Just in time for your Stay-cation:
Cheers,
Jim
Armchair travel via torrontes, cava and viognier
By Dave McIntyre, Published: May 15
Spring fever has set in, and I feel the need to get up and out. But no mountain climbing
or cross-country bike trips for me. I do my exploring in wine stores.
This is a great season to experience the wide variety of wine from around the world,
especially white wines. I.m not one to say whites are to be enjoyed only from Easter to
Labor Day, but it is undeniable that the refreshing acidity of many whites makes them
ideal for warm weather.
Wine Recommendations
So here.s a suggested itinerary: Start high in the foothills of the Andes in Argentina
with torrontes, a spicy, flowery wine that is rapidly becoming the white counterpart to
Argentina.s malbec as a signature wine. Crisp and refreshing, it combines the floral
attributes of muscat and the spicy notes of Gewurztraminer. Most hail from Mendoza,
Argentina.s main wine region, and Santa Julia is a reliable brand. But look especially for
those from Salta, an even higher, more remote area farther north where torrontes excels.
Colome winery boasts the world.s highest vineyards at 10,000 feet. Its torrontes is
widely, and justly, considered Argentina.s best expression of the grape.
The Portuguese know about refreshment, of course, as they sit at sidewalk cafes munching
on grilled sardines and linguica sausage while listening to fado music and washing down
the experience with vinho verde. Okay, I.ve run out of Portuguese cliches, but vinho verde
is an underrated wine that is ideal for hot weather. Fresh, tart and acidic, it is fine by
itself and pairs well with garlicky appetizers. It won.t win points for complexity or
dominate your conversation. Don.t be put off by a little spritz; that adds to the pure,
simple fun.
Do you love seafood salads and grilled fish? Then you should explore albarino, the premier
white wine from northwestern Spain. Albarino.s flavor profile resembles that of Riesling,
but it is invariably dry. Taboexa is a new label available in this area and a nice value
at about $16. Albarino also has become a hit with local vintners; look for offerings from
Chrysalis and Willowcroft in Virginia and Black Ankle in Maryland, though they will be
pricey.
France.s Rhone Valley is known for its red wines, but its whites are underappreciated.
Part of the problem is that they feature some unfamiliar flavors and grapes (when marked
on the label, which is rare).
In the southern Rhone, grenache blanc is prominent in the blend. It.s a racy grape that is
becoming trendy in California. Farther north, viognier dominates. I.m especially fond of
the E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone white, a 50-50 blend of viognier and marsanne. The viognier
offers richness and floral notes, while the marsanne tempers the viognier.s lushness and
provides structure and minerality.
I also enjoy quirky blends that don.t fit a standard model of what wine should be. The Old
World doesn.t blend chardonnay with sauvignon blanc, viognier and Gewurztraminer, but Adam
Lee does for his Novy Family Vineyards Four Mile Creek white wine. This is the type of
floral, fun, off-dry white that defies any attempt at stereotyping.
And for life.s daily celebrations, such as a minor victory at work or just an easy commute
home after a busy weekday, bubbles are in order. My favorite sparkler for this time of
year is Spanish cava. It can be a downright bargain, at $8 to $10 for Segura Viudas
Reserva, or a mini-splurge of up to about $20 for a more complex version. Juve y Camps
Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia 2007 (see the accompanying recommendations) is an
excellent example of what Spain can produce in a sparkling wine. At $20, it tastes like a
$40 champagne. You could fool your friends, but Spain deserves the recognition.
Whatever you drink this season, don.t rely on the same old stuff. Follow a different path.
Wine Recommendations
McIntyre blogs at
dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine.
Wine recommendations By . D.M., Published: May 15
Here are six white wines from around the world that will help start your warm-weather
explorations.
. D.M.
Juve y Camps Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Cava 2007 ... Penedes, Spain, $20
This is high-class cava that tastes like a twice-as-expensive champagne. Maybe too pricey
for those everyday celebrations, but perhaps once a week ..... ?
Winebow: Available in the District at Bacchus Wine Cellar, Dupont Market, Lion.s Fine Wine
& Spirits, Magruder.s; on the list at Ceiba, Pizzeria Paradiso in Dupont Circle and
Georgetown, Sequoia, Sova Espresso & Wine, Veranda, Vinoteca. Available in Maryland at
Beer & Wine Co. and Georgetown Square Beer & Wine in Bethesda, Belby Discount Beer
& Wine in Rockville, Grape Expectations in Gaithersburg; on the list at Jaleo in
Bethesda. Available in Virginia at J Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Market
Cellars in Reston; on the list at Velocity 5 Sports Bar in Sterling.
Vina Taboexa Albarino 2011 ..1 / 2 Rias Baixas, Spain, $16
Albarino has become fashionable of late, which means many wines of variable quality are
available in this market. The Taboexa shows the tart acidity characteristic of the grape,
plus loads of fruit to back it up. Excellent with any citrus seafood dish, as well as
garlicky or spicy tapas.
Dionysus: Available in the District at Cork & Fork, D.Vines, Rodman.s, Wagshal.s
Market; on the list at Bodega. Available in Maryland at Balducci.s, Bradley Food &
Beverage and Cork & Fork in Bethesda; Wine Cellars of Annapolis. On the list at
Sushi-Ko in Friendship Heights. Available in Virginia at Ashburn Wine Shop, Balducci.s in
McLean and Alexandria, Cheesetique in Arlington and Alexandria, Cork & Fork in
Gainesville, Ellwood Thompson.s Local Market and River City Cellars in Richmond, Grand Cru
Wine Bar & Bistro in Arlington, Unwined in Alexandria and Belleview.
Lake Chalice Wines Cracklin. Savie Sauvignon Blanc .. Marlborough, New Zealand, $19
This is an unusual wine, which is why I like it. It.s a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, with
the characteristic grassy flavors, and it has a mild spritz from carbonation. Surprise
your friends with this to open your summer patio parties.
Elite: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages,
Rodman.s, Schneider.s of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food &
Beverage, Cork & Fork in Bethesda, Wine Cellars of Annapolis. Available in Virginia at
Cheesetique in Arlington, Rick.s Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria.
E Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2010 .. Rhone Valley, France, $16
This blend of viognier and marsanne shows northern Rhone valley white wine at its
affordable best. Excellent with lighter seafood dishes.
M Touton Selection: Widely available in the District and Maryland. Available in Virginia
at the Frenchman.s Cellar in Culpeper, Planet Wine & Gourmet, Unwined in Alexandria,
Vino Market in Midlothian, the Wine House in Fairfax, various Wegmans locations; on the
list at La Bergerie and Yves Bistro in Alexandria, Cafe Tatti in McLean.
Novy Family Wines Four Mile Creek White 2010/2011 .1 / 2 California, $13
Here.s an uncommon blend of chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, viognier and sauvignon blanc. The
Gewurz dominates the nose with its scent of litchi, but the chardonnay is evident on the
palate with its rich mouth feel. This is a wine that defies conventions and makes you want
to enjoy it for what it is: darn tasty. The vintage is changing over from 2010 to 2011.
Both are good.
Bacchus in the District and Maryland, Robins Cellars in Virginia: Available in Maryland at
1311 Beer & Wine in Mount Airy, Cranbrook Liquors in Cockeysville. Available in
Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Galloping Grape in Warrenton.
Conde Villar Vinho Verde 2011 .1 / 2 Portugal, $11
Refreshing and simple, with lemon-lime flavors and a hint of spritz for oomph.
Country Vintner: Available in the District at Cork Market, Kogod Liquor, Local Vine
Cellar, Virginia Market. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Beer & Wine in
Bethesda, I.M. Wine in Fulton. Available in Virginia at Red, White & Bleu in Falls
Church.
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