TN Pinot Noirs at Ingredients Café 10 May 2007
Very pleasant evening. Restaurant review: ambience C+, food B+, value for
money A. Too bad White Bear Lake is, from our viewpoint, in northern
Wisconsin someplace.
Bill of fare:
Tempura shrimp, mango, chorizo (think there was roast sweet potato too)
Goat cheese & mushroom tart, arugula, 25-year-old balsamic
Roast duck breast, figs, braised cabbage
Baby rack of lamb, ratatouille, rosemary jus (regrettably, no one brought
Bordeaux)
Flourless chocolate cake w/ bananas Foster
White 1: clear rich color, attractive floral aroma, is this a dry Riesling?
Tastes more like chenin, excellent balance, big fruit and acid snap in the
mouth, minerals and herbs, trace alcoholic at transition, finishes a touch
sweeter than it tastes, excellent length, very fine. 2006 Overstone
Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough. (Im not usually a fan of NZ SB, but this was
a terrific bottle.)
Rose 1: nice color; nose of artificial strawberry with a touch of dead
potato, not tasted. 2006 Yangarra Rose McLaren Vale (60% shiraz, 40%
grenache).
Bubbly 1: rose, medium reddish, dark as sparkling rose goes; nose pinot and
minerals, fresh fruit as it warms; rich, structured, flavorful and extremely
dry; finishing aromatics fill the palate, good but perhaps not outstanding
length, very fine New World bubbly. 2000 Iron Horse Brut Rose, Sonoma Green
Valley.
Bubbly 2 (white): sweet fruit nose; sweet and tasty, high dosage and soft
compared to preceding wine but attractive; clean, good length, nice wine.
NV Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley. (This wine tends to taste structured
to the point of austere, but seemed sweet and soft after the very low dosage
Iron Horse. This particular bottle was reportedly about a year old.)
White 2: at this point I had some of the very spicy chorizo and shrimp in
my mouth; thus no detailed notes. Snappy mineral sauvignon blanc with the
substance to stand up to, and wonderfully complement, the deliciously rich
and hot spicy shrimp dish. 1999 Stonestreet Sauvignon Blanc, Upper Barn
Vineyard, Alexander Valley.
Pinot noirs tend not to show well in hot weather, and tonight was not an
exception.
1.1 odd light color; very strong nose of freshly struck match (another
guest said ashtray); not tasted. 2004 Nackenheimer Spatburgunder Rotwein
Trocken, Binz.
1.2 too much VA on nose for me, not tasted. 2001 Echelon Pinot Noir,
Central Coast. (Probably not a representative bottle, although for what it
is, this is pretty old.)
1.3 corked. 2003 Pinot Noir Trocken, Pfalz, Alfred Bonnet.
2.1 medium to light color; intensely floral-dirt nose, with a fruit
component that smells very young; smooth, decent depth of flavor, tannin,
acid, sap, red fruits; good aromatic finish, good length, interesting
midweight. 2000 Claudia Springs Pinot Noir, Mendocino. (I was surprised
this wasnt a younger wine.)
2.2 dark color for pinot; nose dumb, although I like what little I can
smell; midpalate alcohol, shoe polish, wood, red fruits, dirt, unusual but
interesting; alcoholic transition and finish, fruit returns late but wood
very obvious; fruit level improved as the wine aired. Not sure whether this
is starting to be too old, or not old enough; probably the former. 1999
Cambria Pinot Noir, Bench Break Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley.
2.3 clear medium purple; another dumb nose (were battling kitchen smells
to some extent) but whats perceptible is OK; lovely mouthfeel, smooth and
rich, medium fruit level; nice transition but the wine goes away quickly,
lacks flavor authority overall. 2005 Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir,
Mornington Peninsula (Australia). (Not expensive, so I wasnt expecting La
Tache, but this was disappointing. The wine may possibly need more time to
rest up from its journey across the Pacific.)
3.1 corked.
3.2 rich deep color; earthy smoky nose; in the mouth a hottish wine, red
fruits, tannin; quite hot at transition, finish goes away soon. 2003
Chorey-Cote-de-Beaune, Tollot-Beaut. (May be a casualty of the 2003 heat
wave, but its hard to resist the impression this wine might be better
somewhat younger, or somewhat older, or just on a different evening.
Wonderful producer.)
3.3 clear medium purple; rich sweet Dijon clone in the New World nose with
real depth of primary fruit; big wine in the mouth, again lots of primary
fruit, wood is just barely over the line into offensively cotton candy oaky
(for my particular taste); alcohol on transition and finish, VERY long.
Despite its virtues, not special on this particular evening. 2004 Kosta
Browne Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast.
3.4 looks and smells aged and interesting; nose of red and black fruits,
forest floor, intensity and balance; good transition, good length, more
fruit and flavor authority would be nice but this is extremely well balanced
and attractive overall. 1999 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, Carneros. (Very good
match with the rosemary sauce on the lamb, whereas that sauce with the
sweetness of the Kosta Browne wine was a train wreck.)
Dessert deep gold; intense piney nose, vin santo? Rich citrus pear stone
fruit taste, plenty of acid to carry the considerable sweetness, long and
smooth, very good indeed. 2001 Witness Tree Sweet Signe, Eola Hills.