[wine] Barolo (SFGC)

2006 Barolo: The Chronicle recommends Jon BonnéSunday, January 9, 2011 Left-right: 2006 Guido Porro Barolo, 2006 Mauro Veglio Ba... Left-right: 2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo, 2006 Vietti Barolo Left-right: 2006 Elio Grasso Barolo, 2006 Ettore Germano ... Has northern Italy's most regal wine retrenched from its love affair with modern winemaking? We were on the lookout for evidence as we tasted about two dozen 2006 Barolos. That vintage should now be on shelves after the region's mandatory three-year aging requirements, yet many wines remain unreleased, prompting us to wonder if there's a bit of a Barolo back stock. 2006 was a year for classicists. We found less oak and more classic flavors in the glass, though the wine's profound Nebbiolo signature - earthy, floral, full of transparent fruit and knotted tannin - wasn't as evident as in two recent benchmark vintages, 2004 and 2001. But there was plenty to enjoy, especially in basic bottlings under $50, which was heartening. Barolo has fallen prey of late to both price spikes and an obsession with single-parcel bottlings that signal how completely Barolo has been mainstreamed. If a return to tradition signals a wider range of bottles - for both short-term drinking and long aging - it's a welcome step toward the past. 2006 Mauro Veglio Barolo ($36): This historic La Morra property made a commitment to a more modern approach in 1992; that has tapered somewhat, though the presence of new wood is forward here. Still, it's hard to resist the great expressive nose in this basic bottling - dried mint, asphalt, rose, conifer and raspberry. Flavors are more subdued, but there's potential in a couple years as the oak is absorbed. (Importer: Wine Warehouse) 2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo ($42): This Barolo estate was re-established in 1996 by Giacomo's son Ferruccio, and this entry-level effort is wonderfully earthy, if slightly closed right now, with kirsch, dust and rose pollen, and bright strawberry fruit. Big and structural, but the tannins and the fruit are in great balance. A leathery, anise-spiked finish hints at a good decade of potential. (Importer: Banville & Jones) 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo ($85): The work continued by Bartolo's daughter Maria Teresa remains a pinnacle of Barolo, never more than in a stoic vintage. If Mascarello wines can be standoffish as kids, this is already evocative, with fresh roses, ginger root, a subtle tar presence, bouillon and bright orange-rind highlights, all stitched together with rich cherry and kirsch flavors. Delicious, timeless stuff, surprisingly ready, but with what one panelist called a "violin-string" tension and a ton of structure for aging. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections) 2006 Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo ($39): Porro, based in Serralunga d'Alba, hews to a notably traditional style; this is Barolo as a snapshot of a recent past, from a south-southeast facing site. An immediately pretty dusty and caramelized orange-peel character, with a savory beef-jerky presence amid leathery black cherry fruit. Buoyant and fresh. A Barolo without guilt - not for a long-term wait, but a great deal for the next six to eight years. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) 2006 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto Barolo ($42): The Monfalletto property was one of few in the commune of La Morra that left an impression this time. Aged in a mix of oak, it splits the difference between traditional and modern styles, with results that might spur debate. Properly tarry and tangy - toasted coriander and tangerine, green olive and sweet cherry. But it's surprisingly polished, making it approachable while not sacrificing its stoic guts. (Importer: Wine Warehouse) 2006 Ettore Germano Prapo Barolo ($70): 2006 Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo ($90): Grasso works the steep slopes of Monforte, and this muscular Barolo aged in large Slavonian barrels is a high-wire act - stylish, but with lots of tannic austerity. Aromas of spice box, balsam, clay, mandarin orange and cranberry, with a minty herbal kick. Grasso's gorgeous Ginestra Casa Mate ($90) is a touch more approachable right now. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) 2006 Vietti Rocche Barolo ($130): Luca Currado's effort from 45-year-old vines in his native Castiglione remains a Barolo benchmark, aged in Slovenian oak casks for 32 months. A rich cola-like and nutmeg presence, and a tamarind edge, bring depth to the fresh rose and woodsy accents. Deep, extracted and fancy, it's still got lots of classic stuffing - raspberry high tones, black cherry opulence and a vibrancy that remains through rich espresso tones. (Importer: Dalla Terra) Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Ceri Smith, owner, Biondivino; Wolfgang Weber, Chronicle contributor. Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com and @jbonne on Twitter. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/01/09/FDJ11H3SSU.DTL -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *