[wine] TBD at Craftsman, rose' ratings (fwd)

Heading to Craftsman next week. Short week. Wine style is still being debated, although rose' was suggested. List of pairings in the SFGC makes a good case for rose. OTOH, I've stopped bringing rose' to the group because I find the wines to be so much more pleasant w/o the kvetching. (e.g. the 2.5 star rated Eye of the Toad dry PN Rose I've brought in the past.) Zin or Syrah might also work w/ the Craftsman menu. Cheers, Jim Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 09:25:18 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Craftsman tonight ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 10:53:50 -0600 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Greetings, Thursday at 6:30. The Craftsman Restaurant 4300 E. Lake St. (NE Corner) Minneapolis 612.722.0175 www.craftsmanrestaurant.com Hwy 55 to Lake, then East to 43rd. Hwy 94 to Cretin, South to Marshall, west to 43rd. River Road to Lake, west to 4300. Here's my best guess at the list. Lori Betsy Bob Ruth Russ/Sue Jim/Louise Ruth Warren Dave T. Cheers, Jim Rethink pink After tasting 135 domestic rosé here are our top picks Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, May 23, 2008 Rosévary in color from pale blush to raspberry, dependi... Roséas finally shed its sweet label. But with so many wineries scrambling to make a dry roséare the new arrivals any good? Production of premium American roséhas dramatically increased (see the accompanying story). Last year, The Chronicle Tasting Panel evaluated 81 domestic pink wines, 12 of which we recommended. This year the numbers were even higher, as U.S. wineries flooded us with 172 dry still rosé After excluding wines released more than a year ago and those not readily available at retail in the Bay Area, there were still more than 135 contenders to consider. We strapped in for a long ride. More wineries - noticing customer interest and rosé increasing sales - are producing pink wine. Roséan be made three ways. The traditional method is to crush red grapes, then bleed off some juice - referred to as "saignee" - to intensify the color and tannins of the remaining juice. Another method becoming more prevalent is choosing grapes specifically for rosépressing the whole clusters, allowing minimal skin contact, then fermenting it like white wine. Less usual is blending red wine with white wine for a resulting pink. Saignee rosés made by seasoned winemakers like Storybook Mountain's Jerry Seps, who has been making between 100 and 300 cases of Zinfandel roséor the past 12 years, and roséewcomer Blackbird Vineyards, which just released its first vintage of 400 cases made from 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Franc. Paul Leary, Blackbird's chief marketing and operating officer, says the production of roséas not been part of the winemaking regimen, but something both he and proprietor Michael Polenske decided to do as roséovers. Roséf Pinot Noir Other winemakers choose the whole-cluster route. Richard Sanford, founder and owner of Alma Rosa Winery and the co-founder of Sanford Winery, has been making whole-cluster Pinot Noir roséince 1976. Sanford and his wife, Thekla, love dry Pinot Noir Vin Gris for its unique flavor profile, aging it to develop some roundness - the 2006 vintage will soon be released. "Pinot Noir, with its subtle tannins and raspberry fruit quality, makes a beautiful rosé Sanford says. He prefers it to other grape varieties that have more aggressive tannins and can't bring himself to make rosérom anything else, despite the rising cost of Pinot Noir grapes, which curtails his production. On the flip side, Beam Wine Estates' large-volume Clos du Bois entered the roséarket last year with 4,600 cases of its inaugural 2006 vintage, which had limited distribution. Winemaker Erik Olson had wanted to make a dry French-style roséor some time but became more motivated after a trip to Southern France, where he thought it remarkable how much roséas consumed - "more roséit seemed, than anything else," he says. The Clos du Bois rosérogram combines saignee with whole-cluster press. Olson picks some roséesignated Syrah vineyards at 22.5 Brix, a measure of the grapes' ripeness - about three to four weeks earlier than Syrah destined for red wine. Earlier harvest means lower sugar (therefore lower alcohol) and more acidity, which is maintained with cooler harvest temperatures, one reason the grapes are picked at night or early in the morning. Syrah, Olson says, is a natural base grape to use for roséecause it is readily available and affordable. For the 2007 vintage, Clos du Bois upped its production of Sonoma County Roséo 20,000 cases. Besides Pinot Noir, Syrah and Grenache, Sangiovese also make good rosé Washington state's Barnard Griffin Winery, founded in 1983, began its rosérogram almost by accident. Owner-winemaker Rob Griffin's interest was piqued by the amount of dry roséine distributors were carrying from Spain and Southern France. Griffin's friend, grower Maury Balcom, planted 4 acres of Sangiovese, which Balcom intended to make into red wine. Washington-grown Sangiovese, Griffin noted, often makes a mediocre wine, but its fruit is well defined. Picking Sangiovese early for rosénhances its high acidity and the tannins are mitigated by avoiding overextraction. Griffin says, "I made 600 cases of Sangiovese rosén 2001 almost as a lark and it became successful beyond our wildest expectations. It seems that wines that make the lightest reds make the best rosé a lesser degree of ripeness and bright, fruit-driven characteristics that come on early - like Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and some Cabernet Franc - are best in Washington." East Coast pink While The Chronicle's Tasting Panel mostly reviewed West Coast roséthe East Coast is no stranger to it. Wolffer Estate Vineyard in the Hamptons, Long Island, first made 42 cases of rosén 1992. Only one or two Long Island wineries were making roséhen, but now almost every winery makes one, according to Wolffer winemaker and technical director Roman Roth. Roth, who began his winemaking career in Germany before moving on to Australia's Rosemount Estate, then to Saintsbury in Napa Valley, makes roséy blending white wine and wine made from red grapes. Roth says this blended style complements his red wine program - for instance, using Cabernet Sauvignon for rosén cooler years when it wouldn't do as well vinified as a red wine. Wolffer Rosé the 2007 vintage is a blend of 40 percent Chardonnay, 35 Merlot, 17 Cabernet Sauvignon and 8 Cabernet Franc - sells out each summer, even with the increase from 2,500 to 4,000 cases in 2006. Domestic wineries are making more solid roséBut during this year's panel tasting, 135 wines and 25 recommendations later, we discovered none that soared. Though we liked more wines, the highest rating was 2 1/2 stars; last year, three wines reached the 3-star mark. What's happening? While more wineries are jumping onto rosé bandwagon, the net effect seems to be that there are more subpar wines on the shelves. The panel found bottles that had volatile acidity, apparent bacterial off flavors and uneven winemaking. But there was still plenty to enjoy. The challenge of rosé future is to continue introducing wine lovers to dry pinks while maintaining the quality in the face of ever-expanding production. Winemakers need to discover the grape varieties, appellations and winemaking techniques that make the best rosé I can't wait until next year's tasting. Inside Chronicle Wine Selections F4 | Recipes for rosé5 E-mail Lynne Char Bennett at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/23/WIAG10PADK.DTL THE CHRONICLE WINE SELECTIONS: Domestic Dry RoséFriday, May 23, 2008 Rating: TWO STARS 2007 A to Z Wineworks Oregon Rosé$13) Dark, ripe aromas and flavors of herb, bright berry and chocolate hints; a dusky, straightforward palatal grip with black plum skin on the finish. Basic but pleasing. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Balletto Russian River Valley Roséf Pinot Noir ($16) A hint of earthiness underlies apricot, tangerine and some candied berry aromas; bright, juicy berry flavors are straightforward and refreshing. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Barnard Griffin Maurice Balcom Vineyard Columbia Valley Roséf Sangiovese ($12) Fresh, full strawberry with a touch of waxed red apple; intense strawberry flavors and sweet fruit core are balanced by buoyant acidity. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Bonterra Vineyards Mendocino County Rosé$14) This inaugural release is made from organically grown grapes. Cherry/strawberry Jolly Rancher, bright raspberry, mint and light peach aromas with fresh, focused palate. 54 percent Sangiovese, 24 Zinfandel, 22 Grenache. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Bybee B Vineyards & Habitat Russian River Valley Roséf Pinot Noir ($24) The aromatic nose of black cherry and raspberry is a bit stoic; light but still substantial palate of cherry lozenge, dried citrus peel and red cherry on finish. Some structure from the healthy grip. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Clos du Bois Sonoma County Rosé$12) The perfumed nose offers floral notes with fresh lime, watermelon, pureed raspberry and hints of sugar but has a lean, clean palate. Intriguing bit of minerally grip on the finish. 70 percent Syrah, 30 Merlot. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Clos LaChance Pink-Throated Brilliant Central Coast Rosé$14) Straightforward ripe strawberry, huckleberry and pear, with a push of orange pith on the finish. A solid wine - fruit-forward but dry. 71 percent Grenache, 20 Syrah, 9 Pinot Noir. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Crane Brothers Eye of the Crane Napa Valley Syrah Rosé$20) Light aromatic red cherry, fresh herbal strawberry and pear but a touch of sulfur dioxide upon opening. Bright entry on palate with segue to nice fruit flavors but flattens a touch at the finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Epiphany Santa Barbara County Grenache Rosé$16) Tart red cherry, basic blackberry and citrusy tang with herb notes. Linear and a bit blocky on the lengthy finish but bright and food-friendly. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Fleur de California Carneros Vin Gris of Pinot Noir ($13) Luscious cherry and strawberry fruit with nose reminiscent of Jolly Rancher; dry, more serious palate with a zippy mouthful of ripe cherry and huckleberry. Lively and straightforward. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Heitz Wine Cellars Napa Valley Grignolino Rosé$18) California has about 100 acres planted to Grignolino, which means "many pips" in the Italian dialect of its native Piedmont region. Focused acidity and tannins nicely balance the cranberry, tart Bing cherry, nectarine and plum skin. Nuanced with great definition; one of the better Grignolino roséHeitz has made. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 La Crema Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Rosé$20) Some mineral, pine and dusty notes on the nose underscore sweet, brambly berry and subtle peach aromas and flavors. High-toned and fresh with real Pinot Noir depth. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Lazy Creek Vineyards Anderson Valley Roséf Pinot Noir ($25) Light-bodied with lively acidity. Savory spice, fennel, cumin and florid peach tones; juicy, bright and invigorating with a depth on the finish from nuanced tannins. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Loomis Family Vineyards Air Napa Valley Rosé$12) More dry baking spice and loam atop the red fruit nose. Cranberry, lemon zest and Bing cherry flavors but the fresh, juicy palate is a bit compressed and underfruited for its style. 57 percent Syrah, 24 Grenache, 19 Mourvedre. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Lynmar Estate Russian River Valley Roséf Pinot Noir ($20) Musky overtones amid sweet but delicate, tangy raspberry aromas; red berry flavors with a slightly soft, floral and rounded finish that shows a bit of alcoholic heat. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Montevina Terra d'Oro Amador County Rosé$14) Lilting red fruit with hints of mint, rose and underlying dusty character. An acid-driven palate with dense fresh cherry, nectarine and tart apple flavors. Tart, grippy finish goes better with food. Nebbiolo with 6 percent Syrah. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 SoloRosa Napa Valley Rosé$17) This "only roséwine is made from ripe Atlas Peak fruit and offers big gushes of dried orange skin, peach and tangy red berry with a balancing touch of tannic grip. 90 percent Sangiovese, 10 Syrah. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Storybook Mountain Vineyards Napa Valley Zin Gris ($19) A substantial, earthy style with loam, rustic plum, dark ripe berry and high-toned hints. Plump palate of strawberry-rhubarb compote with bright citrus core offers some depth and grip. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Toad Hollow Eye of the Toad Sonoma County Dry Pinot Noir Rosé$10) Aromas of light strawberry, cherry and sweet herb with a slight dusty nuance. Light and dry with sweet cherry depth on the lively palate; pretty, with a welcome touch of tannic grip. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Toulouse Anderson Valley Roséf Pinot Noir ($22) Concentrated fruit nose with a lurid, almost sweet palate that some people will love, and a tangy finish to lift it. Dense black raspberry, cherry and mandarin orange aromas; ripe strawberry and peach flavors Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Trentadue Monte Lago Vineyard Clear Lake Grenache Rosé$10) Attractive light rose color. Some high tones plus a pingpong of citrus and strawberry jam. A bit heavy on sweet fruit but has a bright, lively palate despite the touch of alcoholic heat on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Rosato di Sangiovese ($16) Attractive aromas of savory fresh herb, chive and raspberry; some dustiness on the nose. Sweet red fruit echoes on the palate; fresh and clean but a bit of heat shows on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Ventana Vineyards Arroyo Seco Dry Rosado ($18) Heavier aromas with dark, earthy red fruit wrapped with lots of pepper and herb notes; lively palate with notable grip, which balances the dense mouthfuls of fruit. 90 percent Grenache, 10 Syrah. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Wattle Creek Yorkville Highlands Rosé$17) Some interesting earth, meatiness and spice on the nose amid apricot jam, tangerine and stewed raspberry aromas and flavors. A tangy, linear finish. 95 percent Syrah, 5 Petite Sirah. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Wolffer Estate The Hamptons Roséable Wine($15) Light salmon color. Fairly complex nose with aromas and flavors of light herb, citrus, peach, mineral leanings and loamy nuance. Great length and vibrancy. 40 percent Chardonnay, 35 Merlot, 17 Cabernet Sauvignon, 8 Cabernet Franc. Limited availability. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Richard Dean, sommelier, Campton Place. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARSExcellent Rating: TWO STARS Good Winery-only rosé Many wineries make small amounts of roséor their club members and tasting room sales; occasionally they can be found on restaurant wine lists. Here are some recommendations, some of which may also be ordered online: 2007 Amity Vineyards Willamette Valley Ravenous Rosé$18) 2007 Arrowood La Rose Lasseter Vineyards Sonoma Valley Roséable Wine ($20) 2007 Blackbird Vineyards Arriviste Napa Valley Rosé$25) 2007 Frog's Leap La Grenouille Rougante Rutherford Pink ($14) 2007 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Napa Valley Malbec Rosé$18) 2007 Hartford Court Sonoma Coast Roséf Pinot Noir ($22) 2006 McDowell Valley Mendocino Grenache Rosé$14) 2007 Navarro Vineyards Mendocino Rosé$17) 2007 The Ojai Winery California Rosé$16) 2007 Sebastiani Eye of the Swan Sonoma County White Pinot Noir ($13) 2007 Stoller JV Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir Rosé$17) 2007 Summerland Winery Paso Robles Grenache Rosé$15) 2007 Tolosa Edna Valley Roséable Wine ($18) 2007 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Vin Gris of Pinot Noir ($18) http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/23/WIT810HN4F.DTL This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle