[wine] Aussie Gems

FYI/FYE http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/wine/detail?&entry_id=39786 8 undiscovered Australian gems The Chronicle Not many corks in this bunch. As I write in this week's Thirst column, Australians are starting a push to convince us that we need to think of their wines in terms of regionality and terroir. Fair point. The problem is that when you hit the shelves, the major brands have so dominated the Australian story that finding small, distinctive wines has up to now largely been a wonky, courageous and often foolhardy quest. There are a handful of U.S. retailers who have made these wines their business, notably Chuck Hayward at San Francisco's Jug Shop and the Southern Hemisphere Wine Center down in Huntington Beach. These are folks who look beyond the Yellow Tails and the barn-burner Shirazes. Most wine folk have a few obscure Aussie favorites on their mental lists. Mine include Grosset's Polish Hill Riesling and Tahbilk Marsanne, plus a few you'll find below. But many rarely or never see these shores, like Wendouree, a Clare Valley icon unlikely to hit U.S. shelves until ... well, ever. (It's a favorite of sommelier Richard Betts, whose own project is mentioned below.) Here's a handful of Australian wines that make the case for both regionality and nuance. It's an imperfect list -- Margaret River, Great Southern, Tasmania and so on aren't represented. But it's a start. 2008 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Clare Valley Riesling ($18) It's not entirely fair to call the Clare Valley a cool region; its cumulative heat isn't that far off from the Barossa. Yet it's home to some of Australia's finest Rieslings, including this perennial standout from the Barry family. On the lean, fresh side, even by Clare standards, still glinting bright green. Sharply dry, full of flint and cool stone, it hints of beautiful stone fruit. While not as plush as some years, it's far from austere. A consistent value, so also look for the '07. (Importer: Negociants USA) 2007 Betts & Scholl Eden Valley Riesling ($30) Leave it to two Americans to show off the delicacies of Australian Riesling. In this case, it's master sommelier Richard Betts and art collector Dennis Scholl, whose wine project finds outstanding lots from around the world. A subtly serious Riesling, with an oily character to the stone and petrol notes, plus lilac and citrus zest. Made in partnership with Trevor Jones, known for his Shiraz and Port-style Jonesy wines. (Importer: Betts & Scholl) 2008 Brokenwood Hunter Valley Semillon ($20) Hot, humid Hunter Valley has made its name on light, long-aging Semillon. This popular producer makes a benchmark version with fantastic aging potential. That means, of course, the 2008 is barely out of its shell, really not ready for prime time until somewhere after 2012 or so. At just 10 percent alcohol, it's very light on its feet, with chopped mint and green olive on the nose. More apple skin and a touch of peachy roundness to the taste. Precise and deft. Serve it with white-fleshed fish or greens. Or splurge for the waxy, clover-inflected 2003 ILR Reserve ($48), which receives five years of aging before relase but still has a sharp-eyed edge. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2007 Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay ($22) An appetizing pick from the chilly and largely unknown Tumbarumba area in New South Wales, located in the Australian Alps. Melon, pear and dry wood notes emerge, with some leesy depth. Somewhat upfront but plenty crisp. Aged in 60 percent new and 40 percent one-year-old French oak. (Importer: J. Pappademas Wines) 2007 Penley Estate Phoenix Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) On the very eastern edge of South Australia, abutting Victoria, Coonawarra is surprisingly cool for a region that sets a benchmark for Australian Cabernet. Its well-known red clay-limestone soils certainly help. Penley founder Kym Tolley previously spent time at Penfolds with Max Schubert, who pioneered Grange. The Phoenix is a reminder of smoky, leafy, tobacco-driven Cabernet. The gravelly cassis and plum make it subtle -- if a bit more heated (15 percent alcohol) than it might be. Terrific energy. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2005 Philip Shaw No. 89 Orange Shiraz Viognier ($42) Already mentioned as one of my most memorable wines last year, this is proof of the aromatic potential of Shiraz from the cooler parts of Victoria. The nose pops with bacon, honeysuckle and chamomile, and it's all about taut red fruit, wild blueberry and a racy profile. (Importer: Cumulus Wines) 2006 Ross Estate Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Old Vine Grenache ($22) For this little tour, I promised to stay away from more obvious locales like the Barossa. But it's worth noting that even in a region known for big, there are efforts with more brains than brawn. This Grenache from 96-year-old vines speaks softly. Perfumed and a touch tarry, it's full of plump berries, with a rich but vibrant profile. The structure is subtle, and the fruit is deliciously lifted. (Importer: Southern Starz) 2006 Yering Station Yarra Valley Pinot Noir ($19) Yarra Valley, in Victoria, is ground zero for Australian Pinot Noir, not least because it produces much of the country's better sparkling wines. Wines from this historic property have been rather hard to find on shelves of late, but it shows off the brightness of Yarra fruit, with a tight mineral structure, orange peel highlights and a minty lift. (Importer: Epic Wines) Posted By: Jon BonnéEmail) | May 09 2009 at 09:15 AM -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *