[wine] Naked is the Norm in France

B-Bob's fascination w/ many things French further explained. Cheers, Jim Chardonnay, when unoaked, has a place at the summer table By Dave McIntyre Special to The Washington Post Tuesday, August 17, 2010; 3:48 PM When the humidity sucks the air from our lungs and our clothes stick to us like Velcro, our tendency is to reach for light, refreshing wines. Roséand crisp whites such as sauvignon blanc, Portugal's vinho verde or assyrtiko from Greece fit the bill nicely. We find ourselves avoiding bigger wines, those with bold fruit, low acidity and copious oak. In other words, ixnay on the chardonnay. But we would be wrong to turn our backs on chardonnay altogether. True, chardonnay has more heft than most other white wines, but sometimes we need a wine with a little more structure to pair with bolder-flavored foods. And not all chardonnay is made in the low-acid, barrel-fermented style. Unoaked chardonnay (which marketers call "naked") has become a fad in recent years wherever the grape is grown, from Australia and New Zealand to California, New York and Virginia. Unoaked chardonnay is not new. The French have been making chardonnay without barrels for centuries, especially in the northern and southern reaches of the grape's homeland, Burgundy. In Chablis to the north and the Maconnais to the south, unoaked chardonnay is the norm. So what's wrong with using barrels to ferment and age chardonnay? Nothing. But barrels add tannin and wood flavors to the wine that make it bigger and heavier, fine for richer foods but inappropriate for summer heat. Chardonnays from Chablis and the Maconnais have another advantage: They are lower in alcohol - typically 12 to 13 percent - than those from warmer climes such as California and Australia, which are usually 14 percent or higher. In winter, that may not matter, but in summer it makes for a more refreshing wine. This week, I will focus on the mainstay chardonnays from the Maconnais, which are labeled Macon or Macon-Villages. We'll save the more serious Chablis for next week. The Maconnais lies at the southern end of Burgundy, just north of Beaujolais. But more important, it is where France makes its leisurely transition from the rainy north to the sunny, Mediterranean-influenced south. The wines reflect this shift; they are neither as demanding nor austere as the great chardonnays of the Cote d'Or, such as Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. Yet their structure and minerality make them undeniably Burgundian. Best yet, they are affordable. The Maconnais has five appellations: Macon, Macon-Villages, Saint Veran, Virélessénd Pouilly FuisséThe latter three tend to be higher in quality and price, while basic Macon is often simple table wine. The most interest and the best values can be found in Macon-Villages. These wines are usually labeled as Macon with the name of the particular village. So you might see a Macon-Uchizy or even a Macon-Chardonnay, from the commune that supposedly gave the grape its name. Each village has its own terroir. Older-style wines may have a hint of oxidation that gives them an exotic tropical flavor that reminds me of Juicy Fruit gum. The 2008 Macon-Lugny from Maison Louis Latour, a major Burgundy wine shipper, is a prime example and a steal at $13. Many domaines now limit the wine's exposure to air, yielding a slight citrusy nature and emphasizing the wine's minerality. The 2008 Macon Solutréouilly from Domaine de la Chapelle ($20) is a nice example of this modern style; focused and powerful, the wine continues to evolve in the glass and tastes even better the day after opening. Macon-Villages chardonnay can be delicious by itself, but the wine's acidity and minerality make it an excellent foil for a variety of foods, especially grilled chicken and fish. The key is to be receptive to a style of chardonnay that may be unfamiliar if you are accustomed to New World wines. Recommended chardonnays Tuesday, August 17, 2010; 3:55 PM Christophe Cordier Macon-Charnay "Vieilles Vignes" 2008 Burgundy, France, $23 Superb focus and minerality draw your attention to your glass, where you'll find some really nice chardonnay. Kacher/Washington Wholesale: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, MacArthur Beverages, Pearson's; on the list at Adour and Marcel's. Domaine de la Chapelle Macon Solutre Pouilly 2008 Burgundy, France, $20 It's big for a Macon, with great focus and intensity, plus a structure that unfurls with time in the glass; it tastes even better the day after it is opened. This is a white wine that might benefit from decanting about a half-hour before dinner. Weygandt-Metzler/Potomac Selections: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Weygandt Wines; on the list at BlackSalt. Available in Maryland at the Wine Source and North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits in Baltimore; on the list at B Bistro in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Whole Foods Market Arlington. Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy "Les Maranches" 2008 Burgundy, France, $13 (Great Value) This is focused and rich, with surprising intensity for the price. M Touton Selection: Available in the District at Bacchus Wine Cellar, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Paul's of Chevy Chase, S&S Liquors. Available in Maryland at Old Farm Liquors in Frederick. Available in Virginia at Balducci's in Alexandria, Whole Foods Market Vienna, various Wegmans locations. Vincent Girardin Macon-Fuisse "Les Vielles Vignes" 2008 Burgundy, France, $18 Ripe and rich, it almost mimics a New World chardonnay, but the minerality at its core keeps it decidedly French. Vineyard Brands/Bacchus: Available in the District at Zola Wine & Kitchen; and on the list at Againn, Chef Geoff's, Chef Geoff's Downtown, the Oval Room. Available in Maryland at Town & Country Wine Liquor Etc. in Easton, the Wine Bin and Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City, Cranbrook Liquors in Cockeysville, Wells Discount Liquors and Pinehurst Wine Shoppe in Baltimore, Mays Chapel Wine and Spirit Shop in Timonium. Celine et Laurent Tripoz Macon-Loche 2008 * 1/2 Burgundy, France, $18 This wine, Demeter-certified as biodynamic, is a bit of an outlier. It is decidedly riper than the others, suggesting a cut apple that has been left on the table awhile. After a few minutes in the glass, it begins to reveal additional complexity, and it continues to gain interest for some time after that. Elite Wines: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits; on the list at Johnny's Half Shell and the Willard Room. Available in Maryland at Chesapeake Wine Co. in Baltimore; on the list at Jean-Michel in Bethesda and Woodberry Kitchen on Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Balducci's and Cheesetique in Alexandria, various Whole Foods Market locations. Maison Louis Latour Macon-Lugny "Les Genievres" 2008 Burgundy, France, $13 (Great Value) For the price, this wine is tough to beat. It offers crisp acidity and rich tree-fruit flavors of peach and apricot, with a hint of something more exotic. M Touton Selection: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Burka's Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Pearson's, Wine Specialist and Yes! Organic Market. Available in Maryland at Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington, Adega Wine Cellars in Silver Spring, Rodman's in White Flint, Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville, Wine Cellars of Annapolis, Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, Old Farm Liquors in Frederick, the Wine Shoppe in Waldorf, Rosewick Wine & Spirits in La Plata. Select Wines in Virginia: Available at various Giant Foods, Total Wine & More and Harris Teeter locations, and Wegmans in Fairfax and Lake Manassas. Key *** Exceptional ** Excellent * Very Good Prices are approximate. Availability information is from distributors and might not reflect current inventory; call wine stores to verify, or ask a favorite store to order through a distributor. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *