FYI 2008 Red Burgundy: The Chronicle recommends Jon BonnéSunday, May 1, 2011 -- Note: Starting this week, The Chronicle is printing alcohol levels for all recommended wines. They are listed next to the price. 2008 Domaine Arlaud Roncevie Bourgogne Rouge ($25; 13% alcohol): The Morey Saint-Denis-based Arlaud family employs biodynamic farming methods and plows with horses. They source their basic Bourgogne from a parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin. It shows pretty raspberry and cranberry, mineral and deeper fruit-leather tones. Exactly where it should be. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports) 2008 Domaine Faiveley Clos des Myglands Monopole Mercurey Premier Cru ($35; 13% alcohol): Faiveley has been fantastic under Erwan Faiveley (see sfg.ly/lgwfM4) and no better proof than wine from Myglands, in less fashionable Mercurey, which shows all the nuance of great Burgundy. Jasmine tea, sachet, white stone, sassafras and huckleberry. Deeply perfumed, with wonderfully bright cherry fruit and proper grip. And seek out another monopole, Clos de l'Ecu Beaune Premier Cru ($57; 13% alcohol), which highlights the finesse that Faiveley brings to Burgundy's tricky tannins. (Importer: Wilson Daniels) 2008 Charles Audoin Cuvee Marie Ragonneau Marsannay ($33; 13% alcohol): 2008 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or Clos Tavannes Santenay Premier Cru ($60; 13% alcohol): One of Volnay's most noted estates also makes a standout Santenay. And Pousse d'Or's in-your-face style brings out the sultry, spicy side of what's usually a light, carefree appellation. Fecund and aromatic, with some distinct wood and aromatic power: full of sandalwood, cocoa, truffle and savory berry fruit. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports) 2008 Morey-Coffinet Morgeot Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Premier Cru ($54; 13.2% alcohol): Young Thibault Morey is showing off the best of Chassagne-Montrachet, which too often sits in the shadow of neighboring Puligny. Red Chassagne is a little-known treat - Pinot grown on white-wine soils. Muscular and heady, with Chassagne's crunchy mineral signature, plus soy, cedar and pronounced tannins that underscore the plum and dark cherry fruit. And consider his white Chassagnes, like Blanchots Dessus ($87), as a cellar choice. (Importer: Martine's Wines) 2008 Bouchard Pere et Fils Ancienne Cuvee Carnot Volnay Caillerets Premier Cru ($75; 13.5% alcohol): Under ownership of Henriot, the historic Bouchard house is pulling off a similar feat to Faiveley, elevating a well-known Burgundian name. The Carnot perfectly frames Volnay's complexity. Sanguine and tight-knit, with a floral presence - orange peel, black tea, dried flowers, thyme and damp forest floor. Also keep an eye out for Bouchard's 2008 Reserve Bourgogne Rouge ($20; 12.5% alcohol), a wonderfully drinkable entry point. (Importer: Henriot Inc.) 2008 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru ($90; 13% alcohol): Drouhin's voluminous holdings are widespread, but several premier cru parcels in Chambolle (Noirots, Hauts Doix, Combottes and so on) are small enough to be combined in this cuvee. Robust and slightly sweet in its fruit, with carob, coppery tang, soy, loam and a winning musky depth. (Importer: Dreyfus Ashby) 2008 Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Gevrey-Chambertin ($58; 12.5% alcohol): This Gevrey house focuses on the heavy-hitting reds of the Cote de Nuits, from Gevrey itself plus Vosne-Romanee, Chambolle-Musigny and Echezeaux. It's still getting its sea legs, with a distinct spice note, plus dried sage, pepper and allspice wrapped around leathery, cherried Gevrey fruit. Give it two to three years. (Importer: Beaune Imports) 2008 Perrot-Minot Vieilles Vignes Vougeot ($60; 13% alcohol): Christophe Perrot-Minot makes a wide range of wines along the Cote de Nuits in a flashy, appealing style. You don't often encounter village-level Vougeot, but this is a standout - deep, oak-inflected and winning, full of sandalwood, dried heather, layered mineral and ripe, forceful red fruit. The Vieilles Vignes Chambolle-Musigny ($75; 13% alcohol) retains the dense, seductive style, but applies it to bright Chambolle fruit. (Importer: Martine's Wines) 2008 Louis Jadot Domaine Clos Vougeot Grand Cru ($95; 13.5% alcohol): Though Jadot's Jacques Lardiere is a Burgundy master, we weren't swayed by the Jadot 2008 village wines. Totally different story with his Clos Vougeot, a brilliant example of what Jadot can do so well. Tense and mineral-powered, with a hint of its oak but quickly moving to show its layers: dried flowers, pu-erh tea and chalky earth, finessed red fruit and a lithe, taut frame. Not even showing its full depths, but the sheer quality of Vougeot fruit is there. (Importer: Kobrand) Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Rebecca Rapaszky, manager, Vin, Vino, Wine; John Vuong, wine director, Ame restaurant. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/05/01/FDMV1J8KG7.DTL This article appeared on page H - 7 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *