[wine] Affordable Good Champagne

FYI/FYE. We tasted some nice bubbles last night. Aubry and Philipponnet Royal Reserve were wonderful and priced in the 40s. Gruet Blance de Blancs is less than $15 on sale and held it's own. Schramsber was plenty good. Like Money in a Glass, but With Bubbles By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, December 17, 2008; F05 What do we pay for when we buy a bottle of expensive champagne? In "The Wine Trials," published this year by Fearless Critic Media, author Robin Goldstein describes a series of tastings in which about 60 people were asked to rate two unidentified glasses of sparkling wine. Two out of three preferred a $12 Domaine Ste. Michelle from Washington state over Dom Perignon, the famous luxury champagne that sells for $150. So if more people prefer the cheaper wine, why buy the expensive one? Goldstein concluded that when we purchase Dom (or a cult Napa cabernet or first-growth Bordeaux), we're not buying just wine but also the experience of drinking something exclusive and expensive. We enjoy the taste of money. Money seems to taste sour these days. The champagne trade association CIVC recently announced that global shipments of champagne plummeted 20 percent in October compared with the same period last year. The British wine magazine Decanter reported on its Web site that 2008 shipments -- two-thirds of which come at the end of the year -- could drop by 34 million bottles, or about 10 percent, from last year's boom. Given champagne's elite status, we would expect sales to slump during a global economic downturn as consumers turn to cheaper sparkling wines from Spain, Italy, California and elsewhere. But if champagne is what you want, there are larger houses that offer fine value at relatively low prices, especially as competition heats up with sales this time of year. And excitement in champagne is not really much more expensive, if you know where to look. Here are some tips for maximizing your champagne experience this holiday season. Ask your retailer. Specialty wine stores will carry the familiar labels (Veuve Clicquot, Moet, Mumm, Taittinger) because those are the names customers ask for. And many of them might be competitively discounted at this time of year. But your retailer might have one or two unfamiliar labels tucked to the side that represent good value for the money, so don't be afraid to ask. Look for local importers. By U.S. law, the importer must be identified on the label. Local importers specialize in finding unknown producers of high-quality wines -- from any region. Look for small growers. Champagne boasts more than 15,000 independent grape growers, many with exceedingly small parcels. Together they own 90 percent of the vineyards. However, only about 5,000 growers produce wine from their own grapes. The power (political and economic) lies with the 300 or so champagne houses that own 10 percent of the vineyards but account for two-thirds of Champagne's production and a whopping 90 percent of its exports. The large houses offer some fine products, but the small "grower champagnes" have become quite the fashion among the value-hunting set in the past decade or so. By making their own wines instead of selling to the large houses, growers can produce distinctive champagnes that taste of their own vineyards instead of seeing their grapes disappear into a larger blend that reflects a "house style" of a major brand. Consumers pay less (in theory, at least) because they aren't supporting the prestige and advertising budgets of the parent corporations. Small grower wines from highly rated vineyards -- those designated grands crus -- offer even greater value, because the quality of the fruit produces a finer expression of terroir and the winemaker's style. Those expressions can be as different as they are exciting. Pascal Doquet produces a blockbuster, in-your-face champagne that dares you not to like it. The wine from Pierre Peters is more reticent. It waits for you to notice how good it is before revealing all its secrets, like a mentor who teaches the true craft only after the student has proven worthy. Both wines cost about $50 -- not much more than the basic champagnes of the major houses -- but they taste like they cost more. They taste like money. Dave McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, http://www.dmwineline.com, or at food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, December 17, 2008; F05 Restaurants often offer your best opportunity to try grower champagnes, as they are neither in large supply nor widely available in retail stores. Here I've included some of the better larger brands as well as some grower champagnes. Pascal Doquet Grand Cru Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs *** France, $50 Small grower. From family-owned vineyards in the most famous grand cru area of Champagne, this wine features brawn over finesse, with golden color and toasty, yeasty flavors. Without the bubbles, it could pass for a classy white Burgundy. Kacher/Washington Wholesale: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Pearson's; on the list at Bourbon Steak. Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru *** France, $58 Small grower. From top-rated vineyards in the Cote des Blancs, one of the world's best areas for chardonnay, this is a delicate, flirtatious wine with hints of jasmine, ginger and sea air. One sip is inviting, the next aloof, as the bubbles nearly mask the quality of the chardonnay. It actually improves the next day as the bubbles fade, suggesting it could benefit from being decanted. The more I like this wine, the more I want it to like me. Terry Theise/Bacchus: available in the District at Chat's Liquors, Wide World of Wines; on the list at Proof, BLT Steak, Tabard Inn, Zaytinya; in Maryland, on the list at Casey Jones Restaurant in La Plata. Thierry Triolet Grande Reserve Brut ** 1/2 France, $38 Small grower. This wine hails from the Cote de Sezanne region of Champagne, which carries less cachet and therefore prompts a lower price. Triolet sold his grapes to large houses in Reims until 1985, when he began making his own wine. This blend of chardonnays from several vintages is riveting, with bright red-fruit flavors and a strong mineral structure. It's a steal. Also good: the Vielles Vignes 2004 ($42), though it will reward several years' more time in bottle. Wine Traditions: available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Grape + Bean in Alexandria; on the list at Mediteranee Restaurant in Great Falls; in the District, on the list at Cork Wine Bar. The Vielles Vignes 2004 is available at Finewines.com in Gaithersburg; in the District, on the list at Palena. Roland Champion Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru ** France, $55 Small grower. Autumn fruits -- apples and apple cider -- dominate the aromas of this wine, which is blatantly more like a wine than we normally expect a champagne to be. Some may find that unexpected and even off-putting, while others will find it intriguingly delicious. Kysela: available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Whole Foods Market P Street; available in Virginia at Rick's Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Vienna Vintner in Vienna; on the list at L'Auberge Provencale in Great Falls, Inn at Little Washington. Gosset Brut Excellence * 1/2 France, $45 Gosset is a smaller house that buys some grapes, so it does not qualify as a small grower in the trendy sense of the term. But it produces fine fizz, including this light and elegant wine that shows nice finesse and balance. Republic National: available in the District at Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Cleveland Park Wine & Liquor, Pearson's, Rodman's; on the list at BLT Steak, Central Michel Richard, Posto. Trouillard Brut Extra Selection * 1/2 France, $50 Although the national retail price of this wine is $50, it typically is sold for less in this region, often under $40 during the holidays. It offers aromas of roasted hazelnuts and flavors of red fruits. Kysela; available in the District at Bell Wine & Spirits, Magruder's, Marvelous Markets in Capitol Hill and Georgetown, Pearson's; on the list at New Heights; available in Virginia at Whole Foods Markets in Reston and Tysons Corner; on the list at L'Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls, Blackthorne Inn in Upperville. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut * France, $43 The importer lists this wine at a national retail price of $43, but it is frequently advertised in The Post at $26. At the sale price it's a good buy, with toasty red-fruit flavors (raspberry, cranberry) from the pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes in the blend. The fruit fades quickly to a somewhat sweet, caramel finish. Country Vintner: widely available. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut (Yellow Label) * France, $40 Bacchanalians love to hate this wine because it is famous and owned by the cognac-swilling fashion mavens at the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennesey Group and is therefore the very antithesis of small-grower champagne. But it's good. And it's everywhere. Washington Wholesale: widely available. Store and restaurant listings are provided by the distributors and may not be complete. Check with your favorite store for availability. Key *** Exceptional ** Excellent * Very good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through the distributor. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *