Greetings, Happy New Year, Bah-Mitzvah!
Had some truly fantastic food at Alma. The three course, $39, prix fixe
was the order of the day for most of us. Alma tasting option is unusually
flexible. Diner's are able to pick "one form each column". That is
any starter, any primi/pasta and any entree. Local pheasant and
the risoto were very good.
This week, we've been invited to Muffuletta.
Muffuletta Cafe
2260 Como St. Paul, 55108
St. Anthony Park
651-644-9116
Style du jour is "Australian".
Yes
Warren/Ruth
Betsy
Bob
Russ
Jim/Louise
Guess:
Lori
Nicolai
Karin
Directions: Take Hwy 280 to Como, go east up the hill and then to the
second light (Carter).
Alt: Take Snelling to Como, West to Carter.
Cheers,
Jim
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Subject: 30SecWineAdvisor: Que Syrah, Sirah
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THE 30 SECOND WINE ADVISOR, Wednesday, Jan. 4, 2006
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IN THIS ISSUE
* QUE SYRAH, SIRAH Our interactive wine-education forum, Wine Tasting
101, reprises one of last year's most popular topics.
* HAYMAN & HILL 2002 MONTEREY COUNTY "RESERVE SELECTION" SHIRAZ-VIOGNIER
($11.99) A whack of oak dominates the nose, but bright and sunny Syrah
fruit comes through in this robust California wine's flavor.
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QUE SYRAH, SIRAH
Syrah, Shiraz, Sirah ... what's the difference? Historically, it's been
simple enough, if a bit confusing, to sort out these similar grape
names:
* SYRAH is the great French red-wine variety of the Rhone Valley, a
grape that legend traces to the Crusaders but that in reality goes even
farther back, probably brought to Gaul by the Romans some 2,000 years
ago.
* SHIRAZ is the name that the Australians gave Syrah, perhaps inspired
by that same Crusader legend, which holds - romantically if inaccurately
- that the French knight Gaspard de Sterimberg brought the first vines
home to his Hermitage vineyard in the Rhone from Shiraz in Persia.
* SIRAH-with-an-I - Petite Sirah - is a California grape most likely
named by 19th century marketers to evoke the real Syrah. Known in France
as Durif and long thought to be unrelated to Syrah, it's now known to be
a direct descendant of Syrah, a cross between true Syrah and another
little-known French variety, Peloursin. This lineage is further
complicated by the fact that some old California "field-blend" vineyards
of mixed vines have traditionally been misidentified as Petite Sirah.
All three sound-alike grapes can make similar wines, peppery and robust,
but those wines span a considerable spectrum from soft, fruity and
slightly sweet to big, tannic and ageworthy. Australia's Shiraz often
pushes the limits of fruit-forward, jammy and powerful, while the most
memorable Syrahs of the Northern Rhone - Hermitage, Cote-Rotie and
Cornas in particular - although big wines also, tend more toward the
structured and tannic, astringent but muscular, requiring cellar time.
Grown in warm New World climates (or unusually hot European summers),
Syrah shows a boldly fruity red-berry nature and may well be vinified
with the free-handed use of oak; look for a signature fragrant black-
pepper character and plenty of astringent tannin in cooler-climate
Syrah.
California Syrahs can go either way, and in an intriguing complication,
an increasing minority of the Golden State's Syrahs - including the
Hayman & Hill featured in today's tasting report - are labeled "Shiraz"
these days, perhaps as a marketing ploy aimed at capturing some of the
critical buzz that surrounds the version from Down Under.
Petite Sirah, meanwhile, has won a loyal corps of fans, even if some
Syrah aficionadoes diss it as second-rate. At its best, "P.S." makes a
hearty, ageworthy wine that earns its reputation the old-fashioned way.
This month in our Wine Tasting 101 forum, we reprise one of last year's
most popular topics, "Que Syrah, Sirah," sorting out the differences
among these familiar names. You're encouraged to taste the Syrahs,
Shirazes and Petite Sirahs of your choice, then drop in to WT101
http://community.netscape.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?nav=messages&folderId=4&…
to share your tasting reports, ask questions and talk about your
impressions.
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If you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at
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Why "Shiraz"? Perhaps because the Hayman half of the partnership is an
Australian. Hayman & Hill is a venture between two principals of
California's Blackstone Winery, Hayman (senior vice president of
operations of giant Constellation Brands' Pacific Wine Partners, which
owns Blackstone and other properties), and Dennis Hill, Blackstone's
chief winemaker.
HAYMAN & HILL 2002 MONTEREY COUNTY "RESERVE SELECTION" SHIRAZ-VIOGNIER
($11.99)
Spanning three continents in its marketing if not its style, this
California wine adopts the Australian name "Shiraz," while emulating the
practice of the French Northern Rhone by using a splash (7 percent) of
white Viognier to "lift" the hearty red with the white grape's aromatic
flavors. The result, sadly, is a bit spoiled by a whack of new oak that
brings to the nose an unfortunate impression of freshly sanded wooden
floors. Inky blackish-purple with a day-glo violet edge, the wine's
woody, almost resinous oak aromas are less than appealing, but the
flavor redeems the wine with bright and forward red-berry flavors and
crisp acidity, with oak present only as a spice. (Jan. 3, 2006)
FOOD MATCH: A rare pan-seared flatiron steak helps bring the wine
around, showcasing its fruit while diminishing that markedly oaky aroma.
VALUE: Apart from its excessive reliance on wood, it's a full-bodied,
robust wine with recognizable Shiraz-style Syrah character, and it's
reasonably priced against the competition at just over $10.
WHEN TO DRINK: Its heft and forward fruit should hold it for a year or
two on the wine rack, but I don't see it as a wine for longer-term
cellaring.
WEB LINK:
A page about Hayman & Hill appears to have been removed from the Pacific
Wine Partners' Website, which has its home page here:
http://www.pacwine.com/
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Find vendors and compare prices for Hayman & Hill on
Wine-Searcher.com:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Hayman%2bHill/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP
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Wednesday, January 4, 2006
Copyright 2006 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
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