[wine] Central Coast Cab

Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, October 10, 2008 California's most widely grown red grape variety is Cabernet Sauvignon. The Central Coast region is no exception, though Cabernet is produced by more wineries in its northern portion, including Paso Robles. Most of the bottlings recommended from our tasting of 66 wines include a percentage of traditional red Bordeaux grape varieties (such as Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot). One producer also included a bit of Syrah. Central Coast Cabs generally lack the cachet of their Napa Valley brethren, but they also lack Napa Valley's higher prices. We have recommended several that will fit either modest or big-bash budgets. Rating: TWO STARS 2004 EOS Estate Bottled Reserve Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) Named after the mythological Greek goddess of the dawn, EOS wines are produced under the hand of Nathan Carlson. Vanilla, cedar, cassis and mocha with hints of applewood smoke; black cherry and raspberry highlights. Fresh, lifted palate with lingering spice and oak. With 15.1 percent Malbec and 5 percent Petit Verdot. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Estancia Keyes Canyon Ranches Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) Estancia planted almost 700 acres in Paso Robles, along the Estrella River, 400 of which are Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker Scott Kelley aged this bottling for 14 months in American and French oak, 25 percent of which was new. It shows bright cherry cola, raspberry, light roast coffee, sandalwood and mint within a leaner, tarter, less oaky style; vibrant, with a long finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Firestone Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) Interesting expression. Red pepper, sachet, loam and chocolate-covered cherry with ripe, finely grained tannins. Food-friendly - good with a medium-rare burger. Includes 5 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Merlot. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Five Rivers Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($10) Winemaker Steve Peck used fruit from 7-year-old estate vineyards, accented with that from 13-year-old vines in this widely available wine. Red cherry and blueberry gently blanketed with oak spice; lighter-bodied, lively and balanced. Includes 5 percent Merlot, 2 percent Malbec and 2 percent Petit Verdot. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Hahn Estates Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) Primarily from Paso Robles grapes, this wine has sweet oak spice, vanilla and juicy raspberry and blackberry fruit. A straightforward quaff from a consistent performer, it has soft, approachable tannins and bright acidity. Sixteen percent Syrah and 6 percent Merlot and a touch of Petit Verdot Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Heller Estate Cachagua Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) From Heller's estate vineyards that are certified 100 percent organic. Berry shake, licorice and dusty dry wood; dusky tar brightened with strong red fruit; layered with earthy mineral. Vanilla, oak and tannins on finish. Includes 20 percent Merlot. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Jekel Vineyards Arroyo Seco Monterey Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) Jekel, founded in 1972 and one of Monterey County's older wineries, produces a wine that has an intense, rustic nose, with loam, dark plum, boysenberry pie and faint herb; ripe, round tannins provide focus. Straightforward and easy drinking. A blend with Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Peachy Canyon De Vine Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) High-toned, spiced berry, tart raspberry and soy with bright herbal hint. Buoyant, generous palate; rich mouthfeel tempered by bright acidity. Winemaker Josh Beckett aged this wine in 35 percent new French oak after minimal racking. Limited production. Includes 10 percent Petit Verdot. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Star Lane Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) Winemaker Nick de Luca and consulting winemaker David Ramey have crafted an evocative, complex wine, with mocha, leather, nori and loam; balanced with fleshy plum, cherry and tart blackberry. Elegant and balanced, with a somewhat fleshy palate. Purchased in 1996 by Jim Dierberg, Star Lane Ranch is planted to 230 acres. Includes 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Petit Verdot. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Three Saints Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) From Dierberg Estate grapes of Star Lane Vineyard, located in eastern Santa Ynez Valley. Perfumed violet, black raspberry, dry loam, pencil lead and savory notes with sweet jam highlights. Nice tannic structure, lingering finish. Includes 5 percent Cabernet Franc and 2 percent Malbec. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Wente Vineyards the Nth Degree Livermore Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) Founded 125 years ago, Wente is said to be the country's oldest, continuously operated family-owned winery. This wine - named for the meticulous farming of its vineyards - has sultry but elegant aromas. Deeply extracted, dark char, roasted plum, blackberry jam and a savory note on the palate. Almost over the top but well made. Limited production; 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Panelists: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon Bonn�. Chronicle wine editor; Dita Blackwell, co-owner, Blackwell's Wines & Spirits. For additional recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good - Lynne Char Bennett http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/10/WIA713AA6M.DTL This article appeared on page F - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle