9 May
2011
9 May
'11
11:04 p.m.
FYI
2008 Red Burgundy: The Chronicle recommends
Jon BonnéSunday, May 1, 2011
-- Note: Starting this week, The Chronicle is printing alcohol levels for all recommended
wines. They are listed next to the price.
2008 Domaine Arlaud Roncevie Bourgogne Rouge ($25; 13% alcohol):
The Morey Saint-Denis-based Arlaud family employs biodynamic farming methods and plows
with horses. They source their basic Bourgogne from a parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin. It
shows pretty raspberry and cranberry, mineral and deeper fruit-leather tones. Exactly
where it should be. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports)
2008 Domaine Faiveley Clos des Myglands Monopole Mercurey Premier Cru ($35; 13% alcohol):
Faiveley has been fantastic under Erwan Faiveley (see sfg.ly/lgwfM4) and no better proof
than wine from Myglands, in less fashionable Mercurey, which shows all the nuance of great
Burgundy. Jasmine tea, sachet, white stone, sassafras and huckleberry. Deeply perfumed,
with wonderfully bright cherry fruit and proper grip. And seek out another monopole, Clos
de l'Ecu Beaune Premier Cru ($57; 13% alcohol), which highlights the finesse that
Faiveley brings to Burgundy's tricky tannins. (Importer: Wilson Daniels)
2008 Charles Audoin Cuvee Marie Ragonneau Marsannay ($33; 13% alcohol):
From the northern tip of the Cote d'Or, Cyril
Audoin makes wines that show Burgundy's more delicate side, with whites and reds that
share a textural similarity. Minty, with far more mineral intensity and tannic structure
than robust fruit. A tiptoe sort of wine, almost wanting fish. Give it a couple of years,
and compare it to its nuanced white-wine counterpart, Audoin's Au Champ Salomon
($39). (Importer: Martine's Wines)
2008 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or Clos Tavannes Santenay Premier Cru ($60; 13% alcohol):
One of Volnay's most noted estates also makes a standout Santenay. And Pousse
d'Or's in-your-face style brings out the sultry, spicy side of what's
usually a light, carefree appellation. Fecund and aromatic, with some distinct wood and
aromatic power: full of sandalwood, cocoa, truffle and savory berry fruit. (Importer:
North Berkeley Imports)
2008 Morey-Coffinet Morgeot Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Premier Cru ($54; 13.2% alcohol):
Young Thibault Morey is showing off the best of Chassagne-Montrachet, which too often sits
in the shadow of neighboring Puligny. Red Chassagne is a little-known treat - Pinot grown
on white-wine soils. Muscular and heady, with Chassagne's crunchy mineral signature,
plus soy, cedar and pronounced tannins that underscore the plum and dark cherry fruit. And
consider his white Chassagnes, like Blanchots Dessus ($87), as a cellar choice. (Importer:
Martine's Wines)
2008 Bouchard Pere et Fils Ancienne Cuvee Carnot Volnay Caillerets Premier Cru ($75; 13.5%
alcohol):
Under ownership of Henriot, the historic Bouchard house is pulling off a similar feat to
Faiveley, elevating a well-known Burgundian name. The Carnot perfectly frames
Volnay's complexity. Sanguine and tight-knit, with a floral presence - orange peel,
black tea, dried flowers, thyme and damp forest floor. Also keep an eye out for
Bouchard's 2008 Reserve Bourgogne Rouge ($20; 12.5% alcohol), a wonderfully drinkable
entry point. (Importer: Henriot Inc.)
2008 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru ($90; 13% alcohol):
Drouhin's voluminous holdings are widespread, but several premier cru parcels in
Chambolle (Noirots, Hauts Doix, Combottes and so on) are small enough to be combined in
this cuvee. Robust and slightly sweet in its fruit, with carob, coppery tang, soy, loam
and a winning musky depth. (Importer: Dreyfus Ashby)
2008 Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Gevrey-Chambertin ($58; 12.5% alcohol):
This Gevrey house focuses on the heavy-hitting reds of the Cote de Nuits, from Gevrey
itself plus Vosne-Romanee, Chambolle-Musigny and Echezeaux. It's still getting its
sea legs, with a distinct spice note, plus dried sage, pepper and allspice wrapped around
leathery, cherried Gevrey fruit. Give it two to three years. (Importer: Beaune Imports)
2008 Perrot-Minot Vieilles Vignes Vougeot ($60; 13% alcohol):
Christophe Perrot-Minot makes a wide range of wines along the Cote de Nuits in a flashy,
appealing style. You don't often encounter village-level Vougeot, but this is a
standout - deep, oak-inflected and winning, full of sandalwood, dried heather, layered
mineral and ripe, forceful red fruit. The Vieilles Vignes Chambolle-Musigny ($75; 13%
alcohol) retains the dense, seductive style, but applies it to bright Chambolle fruit.
(Importer: Martine's Wines)
2008 Louis Jadot Domaine Clos Vougeot Grand Cru ($95; 13.5% alcohol):
Though Jadot's Jacques Lardiere is a Burgundy master, we weren't swayed by the
Jadot 2008 village wines. Totally different story with his Clos Vougeot, a brilliant
example of what Jadot can do so well. Tense and mineral-powered, with a hint of its oak
but quickly moving to show its layers: dried flowers, pu-erh tea and chalky earth,
finessed red fruit and a lithe, taut frame. Not even showing its full depths, but the
sheer quality of Vougeot fruit is there. (Importer: Kobrand)
Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Rebecca Rapaszky, manager, Vin, Vino, Wine;
John Vuong, wine director, Ame restaurant.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/05/01/FDMV1J8KG7.DTL
This article appeared on page H - 7 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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