FYI
For bargain wines, this is a very good year
Jon BonnéSunday, November 8, 2009
For bargain wines, this is a very good year.
It's no surprise what goes through our minds when we're standing in front of the
wine shelf, scanning for bargains.
But what about the folks on the other side of the equation? What are the wine buyers
thinking when they're scouting for deals?
It's time again for our Bargain Wine fiesta. This time I turned to three people who
help put great deals on the shelves. No surprise: Their conclusion was pretty much the
same as mine.
"Right now it's a really good time to be a consumer of wine," says Julie
Joy, senior buyer for Cost Plus World Market. "I look at stores now compared to
previous years and say, 'There are some really good deals out there.' "
That doesn't apply across the board. Some expensive wines are still expensive, even
after a year for their makers to get a reality check. But one-third of us are actually
increasing our purchases of wine priced $6 to $15, according to research firm Wine
Opinions. When deals are there to be found, we drink them.
I tapped buyers for three stores that traffic in a lot of wines that fit our price limits.
Nothing was off-limits, but I asked them to stretch any boundaries. It takes skill to find
wines with a great flavor-to-dollar ratio, and I wanted them to share a few secrets.
Each took a different tack, selecting about a case worth apiece. From that I chose the
best 20.
I asked Wilfred Wong, cellarmaster at BevMo, to look beyond some of the traditional
varietals in which the Concord-based retailer specializes. He brought in buyer Bill Hayes
to lend a hand, and they took little time devising a list of wines that are offbeat
(random Washington white blends) and winning (prosecco).
Of all the buyers, I least expected the BevMo duo to embrace obscure, but you'll find
nary a Merlot or Chardonnay in the lineup. Instead, they suggested everything from a
standout California Viognier to a brimmingly aromatic red Cotes du Rhone. Leading us to
Secret Strategy No. 1: The less obvious, the better the wines.
Though BevMo has a solid selection of domestic wines, some of the best deals this year
come from farther afield. French wine, in particular, has been easy to pick up on the
cheap, even with the weak dollar. "It tells you how hungry the French are right
now," Hayes says.
Julie Joy won extra points for the single best deal of the lineup: a magnum of Segura
Viudas Cava for just $10.
Now, a double-size bottle by definition is a party on its own, but double bubbly for a
sawbuck? Boo-yah.
Joy had other tricks to offer: A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that will win over lots of
converts from the Villa Maria/Kim Crawford realms. And a hearty, unknown Russian River
Pinot that clocks in at just $15.
On balance her choices were subs for sometimes better-known names - which leads us to
Secret Strategy No. 2: Instead of paying for a familiar name, pay for the region and the
wine.
The final dose of help came from Daniel Kahn, owner of Spencer & Daniel's wine
outlet in San Francisco (1541 Polk St., near Sacramento).
Kahn's specialty is hunting down closeouts and one-time deals. Some of the savviest
buys (also some of the worst) can come from scooping up the leftovers of wine
distributors. As he points out: "The real deals sell 3-to-1 over the value priced
wine."
Kahn's collection pointed out the virtues and risks of buying this way. There were
amazing highs (the 2008 Cherubino Riesling from Australia would be completely
cellar-worthy even at its regular price) along with bargain superstars (the Redtree Pinot
Noir) and a couple of lows. (Old-vintage rosés a dicey prospect.) In a couple of cases the
category was right - Cabernet from Australia's Coonawarra Valley actually tastes
better with some age - even if the specific wine didn't quite perform.
Which is probably why Kahn noted that the Two Buck Chuck tactic applies even more in the
closeout aisle: Buy a bottle, try it, and if you like it, buy a case. And that brings us
to Secret Strategy No. 3: Find a winner and stick with it - at least for a month or so.
All the buyers made one thing clear: It's a great time to be on the hunt for bargain
wine. Discounts abound. Store managers who want to clear their warehouse or balance their
books are cutting deals.
That means we all should drink well this holiday season, no matter what we can spend.
Our list of buyers' best deals. K8
Best of the bargains
Here are our wine buyers' bargain picks, as vetted by Chronicle Wine Editor Jon
BonnéSuggestions came from Wilfred Wong of BevMo, Julie Joy of Cost Plus and Daniel Kahn
of Spencer & Daniel's. Please note: Prices listed are typically what we paid, but
may vary from store to store.
Sparkling
NV Poema Brut Cava ($10): A solid performer in the cava category. Aggressively fizzy, with
apple and grey mineral flavors and a curt lemon-pith finish. A bit rounder mouthfeel,
despite impressively low alcohol. Take it to the table. (Importer: Kobrand.) Suggested by:
Wong
NV Segura Viudas Brut Cava ($10/magnum): Quite simply, the bargain find of the season.
This historic Spanish sparkling producer may be a familiar name, and the wine's all
ripe apple and yeast, but all you need to know is this. Magnum. Ten bucks. I believe the
translation is, "Instant holiday party." Suggested by: Joy
NV Villa Sandi Il Fresco Brut Prosecco ($13): A balanced, refreshing effort from a
respected producer. Fresh orange and tart candy flavors come in a lighter style, but
refined bubbles and some deft sweetness (despite its brut label) round it out in a very
pleasing way. (Importer: Folio Wine Co.) Suggested by: Wong
White
2008 Alta Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc ($10): A classy, delicious effort from Australia.
Freshly herbal and peach-filled, with ripe kiwi and grapefruit. Not as austere as
Marlborough, but with weight (from some lees contact) and bouncy citrus fruit that keeps
giving. (Importer: Specialty Cellars.) Suggested by: Kahn
2008 Cave de Pomerols Hugues Beaulieu Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet ($10): An
always-fun pick from one of the more successful co-ops in the south of France. Picpoul is
one of the obscure Rhone grapes, and this vintage is crisper than some, but there's
enough weight to put it on the dinner table. White peppercorn and a floral lift to tangy,
sharp lemon and saline flavors. Remember this label. It delivers. (Importer: Kysela Pere
et Fils.) Suggested by: Wong
2008 Larry Cherubino The Yard Whispering Hill Vineyard Mount Barker Riesling ($6): Exhibit
A of why you always should scour the bargain aisle. Cherubino, onetime winemaker for
Tintara and Houghton, created this standout Australian Riesling from vines planted on
their own roots in 1987. With beautifully austere stone and lemon pith scents, and
laser-like acidity, it will improve for up to a decade. At its regular price above $20, it
still would be a worthy cellar pick. Kahn graciously downplayed the find, but we thank the
wine gods for whatever ruffle in the supply chain made it appear. (Importer: Vintage New
World.) Suggested by: Kahn
2008 Dashwood Winemakers' Selection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10): Here's
the price-killer for those wanting to save a few bucks on their Kiwi fix. Quintessential
Marlborough grass notes, with shaved green papaya, pomelo and apricot skin. Racy and
focused, with enough weight to match to a meal. (Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports.)
Suggested by: Joy
2007 Hedges CMS Columbia Valley White ($12): Washington's Hedges family makes
affordable blends under the CMS label, in this case standing for Chardonnay, Marsanne and
Sauvignon Blanc. Another reliable value brand to seek. Pretty chervil and buttercup
highlights atop the fresh Meyer lemon and Anjou pear. Some decent weight to it, making it
ample to take on fish or chicken. Suggested by: Wong
2008 McManis California Viognier ($11): The McManis family and their winemakers deserve
credit for a Viognier that seriously outperforms. Harvested mostly from their own
vineyards in Manteca and made in steel tanks, it offers substantial peach nectar and
wildflower, with perfect typicity. A citrus-zest kick provides that lively edge Viognier
so desperately needs. Fantastic value. Suggested by: Wong
Red
2008 Redtree California Pinot Noir ($9): A gulpable Pinot crafted by industry veterans Bob
Broman and Roy Cecchetti (Pepperwood Grove), sourced from an unlikely Pinot spot: Lodi.
It's this year's runaway success. Bright, true Pinot flavors of Bing cherry and
watermelon skin. Straightfoward and juicy, and exactly as it should be. Suggested by: Kahn
2008 Castle Rock Central Coast Pinot Noir ($12): Spicy, ripe and performing above Castle
Rock's average. Raspberry jam and plum skin, with an honest earthy hint lurking in
back but also a touch of sourness. You can find it discounted below $8. Suggested by: Joy
2008 Feeding Frenzy Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($15): A bargain-priced Pinot with
great geography. Dense and darker. Blackberry, orange peel and a clear oak note. Not
exactly subtle but ample and bold. Suggested by: Joy
2007 Vinos Sin-Ley M5 Yecla Monastrell ($13): The latest Monastrell (aka Mourvedre) from a
Spanish project ("Without Law") to make wines outside the country's
traditional rules. Leathery and deep, this bottling from the emerging Yecla region is
packed with pleasing bramble fruit and grippy tannins, and given depth by a bright mineral
edge. (Importer: Ole.) Suggested by: Wong
2007 Domaine des Escaravailles Les Sablieres Cotes du Rhone ($13): Vibrant berry notes
from the Grenache, with a white pepper overtone and a bark-like grip on the palate. Full
and food-friendly, exactly what a Cotes du Rhone should be. (Importer: Jeff Wilburn
Selections/Wine Agencies Inc.) Suggested by: Wong
2006 Jade Mountain La Provencale California Red Wine ($10): A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre,
Carignane and Viognier from a pioneering California Rhone name, now controlled by Diageo.
Packed with purple fruit, plus a rich oak overtone and dry-herb accents. Well assembled
and gutsy, with a dark, spicy, warm finish. Suggested by: Joy
2006 Montevina Amador County Zinfandel ($8): An appealing new look for this well-known
Sierras label. It's solid, reined-in Zin, with spicy plum and cherry, and sweet
echoes on the finish that make it user-friendly. Suggested by: Kahn
2007 Volver Paso a Paso La Mancha Tempranillo ($9): An outperformer from Spain's La
Mancha region, one of importer Jorge Ordonez's screaming Iberian deals. Distinct
smoke and plum skin, with mocha, espelette pepper and bright bramble fruit.
Tempranillo's classic tannins show up at the end, but mostly as a boost for food.
(Importer: Jorge Ordonez/Henry Wine Group.) Suggested by: Wong
2008 Maipe Andean Culture Mendoza Malbec ($13): A hot wine in a hot category, which makes
it easy to find around town. Consultant Alberto Antonini (Altos Las Hormigas) also helped
propel this new runaway hit. Scents of smoky leaves, violet, currant and huckleberry, with
a bright surge of fruit. A mineral edge to the tannins adds depth. (Importer: Kysela Pere
et Fils.) Suggested by: Joy
2006 Tin Roof Cellars California Merlot ($10): A solid effort from winemaker Melissa Bates
for one of the value labels run by Jackson Family Wines. Distinct oak flavors are balanced
by solid black tea and bright plum, with all the pleasing softness of Merlot. Suggested
by: Kahn
2007 Manifesto North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($15): The Manifesto wines are a case of a
star winemaker - Jamey Whetstone - focusing on good fruit from a lesser-known corner, in
this case Suisun Valley, due east of Napa. They're a great success, and this solid,
drinkable Cab is exactly what it should be: with solid oak scents, plus tobacco and dried
branches, plus dried currant and juicy blackberry fruit. The screwcap's a plus.
Suggested by: Kahn
Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com or
twitter.com/jbonne.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/11/08/FDU31AE3K1.DTL
This article appeared on page K - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
--
------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *