Greetings,
Our plan B for this week is Zinfandel at Oddfellows, 4th and East Hennepin.
Parking in the lot on the corner of 4th and 1st. Bob left a message on Monday,
but they're not open Mon/Tues. Bob will let us know when they confirm.
Next week, Cabernet Sauv at the St Paul Grill.
Bruch, 5/22 at Bobino
Oddfellows / Boom
401 E Hennepin Minneapolis, MN 55414
612-378-3188
Yes: (mostly guesses)
Annette S.
Brian
Bob
Roger
Jim
Nicolai
Betsy late
Russ
Cheers,
Jim
April 27, 2005
Luring Women With the Chick Lit of Wine
By PATRICIA LEIGH BROWN
ST. HELENA, Calif.
IS it wine for "Desperate Housewives"? Soccer moms? Or for when Carrie Bradshaw
has dinner with Rachael Ray?
The wine industry's seduction of the American female consumer has begun. Not to be
outdone by Victoria's Secret, laundry detergent and countless other products, the
"girlie" wine has dawned, dressed in gift bags resembling see-through organza
negligees and bearing cosmetics-counter names like Seduction or hip-cute ones like Ros�
the Riveter or Mad Housewife.
Contrary to wine's male image, in which men score vintages and then hoard them in
cellars, women buy 77 percent and consume 60 percent of the wine in America. In response,
Beringer Blass Wine Estates, which is owned by the Foster's Group, is introducing a
low-alcohol, low-calorie chardonnay called White Lie Early Season Chardonnay.
The wine, its pedicure-red label and romance-novel cursive lettering - to flaunt on
supermarket shelves - has a promotion involving Jennifer Weiner, a best-selling chick-lit
author. The corks carry messages, familiar white lies like "I'll be home by
7" and "It's my natural color."
The chardonnay comes from Santa Barbara grapes that have been picked early, when the sugar
content is lower, and then further "de-alcoholized" to 9.8 percent. It is also
the product of extensive market research, which included tasting dinners in three cities
and informal conversations with book clubs, largely female phenomena that often involve
wine as much as literary analysis, said Tracey Mason, director for innovation of Beringer.
"As women, we understood how busy we are," said Ms. Mason, part of an all-woman
team, including a winemaker, Jane Robichaud, that developed the wine. "Women also
tend to give up things, whether it's time for themselves, or a gooey desert or that
second glass of wine."
To lure them, Beringer is promoting White Lie on cooking, travel and golf Web sites and
blogs, and in a writing contest to be judged by Ms. Weiner, whose second novel, "In
Her Shoes," is being made into a movie. "I saw 'Sideways,' " she
said. "I thought, man, I've been drinking merlot all these years. I'm an
idiot!"
That kind of snobbery on display in the movie - the image of swirling, sniffing
connoisseurs - has been one of many deterrents to mass consumption of wine, regardless of
gender, said Robert Smiley, a professor and director of wine industry programs at the
graduate school of management at the University of California, Davis. Only 10 percent of
Americans drink wine regularly he said. And at the supermarket, where about a third of
wine is bought, consumers "go to Safeway and see hundreds of different bottles, which
makes them confused and nervous."
The soft drink, beer and coffee businesses are dominated by huge brands like
Anheuser-Busch, he said, "which spends more than 10 times on promotion than the
entire wine industry." To compete, he added, winemakers "have to get
innovative."
So, with Freudian intensity, producers are finally delving into the female psyche. Women
have a more sophisticated palate, said Barton O'Brien, whose O'Brien Family
Vineyard makes Seduction, a Napa Valley red, described as "a voluptuous wine with
sensual flavors and a velvet kiss" on the label. "Women are into mouth feel and
a long finish," he said. In other words, seduction.
To conceptualize Mad Housewife, which made its debut in January, Mike Lynch, a founder of
Rainier Wine in Seattle, did Internet surveys with 250 women. "Our concept was the
edgy housewife," he said. The label reads as if written by Hallmark's evil twin:
"Somewhere near the cool shadows of the laundry room. Past the litter box and between
the plastic yard toys. This is your time."
Leslie Sbrocco, the author of "Wine for Women" (William Morrow, 2003), said that
more than men, "women look for the experience" in wine. "We think about who
we're with, what we're eating," Ms. Sbrocco said. "Women buy visually,
paying attention to packaging. They look for a transition between day and night, work and
play."
Eric Asimov, the chief wine critic for The New York Times, called White Lie "wan and
diluted."
"But," he said, "there's some good flavor underneath."
Not surprisingly, the very notion of a woman's wine has already generated a
mini-backlash. "I find it demeaning," said Kris Curran, of Curran Wines in the
Santa Rita Hills, near Santa Barbara. "It's implying that women don't have
as sophisticated a palate."
Ann Colgin, owner of Colgin Cellars in St. Helena, which makes collectible, small
production "cult" wines, said she would find the idea of a male wine "a
little silly."
"Women enjoy fine wine as much as any man out there," she said. As for calories,
she added: "I'd rather have one great glass of wine and a small piece of dark
chocolate than a whole box of SnackWells."
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *