This year, break the bubble barrier with something new By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, December 9, 2009 For most of us, champagne is a special-occasion drink, raised as a New Year's toast and sipped at weddings or landmark birthdays. It is too expensive to be an everyday tipple, and because we drink it only rarely we tend to stick with the familiar labels of the big champagne houses. Even if you don't drink it much, you've probably heard or seen at least some of these large-house names: Veuve Clicquot, Moë& Chandon, Mumm's, Taittinger, Pommery, Bollinger. These brands and others offer reliable quality, even if sometimes at premium prices. And these large houses produce enough champagne so that you can walk into just about any wine store and find something worth drinking. But this year, if you're willing to splurge on a nice bottle of bubbly for the holidays, I encourage you to move beyond the familiar and try something new. (I'll have some bargain bubblies to recommend next week.) There are two ways to do that. First, seek out small, artisanal champagne producers that might seem to be risky because their names are unknown. Though their prices can match those of the familiar brands, these small grower-producers often offer exceptional value. That's because many grow their own grapes and have total control over the winemaking from vineyard to bottle. The vast majority of champagne is produced by large houses that buy grapes from family farmers. Unfortunately, small-grower champagne is hard to find because there isn't much of it. You can identify a small grower by looking for a code imprinted on the front label in infinitesimally small letters. (You can spot a wine nerd in the champagne aisle; he's the one peering closely at the label while moving his eyeglasses up and down.) If the code begins with "RM" or "SR," it means that producer farmed his or her own grapes. "NM" means that at least some of the grapes used by the winery were purchased. While RM or SR generally means you have something unusual and potentially very special, NM is not an indicator of inferiority. Many small houses buy grapes as part of their business plan and still manage to produce outstanding champers. Ask your trusted retailer for suggestions. The second way to break through the familiar bubble barrier is to move beyond champagne to some of the ultra-premium sparkling wines from elsewhere in the world. We flinch at paying champagne prices for bubbly from California or New Zealand, for example, but some of those match similarly priced champagnes for quality and complexity. (If the champagne lover sitting next to you just keeled over in apoplexy, it's because he hasn't read the next sentence yet.) They just manage that with New World exuberance rather than old-fashioned French style. So this holiday season, think of toasting the New Year and its potential by embracing the unknown and trying something new. McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, http://www.dmwineline.com, or at food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, December 9, 2009 Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Joséichel et Fils Brut Special Club 2002 *** Champagne, France, $62 This wine shows amazing finesse, with an appealing honey flavor though it's not sweet. After tasting several sparkling wines, I kept getting pulled back to this bottle. Wine Traditions: available in the District at Cork Market; on the list at Cork Wine Bar. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington. Legras & Haas Cuvee Prestige Grand Cru Vielles Vignes *** Champagne, France, $90 It's a definite splurge, but this wine is beguiling. Initially deceptive, it develops complexity with every sip. It features appealing aromas of autumn and winter; I thought of freshly cut pumpkin (the smell you get when carving a jack-o'-lantern), though my wife thought I was nuts. Murray-Sikes Selection/Nice Legs: on the list in the District at BlackSalt, Cedar. Available in Maryland at Cork & Fork in Bethesda; on the list at Grapeseed in Bethesda. Exclusive Wine Imports: available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Ashburn Wine Shop, the Butcher's Block and Rick's Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Maison du Vin in Great Falls, Wine Seller in Herndon. Guy Charlemagne Grand Cru Reserve Blanc de Blancs Brut ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $51 William-Harrison: available in the District at Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder's, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Whole Foods Market Glover Park. Available in Virginia at Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean, Whole Foods Market Reston, Wine Seller in Herndon; on the list at L'Auberge Chez Françs. Jean Vesselle Brut Reserve ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $43 Rich and fat, with lots of toast; with food, it comes into focus. Very stylish wine. Dionysus: available in the District at Whole Foods Market Tenleytown; on the list at Restaurant Nora. Available in Maryland at Balducci's in Bethesda, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits in Baltimore; on the list at Tavira in Chevy Chase. Available in Virginia at Balducci's in McLean and Alexandria, Rick's Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Vienna Vintner, Ellwood Thompson's Local Market in Richmond. No. 1 Family Estate Cuvee No. 1 ** 1/2 Marlborough, New Zealand, $36 Made by a Champagne winemaker transplanted to New Zealand's Marlborough region, this all-chardonnay blanc de blancs is stylish, fruity and rich, with a whiff of smoke to give it complexity. Bravo! New to this market. Nice Legs: available in the District at D'Vines, De Vinos; available in Virginia at the Organic Butcher of McLean, Vienna Vintner, Wine Seller in Herndon. Vve Fourny & Fils Premier Cru Grande Reserve Brut ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $40 Delicate and creamy, with great style and finesse, this wine provides an elegant backdrop for food or a special event, without intruding. Kermit Lynch/Simon 'N' Cellars: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Potomac Wine & Spirits; available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Fern Street Gourmet and Unwined in Alexandria, the Vineyard in McLean. Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2006 ** North Coast, California, $38 Chardonnay with bubbles and no oak, stylishly produced by one of California's oldest sparkling-wine houses. Bacchus: available in the District at Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Trader Joe's; on the list at Againn and BlackSalt. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food and Beverage in Bethesda, FineWine.com in Gaithersburg, Corridor Wine & Spirits in Laurel, Wells Discount Liquors in Baltimore, Wine Cellar in Annapolis; on the list at the Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels. Duval-Leroy Brut ** Champagne, France, $40 Bright and full, tasting like it's dominated by chardonnay. This is a leading house, though not by any means a "small grower," in the Cotes des Blancs region of Champagne. Duval-Leroy has not had representation in our market for a few years but was recently picked up by International Cellars. International Cellars: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Bacchus Wine Cellar, Bell Wine & Spirits, Calvert Woodley, Modern Liquors, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Tunnel Fine Wine & Spirits, Whole Foods Market Glover Park, Wine Specialist; on the list at Adour, Et Voila, Montmartre, Oval Room, Oya, Proof. Alfred Gratien Brut ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $50 The red grapes (pinot noir and pinot meunier) shine through with a minerally, red fruit character. This wine nicely combines toast and yeasty flavors that give heft with delicacy and finesse. Domaine Select/Bacchus: available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Wide World of Wines; on the list at Poste. Available in Maryland at Chesapeake Wine Co. in Baltimore, State Line Liquors in Elkton, Wine Merchant in Lutherville. Ch. Gardet & Co. Brut ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $58 New to this market, it impresses with richness and body, yet a delicate finish. It gets even better the next day. Bacchus: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Cork Market; on the list at Corduroy, Cork Wine Bar, Proof, Vidalia. Available in Maryland at Wine Cellar of Annapolis, DiWine Spirits in Pikesville. Domaine Chandon Etoile Brut ** 1/2 California, $40 No finesse, just joy: It's consistently one of California's top bubblies, lively and almost electric. Unfortunately, there is not much of it around. Washington Wholesale: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Calvert Woodley; on the list at Art & Soul, Enology, Kellari Taverna. Jacquesson Cuvee No. 733 ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $64 Jacquesson (pronounced pretty much like "Jackson") has a legion of fans for its rich, complex style, which comes from aging the base wine in large oak casks. Its single-vineyard champagnes, though well into the triple digits pricewise, are fantastic. This cuvee, based on the 2005 vintage, shows excellent focus and depth. Vintage 59/Winebow: available in the District at Bacchus Wine Cellar, DeVino's, Griffin Market. P&C Market; on the list at Bistro Bis, Proof, Vinoteca. Lamiable Brut Grand Cru ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $55 Rich and yeasty, this is one for those who prefer their champers on the powerful side. Kacher/Washington Wholesale: available in the District at Calvert Woodley, MacArthur Beverages; available in Virginia at Au Domaine in Alexandria. Pascal Doquet Brut Grand Cru ** 1/2 Champagne, France, $67 Powerful, rich and long on the finish, with toasty flavors. An excellent partner for rich foods. Kacher/Washington Wholesale, available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Dixie Liquor, Rodman's; on the list at Marcel's. Available in Virginia at Au Domaine in Alexandria. Haton & Fils Brut Chardonnay Premier Cru, Cuvee Renéaton ** Champagne, $48 This has very nice, delicate chardonnay fruit with good balance and finesse. William Harrison: available in the District at MacArthur Beverages, Magruder's, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Whole Foods Market Glover Park. Available in Virginia at Wine Seller in Herndon; on the list at L'Auberge Chez Françs, the Inn at Little Washington. Jean Laurent Blanc de Noirs Brut ** Champagne, France, $50 This wine is aged on the lees for five years, compared with 1 1/2 to 2 years for most non-vintage champagnes. That gives it a little extra color and weight. Hand Picked Selections/Republic National: available in the District at Magruder's. Pierre Morlet Grande Reserve Brut Premier Cru ** Champagne, France, $50 It's yeasty, with aromas of exotic melons, excellent body and finish. Constantine: available in the District at Paul's of Chevy Chase, Schneider's of Capitol Hill. Domaine Glinavos, Poeme Cuvee Brut 2005 * 1/2 Zitsa, Greece, $39 Quite good, this is expressive in toasty flavors and body, though not as harmonious as it should be. Still, it would be a fun wine for a game of "stump the wine nerd" or to relive your Greek islands vacation. Constantine: available in the District at Paul's of Chevy Chase, Schneider's of Capitol Hill. Key *** Exceptional ** Excellent * Very Good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *