FYI/FYE. Nice interactive map at the site. Does Southwest Airlines fly to SFO? C, J Tasting rooms worthy of more than 3 cheers Jon Bonne, Chronicle Wine Editor Sunday, March 22, 2009 The French-owned Roederer Estate winery creates sparkling... Peju Province Winery is known for a tasting-room employee... It's been over a half-century since Napa Valley's first tasting room opened its doors at Charles Krug, and for decades since, we've been heading to Wine Country for visits. The Chronicle has been reviewing winery tasting rooms since 2002, trying to help readers get the most out of their day in Napa, Sonoma or Mendocino - or Oakland, Livermore or the Santa Cruz Mountains. Certainly we spend enough time critiquing wine, but reviewing a tasting room is a different endeavor. The wines may be fine, but are there enough spots at the counter? Will it be an hour of unrepentant glitz, studious sniffing or a rustic bash? Can the staff tell you just how the Merlot was made? And at the same time do they make you feel welcome, or are they reminding you - for the fourth time - that you really, really, really want to join the wine club? Everyone wants something different from their tasting-room visit, so we've selected a cross section of top tasting rooms all over Northern California, based on a combination of recent reviews and staff experiences. Much more important than the wine, all of these should leave you thinking they were worth the trip. We've mostly focused on those venues that don't require an appointment, so unless otherwise noted, these should be ready for a walk-in visit. Because hours and fees change frequently and by the season, and some activities require reservations, call ahead. A: Good for connoisseurs B: Picnic area C: Fee for tasting D: Focus on pairings, or food available E: Tour available F: Sparkling wine G: Great views or architecture Napa Artesa The artwork, fountain and panoramic views at this modish winery, designed with a modern Spanish sensibility by cava house Cordoniu, are reason to detour. 1345 Henry Road, Napa. (707) 224-1668, artesawinery.com C,E,G Castello di Amorosa Lest you think the medieval looks of this newly erected castle serve as facade, the authentic dungeon says otherwise. 4045 N. St. Helena Highway, Calistoga. (707) 967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com C,E,G Charles Krug Winery Napa Valley's first winery, now owned by the Peter Mondavi family, has revitalized itself. The newly renovated carriage house is a glimpse back into valley history. 2800 Main St., St. Helena. (707) 967-2200, charleskrug.com B,C Chimney Rock Winery The wines are no-nonsense, the staff is knowledgeable, and you'll feel properly refined at this gorgeous spot near Stags Leap. 5350 Silverado Trail, Napa. (800) 257-2641, chimneyrock.com A,C,D,E, Domaine Carneros Winery Settle in on the terrace of this replica chateau and feel like royalty as you gaze over Carneros and enjoy table service. 1240 Duhig Road, off Highway 121, Napa. (800) 716-2788, domainecarneros.com C,D,E,F Domaine Chandon Though it's one of the larger sparkling-wine houses, Chandon takes the time to explain its wines and put them in context. The Etoile restaurant is on site as well. 1 California Drive, Yountville. (707) 944-2280, chandon.comC,D,E,F Folio Winemakers Studio A chance to check out Michael Mondavi's portfolio of wines from around the world in an inviting, bright setting that keeps the focus on winemaking. Ditto at the small Enoteca in the Oxbow Market in downtown Napa. 1285 Dealy Lane, near Henry Road. Napa. (707) 256-2757, foliowinemakersstudio.comB,C,E Hall Napa Valley Texas tycoon Craig Hall and wife Kathryn, a former ambassador, not only set the bar high for their Napa project but commissioned Frank Gehry to design a groundbreaking new facility, due in about a year. 401 S. St. Helena Highway (Highway 29), St. Helena. (707) 967-2626, hallwines.com B,C,E,G Mason Cellars It's all about Sauvignon Blanc from veteran vintner Randy Mason at this downtown Napa storefront. 714 First St. (at McKinstry), Napa. (707) 255-0658, masoncellars.com Merryvale Vineyards Hospitality is a major focus at this St. Helena property. For a bite, Taylor's Refresher is across the street. 1000 Main St., St. Helena. (707) 963-7777, merryvale.comC,E Peju Province Winery Peju's famous in-house yodeler makes for memorable visits. 8466 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford. (707) 963-3600, peju.com B,C,D,E Robert Sinskey Vineyards Crowds aside, Rob Sinskey's eco-friendly winery puts the wines in context with food. (Sinskey's wife is a chef and cookbook author.) 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa. (707) 944-9090, robertsinskey.com A,C,D,E Sawyer Cellars Lesser known, but one of the friendliest stops in Rutherford. 8350 St. Helena Highway (Highway 29), Rutherford. (707) 963-1980, sawyercellars.com C,E Stag's Leap Wine Cellars This history-making winery is serious-minded, but a great place to learn about how top Cabernet is made. 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa. (707) 944-2020, cask23.com A,C,E Sutter Home Winery The home of white Zin is a populist haven in the heart of wine-snob heaven. 277 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena. (707) 963-3104, sutterhome.com Sonoma B.R. Cohn Winery The Doobie Brothers' manager keeps it mellow at his longtime Glen Ellen property. Try the olive oil tasting. 15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen. (707) 938-4064, brcohn.com B,C,D,E Benziger Family Winery A busy but serious focus on farming and grape growing, right down to the tram tour of biodynamic vineyards. (Cow horns not included.) 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen. (707) 935-4527, benziger.com A,B,C,E Cline Cellars Ponds and gardens make this a popular stop to wrap up the day. The California Missions Museum is on site. 24737 Arnold Drive (Highway 121), Sonoma; (707) 940-4000, www.clinecellars.com B,E Chateau St. Jean Winery One of Sonoma's most beautiful properties, with seemingly endless tasting and picnic options. 8555 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12), Kenwood. (707) 833-4134, chateaustjean.comB,C,E David Coffaro Vineyard & Winery A very low-key, personable reminder of Dry Creek in more relaxed times. 7485 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville. (707) 433-9715, coffaro.com A Gundlach Bundschu Winery At 151 years old, this rustic-looking winery retains its whimsy without being silly. Try the Gewurztraminer and Tempranillo. 2000 Denmark St. (at Napa Road), Sonoma. (707) 939-3105, gunbun.comB,C,E Iron Horse Ranch and Vineyards One of Sonoma's most beautiful wine-tasting spots, and never snooty. Yes, you can even dump your leftover bubbly (if there is any) on the ground. 9786 Ross Station Road (off Highway 116), Sebastopol. (707) 887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com A,C,E,F,G J Vineyards & Winery A special sit-down food pairing (though pricey) puts this noted bubbly maker's wines in context. 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg. (707) 431-3646, jwine.com C,D,E,F Korbel Champagne Cellars Not the fanciest wine, but a one-stop shop for casual visitors, including tours of the cellars and rose garden, and a full-service deli. 13250 River Road, Guerneville. (707) 824-7000, korbel.com D,E,F Kunde Estate Winery The gorgeous setting doesn't trip up a casual vibe maintained by this family-run property.9825 Highway 12, Kenwood. (707) 833-5501, kunde.com B,D,E, Larson Family Winery With farm animals and more, one of the few wineries that offers ways to keep the juice-box set occupied. 23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma; (707) 938-3031, larsonfamilywinery.com. B,C Papapietro Perry Co-located with several other winery tasting rooms, you can try through top Pinots with one of the most fun-loving tasting-room crews around. 4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-0422, papapietro-perry.com A,B,C Preston of Dry Creek Lou Preston's farmhouse-like facility is the cure for when you think all wineries are theme parks. 9282 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-3372, prestonofdrycreek.com B,C Seghesio Family Vineyards The quintessential Sonoma winery experience from one of the area's best-known families. 14730 Grove St., Healdsburg. (707) 433-3579, seghesio.com B,C,D Mendocino Goldeneye Duckhorn's Pinot Noir division hosts visitors in a manner both stately and cozy, with fantastic Anderson Valley views. 9200 Highway 128, Philo. (707) 895-3202, goldeneyewinery.com B,C,E,G, Handley Cellars Milla Handley's tasting room is always filled with offbeat art and visitors. A chance to taste one of California's benchmark Gewurztraminers. 3151 Highway 128, Philo. (707) 895-3876, handleycellars.com A,B Navarro This Alsatian-varietal pioneer has a loyal following for good reason: Its staff is some of the most personable behind any tasting-room bar. 5601 Highway 128, Philo. (800) 537-9463, navarrowine.com B,E Roederer Estate This remote outpost of a top Champagne house is friendly but focused on wines; they serve their brut from magnum so you can compare the effect of larger bottles. 4501 Highway 128, Philo. (707) 895-2288. roedererestate.com A,C,E Other regions JC Cellars/Dashe Cellars This duo set amid the warehouses of Oaktown offers a one-two punch in the same location. You can BART home. 55 Fourth St., Oakland. (510) 465-5900, jccellars.com and www.dashecellars.com C,E Mitchell Katz Winery A stylish re-creation of the historic property makes for a regal visit to this Petite Sirah specialist. 1188 Vineyard Ave., Pleasanton. (925) 931-0744, mitchellkatzwinery.com B,C, E Ridge Vineyards It's a long drive up, but one visit to this original Ridge location explains why its Monte Bello wines are so unique. 17100 Montebello Road, Cupertino. (408) 867-3233. A,G Also: 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-7721. ridgewine.com B Sobon Estate The Sobon family and their range of Zins help visitors to understand Sierra Foothills terroir. 14430 Shenandoah Road, Plymouth (Amador County). (209) 245-6554, sobonwine.com B Terre Rouge & Easton Wines (Domaine de la Terre Rouge) Bill Easton and his Zinfandel and Rhone-style wines all but define Amador's wine potential. Perfect intro to Amador. 10801 Dickson Road, off Shenandoah Road, Plymouth. (209) 245-4277, terrerougewines.com A,B,D,E St. George Spirits The lineup of St. George and Hangar One spirits (absinthe, eaux de vie and more) on the grounds of Alameda's old naval yard. 2601 Monarch St., Alameda. (510) 769-1601. stgeorgespirits.com B,C,E Wente Vineyards Estate Winery Restaurant, golf course, summer concerts - this landmark Livermore property offers it all. 5565 Tesla Road, Livermore. (925) 456-2300 , wentevineyards.com B,C,E Etiquette Miss Manners might be shocked by what transpires on the wine roads. After polling veteran tasting-room staff, we devised some basic rules of thumb: -- Taste, don't gulp. You're there to try new wines and learn more about winemaking. If you want to drink, there are marvelous new establishments known as bars. Don't be afraid to spit. -- Hydrate. Pack plenty of water, and drink it. -- Don't take the glassware. Unless it's part of the tasting fee, they're loaners - even if you're picnicking. -- Call ahead, especially for large groups. Some wineries require reservations for tables or patio space. Others have space limits. You might also be able to arrange a tour. -- Be scent-sible. Go without the perfume and cologne for the day. It can be distracting to fellow visitors. -- Don't bring outside booze. Even if you're having a picnic, one reason wineries provide space is that they're attracting customers. Buy some of their wine to open. Leave the beer at home. -- Don't fake a wine club membership. Staff are often trained to root out impostors. -- Choose your venue. Some wineries are designed to be more formal; some are flip-flop territory. Do a bit of advance research to find one that matches the experience you want. Key A: Good for connoisseurs B: Picnic area C: Fee for tasting D: Focus on pairings, or food available E: Tour available F: Sparkling wine G: Great views or architecture Interactive map at SFGate.com For a Google map of the tasting rooms listed here, go to sfgate.com/maps/tastingrooms http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/03/22/TRVL16BUSQ.DTL This article appeared on page G - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *