[wine] Aussie Shiraz

If you're putting red meat on the barby, these might be more in line. Australian Shiraz $20 and less Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, June 14, 2009 More... Father's Day celebrations involve a grill, usually with meat over the fire. Syrah - called Shiraz in Australia and some other wine regions - is a great match. This berry-packed wine is Australia's major red. It can include aromas and flavors of earth, pepper, smoke and game. While jammy, fruit-forward Shiraz can still be found, many producers seem to be throttling back a bit, bottling a good bit of fruit with enough acidity to give it some zip as well as tannin for structure and texture. Australia led the screw cap trend even on expensive wines. A majority of the more affordable ones can be opened with just a twist of the wrist (about 85 percent of the wines we tasted were bottled with screw caps). There is a plethora of Australian Shiraz bottlings priced $20 and less. These will complement your Dad's Day grilling. 2007 Banrock Station South Eastern Australia ($6.99). This popular former sheep ranch in South Australia offers a readily available wine with plenty of cherry and spice with hints of oak. Not overly fruited, not too tannic, just right for the table or to be enjoyed on its own. (Importer: International Cellars/Constellation Wines Australia) 2008 d'Arenberg Stump Jump McLaren Vale Shiraz ($11). The d'Arenberg family's wine legacy in McLaren Vale dates back to the early 1900s. Chester Osborn is its current head. Workhorse bottling Stump Jump is a great everyday food wine. Subtle nose of ripe fruit with rich, New World leanings; balanced and not overblown. Just as good a value is the serious 2006 d'Arenberg Footbolt McLaren Vale Shiraz ($19). (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2008 Layer Cake South Australia Shiraz ($15) For this wine's third vintage, winemaker Jayson Woodbridge, used more than 90 percent McLaren Vale fruit sourced from small growers. Aged in 50 percent new French oak, which adds layers of spice to the deep blackberry, plum and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. Rich, with weight, substance and long finish, it has plenty of fruit to take on barbecue with aplomb. (Importer: Vintage Point) 2007 Kilikanoon Killerman's Run South Australia Shiraz ($20). Owner/winemaker Kevin Mitchell founded Kilikanoon in 1997 in the Clare Valley region. On the growing side of the winery's primary 230 acres is Mitchell's father, Mort - who lays claim to the eponymous Mort's Block. This bottling, though meant to be enjoyed in its youth, has a rich enough blackberry core and slightly grippy tannins to see a few years of aging. Pepper, oak shadings and bacon-y hints overlay the fruit; almost plush on the palate with a touch of heat on the finish. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2007 Penley Estate Hyland Coonawarra Shiraz ($20). Penley Estate founder Kym Tolley has made wine for 36 years, including a stint at Penfolds from 1973 until 1988. Tolley first released the Hyland Shiraz in 1990, just a couple of years after starting his winery. This bottling is subtle and refined. Both nose and palate show some complexity; bright with a bit of floral perfume, spice, dark ripe berry with mocha hints. Balanced and well put together. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2006 West Cape Howe Western Australia Shiraz ($15). This winery - built in 1997 - was Western Australia's first contract winemaking facility. Head winemaker Gavin Berry's workhorse bottling has the fruit, body and structure to support the blackberry, spice and loamy hint. An outstanding performer for its price, as are its two West Cape Howe siblings - the 2007 Zeepaard Shiraz ($10) and 2006 West Cape Howe Two Steps Great Southern Shiraz-Viognier ($18). (Importer: The Country Vintner/Grape Expectations) Lynne Char Bennett is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/06/14/FDO1182NE0.DTL This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *