[wine] Sonoma Coast Pinot fwd

Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, September 12, 2008 Pinot Noir is grown all over the large Sonoma Coast appellation, which runs along the Sonoma County coastline from the San Pablo Bay to the Mendocino County line, extending inland for about 30 miles. Created in 1987, this growing region includes portions of several Sonoma County American Viticultural Areas. It generally has a cool climate and receives more rain than other Sonoma appellations. A winegrowing region this large contains many microclimates, resulting in various styles of Pinot Noir. Winemaking decisions - including grape ripeness at harvest, whole cluster or barrel fermentation, and new or used oak barrels - also play a major role in the final product. The 49 Sonoma Coast Pinots we tasted offered both red and black fruit, occasional spice and loam, with a range of tannins, from soft and ripe to rustic and assertive. Most were from the 2006 vintage, a year with challenging weather and a lower-yielding harvest. A cool, wet spring led to a late start of the growing season; harvest was also delayed, though most grapes reached full ripeness. Many of our recommended wines have upwards of 14.2 percent alcohol, though some winemakers picked their grapes earlier for lower sugar levels, resulting in wines with lower alcohol and greater acidity. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Baker Lane Hurst Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($40) Slightly meaty, but fruit-forward aromas: pomegranate, raspberry, cola and citrus zest aromas. More delicate but bright, well-extracted cherry and tart rhubarb flavors backed with warm wood. Acidity lingers on the finish that cries out for food. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Belle Glos Taylor Lane Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($60) A nose of sweet-sour cherry, underripe strawberry with loam and sandalwood spice. The palate is richer with boysenberry and blackberry highlighted with an elegant hint of wood. Finish comes alive with bright acidity; nicely balanced for such a young wine. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Benovia Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($45) Fruited nose of bright tart cherry, anise, jasmine, sweet plum and the barest hint of smoky char. Palate is bigger with darker fruit, wild cherry and a hint of mocha. Supple mouthfeel moves to a tart finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($25) Concentrated strawberry, rhubarb, damp soil and mint on the nose with some delicacy amid the oak. Subdued palate filled in by soft-edged red fruit and bramble with a grippy, fruity finish. Rustic, assertive tannins give it some length. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS DeLoach Le Roi Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($60) Interesting aromatics of deep loam, black fruit cherry and plenty of oak with an overriding savoriness and underlying char. The woody profile extends to the intense, powerful palate along with earth and fruit. Mouthwatering acidity on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Freeman Vineyard & Winery Akiko's Cuvee Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($54) Lovely, delicate nose perfumed with rhubarb, sweet cherry, sandalwood and loam is ripe, juicy and intense, with bright, high tones. Similar on the focused, elegant palate, which shows a hint of char then a sweet raspberry fruit finish and touch of soft-edged oak. Supple and well balanced. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Hartford Court Land's Edge Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($45) An oaked wine with a big, ripe, juicy black cherry and bramble nose underscored with earthy mineral, hints of menthol and wood spice. The supple, fruit-forward palate shows less tannin, with a round, bright finish that recovers from an initial peek of heat. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($48)Perfumed cherry, black fruit, fennel seed, spice and damp soil on the fruit-driven nose. Concentrated fruit on the big palate that has fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. A balanced wine, including the oak presence. Has a long, warm finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($22) Black fuit, canned cherry pie filling and strawberry compote aromas accented with hints of spice and herb. Similar flavors with echoes of cranberry and vanillin throughout; finishes with oak tannins, plum skin and very high acidity that will be better with food. Immediately accessible. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Mario Perelli-Minetti Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($31) Aromas have a berry jam, bubble gum, candied sweet fruit character with a bit of berry leaf. Strawberry preserve and peachy notes on the generously fruited palate; soft tannins make this fruity-style wine an early, easy drinker. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($33) Meaty, pungent nose with tamarind, soy, dried mushroom, rich fruit and stewed strawberry. Moderately intense and weighty palate that emphasizes its tartness. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Patz & Hall Jenkins Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($55) Demerara sugar, sassafras, subtle spice, soy and dark cherry-tinged nose that has a meaty, slightly broody character. Bright, opulent fruit palate is ripe and rich but retains a savory, tangy flair. Balanced with integrated tannins. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Roessler La Brisa Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($30) Aromas of blackberry, wild strawberry, soft cherry, spice and damp soil show a bright liveliness. Lovely combo of Bing cherry, orange zest flavors with a bright red fruit ping on the finish. Long, supple and balanced; shows a seamless, fine-boned structure with pleasantly lingering ripe tannins. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Petersen Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) Sweet, concentrated cherry, plum and lemon peel with strawberry highlights, sandalwood and spice aromas. Rich mouthfeel that has almost a walnut skin grip to it. Fruit is countered with zippy acidity. Well-balanced tension between the sweet fruit and the wood. Rating: TWO STARS2005 Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($40) Fruity nose of wild bramble berries, anise, tree bark, black cherry and cranberry with lemon rind highlights. Dark fruit flavors continue on the medium-bodied palate that is almost astringent. Not fully integrated, needs time. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Testarossa La Cruz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($54) Fresh summer berries, baking spice, pine and muted flower, green herb aromas. Touches of tangerine also present on nose and palate. Well balanced with long, supple finish; even better with time. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Jason Alexander, vice president of wine acquisitions, Vintrust. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good Also recommended 2005 Castle Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($26) 2005 Fort Ross Fort Ross Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($39) 2005 Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($27) 2006 Freeman Vineyard & Winery Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($44) 2006 Kokomo Winemaker's Reserve Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($45) 2007 Schug Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($24) 2006 Sebastiani Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($18) - Lynne Char Bennett http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/09/12/WIAB12FLEL.DTL This article appeared on page F - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *