Something Old, Something New By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, June 10, 2009 Much debate about wine today (and yes, you rather have to be obsessed with wine to follow the discourse) centers on the modern vs. the traditional. Modernization is said to be the enemy of traditional wine, creating a global sameness that strips variety and interest from our daily tipple. But sometimes modernization can be the savior of the traditional. Consider Spanish white wines, for instance. After the phylloxera root louse decimated Europe's vineyards in the late 1800s, most white-grape-bearing vineyards in northern and northwestern Spain were replanted with phylloxera- resistant hybrid varieties or the high-yielding palomino, which does wonders when fortified in sherry but renders an insipid table wine. It's easy to understand why: With their livelihoods ruined, growers naturally opted for more reliable grape varieties. When Spain's wine renaissance took hold in the 1970s and '80s, vintners began planting the traditional vines again and making their wines using modern techniques such as temperature control and fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. Everything old was new again. That's why white wines such as albariñgodello and verdejo are increasingly popular today as alternatives to the ubiquitous chardonnay. These three grape varieties are the headliners of Spanish whites, leading a list that includes such obscure grapes as viura, xarello and hondaribbi zuri (the main grape of a Basque wine called Txakoli). Anyone trying to cross off names from a list of grape varieties tasted should spend time savoring Spanish white wines. Albariñolds pride of place among Spanish whites. It hails from Rias Baixas in Galicia, in the country's northwestern corner, centered on the city of Santiago de Compostela. Albariñ flavors have been compared to those of Riesling and Viognier, with an emphasis on apricot and peach flavors and bracing acidity plus generous alcohol levels (around 13 percent) that give it rich body. One fanciful story (discredited by DNA testing) would have us believe albariñs indeed Riesling, brought to Spain by German pilgrims. Albariñ popularity has led to its migration to the United States; two D.C. area wineries, Chrysalis Vineyards in Virginia and Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland, make excellent versions. "In albariñ you can find aromas of apricots, white flowers, sea salt, oyster shells, tropical fruits and minerals," said Aurelio Cabestrero, former sommelier at Taberna del Alabardero and Marcel's in Washington. "They pair well with oysters, sushi, all kinds of seafood and even taste good by themselves." He is the region's leading importer of his native country's wines under his Grapes of Spain label. Godello is another indigenous grape from Galicia, though it has not become as fashionable as albariñThe best godello wines hail from Valdeorras, in the eastern part of Galicia, which is more inland than Rias Baixas and protected from the maritime influences by mountain ranges. Aromatic and mineral, godello gives wines of impressive structure and finesse. Cabestrero finds "jasmine and honeysuckle, with more weight than a typical albariñ While albariñnd godello strive for aristocracy among Spanish white grapes, verdejo celebrates the commoner. Verdejo is the main white grape of the Rueda region in northwestern Spain, where it produces enticing wines reminiscent of sauvignon blanc, with its grassiness and fresh herbal flavors. A good verdejo smells like Colonial Williamsburg on a cool spring evening after a cleansing rain, with boxwood and ivy breathing heavily in the musky night air. Rueda wines often blend verdejo with viura, another Spanish white grape that is the mainstay of white Rioja. Keswick Vineyards, near Charlottesville, makes an excellent verdejo. Most Spanish white wines on our shelves today are made in the modern style, with temperature- controlled fermentation and other techniques designed to preserve acidity and freshness. But occasionally we can still find wines in a more traditional, oxidative style, especially from Rioja, a region that is reaching for a balance between the modern and traditional styles with its more famous red wines. Two wines topping today's recommendations illustrate the contrast of modern and traditional styles. The Lagar de Cervera Albariñ007 is fresh and vibrant, fermented in temperature- controlled stainless-steel tanks to preserve its freshness and acidity. It shows lime, apricot and peach flavors -- an orchard in a glass -- followed by a long and complex finish. The Medrano Irazu 2005 white Rioja, made entirely with viura, is traditionally styled. It is fermented in oak barrels with a daily stirring of the lees to give it complexity and body, enhanced by extended bottle aging. This wine shows oxidation; it could easily seem over the hill to drinkers accustomed to the modern, stainless-steel style of white wines, yet it is vibrant and lively in the glass. Its flavors are more earthy and mineral than fruity. Ironically, Medrano Irazu is not an old winery; it was founded in 1985. Its white Rioja is another example of the modern and traditional blurring in Spain. Dave McIntyre can be reached through http://www.dmwineline.com or food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, June 10, 2009 The retail market is behind the eight ball on Spanish whites, and many of these are primarily available in restaurants. Lagar de Cervera Albariñ007 *** Rias Baixas, Spain, $23 Fresh, intense and vibrant, this wine shows more complexity than most albariñ combining citrus and orchard fruit flavors. It is not for fans of subtlety. Bacchus: available in the District at Broad Branch Market, Wide World of Wines; on the list at Cork Wine Bar, Jaleo, Posto, PS 7's, Zengo. On the list in Maryland at Clyde's Tower Oaks. Medrano Irazu Barrel Fermented White 2005 ** 1/2 Rioja, Spain, $20 This wine shows some age, with oxidized orchard fruit, earthy minerality and good complexity. Authorities in Rioja recently approved use of international varieties such as chardonnay and sauvignon blanc to make their region's viura wines more fruity to meet consumer demand. This 100 percent viura speaks for maintaining traditional purity. Potomac Selections: available in the District at Ace Beverage; on the list in Virginia at 2941, Willow. Amestoi Txakoli 2007 ** Getariako, Spain, $20 Bacchus: on the list in the District at Proof, Sei. Guitian Godello Joven 2006 ** Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, $18 Delicious and complex, this has peach and apricot and just a hint of the tree to give it interest. Winebow: available in the District at Calvert Woodley, MacArthur Beverages; on the list at Mendocino Grille & Wine Bar. Basa Blanco 2007 ** Rueda, Spain, $11 Monument: available in the District at 1 West Dupont Circle, MacArthur Beverages, Paul's of Chevy Chase; on the list at various Clyde's and Chef Geoff's restaurants, Cafe Salsa, Creme Cafe, Veritas Wine Bar. Nessa Albariñ008 * 1/2 Rias Baixas, Spain, $15 A delicious example of albariñthis will appeal to Riesling lovers with its crisp acidity, apricot flavors and perfect balance. Grapes of Spain/Elite: available in the District at Pearson's, Whole Foods Market Glover Park; on the list at Bistro Napoleon, Cashion's Eat Place, Ceiba. Available in Maryland at Calvert Wine & Spirits in Cockeystown, the Wine Cellar in Annapolis, the Wine Source in Baltimore; on the list at Jalapeñin Annapolis and La Tasca in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Au Domaine in Alexandria, Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean, Whole Foods Market in Vienna; on the list at Hank's Oyster Bar in Alexandria, Panache Restaurant in Tysons Corner. Prado Rey Birlocho 2008 * 1/2 Rueda, Spain, $10 It's racy and grassy, sort of like a Riesling-sauvignon blanc cross, combining apricot, passion fruit and melon flavors. Delicious wine. New to the market. Touton: available in the District at Paul's of Chevy Chase, Watergate Wine & Spirits; available in Maryland at Country Boy in Wheaton, Franklin's General Store in Hyattsville; available in Virginia at Ashburn Wine Shop, Whole Foods Market Vienna. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *