A serious state for American sparkling wine Jon Bonn� Published 1:45 pm, Friday, October 25, 2013 It's that time of year to start thinking about bubbles, and here's our head start. The state of American sparkling wine continues on the trajectory it has been following: The serious are getting seriouser - while still often remaining an astonishing value - the dry versions are getting drier and more focused, and the sweet wines are getting sweeter and more market-driven. On that last, it was notable this year just how many California efforts have removed the word "brut" from their labels, a term that in the traditional sense indicated a truly dry wine. This might be a matter of simplifying things; for years, the kvetch has been that the term confused consumers. (Honestly?) But in more cases than not, the wines have sweetened as well. Is this the continuation of a trend to make domestic bubbles just a bit sugary without discussing that fact, a sparkling equivalent to California's occasional duplicity in still wines? No one in the wine industry ever went poor by adding a bit of secret sugar, but I'd assert that it doesn't serve the ends of making a serious case for American fizz when wine marketers capitulate to their talk-dry, drink-sweet homilies. If the sweetness question has added a twinge of confusion, it's offset by a very hopeful change: the arrival of disgorgement dates on some American sparkling wines. Some quality-minded Champagne producers have long used these on nonvintage wines, both to help clue in customers on the vintage origins and how long the wine has been aged after disgorgement (the process of finishing a wine's blend and corking the bottle). Despite some industry fretting about whether customers will be confused - are they expiration dates? - these remain invaluable for those who want extra detail about a wine's provenance. More information never hurts. Roederer Estate and its sister winery, Scharffenberger, quietly began printing disgorgements on bottles late last year. As with our Champagne reviews, we'll print the disgorgement information of the bottles we taste when it's available. The Roederer posse deserves a nod for bringing a dab of extra transparency to the wine world. It can only help in our buying decisions, and it's a practice I hope their fellow wineries will adopt. 2004 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Brut Anderson Valley ($47, 12% alcohol): Not to overlook Roederer's nonvintage efforts, but its latest L'Ermitage is gorgeous. About half each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a bit of reserve wine from 2000, it has that seamless quality that also marks Roederer's best Champagnes. Fern, coriander seed and a mandarin orange freshness that matches the apple-skin texture and quince fruit. Its yeastiness is subtle and savory, like good rye bread. Should be even better in a year. Disgorged January 2013. 2009 Schramsberg Brut Ros� North Coast ($43, 13%): Hugh Davies and winemaker Keith Hock found a notable precision in their mix of fruit from across the North Coast, predominantly Pinot Noir with some fermented on skins for color. A riper fruit quality comes out on the finish, and bolsters the fresh mix of rose petal, yeast, apple and white nectarine. It's less creamy than spicy, with aspects of pecan shell and caraway. Schramsberg's NV Mirabelle Brut Ros� North Coast ($27, 12.8%), currently based on the 2010 vintage and sporting a new label, is a creamier, strawberry-flavor effort for the near term, something to put you in a Wimbledon state of mind. NV Scharffenberger Brut Ros� Excellence Mendocino County ($23, 12%): Tex Sawyer uses a nearly equal mix of Pinot and Chardonnay (with 3% still Pinot Noir for color) in a wine that is once again astonishing quality for the money - with a full two years aging on lees. Tight-knit, with great clarity to the flavors: red currant, pink grapefruit, shiso, ripe quince. A quiet marzipan richness is balanced by a dew-drop freshness. There's a subtle tannin from the still Pinot Noir that adds texture to the finish. Disgorged November 2012. 2009 Argyle Knudsen Vineyard Julia Lee's Block Blanc de Blancs Brut Dundee Hills ($50, 12.5%): An all-Chardonnay effort that, while opulent, shows more precision than Argyle often has in recent years. A fine bead and savory aspects of mustard seed and almond add to tangerine and Fuji apple flavors. 2007 Domaine Chandon Vintage Brut Mount Veeder ($45, 12.5%): Chandon's efforts seem sweeter and more soft-edged these10/28/13 A serious state for American sparkling wine- SFGate www.sfgate.com/wine/wineselections/article/A-serious-state-for-American-spa… 2/2 days, but their single-appellation bottlings show a particular snapshot of their widespread winemaking efforts. From their Veeder vineyard planting at 1,300 feet, this was aged at least four years, and it shows a dark-mineral power that's typical of mountain Chardonnay (93 percent of the blend) in Napa, plus toast, sorrel, quince and plum skin. NV Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Carneros Sparkling ($22, 12.5): With 8 percent Chardonnay, it's not purely a Blanc de Noirs in the classic sense, but it is a great expression of Pinot Noir from this part of the world, with a touch of rose in for a vague tint. Tangy and full of sweet mandarin orange and raspberry flavors, and a fleshy red apple side. This is about juicy fruit - despite 18 months on lees, the yeast presence is a modest one - plus a peppermint-like nuance. 2004 Iron Horse Brut LD Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($85, 13.5%): Time, plus in this case a low dosage and long stay on the lees, has added finesse to Iron Horse's forthcoming late-disgorged effort. A subtle yeast character to Bosc pear, walnut skin and tangerine. 2009 Woodenhead Naturale Russian River Valley Sparkling ($46, 11.6%): Woodenhead's fizz, curiously based on French Colombard, remains a papery, crisp effort that's the perfect choice for oysters. A mineral kick defines it, with lemon zest, wet stones and thyme accents, and an intense green-apple freshness. Priced ambitiously, given the base material, but a unique Russian River expression. Jon Bonn� is The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. 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