[wine] Pinot Gris (SFGC)

Just in time for the dawg days of August (Daug Days?) Cheers, Jim 2009 Pinot Gris Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, August 1, 2010 2009 Acrobat Oregon Pinot Gris 2009 Castle Rock Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 2009 Cline Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Gris 2009 Etude Wines Carneros Pinot Gris More... Say the word "Pinot" and although most folks will answer "Noir," nowadays "Gris" is often the reply. Pinot Gris - a mutation of Pinot Noir - is perhaps the most important white grape variety in Oregon, and increasingly in California. California bottlings made up nearly 40 percent of 3 dozen wines in this tasting. Pinot Gris can offer more body, acidity and definitive fruit than Pinot Grigio (another name for the same grape), which is usually a fresh but unassuming, straightforward quaff. This year, we were pleasantly surprised to discover more consistent quality. Most were bottlings that we would enjoy with dinner - a testament to the very food-friendly nature of this grape and a familial character shared with its Pinot Noir cousin. 2009 Acrobat Oregon Pinot Gris ($12): King Estate's second label sees time on its lees, though less than the King Estate Signature bottling. Medium-bodied; ripe and fruity with apple, pear and white peach underscored by tart citrus and hint of mineral. Fairly long, crisp finish. 2009 Castle Rock Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($14): Castle Rock, a consistent performer in tastings, began sourcing Oregon fruit about five years ago. This is the company's second Pinot Gris but the first from Willamette Valley. Fresh and clean with sweet fruit and floral hints to accompany the light, lively palate. Well balanced with a long finish. 2009 Cline Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Gris ($12): Cline Cellars - known for its Rhone varietals and Zinfandel - also makes a goodly amount of Pinot Gris, sourced from the cool, breezy Petaluma Gap. An interesting light coppery-pink color; red apple, pear and cantaloupe with a savory hint; zippy but balanced acidity. Good availability. 2009 Etude Wines Carneros Pinot Gris ($24): Fruit for this wine comes from estate vineyards planted to certified Alsatian clones, which were planted a decade ago. A richer style, with Granny Smith apple, stone fruit and delicate tangerine; citrus zest on the finish. 2009 King Estate Winery Signature Oregon Pinot Gris ($17): Winemaker Jeff Kandarian kept 100 percent of this wine on the yeast for five months, which gives it the weight and mouthfeel to support this wine's riper style. Apple, pear and papaya with high citrus notes. Good acidity. 2009 Kings Ridge Oregon Pinot Gris ($13): This brand is from Union Wine Co., which brought on winemaker Greg Bauer last year to manage the new winery. Kiwi, apple, slight tropical fruit and stony aromas. A slightly round palate that hints at a bit of alcoholic heat; ending with more citrusy finish. 2009 Taz Santa Barbara County Pinot Gris ($15): After growing Napa Valley grapes for 40 years, Bob "Taz" Steinhauer moved to Santa Barbara County to further his craft. Fresh peach and yuzu with honeydew melon and pineapple. Juicy, tangy and a little creamy. A lovely, expressive bottling. Panelists: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer; Pierre Gulick, sales representative, Dee Vine Wines; and John Vuong, sommelier, Gary Danko. Lynne Char Bennett is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/08/01/FDFD1EL6N4.DTL This article appeared on page K - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *