[wine] Oregon Pinot (SFGC)

Several of our favorites scored well. US Liquor has an amazing selection of really good beer. I saw several new things..... What time is the Inoni thing on Sunday? Cheers, Jim Oregon Pinot Noir Friday, November 16, 2007 Oregon wine production has exploded from about 120 wineries in 1999 farming 7,500 acres of wine grapes across five appellations to more than 300 wineries in 2006 with 15,600 producing acres within 15 appellations, including several approved last year. With more than 50 percent of acreage planted to Pinot Noir, this is clearly Oregon's major grape, also evidenced by the 123 wines submitted for tasting. A cooler, more humid climate leads to a more restrained, elegant style of wine with the high acidity and generally low alcohol that's preferred by many Pinot Noir lovers. Most Oregon wineries are small with limited production, so some recommended wines may be available only through the winery. - Lynne Char Bennett Rating: THREE STARS 2004 Anne Amie Deux Vert Yamhill-Carlton District ($50) The meld of aromas and flavors - damp mushroom, candied cherry, ripe plum, sweet spice and woodsy mineral - proclaim "Oregon Pinot." This wine's balanced combination of leafy cool fruit and earth is lovely with a finish that goes on and on. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Arbor Brook Vineyards Estate 777 Block Yamhill Pinot Noir ($35) This wine's nose - intriguing to one panelist but slightly boring to another - shows eucalyptus, oregano, cocoa and sweet red cherry with hint of barnyard. Concentrated but delicate bright fruit flavors are wrapped in notes of lavish wood. There's a touch of heat on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Archery Summit Premier Cuvee Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($37) Dark, dusty boysenberry, cola and juniper with hints of pencil lead aromas announce a ripe, fruit-forward Pinot with plenty of extract and sweet oak shadings. Well executed and balanced. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Benton Lane Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($26) There's plenty of forest floor and herb aromas in this lean wine, which has soft, ripe but tart cherry, cranberry and dark plum on nose and palate. Warm spice hints emerge on the finish along with lingering fruit tannins. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Brandborg Northern Reach Umpqua Valley Pinot Noir ($25) Aromas of dark, warm blueberry and good bit of oak toast have a zesty lift and mineral overtones, which also rescue the slightly oaky palate. Masterfully done. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Broadley Shea Vineyards Old Vines Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Some high-toned floral perfume makes an appearance in this wine, adding to the intense mint, eucalyptus and dark fruit aromas. Minerality drives the rather salty palate that's gently dark and chewy. Focused fruit and mouthwatering red pie cherry acidity provide balancing brightness to the long finessed finish. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Chehalem Ridgecrest Vineyards Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir ($44) A bit of earthy barnyard, mineral, sweet licorice, blackberry, tamarind and soy combine with warm spice and slightly tannic but ripe fruit; this wine has balance and textural tannins. Rating: THREE AND A HALF STARS 2005 Cristom Jessie's Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir ($50) This wine has some tannins and density with durability enough for aging but acidity and dark red fruit balances. Warm aromas and flavors: matsutake mushroom, forest floor, dark earth and ripe berry compote form nuanced layers that end with a plum skin finish. An alcohol level of 13.5 percent lets this Pinot's elegance shine. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($30) A well-balanced wine, there's rich cherry, cool pine-forest, warm earth and spice which mingle with black cherry flavors. The tannins are a bit more grippy, but there is still nuance in the wine that speaks of pure Pinot Noir. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Domaine Drouhin Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($45) There's quite a bit of earthy funk here, but it's mixed in with high-toned floral notes and mineral structure. Ripe berry/ dusty cherry, strawberry, bright zest and lifted fruit. There's grip and velvety tannins. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Domaine Drouhin Laurene Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($65) Powerful and tightly knit, Domaine Drouhin's flagship Pinot continues to show a minerally backbone that's surrounded with exotic pine needle, dried bay leaf, wild strawberry, dried cherry and lemon zest. Plenty of oak and vanilla layer this elegant wine's cherry-ish palate. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($40) This wine is sleek and smooth with citrus, sweet oaky vanilla and spice. Dark fruit is tempered by red raspberry and cranberry highlights. There's more red than black fruit here and the tannic structure helps pull the pieces together. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Four Graces Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($25) A darker, fuller wine with an elegant nose that has forest floor with oak notes sprinkled among the ripe cocoa-dusted raspberry. Mouth filling and rich, the palate also offers roasted blackberry, black cherry. There are firm tannins and slightly increased alcohol but this wine handles it well. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Gypsy Dancer Gary & Christine's Vineyard Oregon Pinot Noir ($43) Gray mineral, pine needle, pencil lead aromas and bright, but dusty ripe cherry with wild strawberry highlights punctuate the underlying hints of earth and porcini. Tart blackberry and galvanizing acidity balance the ripe, weighty palate, which has firm but balanced tannins. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Stoller JV Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($25) Similar to its more expensive sibling, this Stoller has mint and dry forest floor, but shows an earthier side with earth, mushroom and spice plus black cherry cola. The wine's delicate fruit holds its own with grippy tannins and acidity. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Stoller Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($40) Sweet blackberry dominates; lovely aromatics blend with mint chocolate, dried branch and toast. This wine's darker character goes full bore with boysenberry jam and cassis, but its high-toned highlights even things out, leaving some balance and grace. Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Willamette Valley Vineyards Oregon Pinot Noir ($24) Willamette Valley Vineyards, one of Oregon's largest producers, has made a wine with juicy ruby fruit with ripe spiced orange, smoke, spice and touch of dusty earthiness on the nose. Lush dark fruit, cherry and sweet oak spice lift the palate, which finishes with bright acidity and subtle tannic grip. This is a balanced, great value Oregon Pinot. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good Today's panelists: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Samantha Brennan-Kapash, executive wine director; Pres a Vi. For additional recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/11/16/WIART9K0M.DTL This article appeared on page F - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *