Fall colors have just begun on the south shore of Lake Superior. Bring bug spray. Cheers, Jim The Chronicle Recommends: Muscadet Jon BonnéSunday, August 29, 2010 2009 Clos de la Chapelle Muscadet Sevre Et Maine Sur Lie ... 2009 Harmonie cuvee Muscadet Sevre Et Maine Sur Lie in Sa... 2008 Domaine Pierre de la Grange Muscadet Sevre Et Maine ... 2009 Domaine Du Haut Bourg Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu Su... More... Both because it's the time when San Franciscans finally get a dose of sunshine, and because September's arrival means full-bore oyster season, let's dwell for a moment on Muscadet, the Loire's minerally wonder wine. How such a neutral grape as Melon de Bourgogne can become an expression of site and depth is a tribute to the soils and determination of the farmers of the Nantais. Oysterwise, there are plenty of other options, of course. Sauvignon Blanc has been a rising star, though when we recently considered diving into the realms of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumés part of a larger Loire consideration, we realized that Sauvignon Blanc is, price-wise, in an odd place. For Muscadet, 2009 is one of those wonder vintages, beautifully ripe, enough so to win over skeptics. Top producers made dramatic and age-worthy bottles in 2009, words not generally attached to a wine often destined for a simple carafe. So these remain some of the best values in wine. Enjoy as you seek out a long-awaited dose of sun. 2009 Gilbert Chon Clos de la Chapelle Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($13): The Chon family has been working this part of the Loire since the early 1700s, and Gilbert Chon finds an unusual intensity in the Melon grape. So young it still has a bit of spritz, and a distinctly lemony, fresh profile, with more edge than leesy richness. Precision and a minerally, salty kick provide focus. Clean and stony, with ripeness from the vintage and a depth that evokes far more complex grapes. (Importer: Winewise) 2009 Herve & Nicolas Choblet Domaine du Haut Bourg Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu Sur Lie ($15): Herve took over his family's property in 1993 in the lesser-known Grandlieu region, southwest of the Sevre et Maine area, with richer soils and often riper wines. A classic salty Muscadet, with peach-like ripeness toward the end and a firm, dark-stone mineral edge. More muscular and rich, with a gush of lemony acidity to finish. (Importer: Beaune Imports) 2009 Louis Metaireau Domaine du Grand Mouton Carte Noire Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($18): The Metaireaus have become major players in the region, with some 75 acres in vine. This classic effort from their Grand Mouton property opens with a distinct flintiness, more ripe flavors of pear and Meyer lemon, and a jasmine tea accent. Slightly later harvesting gives it a bit of extra weight, and just a bit more stuffing on the palate. (Importer: Martine's Wines) 2009 Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($13): Michel and Nathalie Delhommeau get this cuvee from a single parcel of older vines grown on lava-based rock. A lean, steely profile, with its leesiness showing at the end amid a burst of ripe guava. The mineral notes are chalky and salty, and there's an immediate refreshment to it. (Importer: Jean-David Headrick Selections) 2007 Luneau-Papin Le L d'Or Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($24): Luneau-Papin often holds back its top-end L d'Or bottling, mostly because it is one of those Muscadets that can easily evolve and improve for a decade. Still showing a young leesy richness right now. Accents of lavender and sea salt mark a sort of pillowy, ethereal presence on the nose. But as it gets a bit of air, its full mineral-packed power comes into clear view. Will keep improving. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections) 2009 Marc Ollivier Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($14): The classic white bottling of Ollivier remains a benchmark for Muscadet. The ripeness on the nose shows off like salted apricots, with lavender, hay, citrus and a soapstone mineral quality. Ripe, focused and absolutely packed with mineral fulfillment. For even more depth, seek out Ollivier's Clos des Briords ($17) from 1930-era vines planted on schist; one of the best deals in white wine, it routinely improves over several years. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections) Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. E-mail him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/08/29/FDLN1F38B0.DTL This article appeared on page K - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *