[wine] Bargain Hunting

FYI For bargain wines, this is a very good year Jon BonnéSunday, November 8, 2009 For bargain wines, this is a very good year. It's no surprise what goes through our minds when we're standing in front of the wine shelf, scanning for bargains. But what about the folks on the other side of the equation? What are the wine buyers thinking when they're scouting for deals? It's time again for our Bargain Wine fiesta. This time I turned to three people who help put great deals on the shelves. No surprise: Their conclusion was pretty much the same as mine. "Right now it's a really good time to be a consumer of wine," says Julie Joy, senior buyer for Cost Plus World Market. "I look at stores now compared to previous years and say, 'There are some really good deals out there.' " That doesn't apply across the board. Some expensive wines are still expensive, even after a year for their makers to get a reality check. But one-third of us are actually increasing our purchases of wine priced $6 to $15, according to research firm Wine Opinions. When deals are there to be found, we drink them. I tapped buyers for three stores that traffic in a lot of wines that fit our price limits. Nothing was off-limits, but I asked them to stretch any boundaries. It takes skill to find wines with a great flavor-to-dollar ratio, and I wanted them to share a few secrets. Each took a different tack, selecting about a case worth apiece. From that I chose the best 20. I asked Wilfred Wong, cellarmaster at BevMo, to look beyond some of the traditional varietals in which the Concord-based retailer specializes. He brought in buyer Bill Hayes to lend a hand, and they took little time devising a list of wines that are offbeat (random Washington white blends) and winning (prosecco). Of all the buyers, I least expected the BevMo duo to embrace obscure, but you'll find nary a Merlot or Chardonnay in the lineup. Instead, they suggested everything from a standout California Viognier to a brimmingly aromatic red Cotes du Rhone. Leading us to Secret Strategy No. 1: The less obvious, the better the wines. Though BevMo has a solid selection of domestic wines, some of the best deals this year come from farther afield. French wine, in particular, has been easy to pick up on the cheap, even with the weak dollar. "It tells you how hungry the French are right now," Hayes says. Julie Joy won extra points for the single best deal of the lineup: a magnum of Segura Viudas Cava for just $10. Now, a double-size bottle by definition is a party on its own, but double bubbly for a sawbuck? Boo-yah. Joy had other tricks to offer: A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that will win over lots of converts from the Villa Maria/Kim Crawford realms. And a hearty, unknown Russian River Pinot that clocks in at just $15. On balance her choices were subs for sometimes better-known names - which leads us to Secret Strategy No. 2: Instead of paying for a familiar name, pay for the region and the wine. The final dose of help came from Daniel Kahn, owner of Spencer & Daniel's wine outlet in San Francisco (1541 Polk St., near Sacramento). Kahn's specialty is hunting down closeouts and one-time deals. Some of the savviest buys (also some of the worst) can come from scooping up the leftovers of wine distributors. As he points out: "The real deals sell 3-to-1 over the value priced wine." Kahn's collection pointed out the virtues and risks of buying this way. There were amazing highs (the 2008 Cherubino Riesling from Australia would be completely cellar-worthy even at its regular price) along with bargain superstars (the Redtree Pinot Noir) and a couple of lows. (Old-vintage rosés a dicey prospect.) In a couple of cases the category was right - Cabernet from Australia's Coonawarra Valley actually tastes better with some age - even if the specific wine didn't quite perform. Which is probably why Kahn noted that the Two Buck Chuck tactic applies even more in the closeout aisle: Buy a bottle, try it, and if you like it, buy a case. And that brings us to Secret Strategy No. 3: Find a winner and stick with it - at least for a month or so. All the buyers made one thing clear: It's a great time to be on the hunt for bargain wine. Discounts abound. Store managers who want to clear their warehouse or balance their books are cutting deals. That means we all should drink well this holiday season, no matter what we can spend. Our list of buyers' best deals. K8 Best of the bargains Here are our wine buyers' bargain picks, as vetted by Chronicle Wine Editor Jon BonnéSuggestions came from Wilfred Wong of BevMo, Julie Joy of Cost Plus and Daniel Kahn of Spencer & Daniel's. Please note: Prices listed are typically what we paid, but may vary from store to store. Sparkling NV Poema Brut Cava ($10): A solid performer in the cava category. Aggressively fizzy, with apple and grey mineral flavors and a curt lemon-pith finish. A bit rounder mouthfeel, despite impressively low alcohol. Take it to the table. (Importer: Kobrand.) Suggested by: Wong NV Segura Viudas Brut Cava ($10/magnum): Quite simply, the bargain find of the season. This historic Spanish sparkling producer may be a familiar name, and the wine's all ripe apple and yeast, but all you need to know is this. Magnum. Ten bucks. I believe the translation is, "Instant holiday party." Suggested by: Joy NV Villa Sandi Il Fresco Brut Prosecco ($13): A balanced, refreshing effort from a respected producer. Fresh orange and tart candy flavors come in a lighter style, but refined bubbles and some deft sweetness (despite its brut label) round it out in a very pleasing way. (Importer: Folio Wine Co.) Suggested by: Wong White 2008 Alta Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc ($10): A classy, delicious effort from Australia. Freshly herbal and peach-filled, with ripe kiwi and grapefruit. Not as austere as Marlborough, but with weight (from some lees contact) and bouncy citrus fruit that keeps giving. (Importer: Specialty Cellars.) Suggested by: Kahn 2008 Cave de Pomerols Hugues Beaulieu Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet ($10): An always-fun pick from one of the more successful co-ops in the south of France. Picpoul is one of the obscure Rhone grapes, and this vintage is crisper than some, but there's enough weight to put it on the dinner table. White peppercorn and a floral lift to tangy, sharp lemon and saline flavors. Remember this label. It delivers. (Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils.) Suggested by: Wong 2008 Larry Cherubino The Yard Whispering Hill Vineyard Mount Barker Riesling ($6): Exhibit A of why you always should scour the bargain aisle. Cherubino, onetime winemaker for Tintara and Houghton, created this standout Australian Riesling from vines planted on their own roots in 1987. With beautifully austere stone and lemon pith scents, and laser-like acidity, it will improve for up to a decade. At its regular price above $20, it still would be a worthy cellar pick. Kahn graciously downplayed the find, but we thank the wine gods for whatever ruffle in the supply chain made it appear. (Importer: Vintage New World.) Suggested by: Kahn 2008 Dashwood Winemakers' Selection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10): Here's the price-killer for those wanting to save a few bucks on their Kiwi fix. Quintessential Marlborough grass notes, with shaved green papaya, pomelo and apricot skin. Racy and focused, with enough weight to match to a meal. (Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports.) Suggested by: Joy 2007 Hedges CMS Columbia Valley White ($12): Washington's Hedges family makes affordable blends under the CMS label, in this case standing for Chardonnay, Marsanne and Sauvignon Blanc. Another reliable value brand to seek. Pretty chervil and buttercup highlights atop the fresh Meyer lemon and Anjou pear. Some decent weight to it, making it ample to take on fish or chicken. Suggested by: Wong 2008 McManis California Viognier ($11): The McManis family and their winemakers deserve credit for a Viognier that seriously outperforms. Harvested mostly from their own vineyards in Manteca and made in steel tanks, it offers substantial peach nectar and wildflower, with perfect typicity. A citrus-zest kick provides that lively edge Viognier so desperately needs. Fantastic value. Suggested by: Wong Red 2008 Redtree California Pinot Noir ($9): A gulpable Pinot crafted by industry veterans Bob Broman and Roy Cecchetti (Pepperwood Grove), sourced from an unlikely Pinot spot: Lodi. It's this year's runaway success. Bright, true Pinot flavors of Bing cherry and watermelon skin. Straightfoward and juicy, and exactly as it should be. Suggested by: Kahn 2008 Castle Rock Central Coast Pinot Noir ($12): Spicy, ripe and performing above Castle Rock's average. Raspberry jam and plum skin, with an honest earthy hint lurking in back but also a touch of sourness. You can find it discounted below $8. Suggested by: Joy 2008 Feeding Frenzy Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($15): A bargain-priced Pinot with great geography. Dense and darker. Blackberry, orange peel and a clear oak note. Not exactly subtle but ample and bold. Suggested by: Joy 2007 Vinos Sin-Ley M5 Yecla Monastrell ($13): The latest Monastrell (aka Mourvedre) from a Spanish project ("Without Law") to make wines outside the country's traditional rules. Leathery and deep, this bottling from the emerging Yecla region is packed with pleasing bramble fruit and grippy tannins, and given depth by a bright mineral edge. (Importer: Ole.) Suggested by: Wong 2007 Domaine des Escaravailles Les Sablieres Cotes du Rhone ($13): Vibrant berry notes from the Grenache, with a white pepper overtone and a bark-like grip on the palate. Full and food-friendly, exactly what a Cotes du Rhone should be. (Importer: Jeff Wilburn Selections/Wine Agencies Inc.) Suggested by: Wong 2006 Jade Mountain La Provencale California Red Wine ($10): A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignane and Viognier from a pioneering California Rhone name, now controlled by Diageo. Packed with purple fruit, plus a rich oak overtone and dry-herb accents. Well assembled and gutsy, with a dark, spicy, warm finish. Suggested by: Joy 2006 Montevina Amador County Zinfandel ($8): An appealing new look for this well-known Sierras label. It's solid, reined-in Zin, with spicy plum and cherry, and sweet echoes on the finish that make it user-friendly. Suggested by: Kahn 2007 Volver Paso a Paso La Mancha Tempranillo ($9): An outperformer from Spain's La Mancha region, one of importer Jorge Ordonez's screaming Iberian deals. Distinct smoke and plum skin, with mocha, espelette pepper and bright bramble fruit. Tempranillo's classic tannins show up at the end, but mostly as a boost for food. (Importer: Jorge Ordonez/Henry Wine Group.) Suggested by: Wong 2008 Maipe Andean Culture Mendoza Malbec ($13): A hot wine in a hot category, which makes it easy to find around town. Consultant Alberto Antonini (Altos Las Hormigas) also helped propel this new runaway hit. Scents of smoky leaves, violet, currant and huckleberry, with a bright surge of fruit. A mineral edge to the tannins adds depth. (Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils.) Suggested by: Joy 2006 Tin Roof Cellars California Merlot ($10): A solid effort from winemaker Melissa Bates for one of the value labels run by Jackson Family Wines. Distinct oak flavors are balanced by solid black tea and bright plum, with all the pleasing softness of Merlot. Suggested by: Kahn 2007 Manifesto North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($15): The Manifesto wines are a case of a star winemaker - Jamey Whetstone - focusing on good fruit from a lesser-known corner, in this case Suisun Valley, due east of Napa. They're a great success, and this solid, drinkable Cab is exactly what it should be: with solid oak scents, plus tobacco and dried branches, plus dried currant and juicy blackberry fruit. The screwcap's a plus. Suggested by: Kahn Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com or twitter.com/jbonne. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/11/08/FDU31AE3K1.DTL This article appeared on page K - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *