. Byron winemaker
Ken Brown could not be reached for comment. Brown founded Byron in 1984 and was named
winemaker and general manager when Mondavi purchased the winery in 1990.
Legacy Estates chief executive Calvin Sidhu did not return calls seeking comment.
Roche files Chapter 11: Roche Carneros Estate Winery last week filed a Chapter 11
reorganization petition in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Santa Rosa. The filing follows the
termination of an escrow for the sale by the Roche family of 1,650 acres of unimproved
property. Joseph Roche said the $15.25 million sale would have paid all of the secured and
unsecured debt.
The Roche family intends to retain ownership of the Sonoma winery facility and 925 acres
of land, including 125 acres of vineyard. The winery remains open for business as usual.
"Like many wineries, we began an expansion program in the late 1990s. The stock
market decline in March of 2001, followed by the terrorist attacks on 9/11, had a
significant impact on our business," Roche said. "As a result, we needed to sell
some of our holdings to pay off the debt we had incurred to fund the expansion. Filing the
Chapter 11 will give us more time to complete a sale or sales that will pay off all
creditors."
Scheid builds winery: Scheid Vineyards plans to break ground next month on a new winery
facility to be located at its vineyard headquarters just off U. S. Highway 101 on Hobson
Avenue near Greenfield.
The winery will make wine on a custom-crush basis for other producers, and will have the
capacity to annually process about 10,000 tons of grapes, though plans call for eventually
expanding it to process 25,000 tons. The first phase of the project is expected to require
an investment of $18 million to $20 million. The zoning administrator of Monterey County
has approved a use permit for the project but building and other permits are still needed.
In 2004, Scheid Vineyards processed more than 6,000 tons of its own grapes into wine using
third-party winery facilities, both within and outside Monterey County. Much of the wine
grapes grown in the county are shipped out of the area for processing, and Scheid
executives see a need for additional local winemaking capacity. Scheid Vineyards operates
approximately 5,600 acres of vineyards, mostly in Monterey. It sells in bulk to wineries
and makes small lots under its own label.
Who's who and where: Sterling Vineyards named Mike Westrick vice president of
winemaking, responsible for leading the Sterling winemaking team and overseeing wine
production. Prior to Sterling, Westrick held the position of winemaker for Solaris, a wine
brand launched by Sterling corporate parent Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines last year.
Westrick replaces Rob Hunter, who left the winery to work on other projects. Before
joining Diageo, Westrick spent 12 years at Stonestreet Winery, where he became head
winemaker in 1996.
John Levenberg has joined Bedell Cellars in Long Island, N.Y. as associate winemaker.
Levenberg was previously associate winemaker for Paul Hobbs Winery in Sebastopol.
Wine Business Insider is produced by Wine Business Communications, Inc., which also
publishes Wine Business Monthly and Wine Business Online (
winebusiness.com) E-mail Cyril
Penn at wine(a)sfchronicle.com.
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