[wine] Cheese!

FYI from the Post On Board For Summer By Domenica Marchetti Special to The Washington Post Wednesday, June 10, 2009 For lots of cooks, warm-weather months are all about the glories of the grill. For others, summer broadens the kaleidoscope of vegetables and fruits. For me, this time of year means all of that -- with cheese. Most of us aren't used to thinking of cheese as a seasonal food, but summer is the time when certain cheeses are produced or are at their best. Dairy animals are feasting on lush, nutrient-rich grasses, and their diet is reflected in the flavor, freshness and richness of many kinds of cheese. For reasons not understood by this dairy queen, cheese seems to be an afterthought or subsidiary ingredient in summer cooking. It is my opinion, however, that now's the time a well-chosen cheese deserves its place of honor at the table. To be sure, it can be hard to choose. There are hundreds of varieties of cow's-, goat's- and sheep's-milk cheeses (not to mention buffalo's milk), fresh and aged, from dairy farms across the country and from all corners of the globe, readily available at well-stocked supermarkets, gourmet and specialty cheese shops and online. It makes for an intimidating and often expensive array. That's why I decided to share thoughts about my current summer favorites. And although some cheeses cost upward of $20 a pound, it's important to remember that a little goes a long way. I think of it as an affordable indulgence. To simplify matters, I like to divide the subject into two categories: true summer cheeses, and those that seem right for the season. For example, two fresh cow's-milk cheeses -- mozzarella and its even richer cousin, burrata -- are now at their peak in richness and tangy flavor. Summer is also the natural season for fresh goat's-milk and sheep's-milk cheeses, such as chevre, feta and ricotta. Goats and sheep stop producing milk in winter, when they are breeding and preparing to give birth. Although some cheese producers freeze the curds collected in summer (which is why we see goat cheese in stores year-round), the ideal time to enjoy these fresh cheeses is when they are made from fresh milk and curds. "It's like strawberries or tomatoes," says Sebastien Tavel, owner of a new cheese shop in Old Town Alexandria called La Fromagerie. "Yes, you can get them in December, but it's not the same thing." Then there are, to my mind, cheeses that just make sense. For example, I enjoy a rich, meaty wedge of Taleggio as much as the next cheese lover, but I find it too substantial for the heat of July and August. Instead I prefer the lighter, fresh cheeses: milder blues and supple semi-aged cheeses such as Gouda or Idiazabal, a lightly smoked beauty from Spain's Basque country. Of course, only some of this is a matter of logic; it is also a matter of preference. I am never without a hunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano in my refrigerator, and I love the salty sharpness of a good, aged pecorino Romano in summer because it goes so well with other robust flavors of the season: grilled peppers, briny olives and meaty heirloom tomatoes. The cheeses on my list of 13 are all available in the Washington area. I've grouped them according to how I use them: for grilling, for melting, for salad, for dessert and for eating fresh. Not surprisingly, there is overlap among the categories: fresh sheep's-milk ricotta, which is in the dessert group, would be perfectly at home on a summer cheese plate or drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper. Let your own palate be your guide. Try crowning a burger with something with a little more character than the typical mild cheddar, such as goat Gouda. (Even better if it's a lamb burger.) Instead of another peach pie for dessert, let grilled peach halves share a plate with a creamy wedge of fresh sheep's-milk ricotta drizzled with honey. Armed with a little knowledge and a sense of adventure, you can easily add to your repertoire of summer cheeses and ramp up your summer recipes. A word about storing cheeses in warm weather: All of them should be kept in the refrigerator. Fresh ones such as feta, mozzarella and ricotta are highly perishable. If possible, refrigerate them in a tightly sealed container in the brine or liquid that they came in and use them within a couple of days of purchase. Creamy or sticky cheeses, such as fresh goat cheese or creamy blues, should first be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap. Wrap semi-soft cheeses such as Gouda or cheddar in wax paper (some cheese shops sell sheets of wax-coated paper) to allow them to breathe. Aged cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano store better than fresher cheeses and may be wrapped in plastic or wax paper. Be sure to use a fresh sheet of wrapping paper each time you rewrap the cheese. Domenica Marchetti's latest cookbook is "Big Night In" (Chronicle Books, 2008). Her Web site is http://www.domenicacooks.com. Summer Cheeses Get to know these 13 cheeses, each with seasonal charms suited to warm weather. For Dessert For summer, the best dessert cheeses are those that are refreshing and light enough that they won't overwhelm fruit but rather enhance it. 1 Capra Honey Goat. This fresh Belgian goat cheese has just the right amount of honey mixed in, which makes for a lovely, tangy cheese with a distinctively sweet finish. It's a perfect partner for summer fruit, especially berries, peaches and nectarines. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique (2411 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 703-706-5300). 2 Cambozola. A triple-cream cross between Camembert and Gorgonzola, this soft-ripened cheese has a mild blue flavor and is great with a plate of fresh figs, halved and drizzled with a little honey. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market, Balducci's and Trader Joe's. 3 Fresh ricotta. There are two kinds of fresh ricotta: the soft, white, spoonable curd cheese made from cow's milk that most of us are familiar with; and sheep's-milk ricotta, which is firmer and smoother and usually bears the imprint of the small, round basket that it was pressed in. It can be sliced into wedges. Both kinds are perishable and should be used within a couple of days of purchase. Sheep's-milk ricotta is difficult to find but worth seeking out. It has a lovely, chalky-white color and a dense, tight curd, and it's sweeter and less tangy than cow's-milk ricotta. Both cheeses pair beautifully with ripe berries and stone fruits. For an easy summer spoon dessert, stir unsweetened cocoa powder and confectioners' sugar into either type of fresh ricotta. Sheep's-milk ricotta is available in the Washington area at Cowgirl Creamery (919 F St. NW, 202-393-6883) and Cheesetique. Cow's milk ricotta is available in the Washington area at Balducci's and Whole Foods Market. Cheeses for Salad Good salad cheeses can be fresh, tangy goat cheeses that are equally at home on vegetable and fruit salads, or sharp shredding or grating cheeses that can stand up to robust ingredients such as grilled peppers, olives and anchovies. 4 Idiazabal. This raw semi-aged sheep's-milk cheese from Spain's Basque region is lightly smoked and pocked with tiny holes throughout. It is faintly sweet, with a rich, nutty and buttery flavor. Longer-aged wheels have a sharper flavor and are good for grating. Cut Idiazabal into cubes and mix it into an antipasto salad of cubed salami, green olives, pickled peppers and marinated artichokes or mushrooms. Or use it as an alternative to Parmesan in a Caesar salad. Available in the Washington area at La Fromagerie (1222 King St., Alexandria, 703-879-2467) and Cheesetique. 5 Feta. Good-quality feta bears little resemblance to the odiferous stuff you find crumbled in containers at the supermarket or on top of Greek salads in many pizza parlors. Good imported Greek feta often is sold in blocks immersed in brine. It is salty, tangy and both creamy and crumbly. Caromont Farm, in Esmont, Va., makes a lovely straw-colored domestic feta that is less salty than traditional Greek feta, with a mild tang. Feta goes great on just about any salad that features classic summer ingredients such as tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions and mint. For something refreshing and a little daring, skewer a cube of feta, a cube of watermelon, a ripe cherry tomato and a mint leaf. Or crumble feta over a summer fruit salad of cantaloupe, honeydew melon and blueberries. Imported Greek feta is available in the Washington area at Mediterranean Bakery & Cafe (352 S. Pickett St., Alexandria, 703-751-0030), La Fromagerie, Whole Foods Market, Balducci's and Trader Joe's. 6 Ricotta salata. Not to be confused with fresh ricotta (see "Cheeses for Dessert"), this cheese is salted and pressed to give it a dense, crumbly texture that is somewhat drier than feta's. Crumble or cube it into a salad, or use a Microplane to shave it over grilled steak. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market and Balducci's. For Melting Different cheeses melt in different ways. Pulled-curd cheeses, such as mozzarella or Armenian string cheese, stretch to form long strings when melted. Semi-aged cheeses, such as cheddar, Gouda and Swiss, melt smoothly and thus are best suited to top a burger. 7 Dragon's Breath From Keswick Creamery in Pennsylvania comes this extra-spicy pepper jack-style cheese studded with jalapeno, habanero and Thai (bird) chili peppers. Dragon's Breath melts beautifully and is right at home atop a grilled beef burger. It is also the perfect fix for a bland turkey burger. Try shredding it onto a vegetarian pizza topped with roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique. 8 Goat Gouda. Produced in Holland, goat's-milk gouda is similar in texture to the traditional cow's-milk version but with a smooth milky-white paste and a mild goat cheese flavor. A lovely domestic alternative is Cypress Grove Midnight Moon, which is reminiscent of Parrano, a popular medium-aged cow's-milk Gouda. Aged for one year, Midnight Moon has a rich, buttery color and a complex flavor with hints of caramel. Both regular goat gouda and Midnight Moon are perfect for melting over a spiced lamb burger (see recipe), stuffing a quesadilla along with Greek olives and roasted peppers, or topping a grilled pizza. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique, Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe's. For Grilling It takes a pretty sturdy cheese to stand up to the direct heat of a grill without melting into a gooey mess. Undoubtedly, the best-known of the grilling cheeses is halloumi, the dense, salty, rectangular-shaped cheese flavored with mint. Here are two other contenders that do well on the grill without the threat of a meltdown: 9 Smoked scamorza. This smoky brown teardrop-shaped cheese has a firm texture and low moisture content, making it great for grilling. In flavor it is slightly piquant, somewhere between smoked mozzarella and mild provolone. Look for smaller whole scamorzas, about half a pound each. Split the cheese in half lengthwise and rub with olive oil. Grill cut side down over direct heat until a brown crust forms on the bottom, then turn and grill the rounded side. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped fresh herbs and grilled or roasted peppers on the side. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market and the Italian Store (3123 Lee Hwy., Arlington, 703-528-6266). 10 Queso blanco This Mexican-style mild-flavored pressed cheese has a firm, slightly elastic texture and is less salty than halloumi. Cut the rectangle crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick slices. Brush with olive oil and grill the slices until marks form on the bottom. Turn and grill the second side. Serve with a tomato salad or mixed grilled vegetables. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market and Latino markets. For Eating Fresh These cheeses should have enough character to stand on their own, yet not be so overwhelming that they slay a summer appetite. 11 Caromont Old Green Mountain Round This fresh goat cheese round, topped with herbes de Provence, comes from Caromont Farm in Esmont, Va. It's fluffy and creamy, with an assertive tanginess. Spread it on flatbread or thin slices of baguette and serve with mixed olives. Caromont cheesemaker Gail Hobbs-Page likes to serve the cheese with chilled roséine. Available in the Washington area at La Fromagerie. 12 Alta Langa La Tur Produced in Italy's Piedmont, La Tur (which means "the tower" in Italian) is a combination of cow's milk, goat's milk and sheep's milk. It has a soft, crimped, bloomy rind with a faint mushroom aroma. The cheese inside is creamy and light, almost as if it had been whipped. It needs no enhancement and is delicious simply spread on good bread. Available in the Washington area at Balducci's 13 Tomme Crayeuse. This semi-aged French cow's-milk cheese has a very bloomy rind and a slightly bitter finish, with a paste that is salty and creamy. The longer the cheese ages, the creamier its interior becomes. Its earthy flavor makes it a fine candidate for a late-summer cheese plate. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique. Part of On Board For Summer, Domenica Marchetti's feature about summer cheese. PHOTOS: James M. Thresher for The Washington Post; WEB EDITOR: Julia Beizer - washingtonpost.com Ricotta and Bittersweet Chocolate Tart The Washington Post, June 9, 2009 * . Course: Dessert * . Features: Make-Ahead Recipes Summary: The tart is beautiful in its simplicity; what could be more appealing than sweet, fresh ricotta paired with rich bittersweet chocolate? This recipe was adapted from a tart made at the Osteria Baralla, in Lucca, Italy. Although the tart itself is simple to make, finding fresh sheep's-milk ricotta can be a challenge. A good, fresh cow's milk ricotta may be substituted, but it must be drained first: Spoon 1 1/4 pounds of cow's-milk ricotta into a cheesecloth-lined strainer or colander set over a bowl. Refrigerate overnight. Discard the liquid in the bowl. Fresh sheep's-milk ricotta is carried at Cheesetique in Alexandria; call to determine availability. Fresh cow's-milk ricotta is carried by Balducci's and some Whole Foods Markets. MAKE AHEAD: The dough for the tart crust must be refrigerated for at least 1 hour. This recipe makes enough for 2 crusts; wrap the leftover dough and freeze for up to 3 months. The assembled tart must be refrigerated for 2 hours for the topping to set, then left at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Makes one 10-inch tart (12 servings) Ingredients: For the crust * . 2 1/2 cups flour, plus more for the work surface * . 1/2 cup sugar * . Finely grated zest of 1 small lemon or lime (scant tablespoon) * . 1 teaspoon baking powder * . 1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt * . 8 tablespoons (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces * . 2 large eggs For the filling * . 1 pound fresh sheep's-milk ricotta or thoroughly drained cow's-milk ricotta (see headnote) * . 4 tablespoons confectioners' sugar * . 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract * . 2 tablespoons heavy cream For the topping * . 8 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped * . 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder * . 1 cup heavy cream Directions: For the crust: Combine the flour, sugar, lemon or lime zest, baking powder, salt and butter in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mix is crumbly. Add the eggs and process just until the dough begins to come together. Lightly flour a work surface. Transfer the dough to the floured surface; knead the dough just until it is fairly smooth. Divide and pat into 2 disks. Wrap one of them in plastic wrap, then place in a resealable freezer plastic food storage bag, pushing as much air out of the bag as possible. Freeze for another use. Have ready a 10-inch round tart pan (or rectangular equivalent) with a removable bottom. Roll out the remaining disk of dough on the floured surface into a 12-inch round (about 1/8 inch thick). Carefully transfer it to the tart pan; gently press the dough into the bottom and up the sides; fold the overhanging dough into the rim to reinforce the dough on the sides. Use a rolling pin or your hands to even off the perimeter (top) of the dough in the pan. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the tart shell from the refrigerator; use a fork to prick the bottom of the shell all over. Bake the tart shell for 10 minutes, until the edges are just beginning to turn pale golden. Remove the tart shell from the oven and let it cool while you make the filling. Leave the oven on. For the filling: Place the ricotta in a large bowl. Add the confectioners' sugar, vanilla extract and cream; use a fork to gently incorporate those ingredients, breaking up the ricotta as you work. Spoon the filling into the partially baked tart shell; bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is set but not at all browned. Transfer the tart (still in the pan) to a wire rack; let cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, make the topping: Combine the chopped chocolate and cocoa powder in a medium heatproof bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat just until it bubbles at the edges; do not let it come to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly pour it over the chocolate mixture; stir as you work so the cream is incorporated and the mixture becomes a glossy, dark and smooth ganache. Carefully spread the topping on the cooled filling, starting in the middle and creating a thick layer that stops short of the crust (there should be the tiniest bit of white ricotta filling showing around the perimeter of the tart). Refrigerate for 2 hours, until well chilled. To serve, remove the rim of the tart pan and transfer the tart to a serving platter. Let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Recipe Source: Adapted by Alexandria cookbook author Domenica Marchetti. 353 calories, 26g fat, 15g saturated fat, 73mg cholesterol, 85mg sodium, 28g carbohydrates, 2g dietary fiber, 15g sugar, 8g protein. Tested by Bonnie S. Benwick for The Washington Post. E-mail the Food Section at food(a)washpost.com with recipe questions. © 2007 The Washington Post Company -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *