Hey, it's expensive **therefore** it's good.
THE CHRONICLE SELECTIONS: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
Lynne Char Bennett
Friday, May 9, 2008
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is highly sought after. Few wineries in this Sonoma County
appellation produce a large number of cases. Most make less than a few thousand cases - in
some cases a few hundred. The Russian River Valley appellation generally has more
production than the vineyard-designate Russian River Valley wines recommended last week.
Most of the Russian River bottlings are blends made from more than one vineyard. Some
wineries use primarily estate fruit from vineyards the winery owns; others source from
growers. In some instances, a winery specifies the vineyard(s) - some of which are quite
famous - on the bottle's back label.
Fifty-four wines were tasted in this category, which is about the same number as last
week's single-vineyard wines. Similar numbers were recommended for both - 16 this
week and 19 last week - though there were higher overall rankings for the single-vineyard
bottlings, as might be expected.
This week's Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs have lovely fruit, balancing acidity,
moderate alcohol and for the most part, modest tannins. Fewer of the wines are a challenge
to locate compared to last week's recommendations. Some are available in restaurants
and all can be purchased from the winery.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Aubin Cellars Verve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
($33) Solid basic berry with spice notes on the nose. Flavors of red cherry, raspberry,
cinnamon with nutmeg and toast come together on the fresh, bright palate. Balanced and
straightforward.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 C. Donatiello Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($48)
Cherry, ripe strawberry, a bit of sandalwood and plenty of oak spice on the nose give way
to buoyant, tart berry fruit with exotic citrus highlights; underlying mineral grip, nice
structure and increased acidity on the finish.
Rating: THREE STARS 2004 Dehlinger Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($48) This wine
completes malolactic fermentation in 40 percent new French oak. Almost pungent loamy berry
and floral notes on the nose, with hints of soy and tamarind. Ripe cherry, plum and a
suppleness on the palate belies its richness, structure and weight. This 2004 bottling -
which has been held back longer than our 2005 and 2006 recommendations - is the current
release.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 De La Montanya Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($60) Though
it isn't mentioned on the label, this reserve is from Tina's Vineyard's
best two barrels. Herb notes overlay plum, cherry, mint chocolate and orange zest aromas.
Brighter flavors with some mineral, a touch of heat and stemminess on the palate. Better
with food. Winery only.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 De Loach Vineyards OFS Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
($38) OFS stands for "our finest selection" vineyards. Plenty of candied berry,
cola and sweet oak aromas; the palate's tart acidity is balanced with dark cherry and
subtle tannic grip. Great with food.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($38)
Fruit from five of the 60 individual Dutton Ranch vineyards is in this cuvee. Toast, oak
and a slight smoky, rubber character underscore plum and creamy, cherry aromas. There is
solid, bright red fruit on the palate, which offers grippy tannins and citrus zest on the
lingering finish.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Kosta Brown Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($48) A
blend of grapes from eight vineyards. Juicy dark red berry, cola, soy sauce and tamarind
aromas and flavors; rich, intense fruit core with vibrancy and bounce on the palate, which
shows finesse but with a bit of heat on the finish.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($39)
Cherry, sweet baking spice and pretty earthy, leafy notes define the aromas. Nicely
balanced palate of black cherry, cranberry and sweet oak with a bit of minerally grip for
structure. Black-plum-skin finish. Winery only.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Lynmar Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($40) This wine
includes fruit from the estate's Quail Hill Vineyard. Lovely aromas and flavors of
buoyant cherry, red and dark fruit, and clove. Tangy and bright with a generous burst of
fruit surrounding the integrated tannins.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Papapietro Perry Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($43)
Fruit from several of the vineyards in the Papapietro Perry stable is blended into this
cuvee. Lovely earth and loamy aromas surround the floral notes and bright black cherry and
raspberry. Earthiness continues on the palate; mouthwatering acidity and ample structure.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Pellegrini Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
($35) Olivet Lane was planted to the Martini clone in 1975 and is considered to be one of
Russian River Valley's heritage Pinot Noir sites. Aromas and flavors of cherry
cobbler, jammy strawberry, cola, toast and pencil segue to a buoyant finish. An oakier
style with solid fruit.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Rochioli Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($58)
Sweetwater Vineyard fruit comprises 70 percent of the blend with the remainder from other
estate vineyards. Dusky and dusty dark fruit with a rich, ripe nose of black cherry and
black raspberry with a pretty, tapered finish.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Russian Hill Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($30) Fruit
from several small growers has gone into this bottling. Lavish oak, lemon curd and vanilla
aromas are lifted by a slight floral quality. Surprisingly lean and tart on the ripe
cherry palate with bright acidity and focused structure.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45) Allow a bit
of time for this wine to open and round its edges. A bit of gray mineral on the nose
alongside black cherry and vanilla. Food-friendly acidity on the zesty palate with spice
on the finish. Winery only.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Willowbrook Cellars Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($34) Wet leaf
and loam open up first then black raspberry and raspberry aromas. Focused palate of leafy
berry, lemon zest, tangy tamarind and a hint of soy sauce with buoyant red cherry on the
finish.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Woodenhead Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($40) A rich
but understated nose of mocha java, roasted cherry and strawberry leaf with hints of
lavender and pencil lead. A touch hefty and hot, with fresh, tart fruit and dry forest
floor on the palate.
Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon
BonnéChronicle wine editor; Chris Wright, wine educator, Boulette's Larder. For more
recommended wines, go to
sfgate.com/wine.
Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARSExcellent Rating: TWO STARS Good
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/09/WIF810F8LF.DTL
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