Sonoma Coast vs. Russian River Valley refinement By Dave McIntyre, Published: July 30 .I don.t like chomping on a toothpick or eating buttered popcorn with dried mangoes sprinkled on it,. Kathleen Inman said. We were discussing chardonnay, of course. Inman.s own wine was nothing like the caricature of California chardonnay she had just described. Lemony and creamy, with flavors of apricots and pears, it glided across my palate with grace and ease, lingering like a lover.s memory. I need to drink more chardonnay, I thought . at least more like this, if I can find ones like this. Inman is co-owner and winemaker at Inman Family Wines, in the Russian River Valley area of Sonoma County. The valley is famous for its chardonnay and pinot noir; it.s a .cold-climate. region, where ocean air streams through and cools nighttime temperatures, helping the grapes preserve acidity. Inman calls her winemaking .natural,. as in, .no additions, no subtractions.. That means she does not use commercial yeasts to ferment the wines or enzymes to boost color. Nor does she .correct. a wine.s acidity or sugar level in the winery. The flavor notes of her chardonnay . especially the citrus . are typical of the area. .The balancing acidity is the hallmark here and is maintained even for people trying to make chardonnay in a riper style,. says Rod Berglund, owner and winemaker at Joseph Swan Vineyards. .We tend to have a lush mouth feel, and I think that.s from the long hang time we have here,. he adds, referring to the longer growing season that allows vintners to harvest later. Some wineries have tried to persuade the federal government to expand the boundaries of the Russian River Valley American Viticultural Area, a reflection of the region.s success and the price premium conferred by its name on a label. With success comes maturity, and some winemakers I spoke with said they are in search of greater elegance. .A lot of us are heading toward a lighter, more food-friendly style,. says Mick Schroeter, head winemaker at Sonoma-Cutrer winery. That change holds for pinot noir as well as chardonnay. Russian River has darker-side-of-pinot tendencies: deep color and black-fruit flavors rather than the more herbal characteristics the wine achieves in other parts of Sonoma County. As Inman and I savored the Inman Family 2009 Thorn Ridge Ranch pinot noir during her recent visit to Washington, I asked her to explain the difference between the wines of the Russian River area and those of the .extreme. Sonoma Coast, where pinot noir and chardonnay grow at higher altitudes and much closer to the ocean. She started with a technical answer about herbal flavors and tannic structure, then focused on the wines. texture, a rather subjective aspect that can befuddle the literal-minded. (It helps to have a glass or two.) .Sonoma Coast is more silk, while Russian River is velvet,. she said. The aesthetic and even the cultural ramifications of her analogy are debatable; ultimately, it comes down to a stylistic preference. Sipping the Thorn Ridge Ranch pinot, I was quite happy with velvet. McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. On Twitter: @dmwine. More from Food: 5 Russian River Valley wines to try Wine Recommendations ...Exceptional ...Excellent..Very Good Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be available at additional stores. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Russian River Valley wines are found more often on restaurant wine lists than on retail shelves, primarily because of limited production. Inman Family Pinot Noir 2008 ... Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $30 This wine features delicious black-fruit flavors, a hint of spice and the suggestion of a hidden story line waiting to emerge with the next sip. I certainly wanted to keep on drinking it. Also look for the Olivet Grange and Thorn Ridge bottlings. Broadbent Selections/Country Vintner: Available in the District at Ace Beverage; on the list at Corduroy, Elisir. Available in Maryland at Richburn Discount Liquors in Columbia, Total Discount Liquors in Eldersburg, the Wine Merchant in Lutherville; on the list at Bluegrass in Baltimore. On the list in Virginia at Poplar Springs in Casanova. Inman Family Chardonnay 2011 ..1 / 2 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $32 A lovely chardonnay; it has flavors of lemon curd and peach, plus enough acidity to give it structure and a long, complex finish. I don.t understand why more stores don.t carry this gem. Broadbent Selections/Country Vintner: On the list in the District at Corduroy, Old Ebbitt Grill. Martin Ray Chardonnay 2012 ..1 / 2 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $19 Lively and finely balanced, this citrusy and toasty chard is a crowd-pleaser at a reasonable price. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Paul.s of Chevy Chase. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Wine and Beer. Available in Virginia at Dominion Wine & Beer in Falls Church, Oakton Wine Shop, Wegmans (various locations). Hartford Court Pinot Noir 2011 ..1 / 2 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $40 This wine, from the Green Valley subsection of the Russian River Valley appellation, showcases the dark-fruit character of pinot noir from this region, with Bing cherry and black berry flavors. Monument/Republic National: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Harry.s Reserve Fine Wine & Spirits, Pearson.s, Wagshal.s Deli, Whole Foods Market (P Street); on the list at Marcel.s. Available in Maryland at Balducci.s, Beer Wine & Co. and Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda; Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits and Bin 201 in Annapolis; Bin 604 Wine Sellers and the Wine Source in Baltimore; Highland Wine & Spirits; Montgomery County Dispensary in Potomac; Roots Market in Olney; the Wine Rack in Ocean City. On the list at Black.s and Grapeseed in Bethesda. Available in Virginia at Out of Site Wines in Vienna, the Tasting Room Wine Bar & Shop in Reston; on the list at L.Auberge Chez Fran�ois in Great Falls. Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay 2011 Russian River Ranches .. Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $22 Sonoma-Cutrer has had success in marketing its chardonnays for restaurants. This single-vineyard wine from its estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley is an example. Washington Wholesale/Reliable Churchill: On the list in the District at BLT Steak, Bullfeathers, Georgia Brown.s, the Monocle, Paolo.s, Rosa Mexicano (Chevy Chase), Sea Catch. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *