Mostly an update. Looks like 6 or 8 is very likely.
Scott has agreed to wave the corkage ($10) provided we
take good care of our server$ (like always) and we send
samples back to the kitchen.
Some thoughts on the Cab pricing as the strong 2001 vintage
hits the shelf, and will be replaced by the more variable 02
and 03 vintages. Laube of the Speculator.
The Liq. Depot sale starts today. Tasting tonight, and
on Wednesday 8 Spetember.
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
-----
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 11:21:39 -0500
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Cc: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
Subject: Mediteranian at Corner Table
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.4i
Greetings,
A Rebours was fantastic. Great food, very interesting and
some truly great wines.
Next week, let's take Scott/Jason up on their offer/suggestion.
Vin du jour is "Mediteranian Wines" at Corner Table. As an added
incentive for Jason, we're also including anything "Rhone."
Put another way, adding Mediteranian to Rhone was a good way to
make peace w/ certain Burgundy/Barollo types.
Corner Table Scott Pampuch
4257 Nicollet Av S
Minneapolis
612-823-0011
Yes:
Lori
Betsy
Bob
Nicolai
Bill S
Roger
Jim/Louise maybe/late: nephews in town
Maybe's
Brian
others
No's.
Ruth/Warren pairing deep fried twinkies with asti spumante at the Fair
Annette pouring and rubbing elbows at the Country Club.
Joe C
Jason Whooping it up by the Bay
Cheers,
Jim
From Jason:
Scott Pampuch is about 4 weeks away from re-opening the n.e. thyme caf?
spot. He's running into kitchen code issues (with the new ownership not
much got grandfathered in). It will be called Corner Table. I've talked to
him about the Thursday group and he looks forward to cooking for you again.
His sous chef is a guy named Keven Kalstren (I think that's the spelling)
who trained in Bordeaux. Before ne thyme closed Annette Peters and I had
possibly the best lobster based seafood bisque I've ever had, made by this
guy. Annette immediately picked it out as French-trained.
Wine Spectator Online
http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Main/Feature_Basic_Template/0,1197,2272,0…
Home > Price Check on Cabernet
Price Check on Cabernet
Posted: Thursday, August 26, 2004
By James Laube
This could be a watershed year for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. That might seem like an
odd assessment coming, as it does, just as the fabulous 2001 vintage arrives in the
market. But as grand as this new vintage is -- and it is a dandy, on par with past greats
such as 1997 and 1996 -- many of the wines face obstacles, both immediate and long term.
The main problem is that too many Cabernets are overpriced. Vintners are ignoring what the
market wants: greater value. Even if the economy rebounds, as it occasionally shows signs
of doing, there are still real fiscal uncertainties facing this country, and consumers are
justifiably cautious about parting with their wine dollars.
Producing high-priced wines has its risks. Steep prices escalate even further once wines
reach restaurant lists. Restaurateurs (and top-end Cabernet producers I've talked to
lately) say sales of high-end Cabernets remain slow. Some sommeliers are reshuffling their
lists and focusing on different varietals, wines that they not only find more exciting but
that they can offer at significantly lower prices. That's a double whammy for
Cabernet producers.
Napa vintners are quick to point out that their wines are less expensive than the elite
first-growths from Bordeaux, which is true. But that's more a rationalization for
their high prices than it is a persuasive argument consumers should buy into. After all,
there are many fine Bordeaux at lower prices.
Why are Cabernet prices so high? One reason is marketing. Many wineries seek to create an
image of luxury and exclusivity. Their owners simply look at what the competition is
charging, figure their own wines are as good, and price them accordingly.
Another ploy is promoting single-vineyard wines of limited production as superior in
quality. Sorry, but single-vineyard wines are not always better than wines that are blends
of several sources. In one of my recent blind tastings, I preferred the less expensive
Cabernets from three fine producers -- Flora Springs, Livingston Moffett and La Jota -- to
their luxury, or single-vineyard, cuv�es, which go for two or three times the price. This
left me questioning their marketing judgment with the higher priced wines.
Another cause of elevated prices is that most new wineries have paid extremely high prices
for vineyard property. The only way they can possibly hope to recoup their investment is
to charge as much as they think the market will bear. Consumers shouldn't pay for
wineries' real estate speculations.
Also, many of these new vineyards are in remote mountain sites, which are notorious for
yielding spartan crops and austere wines. It typically takes 10 to 15 years for most
vintners to learn how to manage their vineyards and have a reasonable expectation as to
how their wines will develop.
Then there's this reality: Many Cabernets simply aren't that good, yet are
priced as if they're can't-miss wines. A few weeks ago, I tasted dozens of
barrel samples of 2003 Cabernets at the California Cabernet Society tasting in St. Helena.
These are wines that are targeted to sell in the $40 to $175 per bottle range. Some were
new names, using newly planted vineyards. I singled out a half-dozen wines I'd
consider buying; the rest simply weren't terribly interesting. A few were even
flawed, with high levels of volatile acidity and Brettanomyces, signs of inexperienced
winemakers; they were poor choices to show as previews of what lies ahead.
And even if Cabernet's high prices weren't at issue, vintners are facing serious
competition from other varieties both within California and beyond, with many of the
outsiders giving Napa's thoroughbred grape a serious run for its money. At Wine
Spectator's Grand Tour in Los Angeles, the most exciting wine I tasted was Casa
Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2001 (95, $55), from Chile. Its 2000 was the No. 3 wine in our 2003
Top 100.
I'm not suggesting you shouldn't buy 2001 Napa Cabernets. Just shop wisely and
consider what you're buying. This is the best vintage among the current and
near-future offerings. Both 2002 and 2003 are variable in quality; there will be some
terrific wines, but quality in both years was uneven, especially in 2003.
If you're spending more on wine than you'd like, or think is wise, you're
probably chasing limited-production wines with lofty reputations. But it also means
you're missing opportunities in a market where quality and value can work to your
advantage.
James Laube, Wine Spectator's Napa Valley-based senior editor, has been with the
magazine since 1983.
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