[wine] SA wines

South America Is on the Rise By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, September 23, 2009 I consider myself part of the "Anything but Chardonnay" crowd, at least until I taste a really great chardonnay. And I have tasted some fine ones recently that might persuade me to give up my skepticism toward this grape. They're not from Burgundy (which gets an automatic pass from the ABC crowd, anyway) and not from California, either. The chardonnays that excite me these days come from the Limari Valley of northern Chile. This is a region to watch: It could become the world's next source of consistently good chardonnay. Vines were first planted in the Limari (pronounced lee-mar-EE) Valley in the 16th century, but only in the past decade or so have some of Chile's great wine companies exploited this mountainous region for its grape-growing potential. Morning fog rolls in off the Pacific Ocean, much as it does in some of California's best chardonnay regions, and retreats in the afternoon, allowing the grapes to bask in the late-day sun. That helps maintain acidity and structure in the wine while allowing optimum ripeness. The Concha y Toro wine empire led the way in this region with its Maycas del Limari label; other familiar names followed, including Santa Rita. Limari is only part of the story, however. For new and exciting wines from South America, look also for bracing sauvignon blanc from Chile's Elqui or Leyda valleys, or stellar pinot noir and riesling from Bio-Bio, several hundred miles south of the capital, Santiago. In Argentina, where Mendoza defines value with malbec, look for intensely colored and spiced malbec from Patagonia in the south or exotically flavored torrontes from Salta or San Juan in the north. These are the emerging wine regions of South America, where established wineries and foreign investors are producing high-quality, value-priced bottles that are worth searching out. Products from Concha y Toro, one of Chile's oldest wineries, span the spectrum from basic jug wines to Almaviva, a rare and expensive cabernet-based blend that is a joint venture with Baron Philippe Rothschild of Bordeaux. The company's Maycas del Limari winery is setting the standard in the Limari region with a top-notch chardonnay, an elegant, supple syrah and a spicy, intense cabernet sauvignon. Farther south, in Bio-Bio, warm days and cool nights provide optimum conditions for producing ripe wines with vibrant acidity, ideal for Riesling and pinot noir, for example. Cono Sur, a popular value-priced brand, makes an excellent Riesling from Bio-Bio that would be great with Asian foods or delightful by itself. Agustinos pinot noir is crisp and lean, almost deceptively light in color and weight, with a firm core of acidity and fruit underneath. In Argentina, Mendoza still reigns supreme for quality and value. But farther north, winemakers are cultivating even higher-elevation vineyards in the Salta province, including its Cafayate Valley, and producing torrontes of exceptional quality. Torrontes can be quite flowery, which is attractive to some, including me. But in Salta it achieves firm acidity and structure that give it even more interest. Down south in Patagonia, reds -- especially Argentina's favorite grape, malbec -- exhibit intense color and spice. There are not enough of them yet to give Mendoza a run for its money, but the quality makes wines from other emerging regions worth seeking out. Dave McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, http://www.dmwineline.com, or at food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, September 23, 2009 Maycas del Limari Chardonnay 2008 ** 1/2 Limari Valley, Chile, $26 Enticing, racy yet sophisticated flavors, perfectly balanced with a long finish. Republic National: available in the District at Broad Branch Market, Georgetown Wine & Spirits, Harris Teeter locations. Available in Maryland at Rip's Wine and Spirit Shop, Bowie; on the list at Volt in Frederick. Maycas del Limari Syrah 2008 ** 1/2 Limari Valley, Chile, $26 A terrific New World-style syrah, with new oak polishing nice ripe blackberry fruit and moderate (14 percent) alcohol. (Also good: the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon.) Republic National: available in the District at Georgetown Wine & Spirits, Harris Teeter locations. Agustinos Reserva Pinot Noir 2008 ** Bio-Bio, Chile, $15 (Great Value) Delightful; in weight, body and texture it resembles some of the lighter, more delicate Burgundies of the Cote d'Or, although the aromas are spicier, with hints of eucalyptus and mint. Whole Foods Market recently featured this wine at $11, making it a terrific value. Country Vintner: available in the District at Whole Foods Market P Street; available in Maryland at Mills Fine Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, Chesapeake Gourmet in Queenstown; available in Virginia at Whole Foods Market locations in Fairfax, Alexandria and Reston. Santa Rita Medalla Real Chardonnay 2008 ** Limari Valley, Chile, $18 (Great Value) Excellent, with impressive depth and balance, and a core of mango and passion fruit shining through a halo of oak. Republic National: available in the District at Sheffield Wine & Liquor Shoppe. Callia Alta Torrontes 2008 * 1/2 Valle de Tulum, San Juan, Argentina, $9 (Great Value) Racy and flowery, a fine aperitif or partner for slightly spicy foods. The malbec also is good. Republic National: available in the District at Burka's Wine & Liquor, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Press Liquors, Riverside Liquor, S&R Liquors; on the list at Cashion's Eat Place, Grill From Ipanema. Valle Perdido Malbec 2006 * 1/2 Neuquen, Patagonia, Argentina, $16 (Great Value) Deep color and jammy blueberry fruit tinged enticingly with mint give this wine a decidedly New World accent. It should appeal to fans of Australian shiraz. Good acidity prevents it from becoming sappy. Nice Legs: available in the District at Chat's Liquors, D'Vines, De Vinos; on the list at Perry's. Available in Maryland at Cork & Fork in Bethesda, Frederick Wine House. Available in Virginia at Unwined in Alexandria, the Wine Seller in Herndon, the Wine House in Fairfax. Cono Sur Riesling 2008 * Bio-Bio, Chile, $9 (Great Value) A nice, dry Riesling, good as an aperitif or with seafood. The 2009 vintage is coming soon and will taste a bit racier for its youth. Both are fine. Bacchus: available in the District at Capitol Supreme Market, Magruder's, Paul's of Chevy Chase, U Street Mini Mart; on the list at Heritage India. Available in Maryland at Mount Washington Wine Co. in Baltimore, Calvert Discount Liquors in Cockeysville. Vinedo de los Vientos "Estival" 2008 * Atlantida, Uruguay, $15 This is a fun blend of Gew?rztraminer, chardonnay and moscato bianco, featuring litchi and other tropical flavors with a hint of sweetness. Uruguay Imports: on the list in the District at Mio. Available in Maryland at the Wine Bin in Ellicott City; on the list at Pure Wine Cafe in Ellicott City. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *