[wine] Rose' of course

This came out on Tuesday. Not sure how I missed it. Sorry If I double posted it. To Quote/paraphrase Randall Grahm. "Rose'. For those who know (or get it), and those who don't." Rosé20 & less Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, May 24, 2009 More... On this holiday weekend, the unofficial start of summer, thoughts turn to chilled, refreshing wines like dry roséThe versatility of a dry pink makes it easy to pair with warm-weather dishes. Rosés often made from red Rhone grape varieties, both single varietals like Syrah and Grenache, and blends. Pinot Noir rosé a favorite - is generally more expensive because of the cost of the fruit. The past few years have seen a rise in the amount of roséroduced. Many wineries seem to take roséore seriously, rather than making it as a by-product of their red wines. More wineries are jumping on the bandwagon as demand increases, so there is plenty of rosén the marketplace now to try. Here are some recommendations, but taste around to find your favorite as a refreshing accompaniment to summer fare. 2008 Angove Nine Vines South Australia Grenache/Shiraz Rosé$13) The Nine Vines brand of Angove, one of Australia's oldest family-owned wine companies, gets its name from the nine vines remaining in its original historic Adelaide vineyard. Bright cherry and spiced raspberry aromas and flavors; shows a bit more body and fruit intensity. Good acidity with hint of plum skin-like tannins on the finish. 70 percent Grenache; 30 Syrah. (Importer: Trinchero Vineyards) 2008 Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare California Rosé$15) Santa Cruz-based Randall Grahm, who has produced wine since 1983, put a flying saucer on the label to poke a little fun at the Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1954 decree banning alien spacecraft from landing in vineyards. A slightly spiced, refreshing light quaffer with a hint of astringent bite on the finish. Almost 60 percent Grenache with smaller amounts of Cinsault, Roussanne, Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache Blanc. 2008 El Coto Rioja Rosado ($12) Since the release of El Coto de Rioja's first bottling in 1975, the Rioja Alta winery - which now owns about 65,000 American oak casks - has become a leading brand in both Spain and Europe. The floral perfumed nose has highlights of red cherry and plum; delicate palate of light strawberry with slight skin tannins on the finish. Made from equal parts Grenache and Tempranillo. (Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons) 2008 Paul Jaboulet Aî Parallele 45 Cotes du Rhone Rosé$13) F Founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet, this winery is still run by the Jaboulet family. The name refers to the 45th latitude of France's Rhone Valley. This dry roséhows strawberry, cherry and red raspberry juice. Very refreshing, with tart cherry and good acidity; an initial hit of tartness segues to a long finish. Contains 50 percent Grenache, 40 Cinsault and 10 Syrah. (Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons) 2008 Robert Hall Rosée Robles Hall Ranch Paso Robles Rosé$14) W Winery founder Robert Hall purchased his first vineyard in 1995 after deciding to settle in Paso Robles. Winemaker/director Don Brady came on board in 2001, and now works with a wide range of grapes, including most Rhone varieties. Medium bodied with red raspberry and cherry aromas and flavors with a hint of tangerine peel, plus enough acidity and stuffing to take on foods like roast pork or a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. A blend of 47 percent Grenache, 41 Syrah and 6 each of Cinsault and Mourvedre. -- To learn more about rosésee the links with this story on sfgate.com/food. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/24/FDOJ17MK0G.DTL This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle Rethink pink After tasting 135 domestic rosé here are our top picks Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, May 23, 2008 Roséas finally shed its sweet label. But with so many wineries scrambling to make a dry roséare the new arrivals any good? Production of premium American roséhas dramatically increased (see the accompanying story). Last year, The Chronicle Tasting Panel evaluated 81 domestic pink wines, 12 of which we recommended. This year the numbers were even higher, as U.S. wineries flooded us with 172 dry still rosé After excluding wines released more than a year ago and those not readily available at retail in the Bay Area, there were still more than 135 contenders to consider. We strapped in for a long ride. (Click here for the domestic roséicks.) More wineries - noticing customer interest and rosé increasing sales - are producing pink wine. Roséan be made three ways. The traditional method is to crush red grapes, then bleed off some juice - referred to as "saignee" - to intensify the color and tannins of the remaining juice. Another method becoming more prevalent is choosing grapes specifically for rosépressing the whole clusters, allowing minimal skin contact, then fermenting it like white wine. Less usual is blending red wine with white wine for a resulting pink. Saignee rosés made by seasoned winemakers like Storybook Mountain's Jerry Seps, who has been making between 100 and 300 cases of Zinfandel roséor the past 12 years, and roséewcomer Blackbird Vineyards, which just released its first vintage of 400 cases made from 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Franc. Paul Leary, Blackbird's chief marketing and operating officer, says the production of roséas not been part of the winemaking regimen, but something both he and proprietor Michael Polenske decided to do as roséovers. oséf pinot noir Other winemakers choose the whole-cluster route. Richard Sanford, founder and owner of Alma Rosa Winery and the co-founder of Sanford Winery, has been making whole-cluster Pinot Noir roséince 1976. Sanford and his wife, Thekla, love dry Pinot Noir Vin Gris for its unique flavor profile, aging it to develop some roundness - the 2006 vintage will soon be released. "Pinot Noir, with its subtle tannins and raspberry fruit quality, makes a beautiful rosé Sanford says. He prefers it to other grape varieties that have more aggressive tannins and can't bring himself to make rosérom anything else, despite the rising cost of Pinot Noir grapes, which curtails his production. On the flip side, Beam Wine Estates' large-volume Clos du Bois entered the roséarket last year with 4,600 cases of its inaugural 2006 vintage, which had limited distribution. Winemaker Erik Olsen had wanted to make a dry French-style roséor some time but became more motivated after a trip to Southern France, where he thought it remarkable how much roséas consumed - "more roséit seemed, than anything else," he says. The Clos du Bois rosérogram combines saignee with whole-cluster press. Olsen picks some roséesignated Syrah vineyards at 22.5 Brix, a measure of the grapes' ripeness - about three to four weeks earlier than Syrah destined for red wine. Earlier harvest means lower sugar (therefore lower alcohol) and more acidity, which is maintained with cooler harvest temperatures, one reason the grapes are picked at night or early in the morning. Syrah, Olsen says, is a natural base grape to use for roséecause it is readily available and affordable. For the 2007 vintage, Clos du Bois upped its production of Sonoma County Roséo 20,000 cases. Besides Pinot Noir, Syrah and Grenache, Sangiovese also make good rosé Washington state's Barnard Griffin Winery, founded in 1983, began its rosérogram almost by accident. Owner-winemaker Rob Griffin's interest was piqued by the amount of dry roséine distributors were carrying from Spain and Southern France. Griffin's friend, grower Maury Balcom, planted 4 acres of Sangiovese, which Balcom intended to make into red wine. Washington-grown Sangiovese, Griffin noted, often makes a mediocre wine, but its fruit is well defined. Picking Sangiovese early for rosénhances its high acidity and the tannins are mitigated by avoiding overextraction. Griffin says, "I made 600 cases of Sangiovese rosén 2001 almost as a lark and it became successful beyond our wildest expectations. It seems that wines that make the lightest reds make the best rosé a lesser degree of ripeness and bright, fruit-driven characteristics that come on early - like Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and some Cabernet Franc - are best in Washington." ast coast pink While The Chronicle's Tasting Panel mostly reviewed West Coast roséthe East Coast is no stranger to it. Wolffer Estate Vineyard in the Hamptons, Long Island, first made 42 cases of rosén 1992. Only one or two Long Island wineries were making roséhen, but now almost every winery makes one, according to Wolffer winemaker and technical director Roman Roth. Roth, who began his winemaking career in Germany before moving on to Australia's Rosemount Estate, then to Saintsbury in Napa Valley, makes roséy blending white wine and wine made from red grapes. Roth says this blended style complements his red wine program - for instance, using Cabernet Sauvignon for rosén cooler years when it wouldn't do as well vinified as a red wine. Wolffer Rosé the 2007 vintage is a blend of 40 percent Chardonnay, 35 Merlot, 17 Cabernet Sauvignon and 8 Cabernet Franc - sells out each summer, even with the increase from 2,500 to 4,000 cases in 2006. Domestic wineries are making more solid roséBut during this year's panel tasting, 135 wines and 25 recommendations later, we discovered none that soared. Though we liked more wines, the highest rating was 2 1/2 stars; last year, three wines reached the 3-star mark. What's happening? While more wineries are jumping onto rosé bandwagon, the net effect seems to be that there are more subpar wines on the shelves. The panel found bottles that had volatile acidity, apparent bacterial off flavors and uneven winemaking. But there was still plenty to enjoy. The challenge of rosé future is to continue introducing wine lovers to dry pinks while maintaining the quality in the face of ever-expanding production. Winemakers need to discover the grape varieties, appellations and winemaking techniques that make the best rosé I can't wait until next year's tasting. nside Chronicle Wine Selections F4 | Recipes for rosé5 E-mail Lynne Char Bennett at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/23/WIAG10PADK.DTL This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle The Chronicle Wine Selections: Dry Imported Roséynne Char Bennett Friday, May 16, 2008 More stores and restaurants are responding to consumers' growing interest in roséine, which has become the hot quaffer to quell the heat of warm weather. Both imported and domestic roséare becoming increasingly available - a good thing since more consumers are discovering them. Most rosécurrently on retail shelves are imports, accounting for 76.6 percent of U.S. roséales, according to the Nielsen Co. Still, the number of domestic versions, which we will review next week, is also increasing dramatically. Practically every winemaking region produces this enjoyable pink drink. A similar diversity of grapes make these wines, including red Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, Barbera and Tempranillo, as well as more obscure grapes like Gaglioppo and Zweigelt. Rosés made with juice from red and black grapes that has had minimal contact with the dark grape skins, which contribute color and a small amount of tannins to the wine. Last year, the panel tasted 72 imported roséfrom 14 countries, recommending 11. This year's imports numbered 93, of which 17 are recommended below - a pleasant improvement from last year's less promising showing. Relatively few wines were submitted again this year, including last year's 3-star R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Crianza Rioja RoséBut the number of new entries this year underscores the diversity of choices available on shelves. The majority of our recommendations are from France, which comprised more than 25 percent of the wines we tasted. The French have been making roséor a while and for the most part doing it well. While the wines ranged from light- to medium-bodied, the panel enjoyed those with good fruit expression, moderate intensity, zippy acidity and great balance. Most had minimal tannins - as roséhould - but several showed a little grip, which adds textural interest. Well-made roséenerally garners a solid 2- to 2.5-star rating, though occasionally a few rise above. All should be enjoyable. Try a few bottles, find your favorite and stock up for the summer. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Bastianich Venezia Giulia Rosato ($15) Earthy nose with loam and herb roots; high-pitched floral note above cherry, dried blackberry, and spice aromas and flavors. Exotic and lean with mineral bounce and grip on the palate. From winemaker and restaurateur Joseph Bastianich, who founded Italian Wine Merchants and whose mother is culinary expert Lydia Bastianich. This wine is 100 percent Refosco - a lesser-known Northern Italian red grape. (Importer: Dark Star Imports) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Cantina Terlan Alto Adige Lagrein Rosé$17) Slight musky aromas with citrus and olive. Dense, almost meaty texture; intense dusty blackberry. Medium body, brightness and grip with great expression. From Italy. (Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Cascina La Ghersa Piage Monferrato Chiaretto Barbera ($15) Slight funk and musk on nose amid tart raspberry and lemon zest, plus earth and mineral notes. Straightforward with bright, acidic backbone. From Italy. (Importer: Epic Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé$12) Slight herb and chive blossom notes over strawberry and passion fruit aromas; lean, fresh palate with plum, cherry and mineral nuance. Made with 50 percent Mourvedre, 40 Syrah, 10 Grenache Noir. From France. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Domaine du Jas D'Esclans Cru Classe Cotes de Provence Rosé$23) More complex, aromatic nose but less intensity on palate; strawberry, orange peel, chopped herb with pink grapefruit peel and grip on finish. Contains 60 percent Cinsault, 30 Grenache, 10 Carignan. From France. (Importer: Organic Vintners) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Domaine Saint Andre de Figuiere Le Saint Andre Vin de Pays du Var Rosé$10.50) Light salmon color with light, delicate body. Strawberry, plum skin and some mineral with fresh herb and a hint of cotton candy on finish; straightforward with mouthwatering acidity. French, with 25 percent each Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 El Portillo Mendoza Malbec Rosé$11) Meaty, peppery, earthy and soy notes under the sweet-tart currant, strawberry with tart citrus and herbal punch on finish. Spice, zippy acidity and grip in this straightforward Argentine wine. (Importer: San Francisco Wine Exchange; the 2007 vintage is imported by Palm Bay International) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Fra Guerau Montsant Rosé$15) Floral aromatics, roasted cauliflower, loam and caramel hints with crushed blueberry and peach skin on finish. A stoic, dark-toned effort with plenty of structure. Montsant is within Spain's larger Tarragona region. Made with 50 percent Merlot, 25 Syrah, 25 Garnacha. (Importer: Freixenet) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rosé$10) Meaty nose of bacon, underripe berry and nectarine with some underlying gravel and tannin on the clean fruit finish. Produced from 50 percent Cinsault, 40 Grenache and 10 Syrah by Jean Pierre Perrin - a member of France's Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel. (Importer: Vineyard Brands) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Librandi Ciro Rosato ($14) Crushed strawberry with peppery spice. Ripe, plush; a little alcohol showing. Mineral punch and grip on the finish. The wine is 100 percent Gaglioppo, which is prevalent in Calabria, Italy; when vinified as red wine, it has been described by some as a straightforward Nebbiolo. (Importer: Winebow) Rating: THREE STARS 2007 Loimer Kamptal Roséable Wine ($15) Stony slate, strawberry-rhubarb compote and crushed blackberry aromas and flavors. Lean, grippy, taut profile with lengthy finish. A standout for the price. It's 100 percent Zweigelt, which is Austria's most widely grown red grape - a 1922 cross between Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent. (Importer: Vin Divino) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Mas Grand Plagniol Costieres de Nimes Rosé$12) Full, weighty and a bit fleshy with a ripe but dry finish. Sweet cherry, ancho chile, cinnamon and plum aromas; similar flavors plus plum skin and some tannic grip on finish. Good even with medium-rare grilled beef. From France. (Importer: Winewise) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Sabine Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Syrah-Grenache Rosé$11) Named after winemaker Charles Bieler's daughter; cherry, peach pit and spiced, peppery finish. Weight and body enough to pair with pork and rare ahi tuna. Contains 70 percent Syrah, 30 Grenache from France. Good value. (Importer: Trinchero Vineyards) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Triennes Vin de Pays du Var Rosé$21) Dry dusty berry, red apple skin; lean with good acidity. Edgy, with pretty fruit on the palate. Pink grapefruit peel and slight grip on the finish. Outperforms its light profile. From France. (Importer: The Sorting Table) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Vignerons des Caves de Provence L'Estandon Cotes de Provence Rosé$11) Sweet raspberry, candied cherry Jolly Rancher and watermelon, with a spun sugar note on the nose, but lean and lively on the palate. Focused and tapered with slight pepper on the finish. Nice summer quaffer from France. (Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Vignerons du Mont-Ventoux Les Demoiselles Coiffees Cotes du Ventoux Rosé$11) Straightforward cherry, tangerine and mineral with herbal hint; lean acidity, light-bodied with long, focused finish. French-made blend of 50 percent Grenache, 30 Carignan and 20 Cinsault. (Importer: International Vineyards) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Vignerons du Mont-Ventoux Cotes du Ventoux O Rosé$13) Concentrated tart fruit on nose, plenty of mineral and herb, with watermelon, orange blossom and peach skin. Well-balanced French roséith less-ripe berry and an acidic backbone; even better with food. (Importer: International Vineyards) Panelists include Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jeff Berlin, sommelier, A CotéJon BonnéChronicle wine editor. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARSExcellent Rating: TWO STARS Good http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/16/WIT810HM6V.DTL This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *