[wine] Pinot at Emma's tomorrow

We're going back to Emma's for Pinot. Last time, Bob requested "Proven Pinots" and that worked well quality wise, although the suspects were "usual". I'd prefer to see us maintain a diversity of offerings. That said, I won't be bringing anything from Transylvania for a good long while. I've heard from several people, one way or the other. ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:27:55 -0600 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Pinot at Emma's Emma's Restaurant and Lounge 2817 Lyndale Ave S, Mpls. 612.879.5800 Pinots at Emmas. 2817 Lyndale (was 3 Muses?). Bob Betsy Russ/Sue Joyce Ruth Jim Annette S Lori Bill ? Cheers, Jim Emma's Restaurant and Lounge A low-key neighborhood sweetheart with fine-dining aspirations, Emma's is where you'll find young chef and owner Emily Streeter cooking her likable French-touched classics. For dinner you'll find carefully made bistro classics as well as more ambitious showpieces. Streeter works particularly well with flavors along a single theme: One wintertime special of goose fat-braised duck crusted with fines herbes and served in a smoked tomato duck stock with potatoes, leeks, and fresh baby fava beans was unforgettable. During weekend brunch, unpretentious dishes like fried-egg cutouts and French toast as fluffy as bed pillows brighten every table--and cost the same as at nearby style-less diners. Emma's back lounge is a hidden oasis, and the wine, cocktails, and privacy are a welcome after-dinner treat for those who want a drink, but not a bar. American Posh. $$-$$$, Breakfast / Brunch, Great Bar. ----- End forwarded message ----- A Finicky Grape With a Friendly Side Wednesday, January 24, 2007; F02 I've often wondered whether pinot noir is the wine folks really want when they order a cabernet sauvignon. It's friendlier, fruitier and more food-compatible. Though cabernet sauvignon is a great wine, it needs a lot of time in the cellar to reveal its magnificence, and its cedary, herbal flavors are something of an acquired taste. Until recently, the only reliable source of truly tasty pinot noir was the Cote d'Or region of Burgundy. Red Burgundy is the purest expression of pinot noir's delectable melange of bing cherry, vanilla bean and roast meat character, but it's often expensive, and the Burgundy nomenclature can be difficult to understand. American winemakers were slow to master the finicky pinot noir grape; their attempts tasted more like stringy versions of Beaujolais, zinfandel or syrah. But by the time sales of pinot took off in the wake of the 2004 motion picture "Sideways," winemakers had figured out that the grape must be planted in just the right places and handled extremely gently in the winery, and as a result, quality has soared. Though there's been some grumbling that new American pinot noirs are getting too intense and super-fruity, I've found just the opposite. If anything, the wines have become more fragrant and delicate, which is precisely what pinot noir should be. Here's a list in order of personal preference, based on the rapport between quality and price. Wines are from California except where noted. Resources for finding wines include http://www.winesearcher.com and http://www.wineaccess.com. Call stores to verify availability. Prices are approximate. Ponzi Vineyards Tavola 2005 Pinot Noir "Willamette Valley" ($25; Oregon): Irresistibly drinkable and luscious, from one of Oregon's best wineries. Copious black cherry and pomegranate fruit, with notes of toast and black currant. Lily 2005 Pinot Noir "Sonoma County" ($25): A fine center of deep, dark cherry fruit and teasing touches of vanilla beans and spice on the finish. Meridian 2005 Pinot Noir "Central Coast" ($11): An excellent value, with authentic pinot noir flavors in a quaffable style. Serve lightly chilled. Wild Horse 2005 Pinot Noir "Central Coast" ($20; half-bottle $12): Fragrant and berry-accented. Paraiso 2003 Pinot Noir "Santa Lucia Highlands" ($25): Powerfully concentrated. Martin Ray 2005 Pinot Noir "Santa Barbara County" ($25): Vivid ripe cherry and strawberry flavors energizing an elegant, silky wine. De Loach 2005 Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" ($24): De Loach is back with admirable pinot noirs, including this exotically ripe one. Lockwood Vineyard 2005 Pinot Noir "Block 7" ($19): Effusively fruity with soft tannins; highly quaffable. Gino da Pinot 2005 Pinot Noir "Monterey County" ($17): Excellent value, offering fresh cherry fruit lightly accented by oak. River Road Vineyards and Winery 2005 Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" ($18): Pretty fruit layered over soft tannins. Beringer 2005 Pinot Noir "Third Century Central Coast" ($14): Rose petal and red fruit aromas; a well-made, food-friendly pinot noir from California's cool Central Coast. Jacuzzi Family Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir "Carneros" ($23): Chewy flavors of black raspberry, currants and chocolate; an ideal accompaniment to a thick porterhouse. Yamhill Valley Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir "Estate" ($20; Oregon): Vigorous, balanced flavors of roast meat and red fruit. Ramsay 2005 Pinot Noir "North Coast" ($22): Solid pinot flavors over a firm, tannic finish. Chateau St. Jean 2004 Pinot Noir "Sonoma County" ($19): Soft cranberry and pomegranate, accented with herbs and minerals. R. Stuart & Co. Big Fire 2005 Pinot Noir ($19; Oregon): Lots of Oregon's trademark red berry fruit. Rodney Strong 2005 Pinot Noir "Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley" ($22): Lean flavors and a crisp edge of acidity; a great match with salmon. Do you have a question for Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood(a)washpost.com. Please include your name and address. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *