[wine] Sonoma Cty Cab Sauv

Or SC CS if your prefere palindromic acronyms. Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, September 19, 2008 A few grape varieties do particularly well in appellations within Sonoma County, such as Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel and Russian River Pinot Noir. Though it's somewhat overshadowed by neighboring Napa Valley, Sonoma County also does well with Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2007, the red variety was second only to Chardonnay's acreage and tons crushed. We tasted 75 wines from Sonoma County and its appellations, from several vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004 and a few 2003s. More than half were 2005s, from which our favorite three-star wines emerged. Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) Owner-winemaker Richard Arrowood - who helped pioneer California's vineyard-designated bottlings - and co-owner and wife, Alis, founded their eponymous winery in 1986, but it's now owned by Jackson Family Wines. Nose of sweet blackberry, olive tapenade and mint, plus cigar box and over-roasted black fruit. Could use a bit more fruit flavor to balance assertive tannins and black plum skin finish. Its 15.2 percent alcohol is well handled. Includes 7.2 percent Merlot, 1.6 percent Malbec and 1.3 percent Petit Verdot. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 B.R. Cohn Olive Hill Estate Vineyards Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) This vineyard is warmed by natural underground hot springs. Winemaker Tom Montgomery has made a lovely wine with Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and violet aromas backed by dry leaf, tobacco, spice and a somewhat stark mineral note. Balanced palate of black plum acidity, dark cassis and oak char. Long, well-structured finish has vigor and generosity. 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged 24 months in French oak barrels. B.R. Cohn is also known for its olive oils and vinegars. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 DeLoach Wild Creek Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($38) This is DeLoach's only single-vineyard Cabernet, which is made by winemakers Julia Crosby and Brian Maloney with consulting winemaker Greg La Follete. A slightly dusty beginning; subtle but lively berry, sweet cherry nose with hints of raspberry sauce and leaf. Palate shows more tart red fruit - cranberry and pomegranate - supported by hints of beef broth and dried herb. Refined tannins on the finish outlast the fruit a bit. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Dreyer Sonoma Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) Chalk Hill provides 68 percent of the fruit with the remainder from Alexander Valley and Mendocino. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, pomegranate cherry aromas surrounded with oak sawdust and chile-spiked chocolate. Solid vanillin joins the mix as do slight tea tannins, which provide food-friendly grip. Straightforward but balanced; aged in new American oak. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($23) Rich oak and chocolate on the nuanced nose, plus sunflower seed, tobacco and sweet blackberry. Spicier flavors punch up the ripe fruit - more red than black - and an acidic punch and soft but somewhat grainy tannins on the finish. With 6 percent Merlot, 6 percent Petit Verdot, 4 percent Malbec and 3 percent Cabernet Franc in the blend. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Lake Sonoma Winery Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) Aromas of cherry, light spice and spicy oak; some fruit and gravelly mineral peek through the oak nose. More tannic and tight - the oak diminishes the black cherry fruit a bit. Some hints of grain on the finish that shows some length. This 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon was barrel-aged for 28 months after finishing fermentation in French and American oak barrels. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Louis M. Martini Monte Rosso Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($85) Grapes from the best blocks of the Monte Rosso vineyard - owned by the Louis M. Martini winery since 1938 - went into this bottling. A nose of refined oak, spiced pomegranate, cran-raspberry, slight potpourri and charcoal. This is a big, structured wine with wonderfully refined, but still chewy tannins enrobed in sweet cherry pie filling, warm blackberry and plum skin. Broad, lengthy finish with great generosity for its size. Aged in French oak barrels for 26 months; includes 2 percent Petit Verdot. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Mazzocco Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) Mazzocco - owned by Ken and Diane Wilson - is perhaps better known for high-octane Zinfandel, but winemaker Antoine Favero also makes a big Cab. A more aromatic, perfumed nose that shows sweet cacao, blackberry, dried branch and touch of meatiness that gives it depth. Fuller and richer with weighty, finely grained tannins that fill the back of the palate and provide definition and length. With 6 percent Merlot blended in; aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels. Rating: TWO STARS Michael Pozzan Winery Special Reserve Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($16) The Pozzan family has a long winemaking tradition, originally in Piedmont, Italy, around the 1800s. Subdued nose of musk, cocoa and plum highlights on nose and palate with a grippier, tough style on finish that has some lingering oak spice. The more evident tannins are offset by bright red fruit highlights Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Owl Ridge T.R. Passalacqua Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($42) Dusty loam and herb aromas over the blackberry and tart orange highlights that sport a cool mint, eucalyptus note. Palate has some interest despite some drying tannins; tart black fruit, hint of woody spice and lingering acidity. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Pellegrini Family Vineyards Cloverdale Ranch Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($28) Aged loam and soy sauce aromas add complexity and are lifted by bright, ripe berry-black cherry fruit. Sharp cassis, beautiful fruit complexity and fine-boned, tannic structure with walnut skin hints on the complex palate. Depth, refinement and great balance. Aged 19 months in a combination of French, Hungarian and American oak. Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Rodney Strong Reserve Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) An earthier nose of salty meat, herbal tea and almost lean red fruit spiked with Asian spice. Bing cherry, cassis and salty dark fruit palate; the spice maintains its strength. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Sbragia Family Vineyards Andolsen Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) Smashed blackberry, black olive, smoky charcuterie and woody/herbal nose. More compelling palate starts with an earthy base, dark, concentrated fruit and a bit of char finishes with assertive but finely grained tannins. A powerful, brooding style. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Sbragia Family Vineyards Monte Rosso Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) Monte Rosso means red mountain; this vineyard is named for its red volcanic soil. Lavender, dry herb, mint chocolate and roasted blackberry, and concentrated fruit aromas. Flavors tend to deep black fruit, a subtle savory quality, allspice and a touch of oak, which provides lovely structure. Seamless and integrated. A long, focused finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Souverain Alexander Valley Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) Made from multiple vineyards' fruit, including that of Souverain's 120-year-old Alexander Valley estate. A more involved nose showing loamy mineral, earth, soy and a lift of sweet plum and cassis. The palate is a bit chewy with a dark chocolate hint and bit of char on the finish. Stronger focus of dark fruit in this balanced effort. Winemaker Ed Killian included 3 percent Syrah, 1.5 percent Petite Sirah and 1.5 percent Cabernet Franc. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Stuhlmuller Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($36) Winemaker Leo Hansen used different vineyard blocks in this wine, with each block planted to a different clone of Cabernet Sauvignon. A slight herbal tang and pepper overlay the fruit aromas that also show loam notes. An enticing palate of cocoa, plum skin and roast blackberry still maintains its bright zip. Somewhat firm, drying tannins on the nicely tart finish. Barrel aged a total of 24 months; includes 5 percent Petit Verdot and 1.5 percent Cabernet Franc in the blend. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS Ty Caton Caton Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) Meatier aromas show a savory side backed with cassis, spearmint gum, herb, cocoa powder and dried branch. Weightier palate that has a bit of tannin, finely grained with good structure and acid balance. Well made. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Brian Gavin, general manager, Conduit. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good - Lynne Char Bennett http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/09/19/WIC012JOCT.DTL This article appeared on page F - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *