Mostly an update: Looks like an N of at least 10.
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
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From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Not Exactly Sideways at JP's
Greetings and Salutations,
We're doing something unusual this week. MERLOT.
Going to JP's.
The discussion and formulation went something like this.
It was at/near the end of our Burgundy tasting, and the Duck was
fantastic, but the wines were mixed....
Brgndy, when it's on, is incomparable. But the fickle grape is
less than consistant, reliable, etc. Short version:
High expectations, frequent dissappointment, occasional ecstasy.
Now for something completely different....
We rarely do merlot, but when we do, we are usually very pleasantly suprised....
Karin had been to JP's, and Karl was/is/always_has_been eager to host the
Thursday group.
JP's American Bistro
JP Samuelson Karl, Cheryl
2937 S. Lyndale 55408
(612) 824-9300
Yes/Guess:
Betsy
Bob
Lori
Warren/Ruth
Jim
Annette S.
Roger
Assumed Yes/Not on line:
Nicolai
Cheers,
Jim
Plush merlot reveals soul
Tim Teichgraeber
Special To The Star Tribune
Published March 31, 2005
Merlot sometimes catches flak for not having as much personality as other grapes. Cabernet
is known for deep black currant fruit and sturdy tannins. Pinot noir has finesse, more
delicate fruit and subtle earthiness. And syrah is brooding, spicy and meaty. What's
the particular charm of merlot?
What merlot can offer is rich red and black fruit without the hard tannins of cabernet.
The signature of great merlot is an unmistakably plush, velvety texture that I can only
liken to the feel of a fur coat. It's likeable rather than temperamental, and
reliable more often than amazing. Merlot is more politician than artist.
And like a good politician, every once in a while merlot shows that it has some heart and
soul. All it needs is the right vineyard site and a winemaker that takes it seriously.
. 2002 Canoe Ridge Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley Washington ($25). This Washington
estate consistently produces superior merlot, and this vintage is no exception. A personal
favorite of mine, it's flush with rich plum, blackberry, raspberry, earth and tobacco
aromas and flavors, generous mid-palate flavor and texture through the long, even finish
with hints of dried herbs and chocolate. *** 1/2 (Phillips Wines)
. 2001 Rutherford Hill Merlot Napa Valley ($25). From a winery that prides itself on
merlot, here's one that's worth boasting about -- the best it has produced in a
while. It has tightly wound bittersweet chocolate, black cherry and brambly blackberry
flavors, dusty tannins and a rich, plush mouthfeel. *** 1/2 (Johnson Brothers)
. 2002 Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Merlot Peumo Chile ($15). Quality is on the
upswing in Chile these days, and here's a perfect example. From its saturated color
to the luscious plum, cherry, mineral, anise, tobacco and vanilla flavors, this silken red
is sure to please. *** 1/2 (Paustis Wines)
. 2002 Echelon Merlot Central Coast ($13). There's a lot to like about this
exceptionally balanced merlot with deep blackberry and black cherry fruit flavors seasoned
with anise, vanilla and dried herb notes. Artfully made and very reasonably priced. ***
(Phillips Wines)
Poorly kept secret
. 2002 Cypress Merlot California ($9). Bargain hunters shouldn't overlook veteran
grape grower Jerry Lohr's Cypress line of varietal wines, including this juicy, deep
and balanced merlot with rich toast, black cherry, plum and herb flavors and fine, dusty
tannins. *** (Griggs Cooper)
startribune.com
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Last update: March 30, 2005 at 3:00 PM
First rule of wine etiquette -- relax
Tara Q. Thomas
Denver Post
Published March 31, 2005
There's no need to get in a lather over wine etiquette. Most of the rules still
passed off as "wine etiquette" tips went out with the advent of central heating.
Unless you're serving a crusty 20-year-old bottle of wine, leave the decanters in the
cupboard. Most wines today don't need to be opened until you want to drink them.
It's nice to have glasses with thin lips and graceful, long stems, which both look
nice and keep your greasy fingers from mucking up the view, but don't get uptight
about it. Use what you have, because the first rule of wine etiquette is to remain
relaxed. Wine is about pleasure, after all.
Now that those two biggies are out of the way, here are some other tips that will ensure
that your guests are comfortable and the wine flows smoothly.
. Have water and nonalcoholic beverages easily accessible for those who don't want to
drink alcohol. Teetotalers should not feel like they are making a scene.
. Taste a wine before filling the glasses to make sure it isn't corked. There are few
more uncomfortable situations than having to tell your host the wine she served is flawed.
. Fill glasses a little less than half full so the wine can be swirled without spilling.
Swirling isn't an affectation: Most of what we interpret as flavor comes from scent.
. When pouring wine, keep the neck of the bottle off the lip of the glass.
. Keep a napkin handy to catch any drips, too. A stain on the tablecloth or your
guest's blouse is far more gauche than holding a napkin under the bottle, ready to
catch drips.
. Refill glasses before they are empty, but don't be too eager to keep them topped
up, or your guests might feel rushed to drink more.
. If you're serving many wines, have a container handy where guests can discreetly
dump any wine they would rather not finish.
. Traditionalists will want to fill ladies' glasses before the men's, pour from
the guests' right, and hold the bottle so that the guest can view the label as
you're pouring. Unobtrusiveness trumps tradition, however, so if pouring from the
right means sticking your arm between two people engrossed in conversation, pour from a
different side.
. You don't have to open bottles brought by guests. They are gifts, for you to do
with what you want.
Local distributors
Local distributors willing to take calls are listed at the end of each review. They can
refer you to retailers who carry these wines.
.Griggs Cooper and Co., 651-646-7821
.Johnson Brothers, 651-649-5800
.Paustis Wine Co., 763-489-4120
.Phillips Wines, 651-637-3300
**** Exceptional
*** Highly recommended
** Recommended
* Satisfactory
Tim Teichgraeber, formerly of Minneapolis, is a San Francisco-based wine writer and
entertainment attorney. He can be reached online at tim(a)timskyscraper.com.
Copyright 2005 Star Tribune. All rights reserved.
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