Monday, April 16, 2012
Chef Goff Heading a Restaurant—For a Short Time
*By Jason Ross*
[image: Chef Goff Heading a Restaurant—For a Short
Time]<http://www.minnesotamonthly.com/media/Blogs/Twin-Cities-Taste/Apri…
Chef Ken Goff will be cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary
School<http://www.chefs.edu/minneapolis-st-paul>’s
restaurant,
Technique<http://www.techniquerestaurant.com/locations/minneapolis.html&…,
for the next five weeks. Do not miss the chance to try his food.
In 2005, Goff left his position at the Dakota Jazz
Club<http://dakotacooks.com/>after 20 years and started teaching the
next generation of chefs as a
culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu–coincidentally, just a few months
before I started teaching there myself. Since that time, he has taught just
about every class the school has to offer. Now, he’s teaching and cooking
in the school’s student-staffed restaurant until May 16.
Chef Goff has an illustrious past. In 1995, I was a line cook at D’Amico
Cucina <http://www.damico.com/>, the flagship restaurant for the growing
D’Amico restaurant group in Minneapolis. I worked on the garde manger
station (that’s a fancy way of saying I made salads), which was one step
above prep cook and a mere two steps above plongeur (that’s a fancy way of
saying dishwasher). Meanwhile, Ken Goff was already one of our region’s
most influential chefs. In 1985, he opened the Dakota, as its executive
chef, and by ’95 had long since been highlighted in the *New York Times*, *Los
Angeles Times*, *Gourmet*, and numerous other national publications, as a
leader of the Midwest dining scene.
He and a few other pioneering local chefs, like Lucia Watson of
Lucia’s<http://www.lucias.com/>,
and Brenda Langton of Spoonriver <http://spoonriver.com/>, laid the
groundwork for our current Twin Cities dining scene. Their menus were
amongst the first in Minnesota to specialize in local and seasonal foods.
Goff was quoted in the *Los Angeles Times* saying, “we don’t swim here in
January, and we don’t eat strawberries then either.” Signature dishes like
Brie and apple soup and turkey potpie with yam sauce formed a menu the *New
York Times* called “familiar with a twist.”
For Goff, ideas in cooking always matter. When teaching, he quotes
Escoffier’s culinary compendium, *Le Guide Culinaire*, like it’s scripture,
and speaks to students about it as if he and Escoffier were intimate
friends, telling them, “Escoffier knew cooking would change, he knew we
would have to adjust.”
He built a restaurant with ideas and rules in mind at the Dakota. As the
club showcased a Minnesota jazz scene, he showcased Minnesota ingredients
and was quoted in the *Great Chef *series saying, “I want the restaurant to
reflect what the people in this region like to eat. That is what regional
means to me.” He established relationships with farmers and was one the
first chefs here to see the benefit of our local bounty.
Thanks to people like Ken Goff, who celebrated Midwestern cuisine for its
own sake, we enjoy a dining scene now recognized on a national level,
garnering our state 16 James Beard cooking award nominations this year.
If you like our local dining community, then come check out a chef who
helped put us on the map. When you do, tell him Jason sent you, or better
yet, scoot down the hall to my class and say “hi.”
**
*Technique Restaurant*
*Technique gives students real world experience with paying customers.
Students work in all aspects of the restaurant’s operations. They cook,
wait tables, answer phones, and help develop daily menu specials. They
serve a three-course meal focused on seasonal ingredients and highlight
cooking technique as a way to showcase the students' education and learned
skills. The restaurant sits at the far corner of the school’s Mendota
Heights campus.*
*Technique Restaurant*
1315 Mendota Heights Road, Mendota Heights
Seating from 5:30-7 p.m.
Tuesday-Friday
Reservations recommended
651-286-2400
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2012 in
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