[wine] Current Fr. Whites, Zins at Odd Fellows TONIGHT

Add Fred to the list. Hoping the Howell Mt. bears don't join us.... ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 15:32:15 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Current Fr. Whites, Zins at Oddfellows Greetings, This week, we're doing current release French Whites and Zinfandels at Oddfellows. Oddfellows is one block east of Surdyks on Hennepin. I haven't really heard from anyone besides Annette, Russ, so these are mostly guesses. Tables are small, so make the reservation for 8? 10? Reminder that we go to La Fugaise next week. We're down for 10 people, but we want to provide Joyce and the rest. w/ an update by next Tuesday. Betsy Bob Lori Annette Karin Nicolai Jim Fred Cheers, Jim Growlin' good grapes Howell Mountain's intense fruit attracts winemakers and bears alike - Steve Pitcher, Special to The Chronicle Thursday, October 20, 2005 Not all connoisseurs of Howell Mountain wine grapes are human. Grower Mike Beatty, whose Black Sears Vineyard sits near the highest point on the mountain in northern Napa Valley, tells of a particular female black bear, easily identifiable because she was minus a claw on one paw, that frequently dined on his premium Zinfandel grapes. Hoping for relief, Beatty summoned Napa County Animal Services, and an officer lured the bear into a culvert trap and trucked her away. The next harvest, the same bear was back in his vineyard. This went on for a few of years, and finally Beatty asked the animal control officer where they took the bear. "To Lake County," the officer replied, where the bear was let loose. Turns out that when tourist season got under way in that county and the bear became a nuisance, Lake County Animal Control would trap her and truck her to Pope Valley, just east of Howell Mountain. The bear would then find her way back up the mountain to Black Sears Vineyard and resume feasting. You have to admire such fruit loyalty. And with grapes like these, it's no wonder. Howell Mountain is the source of exceptionally bold, full-bodied and rich Cabernet Sauvignons, Zinfandels and Merlots. The distinctive character of the grapes, different from those from the Napa Valley floor, led to the region being recognized in 1983 as Napa Valley's first subappellation -- shortly after Napa Valley itself became an American Viticultural Area (AVA). The reasons for the distinctive flavors are mostly climatic. During the day, Howell Mountain is cooler than most of Napa Valley, but it's warmer at night. And it's above the fog line -- in fact, that's where the AVA officially starts. These conditions are perfect for growing grapes that are small, tightly clustered and powerfully concentrated, for intense fruit flavors in the wines. In addition, the grapes develop thick skins that yield rich tannins. Climb to the vantage point of the modest shopping plaza in Angwin village, Howell Mountain's only town, under brilliant morning sunshine. Napa Valley down below might resemble a great basin filled to overflowing with billowing, whitish-gray meringue. The fog line -- technically an inversion layer, the elevation above which fog typically does not rise during the summer growing season -- forms the minimum altitude of the AVA. "We determined that to be 1,400 feet above sea level," says Beatty, also a co-proprietor of Howell Mountain Vineyards. How was it determined? "A group of Howell Mountain wine folks met at Beatty Ranch one dark and rainy night, spread out a topographic relief map, and anchored it with bottles of Howell Mountain Zinfandel, of course," he says. Howell Mountain is located northeast of St. Helena, above the Silverado Trail, between Napa Valley to the west and Pope Valley to the east. Wineries on this mountain are mostly tucked away in woods along side roads and open by appointment only. There are 14,000 acres within the Howell Mountain AVA, although fewer than 500 acres are currently planted to producing vines, which is less than the planted acreage on the mountain in the 1890s, and a tiny fraction of the 44,671 acres planted to vines in all of Napa Valley. Several non-resident wineries buy Howell Mountain grapes under contract. Others -- including Beringer Vineyards, Cakebread Cellars, Duckhorn Vineyards and Pina Cellars -- have their own vineyards on the mountain. The fruit is not cheap, and neither are the wines made from it. But the grapes are sought after because of Howell Mountain's growing conditions. "Daytime temperatures from May through September are as much as 10 degrees lower on the mountain than those of the valley" once the valley's fog burns off, says Beatty, who has lived and farmed on the mountain since the 1970s. "This protects the vines from the heat stress that typically weakens the grapes' acidity." Despite its mountain nomenclature, the Howell Mountain AVA is more accurately described as a high, rolling plateau, with vineyards carved out of thick forests of oak, pine and fir. From a low-flying aircraft, I saw that there are few really steep hillsides here, such as those that dot the Diamond Mountain District on the other side of the valley. Like majestic Mount St. Helena, Howell Mountain is the result of volcanic activity, although it was not a volcano itself. Rather, the mountain was formed by tectonic activity that pushed it up from below. It is, however, covered by vast quantities of pale tuff, which is white volcanic ash that has been compressed over time. Red and brown volcanic loam and iron-rich red clay complete the soil profile. "These soils are nutrient-poor, thus stressing the vines to produce intense wine from small clusters of berries," Beatty says. "Our soils are completely different from the rich, alluvial soils of the Napa Valley (floor), where crop thinning and canopy management are necessary to control vigorous growth. With our thin, rocky, well-drained top soils, vigor is naturally limited up here." The earliest plantings on Howell Mountain were mostly Zinfandel, Napa Valley's grape of choice in the late 1800s, and is still an important variety today, the source of some of the mountain's best wines. Its reputation as a fine-wine region can be traced back to 1889, when a red wine -- most likely Zinfandel -- from the Howell Mountain Winery, built by French emigres Jean Brun and Jean Chaix in 1886, was entered in the International Wine Competition of the Paris Exposition and took a bronze medal. A Howell Mountain "Claret" -- again, probably Zinfandel -- from neighboring Liparita Winery, built by W. F. Keyes in 1880, won the Grand Prize at the 1900 Paris Exposition. Both Howell Mountain Winery and Liparita became "ghost wineries" in the wake of Prohibition in the 1920s and '30s, as did nearby La Jota winery, which dates to 1898. Of the three, only the original Liparita Winery on Los Posadas Road, just outside Angwin, languishes today as a silent relic of the past, while the Liparita brand of wines, produced elsewhere, keeps the name alive. The Brun and Chaix winery, with its massive, 30-inch-thick stone walls, has been restored by proprietors Pat and Anne Stotesbery as a fully operational, gravity-flow winery, and is now home to Ladera Vineyards, a gently rolling, 185-acre estate with some 75 acres planted to vines. Ladera, which focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon under the direction of winemaker Karen Culler, is one of Howell Mountain's most accessible wineries for visitors with an appointment. The Stotesberys came to Napa Valley in 1996 and Howell Mountain in 2000 by way of Montana, where they operated a sizable cattle ranch in Big Sky country for several years. The ranch has been sold, but, says Pat, current president of the Howell Mountain Vintners & Growers Association, "I don't miss it. This is still agriculture, and it has totally replaced ranching for me." La Jota Vineyard Co., owned by Markham Vineyards since 2001, has also been resuscitated as a boutique winery, where winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls annually produces about 4,000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah from the 29 acres of vines on the 41-acre estate, which is not open to the public. While Zinfandel launched Howell Mountain as a wine region, and continues to be the passion of such producers in the AVA as Howell Mountain Vineyards, Lamborn Family Vineyards, Summit Lake Vineyards & Winery and D-Cubed Cellars, today the majority of the mountain's vineyards are planted to Bordeaux varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. One of the first to focus on quality Cabernet Sauvignon was Randy Dunn who, with his wife Lori, bought and revived a 5-acre Cabernet vineyard on Howell Mountain in 1978, with financial assistance from the owners of Caymus Vineyards in Rutherford, for which he was then making wine. His inaugural 1979 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon garnered much critical acclaim and attracted consumers' attention to Howell Mountain as a source of outstanding Cabernet. In 1991, by then devoting full time to his own winery, Dunn bought the nearby 47-acre Park-Muscatine vineyard, with 15 acres planted to Zinfandel, Carignane and Petite Sirah. This was the principal vineyard from which Ridge Vineyards president and winemaker Paul Draper purchased grapes to make many memorable vintages of Ridge Zinfandel, variously labeled "Howell Mountain" and "Park-Muscatine Vineyard" in the 1980s. Dunn replanted it mostly to Cabernet Sauvignon. "It was basically a matter of economics," Dunn says. "In those days, a winery could get maybe $7 to $10 for a bottle of Zin, but a Cab would sell for $15 to $25 or more. And besides, my expertise was with Cabernet rather than Zinfandel, and Cab was what I wanted to make." Dunn's massively proportioned, complex and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignons -- one designated Howell Mountain, the other Napa Valley -- are widely considered to be among Napa's greatest wines. His winemaking style has remained consistent all these years. "I'll continue to make tannic wines, wines of maximum extraction," Dunn says, "because we have the right fruit for that style of long-lived wine on this mountain. But I don't want hot alcohols, so I harvest at a reasonable Brix (ripeness level), and will decrease the alcohol as necessary by various methods to achieve balance." His Cabernets spend more than two years in barrel, stored in caves dug into the hillside of his rustic mountain property. Dunn, an admitted "tree-hugging dirt worshipper" (or so declares the bumper sticker on his truck), confides that while his Napa Valley-designated Cabernet previously contained some fruit from the valley floor, it is now made entirely from Howell Mountain fruit, some from his 35 acres of estate grapes and some purchased from other Howell Mountain growers. He says he can't have two Cabernet Sauvignons designated as Howell Mountain, so consumers buying the Napa Valley Cab are getting a bonus. Merlot made from Howell Mountain grapes is a powerful statement of the varietal, exhibiting more Cabernet-like muscularity and depth than typical Napa Valley Merlot. Beringer's Merlot from the Bancroft Ranch is the most well-known example, attracting connoisseurs and collectors since its first vintage in 1987. The rolling vineyard lies at an elevation of 1,800 feet on the western slope of Howell Mountain. The vines produce small, intensely flavored berries with powerful, concentrated fruit flavors. Beringer obtains grapes from two other vineyards at 1,800-foot elevation on Howell Mountain -- Beringer-owned Steinhauer Ranch, and Rancho del Oso, owned by Betty O'Shaughnessy, who has her own eponymous winery. Oso means bear in Spanish; the vineyard and winery are named after the red bear that climbs the deer fence and cavorts in the reservoir on the property. Duckhorn also makes a Howell Mountain Merlot in a bold style similar to the Beringer wine and has also invested heavily in vineyards on the mountain, which are planted primarily to Bordeaux varieties. "Growing grapes on Howell Mountain can be a logistical nightmare," says Duckhorn's winemaker, Mark Beringer. "Water is scarce, cultivation is challenging and yields are low. Yet working with the grapes from this mountain is a winemaker's dream." His sentiments are echoed by every winemaker on Howell Mountain and those elsewhere lucky enough to obtain some of its precious fruit. Dennis Johns, the proprietor/winemaker at White Cottage Ranch Winery, says, "We drink what we can, and sell the rest." A taste of Howell Mountain Winemakers say the aromatic descriptor of "raw red meat" that frequently shows up in their reds comes from extended contact of the juice and spent yeast during fermentation. A pretty violet scent is also common. Zinfandel 2002 Howell Mountain Vineyards Beatty Ranch Howell Mountain Zinfandel ($38) -- Spicy, very appealing nose of black raspberry and black cherry accented with a subtle meaty component. Concentrated, round and plush with copious berry fruit complemented by freshly crushed black peppercorn and a touch of dark chocolate; medium-full, supple tannins. 2001 Summit Lake Howell Mountain Zinfandel ($22) -- Shy aromas of red berry dusted with cinnamon and anise, along with black pepper. Richly textured with medium tannins, the concentrated flavors echo the nose; tapers to a wonderfully spicy close. Merlot 2001 Atalon Keyes Vineyard Howell Mountain Merlot ($60) -- Red cherry and raspberry, a touch of red meat, subtle mint and cedar define the nose. Elegant, with medium tannins, smooth texture and luscious black-fruit flavors that extend to a graceful finish. 2001 Beringer Bancroft Ranch Howell Mountain Merlot ($75) -- Vibrant, intense aromas of roasted meat and smoke, blackberry and black plum, brown spice and subtle orange zest. Powerful and muscular with ripe, chewy tannins and a juicy core of rich blackberry and black cherry, enhanced by notes of cocoa and mint. 2001 Duckhorn Howell Mountain Merlot ($70) -- Wildly aromatic with freshly crushed blackberry, cocoa, dried sage and a hint of mint. Complex and richly textured with medium-full, integrated tannins, it's powerful yet harmonious, offering a deep core of blackberry and cassis tinged with red raspberry, nutmeg, bittersweet chocolate and creamy oak. Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Bravante Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) -- Complex, alluring scents of red currant, cassis, black olive, raw meat and a touch of mocha. Full-bodied and muscular, with substantial tannins and copious dark berry fruit. One for the cellar. 2002 Cakebread Dancing Bear Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) -- Inaugural bottling from this 30-acre vineyard planted in 1999. Enticing nose of wild blackberry, subtle mocha, violet and dried lavender. Round, rich and powerful with intense dark berry fruit and evident, though supple tannins. 2002 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) -- Focused aromas of wild blackberry, cassis, mineral, mocha and a violet note. Silky smooth with ripe, supple tannins, it's polished and generous, with abundant berry fruit accented by warm spice and sweet herb; llingering finish. 2002 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($70) -- Rich, lovely aromas of ripe, freshly crushed dark berry, black currant and white pepper. Full-bodied with ripe, powerful tannins, a velvety texture and intense, concentrated, liqueur-like extracted berry fruit flavors that goes on and on. 2002 Highlands Beatty Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) -- Up-front scents of black fruit, violet, dried thyme and glove leather. Round and juicy with medium tannins and ripe berry-red raspberry fruit, this Cabernet is more elegant than powerful, and lends itself to pairing with a thick, juicy steak. 2002 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) -- Enticing scents of lightly toasty oak, blackberry and black cherry fruit and a hint of mocha. Plush and velvety smooth with supple, medium-full tannins and tiers of berry-cassis fruit, dark chocolate and vanillin oak. Generous and elegantly extracted. 2002 La Jota Anniversary Release Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($90) -- Forward, unmistakable note of violet precedes ripe black fruit and mocha scents. Concentrated, deep, complex flavors of chocolate-covered cherry and blackberry liqueur, with a hint of white pepper and mineral. 2002 O'Shaughnessy Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) -- Exotic scents of cassis and blackberry accented by a red-meat note. Opens with air to reveal sweet vanilla oak and dark chocolate. Juicy and generous with polished tannins and harmonious flavors. Wickedly rich. 2001 Pina Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($54) -- Intriguing nose of red meat, black olive, smoke, red berry and cassis. Bold and full-bodied, with ripe, sinewy tannins, intense, highly extracted dark-berry flavors and a wonderful aftertaste. Several years of cellaring recommended. 2002 White Cottage Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) -- Aromas of red meat, nutmeg, licorice, cassis and black cherry. Round and silky with medium tannins, this is an elegant Cabernet that finishes with a spicy flourish tinged with minerality. -- Steve Pitcher Steve Pitcher is a San Francisco wine writer and a contributing editor for the Wine News magazine. E-mail him at wine(a)sfchronicle.com. Page F - 1 URL: http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2005/10/20/WIGDCF8QG21.DTL