[wine] 06 Burgundy

2006 Bourgogne Rouge Lynne Char Bennett Friday, October 17, 2008 Very few wine lovers have an opportunity to taste Burgundy Grand Cru - made from the classified vineyards in France's Burgundy region - which is highly sought after and can command astronomical prices. Fortunately, there are less expensive options for wines made with grapes sourced from a wider region within Burgundy instead of a specific vineyard. These wines, which are labeled Bourgogne rouge, are made from Pinot Noir grown vineyards anywhere within Burgundy. The variable 2006 vintage produced some very good workhorse wines, while some Grand Crus were less than stellar. A vigneron can choose to "declassify" or market a wine at lesser status, which includes bottles labeled as basic Bourgogne instead of Grand Cru, if the wine's quality makes it appropriate. Notable Burgundy producers, including Michel Picard and Olivier Leflaive, may declassify a wine if certain lots of grapes are not up to the quality of their best bottles. Of the 19 wines tasted, our favorites showed red fruit, bright acidity, slight tannic grip and were light- to medium-bodied. Compared to Oregon Pinot Noir, the 2006 red Burgundy is leaner and lighter-bodied - in some cases austere - making the Oregon bottlings seem almost voluptuous. And since Oregon Pinot Noirs are less fruity and more acidic than those from California, these Bourgogne wines are nothing like the darker-fruited California Pinots that some prefer. We recommend the Bourgogne rouges for Pinot lovers who seek out high-acid, less-fruited wine, especially at the dinner table. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Bruno Colin Bourgogne Rouge ($26) In 2004, Bruno Colin founded his domaine, which is half of the Michel Colin-Deleger family holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet. Colin vinifies his red wines for 12 to 18 months in oak barrels, 30 percent new. Richer and more deeply extracted with violet, vanilla, cinnamon and baked raspberry backed by a savory, earthy note. Lemon peel brightness and dry leaf flavors; tangy palate that finishes with slightly drying tannins. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Chauvenet-Chopin Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($27.50) Chauvenet-Chopin was created through the marriage of Daniel Chopin's daughter to Hubert Chauvenet, who is the domaine's winemaker. Red licorice, strawberry and brilliant cherry are underscored with loam, clove and mineral. A leaner, austere style that finishes with slight grip. (Importer: Robert Kacher Selections) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Gerard Raphet Les Grands Champs Bourgogne Rouge ($30) From vineyards in Morey-St. Denis, this bottling has dried cherry, candied raspberry spiced with loam and cinnamon Dentyne gum aromas. The palate is weightier and more serious, with rich, dense fruit, bright acidity and slight plum skin on finish. Nicely balanced. (Importer: North Berkeley Wine Imports) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Michel Picard Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($15) From proprietor Michel Picard, whose chateau is in Chassagne-Montrachet, which is just south of the Cote de Beaune. Only 20 percent of this wine saw time in 1- to 2-year-old oak barrels. Buoyant red plum, spice and tomato leaf note, with tart cranberry, richer boysenberry and plum skin on the palate. (Importer: Brown-Forman Beverages) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Olivier Leflaive Cuvee Margot Bourgogne Rouge ($26) Olivier Leflaive and his brother Patrick are negociants who also own 25 acres of vineyards. Sweet plum, raspberry and cherry with hints of soil and charcuterie on the nose. Clean, crisp red fruit flavors and spice on the palate which shows more tannin than fruit. (Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Perrot-Minot Bourgogne Rouge ($40) Under direction of Christophe Perrot-Minot, son of Henri and Marie-France Perrot-Minot, the family's Cote de Nuits domaine has increased the amount and quality of estate-bottled wine, of which 30 to 40 percent were formerly sold to negociants. Plenty of sweet, toasty oak spice overlays the rather delicate cherry-raspberry and tart red plum fruit. (Importer: Martine's Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Philippe Colin Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($26) Philippe Colin - who holds the other half of Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger - is Bruno's older brother. With some air, the rustic loam and earth opens to kirsch, sour cherry and balsam aromas. The relatively weighty palate offers buoyant light cranberry, kirsch and sweet cherry edged by refined minerality. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Rene Lequin-Colin Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($18) Cranberry, cherry pie, ripe boysenberry and vanilla with hint of soil and leather aromas. Glossy oak provides some richness on the finish, but moderate tannins and slightly rigid acidity emphasize the leanness. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Robert Groffier Pere & Fils Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($46) Vigneron Robert Groffier and son Serge source their grapes from two vineyards that are adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard Clos Vougeot and to Morey-St. Denis. This bottling has a fresh, floral character plus delicate cranberry, framboise and thyme touched with spice and limestone. (Importer: Atherton Wine Imports) Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon Bonné, Chronicle wine editor; Jeff Anderson, sommelier, Gary Danko. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good - -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *