FYI
Domestic Pinot Blanc
Lynne Char Bennett
Sunday, May 31, 2009
More...
Though widely produced in Alsace, Italy and increasingly in Germany, Pinot Blanc is under
the radar in the United States.
This white grape is a mutation of Pinot Gris, which itself is a mutation of Pinot Noir. In
short, a Pinot Noir cousin twice-removed.
Like Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc does best in cool regions where it can retain its zippy
acidity - a hallmark of European-produced bottlings. Winemakers can vinify (often riper)
Pinot Blanc similarly to Chardonnay - in oak barrels, on lees and with malolactic
fermentation. Others prefer a lighter, crisper style.
No matter the style, American Pinot Blanc is not yet in great demand. Domestically, it is
still searching for its best expression. Some bottlings are bright gems and others are
hidden beneath a layer of oak. But like many other varietals, this cousin twice-removed
will continue to be made in a range of styles.
2008 Bethel Heights Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc ($16) In 1977
two families established Bethel Heights Vineyard northwest of Salem, Ore., eventually
producing cool weather varietals including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot
Blanc. A rich, deep fruit nose of peach, apricot and apple also show on the palate, which
is highlighted by oak and palate-cleansing acidity on the lingering finish.
2006 Chalone Vineyard Chalone Pinot Blanc ($22) The historic Chalone Vineyard is 1,800
feet above the Salinas Valley. Now owned by Diageo, it is the sole winery in its eponymous
appellation and features Monterey County's oldest producing vineyard. Delicate
vanilla-scented pear crisp aromas and flavors with rather obvious oak seasonings on the
palate.
2007 Etude Carneros Pinot Blanc ($38) Founded by Tony Soter more than 25 years ago, this
winery is perhaps best known for Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker Jon Priest
used estate fruit from Alsatian clones grown in the cool Carneros appellation in this
limited-production wine. Elements of gold apple and bright citrusy fruit are underscored
by subtle oak in this well-crafted wine that is rich but remains light on its feet. Great
balance.
2007 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc ($17) Second-generation winemaker Luisa
Ponzi decided to make Pinot Blanc in 1990 after she studied in Burgundy. This crisp,
balanced bottling offers a lilting sweet nose of Bosc pear and golden apple, with a nicely
fruited palate. A firm, almost steely finish.
2007 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Pinot Blanc ($18) This winery dates back to 1863
when vineyards were planted. It underwent major renovation in 1997 from owner Gary Heck,
who also owns Kenwood Vineyard, Korbel and Lake Sonoma Winery. The aromatic nose of this
medium-bodied wine has a solid core of fruit with infiltration of light spice; Ruby Red
grapefruit and peel on the finish.
- Lynne Char Bennett, lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/31/FDK317OVT5.DTL
This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle
© 2009 Hearst Communications Inc. | Privacy Policy | Feedback | RSS Feeds | FAQ | Site
Index | Contact
--
------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *