[wine] More Bubbles (fwd) Strib

Minor correction. I believe we had the Gruet Blanc de Noirs on Wednesday. I'll check my notes, my order. These days there's sparkling news from all over By BILL WARD, Star Tribune December 18, 2008 Back in the 1970s, there was a popular book -- at least in my economic and aspirational world -- called "Champagne Living on a Beer Budget." Talk about an anachronism. These days, it's easy to find a bottle of good sparkling wine for about the same price as a six-pack of standard beer. It might not be from the French region of Champagne, but there are dandy bubblies being made everywhere from Austria to Australia and several points in the good ol' U.S. of A. Including, yes, New Mexico, where the Gruet family is making delicious bubbly in the Old World (Methode Champenoise) style. Like Gruet, many of California's top sparkling-wine producers were started or steered by families from Champagne: Domaine Carneros (Taittinger), Domaine Chandon (Moë& Chandon), Roederer Estate (Louis Roederer), Mumm Napa (Mumm) and Piper-Sonoma (Piper Heidsieck). Bill Paustis, owner of local distributor Paustis & Sons, marvels at the strides made on these shores. "When I started at this, we were confronted with the Gallo Andrénd not much else," he said with a chuckle. "The quality has gone up enormously, and the popularity along with it." Bubbly aficionados were distressed a few years back when the estimable S. Anderson house in Napa went out of business, but there's more tasty sparkling wine coming from California -- J Cuvee and Gloria Ferrer, along with all of the above -- than ever. (Mourning S. Anderson fans can still purchase some through the winery that took over the property, at www.cliffledevineyards.com.) That's only the beginning of the global spread of bubble- licious wines. One of Australia's few growth areas is in sparkling shiraz. Given how harmonious champagne and sushi are, it's no surprise that we're suddenly seeing a lot of Japanese sparkling sake at wine bars and stores. But it's Europe that's spawning the widest range of interesting stuff. I've come across two delicious Austrian sparklers this year, Szigeti Grüeltliner Brut and Schloss Gobelsburg. Italy is exporting boatloads of zingy, food-friendly Prosecco; try the Zonin Special Brut for around $11 and the Santa Margherita Valdobbiadene for around $20. And cava from Spain might well be the best bargain going in the wine world; Cristalino (widely available) and Paul Cheneau are dandy for less than $10, and the Montsarra Brut provides great bang for the buck (about 15 of them). Back in sparkling wine's home nation, crénts from the Loire and Alsace regions offer up great value in the $15 to $22 range; also emanating from the Loire are some swell effervescent Vouvrays (chenin blanc grape) and Sancerres (sauvignon blanc). And in its home region, there are spectacular bottles from $35 on up. There's absolutely no need (or reason, really) to shell out several hundred simoleons for trendy Cristal or Ace of Spades. I sampled a spectacular Pol Roger Champagne recently, and love Pierre Peters, Aubry, Billecart-Salmon (especially its killer brut rosé Veuve Clicquot (often available for criminally low prices at Costco), Moë& Chandon, Henriot, Bollinger and Nicholas Feuillatte. Oh, and anything with Terry Theise's name on the back label. Speaking of labels, the lingo describing the dry-sweet level of bubbly is confusing but important to know. From dry to sweet, it goes Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry (don't ask me!), Sec and Demi-Sec. But the main thing to remember is that this is a wine for all occasions. Obviously, it's great for New Year's Eve, birthdays, etc. -- as my friend Brian Tockman says with a smile, "Nothing says 'party' like a magnum of champagne" -- but its acidity and flavors make sparkling wine a great match with all types of food. Which brings me to some especially good news: The ever-resourceful Kim Bartmann has finagled deals that allow her to sell a lot of top-notch champagnes at retail at Cafe Barbette and Red Stag Supper Club. These are beautifully chosen bottles providing great value in the $50 to $100 range. Or you can stay home and have a bottle with some potato chips, a pairing that Marilyn Monroe made famous. Clearly, the lady only "played" dumb on celluloid. Bill Ward . bill.ward(a)startribune.com -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *